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Old Nov 08, 2006, 08:31 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
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What's New at the shop?

Well, no Blog entries for a LONG time....

In the que-

Jart parts on the bench presently-
S6062 stock Carbon V-bagged wings, but 2 pc, with 5/16" wingrod, AND-
A6522>>A6020 1/32" ply sheeted and glassed "shortie" wings, to interchange
with the stockers....
Bagged Carbon tail parts, Dutchy fuse
.



************************************************** **
Brother's SUSA/Valenta Cappeccino, I told him I'd build if he bought a real plane, not a 2 meter or 60"!
So, he did; D'oh! DONE!

Xica! Ken Stuhr Pitcheron MADNESS!

Flying!

Two sets of wings, one set needs glassing. Waiting on BIG digi servos. May make some new tail pieces.

Timmig/Carlski/Target "Secret Project". Hope to have examples at 2007 PSS Fest, we'll see.

**************************

New fuses that cry out for bagged wings:

SUSHI fuse-
Mmmm, California Rolls!

Avion fuse-
The only 60" that I ever saw with a cross tail... May have to chop this BEAUTIFULLY LAYED UP glass/carbon fuse, stretch 3" longer tailboom, and make a mold; it would be the ultimate 60" slope racer...looks like a mini Eagle.

New Zipper fuse-
Might have to bag me a PW-51 wing @ 54-56", and a bagged airfoiled vertical, to stop that wagging...

Maverick 3M F3F fuse-
Very nice and light fuse, maybe DS-19 wings would work?? Or the stocker RG-14's? Hmmm.

Super Dragonfly Fuse and tail.

70" Savage fuse.

MPX Lucky fuse.

F3? Eagle short kit-
Fuse needs wing and tail cores bagged up. Stock wing cores are SD-7003, should be fast.

Mibo S-1 Swift kit. Needs covering, and assy, should be 10-20 hours of building. 2.5M span.

PSS kits-

60" Super Tucano fuse and tail just needs a wing (Thanks, Tim!!)
2M U-2 fuse; tail parts bagged, wings waiting for prep and bagging.
CA Sloper- May build SOON!
K&A L-39
Leg 48" P-51
Rare Bare sloper, <DONE!> Cliff hanger models. Needs assy, wings glassed already.

REPAIRS!

K&A Mini-OneXL need some TLC after a Fermin mishap. Fermin laughs at 12oz planes!

My POOR FREDY! I miss it. It needs the tailboom repaired, this should happen soon! One of the fastest 60" planes you could get for F3F, IMHO.

*****************************

AND-

I still need to clean up and organise my shop, and build a work bench/dust curtain for the powertools- Bandsaw, belt and disc sander, drill press, mini chop saw.

Help motivate me, someone!

Target
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Last edited by target; Sep 02, 2007 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2006, 08:50 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
The Shortie Jart wings are being skinned with 1/32" ply tonight or tomorrow....

The wingrod tubes are in both sets now, and the 5/16 Ejector pins have arrived from
www.dixiepins.com
Good timing!

T
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Old Nov 12, 2006, 11:19 AM
Registered User
Sleedo's Avatar
USA, CT, Fairfield
Joined Jul 2004
2,600 Posts
Target, your joiner tubes look awfully far forward. Is that because you're using a really big LE, or because your planform has shifted the CG fwd? Care to share the % of cord you've used for the CG? I have a similar build on the bench and haven't done a twisty yet so I'm trying to learn all I can before I commit to cutting, plus I can't seem to find 11/32 tube and 5/16 rod in stock at a LHS.

Thanks,
EB
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Old Nov 12, 2006, 12:31 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
The cg should be the same, and roughly on the tube center. And you are right, a 1/2" LE goes on next...

Thanks for looking,
T
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Old Nov 12, 2006, 11:47 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
Sleedo-

The 11/32" brass tubing is K&S stock so most hardware or hobby stores should have it; if not try McMaster Carr, or Small parts dot com...
The 5/16" carbon rod will have to come from ACP or CST, ....BUT! if you don't mind the extra weight, a chevy big block pushrod is 5/16" and 9" long, and you should be able to find those!
Longer steel is available from dixiepins dot com.

Hope that helps. I'll post more pics later.

T
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Old Nov 13, 2006, 04:49 PM
Vitruvian JART
Reed's Avatar
San Francisco
Joined Mar 2003
5,023 Posts
Looking good, Target. I'm hoping to get a plug-in wing and stab version done this winter and these pics are helpful.

I like the disposable cardboard idea - I use laminated construction paper that my wife brings home from teaching kindergarten. Lay everything out and cut the size - the cardboard acts as a carrier as well!
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 03:25 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
Thanks, Reed. I'll keep posting here, or maybe at JartWorld...

The cardboard works really well, and the tip of the exacto stays pretty sharp, too. It works for me.

T
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Old Nov 25, 2006, 02:55 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
861 Posts
Target, thank you for posting your work. I'min the process of making my first wing (not bagged yet) and watching your pictures I wander how did you get that sharp TE, Sanding?

Again, thank you for your help.
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Old Nov 25, 2006, 06:31 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
Ricardo,
The process is relatively easy, and you don't HAVE to use the vacuum bag to get the same results. You would be amazed at how stiff the very thin trailing edge is in real life, too.

Basically, I used 1/32" ply for my skin, which is very stout already. Because this wing is only 6.5% thick, the skins are at a very shallow angle to each other. Becuase of that, the foam core stops about 3/4" or 19mm before the trailing edge of the completed wing.
This means that the sheeting itself must taper to close to nothing, starting from where the foam core ends, to the very edge.
So, I started with ONE of the skins tapered the last 3/4", down to just the last individual layer of the plywood. You can see that in one of the pics, I think. This went to the INSIDE, with the epoxy and glass.
Then I assembled as usual, with the glass fibers on a 45* angle to the TE, to give some torsional stiffness.
Then, I bagged the wings and skins while the epoxy cured. You could just use a LOT of weight, and get the same, or similar results.

After removal from the vacuum bag, I DID still sand some more to make the airfoil accurate, and the TE very sharp. It has about 1/64" thickness. Since there are two layers also in there (one between each skin and the core), it is really very strong.

If you would like to save some weight, you could use this same method with 1/32"-1/16" balsa, or 1/64" ply, and can use lighter glass.
The wings I built here are for good wind on the slope, and the weight is a good thing!

These wings will also soon be glassed outside the ply skins, with mylars and paint, like a normal composite wing, and the TE's will be even stronger! So watch this space.

Good lift,
Target
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Old Nov 27, 2006, 09:54 PM
Slopeaholic
Hutch's Avatar
Roseville, California, United States
Joined Mar 2001
3,098 Posts
The bagged wing layup on cardboard pointer is awesome! I just finished my Jart wings and the cardboard made it so much more painless than what I tried when I bagged the stab.

Thanks Target and Reed!

-hutch
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Old Nov 27, 2006, 11:14 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,550 Posts
Cool, Mike. Glad it helped.

T
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Old Nov 28, 2006, 05:55 AM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
861 Posts
Mr. T.

Hope that your plans consider to show us how to cut the ailerons, make the servo pockets, the servo wire channel, the fuse, etc. My hat's off after you, master.
Ricardo
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