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Old Apr 29, 2010, 10:46 AM
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You need the "power" output of 4s, rather than 3s: from what I've read, the stock motors, on 3s batts, just don't produced adequate thrust.

Now, if you want better motors for 3s use, I can make recommendations.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 12:03 PM
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There are 2 stock motors. The stock ones for 3s powered my ME 262 just fine until one of the motors sheared a shaft. (The older motors have a 2mm shaft)
I can't remember which was which, but one had blue shrink wrap on the motor wires near the endbell and the other had green shrink wrap. Both of the motors had blue endbells.





Quote:
Originally Posted by angelfood View Post
You need the "power" output of 4s, rather than 3s: from what I've read, the stock motors, on 3s batts, just don't produced adequate thrust.

Now, if you want better motors for 3s use, I can make recommendations.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Green does far better with 4s.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angelfood View Post
Now, if you want better motors for 3s use, I can make recommendations.
I would prefer to fly on 3S and would love some recommendations for new motors.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 01:57 PM
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http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=4196

2 years use and going strong: drop in replacement for the green thingies.
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 03:15 PM
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Thanks angelfood.

I have looked in to the GWS motors and I am confused by the color coding. Does the blue in "BL 2028-4 blue" refer to the end caps or the colored band around the wires? I keep seeing references to green and blue in the specs. The motors that came with my 262 have blue end caps and green bands.

I was rumagging around the 'why did I buy that again' pile and found a couple of GWS brushless EDF 64s with 'white' (non-anodized) end caps and green bands.

I have not quite an idea of how to read the specs on these. What are the kV for these motors and the recommended voltages? I have not been involved much in the hobby for a few years due to illness and while I was gone, GWS released brushless motors and I missed the announcements and experiments. I have my AXI's and E-Flites all figured out, but these 'GWS' motors are a bit of a mystery. When last I frequented this site, Hobby Lobby was the sponsor - I do not know what happened but I hope the parting was not acrimonious.

Last question for the next few minutes is how would I order extra fan adapters?

Thanks,

Marty
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Marty, inverse order:

1. Look for gwsprops.com or something like that-a great source for parts-caliberhobby.com or caliber.com is a GWS distributor/retail seller in California, but with much higher prices;
2. The green band means you have a greenie;
3. Go to the GWS site in Taiwan, and get the specs for whatever you want. http://www.gws.com.tw/
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Old May 07, 2010, 01:09 AM
More jets than a carburetor
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Just installed two of these:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...kv_for_55/64mm

in the recommended fans from hobby city. 23 amps each motor when in the nacell. Will get about 450-500 watts total.

Using a 3s 2200 20 C lipo so may not get all the watts, but at least 400. Not bad, I think it will fly because I know it flies (just barely) on 180 watts.
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Old May 21, 2010, 08:25 PM
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My experiences:My hand-me-down ME-262 has two of the 2028 brushless motors (green tubing) and black GWS impellers fed by two Castle Creations Thunderbird 36's on a 2200mah 3S 20C lipo pack. I use a Spektrum AR6000 receiver and an add-on Park BEC to prevent receiver brown-out. The model flies at scale-like speeds and will do nice big loops after a shallow dive. it does quick axial rolls, requires some down elevator at full throttle for level flight. I fly mostly at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, full throttle only for a loop.
Caution, don't fly too long (until low voltage cutoff), one motior will cut out before the other and the other will keep running at full thrust. You might regain control by chopping throttle immediately, dropping the nose to gain flying speed and level out for a dead- stick landing. A one-engine out emergency is not for newbie pilots, best to keep flight times down to about 5 minutes mostly at 1/2 -2/3 throttle depending on the actual condition of your lipo pack. A tired pack/one that gets hot, may have very limited duration before LVC.
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Old May 23, 2010, 11:38 AM
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Thanks again for all the tips. One more question:

How well does this thing hand launch with the stock motors?

I have bad shoulders but no easy access to a paved runway.
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Old May 23, 2010, 11:40 AM
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I wouldn't hand launch this thing. Bungee launch yes....


It needs a fair amount of airspeed to get flying well enough so that the nacelles don't cause it to rotate beyond control.
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Old May 23, 2010, 01:19 PM
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Finally had this running with two of the new turnigy EDF outrunners and fans. Lots of power, but some reason it was somehwat unstable in flight. After a loop, after the over the top part it started snapping. I applied full rudder and saved but I was too low. I punched and pulled too far back on the stick and it snapped again and went in. I am thinking I had too much elevator throw.

PICT0001.AVI (2 min 57 sec)
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Old May 23, 2010, 02:43 PM
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Bummer. Damage report? Photos?
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Old May 23, 2010, 03:04 PM
More jets than a carburetor
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About 5 big pieces, the third time its been in that shape. Totally repairable. The nacells are 2 oz glassed so they are still in perfect shape. Motors and fans are still perfect. So I'll have it in the air again after an hour of work.
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Old May 23, 2010, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martimer View Post
Thanks again for all the tips. One more question:

How well does this thing hand launch with the stock motors?

I have bad shoulders but no easy access to a paved runway.

The nacelles need some kind of reinforced tape on the bottom for belly landings. You need a buddy that can launch fast and level at full throttle. A little down elevator trim might be wise. Be ready to contol natural pitch up right after launch and prevent stall/crash. You do not want any tail -heaviness and don't want large control throws. Ailerons on mine are very effective. If at all posible, find a large field with smooth tkeoff and landing surface using wheels until you have it under control. Let it lift off gradually when ready. Keep turns wide and bank angles gentle with adequate speed to avoid stall/crash syndrome turning on final and landing., It takes a lot of room to come to a stop on landing. Try to keep nose wheel from hitting ground first, gear leg will bend and linkage may break.
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