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Old Feb 25, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Livermore, CA
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Also, if you find while reading the thread, you don't understand something, or need a better picture, let me know what and which post it is and I'll go back and edit it to clear it up. That way others will benifit as well. Butch
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Old Feb 26, 2007, 08:52 PM
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Twisted Sheets's Avatar
The Gorge - Oregon USofA
Joined Sep 2006
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Great Thread

Butch,

This is a great, great thread.

I really appreciate you thinking about people that might want a sloflying wing.

I think we need a new catagory....floaters.

Keep up the great work.

Out rigger/runner?
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Old Feb 26, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Joined Nov 2004
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boomer

Butch, thank you for the information. I will start cutting down the wing the way you described, in the next day or two. Will keep in touch. I need something for beginners that is durable, yet fun for all. Thanks again!

PS- do you think the cdrom motor straight out of a 48x cd drive is good for this job?
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Old Feb 26, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Sacramento, Ca.
Joined Jul 2003
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Butch,
Do you have any plans available for the Boomer? I'm just dying to build one out of some EPP I just got, but have a heck of a time scratch building without plans of some kind. I built an Aerocat (Bobcat) out of Depron and it came out great, but this looks way different...
Joe
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Old Feb 26, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Livermore, CA
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Twisted Sheets,
Thanks. I live in a windy area and most trainers don't do well in the wind. So since I teach a bit of Rc flying, I had to come up with something better for this windy and small area. You wouldn't believe the number of planes I've tried to teach beginners.

Eagle Wings,
I really don't have any experiance with that type of motor. You'll need to search the forum to see what it takes. I'll then help you get it mounted. But its best if you know what motor you'll use, before you glue the wing halves together.

Joe,
The Boomers I built here, use available kits or wing cores. Then you just add the booms and fuselage. If you want to cut your own wing out of EPP, you'll need to find a Flying Wing plan so you can have a airfoil and wing shape to start with.
Basicly, the prop, determines the boom spread, the booms are level with the cord line and parallel to each other. Then the elevator needs to be back past the rear part of the aileron. Then design a fuselage and there you go!! Simple! Right!
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Old Feb 27, 2007, 01:02 AM
From Earth to the Moon!
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Sacramento, Ca.
Joined Jul 2003
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I'm building the wing in the Bluecor Wing Build thread (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497083), so I thought I'd build two and turn one of them into a boomer. I can see the spread between them but the dimensions of each would be a complete mystery to me (as would the elevator size). I can come up with a fuse idea from the pics here but the booms are problematic for me if I just look by eye - let alone how to attach them.
Perhaps I should stick to the wing itself!
Joe
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Old Feb 27, 2007, 02:31 AM
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Livermore, CA
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Joe,
I can see your problem with the booms on the bluecore thread. Since the wings hollow, it would be difficult to put the booms in, without making a brace to glue it to.
It could be done, but you'd have to figure it out. All of our boomers so far, have been solid EPP wing cores. Butch
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Old Feb 27, 2007, 03:08 AM
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Seems like lots of people want a Boomer, but either don't have the time to gather up all the parts from different sources. Or time to figure one out. Or time to build it.
Or just to darn lazy!
So I'm going to put together a few short kits using the WildWing. The basic kit will inc;
Two wing halves, with booms installed, stock balsa ailerons, CA hinges, 2 lite-prebent pushrods w/connector and horns, elevator pushrod, sleve and horn, rx bay cover, Shaped fuselage and canopy, vertical stab paper pattern and horizontal stab and elevator dimensions. $45.00 plus shipping, about $6.00 to mainland US.
I also have new IPS motors, ESC's, props, and a few new matching lipos.
If your building a Lite-IPS version, I can supply the depron ailerons, and tail.
For faster versions, I'll have the C/F wing spar and strapping tape if needed and H/D pushrods and horns. Pm me if you want one. Thanks, Butch
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Old Feb 27, 2007, 05:32 PM
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Livermore, CA
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Looks like a couple members want RTF Boomers. They'll be built with good parts and test flown with a lipo batt. So I'm taking pre-payments, with a 2-3 week wait for the first who order.
Pm me if interested. Butch
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Old Feb 28, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Vivian, LA
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Butch:
I'll be getting a Wild Wing soon. I'm planning on using a BP-21 that I already have sitting around the house. along with a 3s 1000mAh LiPo. It seems like you have cut up a few Wild Wings lately. So I'm wondering, in your experience... do you think a BP-21 would have better performance if I cut a few inches out of the middle of the wing? Or should I plan on leaving it at 35"?
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Old Mar 01, 2007, 12:07 AM
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Livermore, CA
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I cut them down because I wanted more of about a 30" wing and the rx bay was huge. But the WW has a extended nose area that makes it easier to ballance, if you keep it as a Wing, because you can move the batt more forward. But if you do cut it down, like to 32 or 31"'s, it will be a bit faster on the BP-21.
I just cut one down to 25" for a Ultra-Lite WW Boomer.
When cutting one down, you also have to think about the servo pockets and the prop size. Butch
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Old Mar 01, 2007, 11:27 AM
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Vivian, LA
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Good point, I didn't think about the servo pockets. I don't mind cutting out new ones if I have to. But I would definitely like to get as much speed as I can out of that BP-21 that I already have. It seems this is a real good (cheap) motor for this wing. I've seen more people using the BP-21 on this wing than any other wings here in the forums. It's seems the only other model that uses the same motor would be the superfly. I may have to get both.
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Old Mar 04, 2007, 08:46 PM
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Livermore, CA
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The last few times I went out flying, was to trying to solve a, out of control glitch, I get on ch 46. Not wanting to crash my Wild-Cat Boomers so much, I took my original Slo-Cat Boomer, because its very lite and has been crashed lots of times and is on ch 46 as well.
The last few times I took it out, it was flying squirly, but I couldn't tell if it was glitching or not. So I took it out yesterday and man was it flying like crap! It wanted to climb all the time, wouldn't fly inverted and was real pitch sensitive!
It was like it was a totaly different plane. I looked at it but it all looked ok!! The batt is in a slot and can not move at all. The motor and linkages looked fine. I drove home kinda depressed. I got all this gliching problems and I've crashed my Axi powered Me 109, crashed my newest outrunner Boomer, crashed my SportyT, all on ch46 and Now my original Boomes is acting up as well, Bummer.
So after church, I got out my magnifying glasses and gave Boomer a look over.
Ha! I found it! The aileron servo had come un-glued and was moving back and forth.
So I glued it up and went out to the school and she flew great again! Now I'm happy.
But I still have to solve my glitching problem. Butch
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Livermore, CA
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Springs here and so are more chores, darn. So instead of messing with my ch46 glitching problem, I need to concentrate on the Boomers.
The outrunner version Wild-Cat Boomer is built identical to the IPS version, that flys great. But the outrunner version, with the glitching and windy days, was hard to figure out and get trimmed. I had the C/G in the same sopt as the IPS verson, but it acted like it was off and tail heavy. It was pitch sensitive and would climb too much. It seemed like a different plane than the IPS version. It also seemed to not have as good a glide as the IPS version. With a 3 cell 730, outrunner, and brushless ESC, it weighed almost a oz more, thats over 10% more.
So I've been tweeking it and found out a couple things that were wrong on the set-up.
First of all, its over twice the thrust as the IPS version that climbs almost vertical.
So the elevator throw was too much for the higher speed, making it twitchy in pitch.
But it was still climbing too much. I took out the motor and remeasured the booms and motor mount to the Cord Line of the wing. They must be all be level to each other.
Everything looked good, so I put it back together. Then I noticed the ailerons were just a tiny bit more up than the IPS version. They should be level with the cord line as well.
So I re-set the ailerons and elevator throw, then changed the Berg Rx and put in a ch34 crystal and went out to test it.
Wow, what a difference! Now it flys as good as the IPS version, except it has total vertical, to a dot in a few seconds. Now I'm happy. Butch
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Old Mar 14, 2007, 01:05 AM
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Livermore, CA
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Since I've got a few questions on glueing in the booms and motor mount, I took a pic of one of the Boomers I'm building now.
As you can see, the "Cord Line" is usually a invisable line that goes from the very front tip if the wing cord, to the very most aft part of the rear of the cord.
The Booms and motor shaft need to be in alinement with this line.

For most medium and fast Planes/Wings, this is mostly true. Some slowflyers add a down angle, because the undercambered wing flys with the nose up a bit more than the tail. I hope this clears up the questions, if not let me know. Butch
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