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Old Nov 21, 2006, 10:58 PM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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If you look close at the bottom of the wing, between the rx bay and the rear, you'll see 2 squares of velcro. Then I put a dowel in the nose of the wing, to center the fuse and pull it back to the velcro. You can see it in the fuse pic. But its still not solid, so I'm thinking about glueing a tiny hook inside the front of the rx bay and putting a dowel through the fuselage to hook a rubberband on.
Just glueing the fuse is fine, but then you have no access to the rx.
I thought about cutting the rx bay hole through the top and glue a piece in the bottom and hinging the top piece.
The Batt hole depends on what size batt you run. I'm using a 340 Kokam 3 cell and cutting a slot in the fuselage. But for now, I just taped it on the side to experiment with different C/Gs. The problem is it will fly ok at a C/G that is 1.5" back and forth? So I'm trying to find the best C/G before I cut the batt slot. Butch
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 11:15 PM
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New Hampshire-seacoast area
Joined Jun 2005
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AHHHHHHHHHHHH I get it now, very inventive! Thanks!
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Old Nov 23, 2006, 02:31 AM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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Heres a pic of the elevator push rod. I took a small plastic tube, like from a can of automotive brake cleaner spray, and cut off about 1". Then I put it on the push rod and put the push rod on the servo. Holding it in the aprox possision where it would be glued to the fin, I bent the rod about 3/4" up a bit on both sides of the tube. Then I bent the push rod and installed it into the elevator control horn.
With the Tx elevator trim netural, so that the servo is netural, I moved the 1" tube up and down a bit to get netural on the elevator and then glued the tube in that spot.
That way everything is light and simple. Butch
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Old Nov 24, 2006, 02:28 AM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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The Wild Wing is on sale again for $19.99 at Hobby People!! Butch
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Old Nov 25, 2006, 03:50 PM
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Livermore, CA
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The question was asked; whats the horizontal stab and elevator measurements.
Well the with depends on your boom spread, which depends on your prop, whicn depends on your power system and batt. But the hor/stab is 1 3/4" and the elevator is 1 7/8". The elevator will snap loop, so its plenty big enough for slow flight speeds. Butch
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Old Nov 26, 2006, 01:41 AM
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Livermore, CA
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I picked up some black EPP to make fuselages out of. A few guys are building the Wild-Cat and have asked for parts. So I can sell you the EPP and a paper template for the fuselage and canopy, or cut out the basic shape and or sand them to shape. And if your having trouble finding other parts or materials, I may be able to help. Butch
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Old Dec 02, 2006, 01:51 PM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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The IPS Wild-Cat Boomer flys fine, but now it's time to build a Outrunner version.
My Slo-Cat Boomer uses a CustomCDR cool single and will go vertical on a 2 cell, so I'll use the same set-up.
On this one, I decided to glue the fuselage to the wing. So I cut the rx bay hole all the way through to the top of the wing and then I'll glue a cover to the bottom.
The bottom already has a step in it at the rear of the hole, so I cut a step in front, right where the slots meet. The piece you cut out will fit nicely back in as a door, if you do a clean rasor cut. I used a fresh blade and cut through the bottom hole to the top, But if I do it again, I'll push a stright pin through to the top, to mark the corners of the cuts and use a stright edge on top and cut down to keep the cuts clean from the top. Next I'l cut some small pieces of depron to glue inside the rx hole, to keep the hatch from going in too far. Glue them in before you glue the bottom on. Butch
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Old Dec 02, 2006, 09:09 PM
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Tenino WA.
Joined May 2004
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Butch, what SMALL motor and power source would you recommend for SLOW flying in small park / small parking lot??

Jack
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Old Dec 02, 2006, 10:29 PM
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Livermore, CA
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Keeping it light is the trick. The IPS-A gearing, with a 8043 prop on a 3 cell 300-550mah lipo works great. Thats what mine uses. You can come in for a landing and be 1 ft off the ground, a couple feet before it touches down, then hit the power and it off again.
I'm using a 340mah and getting 20 minutes of flying without the batts even getting close to too-low.
Some of the guys who fly my other trainers on the IPS motor w/3 cell lipo, replaced the brushed motor after a while with a brushless and used the same batteries. The Wild Wing-Lite uses the same motor system. The motor & gearbox set up is only $14. and the GWS ESC 50 is $8-12. Butch
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Old Dec 02, 2006, 11:04 PM
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Livermore, CA
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I'm helping build several Wild-Cat Boomers. So if you want any parts, let me know.
Also I'm building a couple RTF versions and could build a couple more if any one wants one. Butch
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Old Dec 04, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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I got a chance to take the W-Cat out in the wind this afternoon. About 8mph and no problems with the IPS power system. It had plenty of power to spare. I had it hovering in one spot for a couple minutes.
But then it seemed to be loosing power! I brought it in and reved it up, the power was down alot. Then it dawned on me I might have grabed the wrong batt. So I poped a fresh one in and Tons of power!!
What I'd done was fly the battary from the last time I flew it, without recharging it!
So I got to make sure that I check my batts before I fly.
Something else that came to mind. I was having a disscusion with a flyer, who refused to beleive the W-Cat would fly slow enough to be a beginners plane. He was a Zaggi, flyer. But after he saw it fly, he shut his trap and now he wants one.

But if think about it, the W-Cat has a wing area of about 250si and weighs 6.5 ozs, flying. My Pico TigerMoth has a wing area of 288si and weighs between 8 and 9ozs, depending which batt I use. It also uses the same IPS motor. So no wonder it flys so good slow! Butch
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Old Dec 19, 2006, 02:32 PM
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Livermore, CA
Joined Sep 2004
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Well I got the Pocket-Cat Boomer maidened and strightened out. It came out to 2.45 ozs flying, with a LPS-B and 210mah 2 cell lipo.
I flew it the other day in 10mph winds, gusting. It actually did quite well. With the big control surfaces and tons of differential in the ailerons, I could even manage the strong gusts. I got about 10 minutes of good powered flight and the batt came in with 7.7-7.8v left on it. I crashed it a few times checking out the capibilities and stalls, but I just picked it up and tossed it again!!
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Old Dec 20, 2006, 03:20 PM
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Florence, AL
Joined Jun 2006
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The Wild Wing is on sale again for $19.35 at Hobby People!!
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Old Dec 24, 2006, 05:16 PM
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Livermore, CA
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After doing a lot of crash testing(stalls with in 5ft of the ground etc). I've found that the when the fuselage is just velcroed on, it flexes too much and often snaps. Sure its easy to fix, but a pain if your a beginner. So I'm cutting the rx bay hole through to the top and covering the bottom, then glueing the fuselage on.
Also, after the plane is ballanced and the batt slot is cut, you can cut a slot under the fuselage and insert a carbon fiber rod, about .070-.080, to keep it from snaping on hard impacts.
My Slo-Cat Boomer has crashed alot more and bounced, but the fuselage is shorter and it takes the exact crash, with a side load to snap it. But it usually snaps clean and just a bit of glue and its looks like new.
Also, I've found that 3-M makes a EPP glue, designed for EPP. its Scotch-Grip 4693-H plastic adhesive. It works like contact adhesive and bonds in minutes, but I usually let it dry overnight. Butch
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Old Dec 28, 2006, 10:07 PM
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In my Blu heaven! near Lincoln NE
Joined Mar 2003
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You have my interest.

Since you think cheap is good ( and I totally agree) have you thought about trying to convert this one?
it is found many places for around 2 dollars. I have seen them for 1.50 at Dollar General stores and Dollar Tree ( one of those "everything is a dolllar" stores) for, yes you guessed it one dollar!

Here is a thread on converting these to R/C:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=366537

But how about a Boomer conversion?

Robert
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