im a rookie at this so some of my questions ma seem ...well....rookie-ish

ill have a look at the excellent picts to find out waht kind of hardware to get this coming week

Probably to me, things seem simple because I've done so many planes.
So if you can't figure out something, just post it. Maybe someone else needs the info as well. Butch

Butch,

the stabiliser you sent had small carbon rods taped to them , are those to strenthen the stabs?
I have the med carbon rods glued in and the wing together
I couldnt really get the pins trick to work on my work table so I had to eyeball it, seems good so far.

Yea, I taped them in the aprox possision. I cut a slot and then open it up a bit and run some sandpaper through the slot for the rod to fit without distorting the stab.
The pins trick works well, but if the booms are off and the motor is mounted by alineing it to the booms, then you could have a down or up thrust issue. So that when you hit the gas, it could nose in or climb too steep! So be carefull. Butch

my wing seems to not be totally straight tip to tip, it isnt bad but it was real hard to find the cord line of the wing. I am understanding that the cord line is the plane of the wing that makes the AOA 0 degrees

I am hoping to get the motor lined up today....I see you cut a larger opening to slide the motor mount into the wing too. if the line up is wrong i am hoping it is very small

also I think I can use the clevises and c/f pushrods from the ucando3d wreck i have, which can make it still lite, they are all plastic...

excellent with the slot cut and sanded opening, thats what I did to get the c/f rods into the wing. cut a slot slid them in, lined them up and the epoxied them

by the way it is my first experieince with epoxy ever,....
so i mixed some for the wing glue..and im just happily apply the glue...get the wing altogether, so I look in the cup and its yellow....and rock hard. interesting what got me was it was HOT when i picked it up..
LOL like I said my first time with epoxy!

well i have to say I have the boomer done except for the servos etc...it is just under 7 oz with all the equip piled on it...so thats a total weight

Question...my servo to aeirleron is not straight. the mini connectros you use allow and angle (from the pics) the ones I have would require me to cut holes to allow the servos to be turnd to point to the clevis.

do the mini connectors allow this angle? since I believe I see it z bends and that allows it to be off center.

my angle is bigger then yours..ill post a pick. what is the solution for off angle pushrods?

Several planes use off-set pushrods. Here is a Multiplex Sky Scooter using one servo for the ailerons.
In general, the pushrod leaving the servo should be bent so there is no binding and then the horn on the aileron could be pointed at the servo if the linkage demands so.

But if its a "L" shaped bend on either end of the pushrod, then the "L" could be other than 90 degrees. Like a more open or sperad out "L" to match the sevro or horn.
If you look closely at this Boomer pushrod, you'll see the servo is stright in the wing, but the push rod is bent a bit wider than 90 degrees to point to the horn and where the pushrod bends into the horn, it also not 90 degrees, but a bit wider.

But it seens that your linkage demands that the servo is pointed toward the horn.
If so, then recarve the servo hole and also move it outboard a bit.

Other wise, its looking good. I'm putting a faster Boomer together now. I'll post some pics in a bit. Butch

Well I'm getting along with my WildWing faster Boomer build.
I went to the same 3.5" cut, but since I'm running a zaggi prop, I put the boom spread at 7".
The Walkera 180 is a 3200 kv motor and pulls about 15 amps on this prop. I'll run a CC Thunderbird 18 and try from 1500-2100mah 2 cell batts. On a 3 cell, I think it would be way too fast for a EPP wing.

Because of the speed, I put the carbon fiber spar in the wing. I made a connector out of thicker pushrod wire to connect the 2 C/F spar tubes. I used 15 minute epoxy to glue in the "V" connector and to glue in the spar in.

I used the WW elevons to make the ailerons. I sanded them thinner and tapered them like a aileron, then filled in the WW notch they cut in it.
I also built the tail out of balsa. I increased the vertical tail size and reduced the aileron and elevator size because of the speed. Then covered all of them with zaggi tape and ironed the edges.

I used GWS Naro servos for the ailerons and a Pico for the elevator. I'll use .047 pushrod wire instead of the .039 I use on the parkflyers, it should be enough.

I have no idea where the parts will have to go to get the C/G right and may have to make a different fuselage to hold the batt good enough, but we'll see. Butch

Butch,

I have the servos and pushrodsall set. Now I have a dilemna that may confront others.
witht wing cut down the bay is small to hold everything, i saw where you cut all the way thru and will glue the Fuse bottom on, If I do the same, but make it bigger so all my stuff will fit will it compromise the strength of the wing?
the leads from my servo are also a bit short and currently i would have to use my 6 inch extensions, more wire and more weight, wich I dont want.

Also did you put your battery inside the fuse? I have so little room there is no way i could move the battery aorund for the CG.

thanks
john

Well if you need a bigger rx bay hole, cut the size you need, glue a cover plate to the bottom to cover the hole, then trim the top piece to make a hatch out of it.
Look on post #94 and 173.
Then the batt gets put into a slot in the fuselage, that you need to figure out where and cut it out. Look on posts 54 and 100. You can see the side of the batt visible.
What you do is build everything and then mark the C/G. Tape the batt on the fuselage to find where it ballances. Then mark the spot very carefully and cut a slot to slide it into. Cut it undersized, and then square up the hole as you make the batt fit snug. Then recheck the C/G and adjust the batt.
If you want I'll post some more detailed pics of the current build. Butch

I think thats the way I'll go, then I will try to find the CG

thats a tough one for newbies, I placed everything on the ucando3d to get the c/g where it was supposed to be and it was way squirrly....but that could have been user error


Also I am using a 6 ch tx and rx, so I am not using y cable for the airlerons


I see the battery slid into the fuse now...I missed that before
If the CG is right then it should glide when thrown right?, not stall and go backwards...hehe

Look what arrived today!

Great looking plane Butch! Very solid feeling and super clean details

Just got my DX6 all binded in and expo at 50%, Ailerons and elevator nice and flat right out of the box. Maiden flight tomorrow. Servos nice and crisp and zero play in any connections, nice.

Thanks Butch

Mine is complete, I am struggling with the c/g looking at the pic above I see my battery is about there but a little more foward.
I am balancing the plane at 4 1/8th from the trailing edge

I took 2 equal triangles of wood screwed together to a square peice so the points are sticking up, I can place the plane on those to balance.
But it never will balance, it can come close, but is that enough?

How do you guys blanace these. BTW I am at 7oz total weight

Hey John,
I had light built IPS Boomers glide 40ft+ with a good toss.
If you want to do a power off glide, just power up the servos and not the motor.
That way you can steer it. Just throw it a couple degrees up from level and it helps if you have someone else toss it till you get it trimed and used to it.

Hey Scott.
Glad it got there ok. The ailerons could use the 50% expo on your first couple flights in calm weather. But the elevator is adjusted one hole to the mild side, so 50% may be too mild, not sure, just a guess. After you get used to it on full travel, you can set the elevator up for more travel.
I fly all mine at full travel, ailerons about 35%+ and elevator 40%+ and have no bad habits at all.
Let us know how the maiden goes.

I'm trying to get this faster WW Boomer ready, but its taking some time to rig the Boomer with a whole different power set-up.
The supriseing thing is that its the basic same size and shape as the IPS Boomer, but instead of about 7ozs, its over 11ozs so far! So I believe it will be coming in a bit faster! Butch

Hey John,
When I took the WW Boomer out to figure the best C/G, I could move the C/G 1/2" either way and it still flew well.
What I did was to move it to the extream both ways and then put it in the middle, just a tad nose heavy.
Then I checked and the elevator was still level and it flew inverted with very little input. So thats where I set it at 4 1/8" from the trailing edge.
What size battery are you using?? Butch