How much for the fusealge?
It doesn't look like my LHS has depron either..

I will send a PM,

and , duh, I didnt put 2+2 together on the stryker..sheesh...

Thanks,
John

I've got some depron, 2mm, 3mm and 6mm, 3mm is a bit thin and 6mm to thick, so some times I glue two 2mm together to get some 4mm for the horizontal stab.
I also have some 9mm EPP I use for the tails if your building a parkflyer, not a fast Boomer. For the faster Boomers, with a experianced pilot, balsa is best. Butch

I am almost finished mine. I decided to put my Purple Peril motor on it! It has awesome P to W, So it should be able to go about 2 MPH to 50Mph that would be enough for me! If I can get it to do that I will be truly happy, with it!
I am sure I will!
Thanks, Butch
Elvan!

Great!
Be carefull on the maiden, when I first launched my outrunner version, the trim and aileron setting was a bit off and it was off like a bullet, stright up!
Took a bit of trimming to settle it down.
If its built light, it will probably fly at 20% or so power, like mine.
Let us know how it goes, Butch

I am all about slow flying right now.

I managed to plant my ucando3d arf into the ground and broke it, fixable but I am going to pull servos etc, for this project and fix it later.

John

The one nice thing about a EPP Boomer is it dosen't get distroyed in a bad crash.
It usually just snaps the nose and you can just tape it back on and keep flying, then glue it right, when you get back home. Butch

The wildwing is here :-)
once we get hardwood floors done, I'll start the process..

I just finished up some RTF Boomers and decided to change the rx bay upper hatch/cover just a bit to make it less work to get a good fit.

To mark the hole on the top of the wing, I take a long sewing needle and push it through at each corner of the exposed rx bay on the bottom of the wing.
That gives me 6 tiny holes on top to cut out the hatch/cover.
On the front and rear, (left to right cuts), I went outboard from the rx bay, almost 1/8" to make my cut.
Then I cut it 5/8" deep in the front and a bit over 3/8" in the rear, because that's about how thick the hatch/cover is there.
This makes those cuts miss the rx bay.
Then I go into the underside and make a carefull cut left to right on the front and rear cuts I just made, pointing my knife forward and then backward, cutting in about 1/8".

What this does is make a step, front and rear, so you dont have to glue in 4 little blocks to keep the hatch/cover from going in too deep when put in its place.
It a bit hard to explain, but I hope the pic helps. Butch

Just finishing up the last batch of Boomers. My Wife said it looked like a assembly line.
Luckly she's been back in collage lately and hadn't noticed the mess so much.

After I get these test flown and shipped, I'm going to put together a faster version, using a Walkera 3200kv direct drive. A 2 cell lipo should be enough, as the WildWing is not really made for real fast flying. Butch

I thought I'd post a picture of my boomer, the Baby Boomer, converted from the R/N Models free flight kit. It has a 33" WS and was originally designed for a .020 glow motor. Mine has an IPS S2 gearing with 7060 prop and 2 6gm servos. The kit is simple and conversion was easy.

It's a blast to fly, very agile and nimble. The power is good with the IPS and it loops nicely and even rolls and flys inverted.

Phil

Hi Phil,
It looks kinda like my Pico Stick Boomer. Whats your flying weight?
Is the prop mounted on a extended shaft??
How many cell lipo are you using?
I've had a lot of luck using a 3 cell lipo on a IPS-A, with a 8043 and 8060 prop.
Butch

butch, looks like a great group of wings!

Thanks Butch! They look great, can't wait to get mine!!!

DAMN! I shoulda just shelled out the 45 for one.. ;-)

anyways.
Butch...call me stupid..but I am about to buy an IPS motor that has a gearbox...I dont see any gearbox's on those.
the IPS motors I found that are gearbox free, have a toothed gear.

unless I am looking wrong at them. so do they have a gearbox?

Butch,

As I recall the flying weight was 6 oz. with the 2-cell 640mah lipoly. The IPS has a standard shaft; not extended. The spur gear is flush with the back of the fuse pod. All this talk about it makes me want to do some repairs and get it flyable again!

I've heard about people using 3-cells with IPS motors but I have never tried it. What I heard was, with the A gearing, use a 7060 or 8043 prop. This keeps the amp draw close to the 2 amp max and results in much higher rpms and better efficiency. Actually I am planning on using this combo on my current project, a 24" SE5A built from the Peter Rake plans. I will probably be starting a build thread on that over in the Electric Scale forum.

NoThreat, sorry to jump in here, but "IPS" generally refers to the motor/gearbox combo. I did a quick google and found this, for reference. FYI the "A" gearing is 5.86:1.

Also, NoThreat, I like your avatar! I have seriously considered building a strato-streak as a parkflyer at 2x size with a flat-bottom airfoil...

Phil