Thanks Butch for thr reminder, of the beefing. With the beefing of a 400XT it will be about 2 oz heavy.

Thanks,
Elvan

Butch,

Forgive my newbie naivite, the IPS version I assume is a brshed version, but I have searched for IPS type motor and was left frustrated.
I know outrunners etc, brushless and such.

Exactly what motor and ESC are on the IPS version?

John

Hay John,
The IPS is a GWS IPS-A, brushed motor, about $14.00 and with the GWS ESC 100 works good. Also after the IPS motor burns out, you can put in a 12mm brushless and then change the ESC to a brushless for a bit more power.
But now a days the 24gram outrunner and ESC are almost the same cost and weight, but require a bit bigger batt. They can do on a 2 cell lipo what the IPS needs a 3 cell to do. Then after you get better you can upgrade to a 3 cell and have about 40% more power.

The main advantage of the IPS is for a cheap, easy to replace light power system for going as slow as possible, especially good for beginners. Butch

Building my own boomer from a H-L "Flying Eagle" styro-glider. It's just scotch-taped together for now, trying to eyeball the proportions. It'll still be quite a floater with the long wingspan, maybe I'll put a camera in it and have an honest-to-goodnes reconaissance airplane

That Boomer looks like it will glide well.
With a stright wing, you'll have to be careful when you setup the rc gear or it will be real tail heavy and you'll have to put a lot of weight on the nose to ballance it.
I had the same problem on my Pico Stick Boomer on page 2 of this thread.
I ended up putting the motor forward and using a carbon fiber driveshaft for the prop.
Butch

Thanks Butch, your the man..


I found the motor on tower hobbies for $9.99
Now looking at a gearbox got me completely confused..the motor has a 14 tooth gear, what ratio gearbox are you using?

So I am looking at getting a motor, ESC and a smaller Lipo.

I ordered the wildwing.

Also you said you used left over depron for the rudder fins, I saw on tower hobbies that they ahve on sale for like, 3 bucks, FA/18 Fins from a kit.

would clearence parts like that that "look" right work?

John

No Threat
You can buy a Brushless Motor, ESC, and prop from UnitedHobbies.com for $15, and Lipos and Servos are dirt-cheap too.

Butch777
I know reducing the sweep will move the CG forward, but I'll have a 1200Mah Lipo behind the cockpit with plenty of adjustment room to balance things out.

Originally Posted by NoThreat

Thanks Butch, your the man..


I found the motor on tower hobbies for $9.99
Now looking at a gearbox got me completely confused..the motor has a 14 tooth gear, what ratio gearbox are you using?
...

The "A" in "IPS-A" tells you the gearbox and gear in the motor to use.
BPHobbies normally sells that motor/gearbox combo for ~$15.
They seem to be out of the combo at the moment,
but you may still be able to buy all of the parts from them if you want.
Information (including parts diagram) on this at

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V504635

Ok, to be more exact, the IPS motor we use is the IPS-A.
IPS is short for "Indoor Power System", meaning motor, gearbox and gears, as a unit.
Its cheaper to buy the IPS unit rather than all the parts.
The IPS-A does use a 14 tooth pinion.
You can also buy a metal gearbox, that comes with the shaft and gears, from BalsaProducts. Then order a motor for it.

A popular upgrade is to replace the IPS motor with a 12mm brushless inrunner motor.

Here is BalsaProducts IPS page.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=V504635

John, using other kits depron depends on the size of the parts. For example, the Slow stick tail can make the ailerons and elevator, but not enough for the vertical tails.
The yellow depron on some of my Boomers came from a GWS 3D Tigermoth wing.

The main problem with depron is that it usually is sold in sheets that are 2mm, 3mm, 6mm, and up, but the size GWS and other companys use is about 4mm or 5mm which seems about right. Not too thin or thick for a 30" wingspan Boomer/Parkflyer.

Thanks everyone, I know handling questions from newbies can be repetative but for those of us still figuring out this maze, we do appreciate it.

Those sites are saved and orders are coming, I may just jump to the brushless, I can tell the inrunner looks like it fits and is lighter...

thanks again
John

So - I have a quick Q: on a pusher propeller, do you need to adjust the thrust a couple of degrees the opposite of a tractor propeller? - Up and to the left?

So far with the IPS and outrunner version Boomer and the Stryker Boomer, the motor is just lined up on the wing cord line. Meaning, just stright/stright, not down or side thrust.
If the motor shaft was mounted higher or lower than the cord line by much, then it may become a issue. Butch

Crash Report!
The nice thing about the EPP Boomers, is they don't get real damaged in a nose in. The main damage is usually the fuselage snaps off and is easy to glue back on.
The Stryker-Cat Boomer does fly well, but its not real EPP. Its a mixture of EPP and styrofoam, which makes it stiffer, but damage easier.
I recently changed the GWS motor on my Stryker-Cat to a 24gram outrunner. I took it out flying with the boys, in 20mph winds and all were amazed at how it handled the wind. I took it out the next day to a local school and I got hit by a really bad glitch that I lost total control and it nosed in under power.
The day before I'd lost orientation of my outrunner Wild-Cat Boomer in 20mph, gusty winds and nosed it in.

So I thought I'd show you the difference.
You can see the Wild-Cat Boomer, snaped clean off and is just glued back on.
But the Stryker-Cat Boomer's damage is more complicated.
First, the nose snapped off, but the front of the airframe got smooshed upward.
I tried a hairdryer and let it set out in the sun a couple days, but it was still bent up alot.
So what I did was to dip the parts into boiling water a couple times, putting preasure by hand to get it back into shape. The boiling water makes the foam beads soften, but swell also. So when I went to put the pieces back together they wouldn't fit up tight. What I did was to take a demrel tool, with a diamond burr and sand down the beads a bit that were swelled. It worked so-so. It was a lot more work than EPP, but it will fly again.
Heres some before and after pics. Butch

Butch,

I was looking at the LHS site for parts, and found that they sell the bare wing for a parkzone f27 stryker, for 20 bucks.

I looks like the wing a nose of the boomer, any experience with this wing?
My wildwings are on a truck from california to NY, too bad they arent in the gumball rally..

anyways, I know the WW comes with parts also, I'm thinking for a next project.
Or is this wing to fast..
This one hit me because I may not be real good at forming the fuselage out of bare EPP..

Look at the Stryker-Cat on post 116 and 117. Thats what I used to build it with.
It is a bit faster, but does slow down nice as well if built light.
The foam is a EPP mixture and you can see how it crashes here on post 163.

I sell the EPP for the WW fuselage, bare chunk, cut to ruff shape and finish sanded.