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Old Oct 10, 2006, 12:02 AM
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Quick question concerning Stryker Throws.

Alright, let me first start by saying that the instruction manual for the F27-Stryker C is incomplete, and written for someone who has a lot of experience setting their planes up.

I would like to shorten the throws of my Stryker, with the hope of making it a little easier to fly at high speeds. The setup for the stock elevons hook the clevis to a control horn that has four slots. The stock setup utilizes the second hole from the top. This suggests that the top slot would make the throws shorter, to me anyway.

Also, it looks like changing the throws in this way moves the position of the elevons, and would add or subtract lift. The control horns are slanted, and the slots get farther away at the bottom. Is my plane going to fly as straight if I mess with it?

Lastly, will changing the fuse mess up the trim since the servos will need to be switched? What were the effects of changing airframes on your Stryker? Is it as easy to have a perfect trim setting like it was brand new?

Honestly, I'm having a hard time getting answers for these last 2. The answers given have been conflicting, which leads me to believe different rebuild styles achieve different results. Information from someone who owns a Stryker (C model specifically) would be great, but at this point I'll take any help I can get. So far I've used RTF & ARF kits. The gear was always new. I'm pretty much becoming the entire factory assembly line here.

If you enjoyed helping me with these questions about the simple mechanics of the Stryker, and the results I can expect from my rebuild, then I could use a few suggestions about how to fit my gear in a space that isn't big enough.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=215

Thanks for the help. You guys are often a last resort to oddball questions.
Adam
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Old Oct 10, 2006, 03:30 AM
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Joined Sep 2006
608 Posts
The stock F27C Stryker radio supports dual rates. Flip the switch on the right of the transmitter. Or get a decent radio system like the Spektrum DX6 and set up exponential.

Or I could actually answer your questions...

Quote:
I would like to shorten the throws of my Stryker, with the hope of making it a little easier to fly at high speeds. The setup for the stock elevons hook the clevis to a control horn that has four slots. The stock setup utilizes the second hole from the top. This suggests that the top slot would make the throws shorter, to me anyway.

Also, it looks like changing the throws in this way moves the position of the elevons, and would add or subtract lift. The control horns are slanted, and the slots get farther away at the bottom. Is my plane going to fly as straight if I mess with it?
Stick it in the top hole. It'll reduce control throw. Also, you can put the pushrods closer to the bottom holes in the servos. That'll also reduce control throw.

Yes, it does move the elevons and that will affect the flight. It probably won't fly as straight... they seem to be trimmed perfectly stock (at least mine did), so you'll have to trim it yourself using the clevises if it's really off. Turn them left or right - they move up and down. You probably know this. Then you can make smaller adjustments with your transmitter once you've got it flying so you aren't constantly fighting it's urge to roll at 720 degrees per second or whatever, although I doubt whatever you're going to do it will mess it up to that extent. I installed new servos and a new RX and it really wasn't that bad, it slowly rolled left but I had it trimmed perfectly after about 5 minutes by adjusting the clevises and the trim tabs.

Quote:
Lastly, will changing the fuse mess up the trim since the servos will need to be switched? What were the effects of changing airframes on your Stryker? Is it as easy to have a perfect trim setting like it was brand new?
I haven't changed airframes but as I said I did install new servos and a new RX. It's pretty easy to get it flying straight again.
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Last edited by The L; Oct 10, 2006 at 03:36 AM.
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