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Old Jul 26, 2010, 11:12 PM
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Joined May 2009
31 Posts
thanks for the guidance and ideas. The blades are assembled with Por and it looked like a nice cone when it flew.

I think I have found one cause. The motor mount plate had slighly detached which would give side thrust in the direction shown in the movie. I don't know when this happened, but if it was after the first flght it would explain the pull to left.

Othe than that, it's down to pilot ability!

I will report back after some more tests.

Steve
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 11:16 PM
Registered User
Bedford Indiana
Joined May 2004
242 Posts
Stubby wing

I just wanted to say I was never able to get my monotwirl to fly as designed with the four blade rotor. It hung on the wall of my garage for a long, long time. Recently, I pulled it down and created a stubby wing under the pylon. I did not have any luck with the standard four blade rotor similar to that on the original Twirl. I made a two blade rotor with a KF airfoil and gave that a try and for the first time, the Monotwirl flew. Now I am wondering...is it actually flying with the two blade rotor or is it flying on the stubby wing? I am tempted to remove the rotor to find out. My two blade Twirls will fly without rotors, so I know they are flying on the wing. Just thought I would mention this. In my case, the wing made the Monotwirl a excellent flying machine (whatever the reason).

Chuck
...somewhere in Indiana...
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 11:37 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
2 Posts
Hello everybody
I'm building a "full-body" monotwirl, and I've read this thread. I see that the amount of blade flex is critical.The problem is, there is no where I can get 3x3mm spruce spars. Do you guys have any proposal of what I can use instead? I've got a sheet of 3mm balsa, and i also have a couple of meters of flat 3x0.8mm carbon lists. What do you guys think? How can i achieve the same amount of flex?

Best regards
Kristoffer
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 10:46 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
After having a lot of enjoyment flying the Twirl I am planning on building the Mono Twirl next.I also like leadfeathers Mr Twister using tailerons and rudder with a fixed rotor.I am seriously thinking of doing the same on the Mono with fixed rotor and tailerons.
The Mono will be a full fuse like my twin rotor Twirl and scaled up to 125%.

John
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 12:09 PM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,495 Posts
John,

that sounds like a superb idea! Thinking you'll have to box that fuselage though.

Ken
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 12:49 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
John,

that sounds like a superb idea! Thinking you'll have to box that fuselage though.

Ken
Thanks Ken,if you think it is worth trying I will give it a go.
I built a narrow full fuse on my twin rotor Twirl which works really well so I will do the same on the Mono.

Here is a picture of the Twirl full fuse.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 06:38 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Made a start on the Mono

John
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 06:52 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,495 Posts
I like your narrow boxed fuselage. I love my Twirl, but would like to do something akin to what you have. What material and thickness did you use?

Ken
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:32 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
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Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
I like your narrow boxed fuselage. I love my Twirl, but would like to do something akin to what you have. What material and thickness did you use?

Ken
Hi Ken,on the twin rotor Twirl I used 6mm depron for everything.On the Mono Twirl I have used 3mm for the fuselage sides and 6mm for the tail and formers.You will notice that I have put a couple of fillets in front of the rear wing as the back end was a bit flexy.
At the moment I am trying out different ways of mounting the rotor.I think this set-up with the two bearing holders at each end will be best.

John
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:44 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kristjem View Post
Hello everybody
I'm building a "full-body" monotwirl, and I've read this thread. I see that the amount of blade flex is critical.The problem is, there is no where I can get 3x3mm spruce spars. Do you guys have any proposal of what I can use instead? I've got a sheet of 3mm balsa, and i also have a couple of meters of flat 3x0.8mm carbon lists. What do you guys think? How can i achieve the same amount of flex?

Best regards
Kristoffer
I made the rotor blades for my Twirl from 3mm balsa without any problems so using it as a spar may work ok if the balsa is hard enough.You can always use some 2mm carbon rod instead of the 3x3 spruce.

I just use what I have and see if it works.

All the best.

John
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Old Jul 14, 2011, 11:06 AM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Is it right to set the c/g by hanging it from the rotor spindle with it slightly nose down.

John
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Old Jul 14, 2011, 12:31 PM
Keep it simple
alfoot's Avatar
Salisbury,England
Joined Jan 2005
974 Posts
Hi John,

Very nice job on the boxed fuselages of both your autogyros.

To answer your question, the tailplane area is very generous and so the Monotwirl does not need to hang down much, as described in the Word document some posts back - if you didn't already download it, you may find some of the flying notes of use. Mine actually hangs from the rotor spindle with the tailplane level.

Hope this helps,

Al
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Old Jul 14, 2011, 12:54 PM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfoot View Post
Hi John,

Very nice job on the boxed fuselages of both your autogyros.

To answer your question, the tailplane area is very generous and so the Monotwirl does not need to hang down much, as described in the Word document some posts back - if you didn't already download it, you may find some of the flying notes of use. Mine actually hangs from the rotor spindle with the tailplane level.

Hope this helps,

Al
Hi Al ,great to know you are still keeping an eye on things.Thanks for the c/g info,it does help.I am flying the Twirl with the rotors made from 3mm med/hard balsa which doesn't really have a lot of flex in them but it still flys great.
Really enjoying my Twirls.

Thanks Al


John
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Old Jul 15, 2011, 01:19 PM
jclassic1
New Houghton, Derbyshire, UK
Joined May 2006
1,383 Posts
Almost ready for testing.If it is OK I will run the snakes inside the fuselage.I still have the l/h snake to fit in place of the carbon rod.
Total weight is just under 11ozs similar to the twin rotor Twirl.
Going to try it with just the tailerons to start with and connect the rudder if it is needed.
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Old Jul 15, 2011, 02:41 PM
Keep it simple
alfoot's Avatar
Salisbury,England
Joined Jan 2005
974 Posts
Hi John,

Can I suggest that you add the rudder at the beginning - I found that it needed a combination of the rotor tilt and the rudder (a bit like a high aspect ratio glider) to turn correctly.

Also, as I wrote in the instructions, rotor speed is everything on a single rotor autogyro, unlike the original Twirl with the stub wing, so it would be worthwhile getting the feel of the rotor revs and the rotor tilt by holding it against any wind.

I look forward to hearing how it goes, good luck

Al
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