Simple "free" dual motor solution for Blade CP

tribologist · Sep 22, 2006, 10:36 PM

This is a solution for dual tail motors for the Blade CP that I got inspired to by the way motors are soldered to the chassi in allmost all 1:24 slot cars. It worked out great and is a much lighter solution than the milled aluminum mounts that you can find on the web.

Good luck, let us know if it works out for you or if you have suggestions for improvements.

Ulf

pico flyer · Sep 23, 2006, 11:30 AM

great piece of work, love the pics.
thank you!

Soarmax · Sep 23, 2006, 06:50 PM

What a Great Idea!!

McDanger · Sep 28, 2006, 02:43 AM

Borderline Genius!

s0laris · Oct 14, 2006, 12:29 AM

with the 2 negative sides in the middle, are you not having the both motors spin opposite instead of same direction?

Johny.B.Goode · Oct 14, 2006, 01:53 AM

It works!!! You just saved me $24. Thanks!

s0laris · Oct 14, 2006, 01:46 PM

oh thats a parralel wiring setup.. DUH

Thats why mine doesnt work, I did series and didnt have enough strength

s0laris · Oct 14, 2006, 06:41 PM

I guess ther acid flux is a MUST, as It wont solder at all without it.. just lumps up

Time to get flux

tribologist · Oct 15, 2006, 04:43 PM

Skip the solder, Try to glue them together and let us know how it works.

Ulf

s0laris · Oct 17, 2006, 01:27 AM

I tried super glue.. but vibrations separates it over time.

and then you need solder another wire for (-)

s0laris · Oct 17, 2006, 01:28 AM

there is not enough surface for the glue to make contact. I can see why solder is a much better option

tribologist · Oct 17, 2006, 10:03 PM

Thanks for the update, That is a good point. I have NEVER seen a slot car motor come loose as long as you get the solder to wet the can. I think tin-lead eutecticum has pretty food fatigue properties. It is used all the time to solder stuff that keep us alive in airplanes....

s0laris · Oct 18, 2006, 03:31 PM

I am waiting for a new soldering iron to arrive (my 15 amp wont do it)

TailTwister · Oct 20, 2006, 03:43 PM

A dot of JB Weld and a second wire for "-"?

Otherwise, I'm sure I have some flux around here somewhere...

I love simple solutions like this. Great post!

blademangler · Dec 01, 2006, 07:26 PM

Thanks for an absolutely brilliant solution! It was right on time for me, since I googled onto your topic this afternoon, and right after starting a session, my tail motor started dying. After trip to the LHS & about 20 minutes of geekin', it works! I still need to muck with some adjustments for the gyro and balance, but I'm hoping that these motors will last a lot longer than the 3 or so hours the last one gave me.

Again, thanks a lot!

Jim

Sep 22, 2006, 10:36 PM	#1
tribologist Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: South Windsor Posts: 390	Simple "free" dual motor solution for Blade CP This is a solution for dual tail motors for the Blade CP that I got inspired to by the way motors are soldered to the chassi in allmost all 1:24 slot cars. It worked out great and is a much lighter solution than the milled aluminum mounts that you can find on the web. Good luck, let us know if it works out for you or if you have suggestions for improvements. Ulf Attached Thumbnails Finished dual motor tail drive without hassle or un-nessesary added weight. 15 min total work time. 17.8 KB · Views: 1655 Here is a typical motor installation on a entry level 1:24 slotcar. The can is soldered both to the bracket next to the gear and to the bottom. Please note that the gears are straight. On higher end cars they use bevel pinion but this works fine to. 11.7 KB · Views: 1290 The easiest way to cut out for the added motor is a rotary tool with a small drum sander but a knife could work with added patience. Remove the bearings or cover with tape. 15.4 KB · Views: 1047 Tail rotor mount cut, trimmed and ready for the motor to go back in. Take the opportunity to open up the screw holes a tiny bit to allow the motor to be rotated slightly. This is needed later in order to set the gear mesh. 11.3 KB · Views: 1021 Hold the motor in place, I had a small magnet behind to aid in keeping them together. Put the motors so that the positive terminals are next to each other. Put a small piece of solder where the joint is going to be and use a acid based flux for best resul 17.3 KB · Views: 1421 Use a 50W or larger iron with a wide tip. The bigger the better. If you hold the motor on the gear and on the endbell you should not be able to overheat it :-) 11.8 KB · Views: 1168 Finished joint. Make sure the solder wetted both cans and that the joint takes some load by pushing on it. Adjust the gear mesh by loosening the motor screws and turn the motor. If you can't get a good gear mesh you need to open up the holes or re-so 11.7 KB · Views: 1738 You only need to bridge the positive since the negative is connected through the cans. Here is the reason why the positives should be next to each other. 13.1 KB · Views: 1996 The added weight forced me to extend the battery shelf with some G-10 to get the center of gravity back. (I like to use a 730mAh and that is quite a bit lighter than the original battery on the CP pro.) 16.6 KB · Views: 1141 Last edited by tribologist; Oct 01, 2006 at 06:31 PM.

Oct 15, 2006, 04:43 PM	#9
tribologist Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: South Windsor Posts: 390	Skip the solder, Try to glue them together and let us know how it works. Ulf Last edited by tribologist; Oct 15, 2006 at 04:50 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Discussion What brushless tail motor for Blade CP?	Jerry Brown	Micro Helis	10	Feb 28, 2008 07:50 PM
Discussion Brushless motor upgrade for Blade CP	Tyler F	Micro Helis	1	Apr 24, 2007 10:34 PM
Discussion Brushed motor upgrade for Blade cp?	Jkirch86	Micro Helis	7	Mar 12, 2007 09:59 AM
Question Brushless Motor for Blade CP?	Rare Bear	Micro Helis	10	May 27, 2006 12:26 AM
Motor for Blade CP	remoteav8r	Micro Helis	10	Dec 15, 2005 06:31 PM

Sep 23, 2006, 11:30 AM	#2
pico flyer Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Woodstock Georgia Posts: 129	great piece of work, love the pics. thank you!

Sep 23, 2006, 06:50 PM	#3
Soarmax it's just plane fun Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 153	What a Great Idea!!

Sep 28, 2006, 02:43 AM	#4
McDanger Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Aberdeen,Scotland, UK Posts: 1,142	Borderline Genius!

Oct 14, 2006, 12:29 AM	#5
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	with the 2 negative sides in the middle, are you not having the both motors spin opposite instead of same direction?

Oct 14, 2006, 01:53 AM	#6
Johny.B.Goode Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 6	It works!!! You just saved me $24. Thanks!

Oct 14, 2006, 01:46 PM	#7
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	oh thats a parralel wiring setup.. DUH Thats why mine doesnt work, I did series and didnt have enough strength

Oct 14, 2006, 06:41 PM	#8
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	I guess ther acid flux is a MUST, as It wont solder at all without it.. just lumps up Time to get flux

Oct 17, 2006, 01:27 AM	#10
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	I tried super glue.. but vibrations separates it over time. and then you need solder another wire for (-)

Oct 17, 2006, 01:28 AM	#11
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	there is not enough surface for the glue to make contact. I can see why solder is a much better option

Oct 17, 2006, 10:03 PM	#12
tribologist Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: South Windsor Posts: 390	Thanks for the update, That is a good point. I have NEVER seen a slot car motor come loose as long as you get the solder to wet the can. I think tin-lead eutecticum has pretty food fatigue properties. It is used all the time to solder stuff that keep us alive in airplanes....

Oct 18, 2006, 03:31 PM	#13
s0laris Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 269	I am waiting for a new soldering iron to arrive (my 15 amp wont do it)

Oct 20, 2006, 03:43 PM	#14
TailTwister Airplane Pimp Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Menasha, WI USA Posts: 498	A dot of JB Weld and a second wire for "-"? Otherwise, I'm sure I have some flux around here somewhere... I love simple solutions like this. Great post!

Dec 01, 2006, 07:26 PM	#15
blademangler Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 76	Thanks for an absolutely brilliant solution! It was right on time for me, since I googled onto your topic this afternoon, and right after starting a session, my tail motor started dying. After trip to the LHS & about 20 minutes of geekin', it works! I still need to muck with some adjustments for the gyro and balance, but I'm hoping that these motors will last a lot longer than the 3 or so hours the last one gave me. Again, thanks a lot! Jim