|Sep 28, 2006, 02:10 PM|
I think I might need to clear up something about the nose windows.
I haven't had the question yet but I'm bound to.
The top portion of the nose bubble is placed on the fuselage and the seam for the front nose cone is marked ( dashed line )
The top piece is then nested into the nosecone and the line is transferred to the nosecone.
Use a sharpie. it will wipe off with alcohol.
The parts are then cut and a narrow doubler is bonded to the nosecone with thin CA.
I recommend the applicator you see here. My LHS is the supplier. If you know where you can get it on line please post it!
It is the single most valuable tool next to my hobby knife and sandpaper.
Use tape to hold the top piece and the nosecone at the sides and bond only the center. After it sets you can complete the bond.
|Sep 28, 2006, 02:17 PM|
I think these are what you are using.
|Sep 28, 2006, 03:12 PM|
Close but no.
The ones I buy have the tips pre stretched out to a fine point.
Those work just as well but you have to heat the end with a flame and stretch it out to a point.
All that's left is trimming.
Thanks for doing the search and the post.
I wasn't sure where to start.
|Sep 30, 2006, 07:10 PM|
1 st flight
The first flight was this morning. Ronnie will post the shots later.
It all went very well. The roll out was short and climb out was gentle enough to continue with the flight test program. The roll rate is rather boring but is enough to get you out of trouble.
aileron throw 1/2 inch up and down at the inboard tip
Elevator throw. . .3/4 up and down at the TE
The first thing I noticed on the fly-by was how low the tail rides.
Looks like I got the incidence wrong. 1.5 degree nose up at the stab is not enough.
I made a cut at the bottom of the stab, dropped the hinge line 1/8 inch to get a 3 degree difference between the wing root and the stab.
This afternoon I made four more flights. . . .much better. All that was left was the flap testes.
at 15 degrees the approach speed difference was hardly noticeable 20 slowed her down fairly good but 30 degrees was something to see. Power was needed to overcome the drag but the decent was fairly steep. She touched down like a slow stick. The ailerons were very mushy and I believe coupling the rudders 40% was the saving grace.
I cant say the flaps were worth all the extra work but it is kinda neat having the option.
Maybe the next time Ronnie and I get together he can shoot some video.
A little patching and some detail work and she will be ready for BEST next weekend.
|Oct 01, 2006, 12:07 AM|
We flew it on a 9X5 prop ( EF 480 )
The speed at mid range throttle looked the same as full power.
I put a pair of 9x7 props on it and it got better, but after the flap testes the cells came home a little too hot for me.
I'll do an 9x7 amp draw test soon and get back to you.
Yes I'm sticking with the E flight 480's
|Oct 01, 2006, 12:15 AM|
Here you go... we'll definitely have to hook up after BEST and commit this beauty to video and thanks for taking the shots of my A-7 today!
|Oct 01, 2006, 12:52 PM|
Looks fantastic. Seeing the crewmembers in there really add to it. Can't wait to see it with the markings. Congratulations.
|Oct 01, 2006, 04:03 PM|
Nice shots as usual Ronnie.
Keith - glad it does better now, it wasn't too bad on the first flight. I told Doug he should not mis Saturday AM flying again for AirSoft stuff!
|Oct 02, 2006, 02:29 PM|
I have been shamed into putting guns on the sides of my model.
Seeing that big open space on the side did the trick.
I want everyone to have the option so I'm adding it to the plastic set.
Those of you that have plastic already will receive the guns in an envelope soon.
Back to the shop to add details.
|Oct 02, 2006, 02:35 PM|
Ron has given me some shots of the windows being bonded to the foam fuselage.
His turret will be mounted separately. I think he is going to attach a servo to it so it can turn in flight. Perhaps couple it to either the flap knob on the TX or just couple it to the rudder.
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