|Oct 25, 2007, 03:36 AM|
oh okay i see! (i was looking through my dremel tips and saw the cone shaped tip)!
oh so basically do the same 2mm depth with the cone shaped bit on the hinge areas!
|Oct 26, 2007, 12:40 AM|
how's progress going along with the milled bling bling v3?
I just finished my yak 54 milled!! lol i'm so happy it's done!
Well it's 46 grams assembled but without radio equipment and LG!
And i have another 70 g of that to come including battery!
So that makes a little below 120g!
This is the ikarus yak 54 but scratched out!
Or i could use my park 180 and get it below 95g AUW!
|Oct 26, 2007, 01:07 AM|
Progress is slow but I did get my E-Flight S60 servos down to ~5 grams. Hopefully I will be able to use the gram scale at school tomorrow to get the exact weight.
I also bought one of the E-Flight prop adaptors for my motor witch saved 2 grams!
This weekend the airframe should be all done and all the electronics installed except for the RX and ESC.
Nooflyer, that sounds great. I have 125 gram Ikarus Yak with the Park 250 and it flies very well.
Pictures to come.
|Oct 26, 2007, 03:11 AM|
on that ikarus yak that you have, did you use any carbon in the wing or did you use nothing but tiny carbon rods?
Well i have some 4.3 g servos and they aren't that smooth but they were cheap!
|Oct 28, 2007, 07:36 AM|
Guys, one great way to brace ANY foamie is to use the LE CF like Ikarus supplies...problem is its WAY WAY WAY too heavy. So use Dave Browns CF ribbon, also now available from other sources. Typically its .007" thick, or about the same as 2 sheets of paper and comes in half inch or wider ribbon. It strips down just like Xmas ribbon to whatever width you need. So I just peel off 3mm strips and glue on the LE and on some planes the back edge at the aileron gap. That give you the same strenght and rigidity that the much heavy 1 mm thick CF provides but the weight penality is tiny, mostly from glue
On my 39.4" jumbo F3A it only cost me .7grams to add 6mm wide(it has doubled LE foam)
|Nov 03, 2007, 06:22 PM|
I just maidened my blingbling a few hours ago. I couldn't get mine to balance at the spot shown on the plans either, I'm using 2s 300 mah batteries (hyperion i think) at 23 grams, and the little hacker a10-15s at 15 grams. I could have moved the battery a little further forward, but decided to just fly it and see how it went as I usually find "recommended CG settings" to be way too far forward for my liking. As is usually the case, the airplane flew nicely at the rearward CG, I think it's about 8mm aft of the position shown on the plans. The airplane was pretty neutral in pitch stability at this setting.
|Nov 03, 2007, 07:38 PM|
By the way what prop are you using, what weight is your plane and how do you find the power? I've a Hacker A10-15s on the way and I'm using Hyperion VX300 cells myself (mine weigh between 19g and 20g )
|Nov 04, 2007, 09:08 AM|
I have great difficulty flying aircraft with a tendency to fall out of the sky, especially when inverted, so I always go with the aft CG. My flights with the blingbling were outside with some wind so I wasn't able to see how well the aircraft tracked in a straight line, but it didn't seem jumpy at all from what I could tell.
I'm using the GWS 7X3.5 prop, I think it's a "hyperdrive" but i can't remember if that term even applies to the smaller props. At 127 grams RTF, the combination has plenty of power even for outdoor flying. It hovered easily with power to spare. My first two flight s I timed at 4:30 and put 157 and 170 mah back into the batteries, so I've extended the timer to 6:00 for now, which is linked to the throttle stick. This combo doesn't exert much torque, so I had to force the torque rolls with the ailerons to get it to spin around. I'm totally satisfied with this power combination. You'll fall in love with the fiberglass motor mount, it makes life so easy you'll be grinning from ear to ear. I just used some transparent tape to mount the motor to the front of the fuselage. How can it get any easier? It for sure saves an hour or two of work because you dont have to build a motor mount of any kind.
|Nov 04, 2007, 06:03 PM|
Mini Bling Bling
Here is my Mini BlingBling, scaled down by about 80% down to 24" span.
UH 10 gram motor
CC10 ( I wanted to try a UH controller, but the light ones are always out of stock)
Lepton 5 rcvr
3x Dymond 4.7
Weight ( less battery) 71.6 grams
I tried 3 different 2S packs .
AUW with each:
etec(?) 250 from HL 85.6 grams -almost right on my target weight
PQ 300 "20C" from HL 91.5 grams
TP 480 97 grams
The space I flew in was long and high, but quite narrow. I am also rusty after flying mainly sailplanes all summer , so getting it trimmed out was tricky.
It flew best with the light 250 pack, but they sagged badly in hovering and verticals.
I had high hopes for the PQ300, but they seemed to have lost both punch and capacity since last time I used them.
Best power was with the TP pack, but the model felt heavy, and I had to hack into it a bit to get the CG close..
Unfortunately a close encounter with the wall broke my only 7x3.5 so I didn't get as much flying in as I would have liked.
Flys very nice, I will try to post some video later.
This was my first time using the carbon truss fuselage bracing, and I am sold. Incredibly stiff and quite easy to do.
I might order some Full River cells. They should be just about perfect.
edit - video posted. Don't expect any F3P style flying though
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|Nov 04, 2007, 07:40 PM|
After much hemming and hawing over what F3p plane to put together for the indoor season, I've decided to join the Bling Bling club. Pretty standard build:
Park 250 motor
Electrifly 8 amp esc
Dualsky 7.4 300mAh
eflight s-60 servos lightened to about 4.5 grams
I still have to install the servos, but looks like I'm on track to come in right around 130g, hopefully under. I decided to try out the little triangle vortex generator cutouts. They added about 45 minutes to the build, but came out better than I expected using a drafting stencil as a guide for the blade. Looking forward to flying it
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