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Old May 06, 2007, 08:29 PM
Old F-4 Crewchief
fuzzyhead's Avatar
Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
1,266 Posts
Thanks Tommy. Sounds like the best approach. Got access to plenty of longer screws. This is my first GWS b/l motor. Not sure why the shafts are soo short. After that the build is done. Everything else is cosmetic. Hope to maiden her this weekend.
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Old May 07, 2007, 11:47 AM
BYOP - Build Your Own Planes
Mountain Models's Avatar
United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Mar 2001
1,721 Posts
Hey guys,

On the motor, try using a small 1/16" or 1/8" shim behind the motor mount. I'm not sure why it's short, though... it was very close on mine, but it still fit??? Sorry about that.

Brian
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Old May 09, 2007, 06:09 PM
Old F-4 Crewchief
fuzzyhead's Avatar
Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
1,266 Posts
Not sure how, but the prop problem is solved. I added spacers both behind the motor and mount. Stopped by my LHS to find props that might have a longer hub. Suddenly the light bulb came on. I pulled out all the spacers and used a collet type prop adapter. Guess what? All fits nicely with more than enough clearance. Haven't built in a while and missed the obvious. Anyway, I'm done except for decals. Hope to maiden this weekend. Thanks to all for your help.
Rick
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Old May 12, 2007, 05:09 PM
Old F-4 Crewchief
fuzzyhead's Avatar
Schertz, Texas, United States
Joined May 2004
1,266 Posts
Finally finished. Just a bit to breezy today for the maiden. Tomorrow morning should be good. Not to impreesed with my covering job but that is one of my weak points. Looks real good from 5 feet away though.

The decals are from Parkzones J-3 Cub. My LHS had a set for $4.95. You can order them from Hobbytown USA among other places but add $5 shipping. The wing letters/numbers are a little bigger than I'd like but look ok. I used the motor decal to ad the exhaust pipe and the Continental decal on the silver covers. Of course the Cub decal was worth the price. Don't have a scale so not sure what the auw is. I am using 2s 1600 which adds a little extra. Hoping for the best tomorrow.
Rick

May 13
The maiden didn't go quite so well. The weather was good. Set her down and throttled up. Went about 6 feet then made a hard left turn. Tried again and the same result but this time pulled right. For some reason the wheels were sticking. Pulled them apart and cleaned up the axles. In my haste I glued the wrong tubing to the axle. Have to wait until my LHS opens up Tuesday to get more tubing. Very frustrating.
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Last edited by fuzzyhead; May 13, 2007 at 08:55 PM.
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Old May 15, 2007, 09:04 PM
I need a bigger garage...
ajreynolds's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2005
1,292 Posts
I'm getting close on mine as well. I've finished it in red Solite. I'm having a problem painting the cowl though. I've tried some Pactra racing finish that I had sitting around and some Model Master Acryl (Italian red is very close to red Solite), and both of them peel off the plastic really easily.

This is my first cowl, so maybe I'm missing something. Is there anything I need to do to prepare the cowl for painting? Is there a better brand of paint to use for this? I'd really appreciate any help.

I'll post pictures once I have a decent looking cowl.

Thanks!

Andy
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Old May 16, 2007, 10:25 AM
BYOP - Build Your Own Planes
Mountain Models's Avatar
United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Mar 2001
1,721 Posts
Andy,

I always was plastic pats with just a bit of dishwashing liquid and make sure it's very well rinsed afterwards.

For a good Red So-Lite match, try the Tamiya Bright Red (TS-49). It's what I used on my clipped wing cub and it looks like a good match.

Brian
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Old May 16, 2007, 12:50 PM
56S
Certified Balsa Breaker
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Joined Nov 2006
1,468 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajreynolds
Is there anything I need to do to prepare the cowl for painting? .

Thanks!

Andy
I used ajax or comet scouring powder on plastic prior to painting. A soft toothbrush works well. For primer, instead of the expensive two part vari-prime auto primer, pick up a can of self etching primer from NAPA. Last time I checked they were about 7 bucks for a standard rattle can. Let that dry and scuff prior to color coat.
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Old May 16, 2007, 05:24 PM
I need a bigger garage...
ajreynolds's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2005
1,292 Posts
Thanks guys, I'll try that out. I'm taking too long building this thing... I want to get it in the air!

Andy
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Old May 27, 2007, 06:55 PM
I need a bigger garage...
ajreynolds's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego
Joined Mar 2005
1,292 Posts
Finally done!!!

I finally finished and maidened mine today (clipped wing version). I was pretty nervous, being my first kit build and all, but everything appears to have come out straight and the plane flew great! My setup is as follows:

400XT
TBird 18 ESC
APC 8x3.8SF
FullyMax 1050 3S lipo packs
HS55 servos for the tail
GWS Naro servos for the wing

AUW is just over 16 oz.

I definitely recommend putting thin carbon rods on the inside of the cabin pieces, as suggested by someone earlier in the thread. I would have broken the balsa several times over during building and covering.

Great kit Brian!

Andy
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 12:20 PM
Registered User
Miami, FL
Joined Mar 2007
683 Posts
i just recieved my cub kit today, everything appears to be in great shape and will start building as soon as i get home. this is my second attempt at a kit, my frist being a fundango that ended prematurely when my cleaning lady smashed the wing i just finished building, but wow this cub seems 500x's better quality and 500x's easier to build. kinda worried about the covering, but i'll cross that bridge when its reached.

i'm planning on using an esskay 400xt and the recommended servo's. havent decided on a prop yet. only issue i have is that i have 6 3s2100mah lipo's and would really prefer not to buy something smaller. will this be toooooo heavy or will it be doable? if it'll ruin the models characteristics i guess i'll spring for some 3s1320mah's as i've been wanting a couple but i'd really like to use the 2100's. Brian, what do you think of using the 3s2100's? anyone tried it? if anything i'll give it a try and if it flies to heavy i'll get the lighter batteries.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 12:26 PM
Fly it like you stole it..
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Florence, Al
Joined Oct 2000
29,298 Posts
*cough* L-4.. *cough*
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 02:02 PM
Obviously I'm a "Minus Member"
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USA, MA, Longmeadow
Joined Jun 2003
1,802 Posts
Yani, the 2100's will add a couple of ounces, at least, I would think. If you are building the stock J-3 (not clipped wing), it will probably handle the weight OK. But if you want nice slow flight, I'd suggest getting lighter batteries. I'm flying mine with the 400XT and a 3 cell 800mAh battery. I'm still flying at less than half throttle.

Enjoy the build, as it will go quickly!

Mark
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 02:26 PM
Registered User
Miami, FL
Joined Mar 2007
683 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzltyr
Yani, the 2100's will add a couple of ounces, at least, I would think. If you are building the stock J-3 (not clipped wing), it will probably handle the weight OK. But if you want nice slow flight, I'd suggest getting lighter batteries. I'm flying mine with the 400XT and a 3 cell 800mAh battery. I'm still flying at less than half throttle.

Enjoy the build, as it will go quickly!

Mark

yea its the full size wing, i wanted a slow relaxing plane with long flight times. i guess i wont get that with the 3s2100, apart from long flights but i'll try it just to make sure, no harm in experimenting.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 04:28 PM
BYOP - Build Your Own Planes
Mountain Models's Avatar
United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Mar 2001
1,721 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tram
*cough* L-4.. *cough*
*caugh* getting there... strengthening some areas...*caugh*

On the 2100 packs, it'll be a couple ounces heavier, It won't fly quite as slowly, but it should still be fairly slow.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 04:31 PM
Fly it like you stole it..
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Florence, Al
Joined Oct 2000
29,298 Posts
*cough* youdaman.. *cough*
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