Does a Raptor 60 electric conversion kit exist?! - Page 8

RC Man · Oct 02, 2006, 01:07 PM

It will be nice when Gary Goodrum gets the full line of Z motors in stock. Does the factory have a web sight that lists all the motors and winds available.

RC

Albig · Oct 02, 2006, 02:21 PM

Tell you what RC, There's even going to be a Z70 for 90 sized stuff real soon.

RC Man · Oct 02, 2006, 04:05 PM

Al, where can I find motor constants for these motors?

Albig · Oct 02, 2006, 04:18 PM

I honestly don't where you might find them on the internet.

But even if you did, they're going to be changed with the newest versions that will begin to be available in a few weeks or sooner.

There is a whole new redesigned core in the newest versions that will supposedly reduce current draw by as much as 20%.

We'll have to just wait and see. There should be some solid info available within the same time frame that the new E Raptor is available and I've been assured that should be within 2 weeks hopefully. They may already in the US.

The Z70s will take a little longer.

I'm sure that you'll hear about them first right here

RC Man · Oct 02, 2006, 07:18 PM

Better performance at a lower cost is always a winning combination. Looks like I will have to consider converting my Raptor 90 to EP as a winter project. Hopefully there will be more motor choices early next year.

RC

scary · Oct 04, 2006, 09:55 PM

alrightey.... the progress of the installation is going well - however, the gear seems to have a little 'tightness' to it. is there a way to calculate, or is there a maximum amount of force allowable on the gearing for best performance?

its just a matter of twaeking the position of the motor pinion in line with the 10t pinion. it seems its a touch (like 1-2mm) of centre and hence, makes the gear a little tight to turn.

any advice? RC Man? ;-)

PJRono · Oct 05, 2006, 10:39 AM

If you are talking about mesh between the main and pinion gears there should be a tiny amount of backlash(wiggle room) between the two. Some people use on piece of papertowel between the gears while they tighten them down. I just make sure the pinion can wiggle back and forth a tiny bit. Sometimes the oval holes in the frames don't allow the pinion(start shaft assy) to be slid forward enough, so you have to elongate the oval holes in the frame just a smidge to allow the assy to slide forward. I had to do this with the carbon R90 frames the front(?) set of holes in the top subframe would stop the assy from moving forward(they didn't line up quite right).

RC Man · Oct 05, 2006, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scary

alrightey.... the progress of the installation is going well - however, the gear seems to have a little 'tightness' to it. is there a way to calculate, or is there a maximum amount of force allowable on the gearing for best performance?

its just a matter of twaeking the position of the motor pinion in line with the 10t pinion. it seems its a touch (like 1-2mm) of centre and hence, makes the gear a little tight to turn.

any advice? RC Man? ;-)

To adjust the gear mesh you have to move both the motor and the bearing block. It is important that the motor and bearing block are adjusted so that the pinion and shaft are straight up and down. The gearing block mounting holes have slots for this purpose. With some motor and gear combinations it is necessary to remove come plastic from the big hold in the fan duce so you can move the motor to the correct position.

The Raptor needs a fairly tight (but not binding) gear mesh and will ware in properly in a few flights. Don’t drill the mounting plate holes through the fan duct until you get everything lined up properly. I used a drop of glue to hold it for drilling.

An alternate method would to make slotted holes in the mounting plate so you could easily adjust it for other gear ratios.

Hope this answers your question,

RC

scary · Oct 05, 2006, 10:08 PM

arhhhh

i think my problem has been trying to mount the motor according to where i initially mounting the bearing block.... i was moving the mount around instead! heheh

here are some progress pics...

i think we have come to the conclusion that raptor 60 heli mounts do exist....
if you make them yourself!

ozace · Oct 05, 2006, 10:17 PM

Looks like you are making progress, keep it up.

gruntdog · Oct 07, 2006, 09:37 PM

got my Raptor 60 today and a R90 boom set to go with it for a stretch tail

will start in on the adapter plate in the morning

Very nice heli , real clean so I can dive rite into the cinversion without haveing to dismantle and clean

pics to follow soon

scary · Oct 08, 2006, 07:57 AM

okay, the drive shaft seems to be sorted out now and it spins well.

moving onto batteries....

RC Man, you recommended the 11s setup with my A50 -16s motor and the calcs seem to work well with my 10t pinion and 94t main gear.
ive got 2 * 4s3p 6000mAh arriving shortly. then next question is will a 3s2p 5000mAh hooked in with series with the only 4s3p be a good approach? having the 1000mAh difference between then packs should be alright? these higher mAh packs should hopefully give me some good flight time aswell.
will there be any issues with charging or balancing?
cheers

RC Man · Oct 08, 2006, 11:35 AM

Your battery arrangement should work as long as you charge and balance the packs independently.

According to my calculations with 94/10 gears you will get about 1600 headspeed. That might be a good place to start and see if you need more headspeed and power. With 94/11 gears you will get about 1700-1750 headspeed.

What ESC did you get?
Are you using the ESC’s governor mode?

Looks like you are getting close,
RC

scary · Oct 08, 2006, 09:13 PM

yes i think im getting there

im awaiting in the post a CC HV 85. also, a caluclated weight of the raptor is ~5kgs with all camera equipment. as you know, this ais a dedicated AP ship, so headspeed and hence, flight duration are important.

in regards to batteries, i can sharge and balance the packs independently as you said which is fine. in regards to the flight itself, having a different mAh/voltage pack should be okay to use with the other in series?

RC Man · Oct 09, 2006, 06:33 AM

I have run different MAH packs with no problems. Just make sure that you land before you the lower MAH pack is depleted. If you run down the lower MAH pack too far you could destroy it.

Oct 05, 2006, 10:08 PM	#114
scary Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bunbury, Australia Posts: 66	arhhhh i think my problem has been trying to mount the motor according to where i initially mounting the bearing block.... i was moving the mount around instead! heheh here are some progress pics... i think we have come to the conclusion that raptor 60 heli mounts do exist.... if you make them yourself! Last edited by scary; Oct 06, 2006 at 03:17 AM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
For Sale TT Raptor home build ccpm&electric conversion kit	Hsin Liu	Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W)	0	Jun 13, 2007 10:01 PM
XeroG 600EP Electric Raptor 50 CCPM conversion kit in stock	rcheliman	Electric Heli Talk	2	Dec 21, 2005 04:15 AM
Raptor Electric Conversion Kit	Steph280	Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W)	1	Oct 15, 2004 02:01 PM
Does LMH offer a gas to electric conversion kit?	totalboss	Electric Heli Talk	1	Nov 24, 2002 01:51 PM
Great Planes electric conversion kit	crash rebuild	Power Systems	4	Sep 08, 2001 01:58 AM

Oct 02, 2006, 01:07 PM	#106
RC Man A man with too many helicopter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 10,681	It will be nice when Gary Goodrum gets the full line of Z motors in stock. Does the factory have a web sight that lists all the motors and winds available. RC

Oct 02, 2006, 02:21 PM	#107
Albig Das Universus Elektrikus Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: NM, USA Posts: 3,309	Tell you what RC, There's even going to be a Z70 for 90 sized stuff real soon.

Oct 02, 2006, 04:05 PM	#108
RC Man A man with too many helicopter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 10,681	Al, where can I find motor constants for these motors?

Oct 02, 2006, 04:18 PM	#109
Albig Das Universus Elektrikus Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: NM, USA Posts: 3,309	I honestly don't where you might find them on the internet. But even if you did, they're going to be changed with the newest versions that will begin to be available in a few weeks or sooner. There is a whole new redesigned core in the newest versions that will supposedly reduce current draw by as much as 20%. We'll have to just wait and see. There should be some solid info available within the same time frame that the new E Raptor is available and I've been assured that should be within 2 weeks hopefully. They may already in the US. The Z70s will take a little longer. I'm sure that you'll hear about them first right here

Oct 02, 2006, 07:18 PM	#110
RC Man A man with too many helicopter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 10,681	Better performance at a lower cost is always a winning combination. Looks like I will have to consider converting my Raptor 90 to EP as a winter project. Hopefully there will be more motor choices early next year. RC

Oct 04, 2006, 09:55 PM	#111
scary Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bunbury, Australia Posts: 66	alrightey.... the progress of the installation is going well - however, the gear seems to have a little 'tightness' to it. is there a way to calculate, or is there a maximum amount of force allowable on the gearing for best performance? its just a matter of twaeking the position of the motor pinion in line with the 10t pinion. it seems its a touch (like 1-2mm) of centre and hence, makes the gear a little tight to turn. any advice? RC Man? ;-)

Oct 05, 2006, 10:39 AM	#112
PJRono Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Ham Lake, MN Posts: 103	If you are talking about mesh between the main and pinion gears there should be a tiny amount of backlash(wiggle room) between the two. Some people use on piece of papertowel between the gears while they tighten them down. I just make sure the pinion can wiggle back and forth a tiny bit. Sometimes the oval holes in the frames don't allow the pinion(start shaft assy) to be slid forward enough, so you have to elongate the oval holes in the frame just a smidge to allow the assy to slide forward. I had to do this with the carbon R90 frames the front(?) set of holes in the top subframe would stop the assy from moving forward(they didn't line up quite right).

Oct 05, 2006, 10:17 PM	#115
ozace Renewed interest Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Melbourne , Australia Posts: 8,918	Looks like you are making progress, keep it up.

Oct 07, 2006, 09:37 PM	#116
gruntdog Big Kid / Big Toys Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 264	got my Raptor 60 today and a R90 boom set to go with it for a stretch tail will start in on the adapter plate in the morning Very nice heli , real clean so I can dive rite into the cinversion without haveing to dismantle and clean pics to follow soon

Oct 08, 2006, 07:57 AM	#117
scary Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bunbury, Australia Posts: 66	okay, the drive shaft seems to be sorted out now and it spins well. moving onto batteries.... RC Man, you recommended the 11s setup with my A50 -16s motor and the calcs seem to work well with my 10t pinion and 94t main gear. ive got 2 * 4s3p 6000mAh arriving shortly. then next question is will a 3s2p 5000mAh hooked in with series with the only 4s3p be a good approach? having the 1000mAh difference between then packs should be alright? these higher mAh packs should hopefully give me some good flight time aswell. will there be any issues with charging or balancing? cheers

Oct 08, 2006, 11:35 AM	#118
RC Man A man with too many helicopter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 10,681	Your battery arrangement should work as long as you charge and balance the packs independently. According to my calculations with 94/10 gears you will get about 1600 headspeed. That might be a good place to start and see if you need more headspeed and power. With 94/11 gears you will get about 1700-1750 headspeed. What ESC did you get? Are you using the ESC’s governor mode? Looks like you are getting close, RC

Oct 08, 2006, 09:13 PM	#119
scary Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Bunbury, Australia Posts: 66	yes i think im getting there im awaiting in the post a CC HV 85. also, a caluclated weight of the raptor is ~5kgs with all camera equipment. as you know, this ais a dedicated AP ship, so headspeed and hence, flight duration are important. in regards to batteries, i can sharge and balance the packs independently as you said which is fine. in regards to the flight itself, having a different mAh/voltage pack should be okay to use with the other in series?

Oct 09, 2006, 06:33 AM	#120
RC Man A man with too many helicopter Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Illinois Posts: 10,681	I have run different MAH packs with no problems. Just make sure that you land before you the lower MAH pack is depleted. If you run down the lower MAH pack too far you could destroy it.