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Old Sep 03, 2006, 03:47 PM
Registered User
NC, USA
Joined Sep 2006
46 Posts
Help!
Just bought used Corona, need help

this is my first heli.

My main question is about how to get the motor working. It has a mega 16/15/3 and a CC phoenix 35 esc. I have actually hovered with it a couple times, but more often than not I cant get the motor turning. It acts kind of "glitchy" and goes back and forth in short bursts and makes beeping sounds. I am arming the esc by full low throttle for a few seconds. I just changed all of the settings to the ones recomended, and it acts the same.
The casing of this motor is silver, and it seems like the ones I have seen online are black. Could this just be an older motor?

I was also trying to figure out how to attach the canopy. There is a balllistic technology carbon fiber crutch installed on it.

thanks for the help.

added:

The battery pack i am using is a 3300mah pack with the brand Powerizer on it. The charger that came with it only has a timer that goes up to 20 minutes. Is that long enough to fully charge the battery? Could the battery be part of the problem with the motor?
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Last edited by wolfcopter; Sep 03, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Sep 03, 2006, 04:05 PM
Registered User
Cape Town, South Africa
Joined Jan 2005
5,157 Posts
It sounds like one of your motor leads has a bad connection. The way you describe it sounds like a brushless motor being driven with only two leads connected.

I use the stock LMH canopy mounting kit on my BT Blade Pro crutches. Works great.
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Old Sep 03, 2006, 04:22 PM
mad heli scientist
Gadget01's Avatar
United States, OK, Oklahoma City
Joined Dec 2005
4,034 Posts
I agree with Aragon's assessment of your motor problem... get some new bullet-style connectors (at least 3.5mm). Cut the old connectors off both the motor and the ESC. Cut fresh insulation from the ends of the wires and solder on the new connectors. If that doesn't fix it, I would be very surprised.

It also sounds like you could use an upgrade to your charger. A simple timer dealio is not going to serve you very well. If you intend on sticking with this hobby for any considerable length of time, you would do yourself a favor by investing in a quality computerized peak charger- one that can charge nicad, lipo, and lead-acids (the 12v gel-cells). I used an el-cheapo charger at first and destroyed 3 lipo packs (at about $85 each) by the time I ordered the Triton. Had I invested earlier, I would have saved myself the more than the cost of the Triton. You don't NEED a Triton specifically... but it does work well.
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Old Sep 03, 2006, 08:37 PM
That'll hold until ...
swatson144's Avatar
Hampton Roads Va.
Joined Oct 2004
3,560 Posts
Good advice above!

In the interim with the 3300 NiMH packs. When run flat you can do the math to get a full charge. Asssuming your charger puts out the very common 3A you'd need 1 hr to get near a full charge. Simply put 3300 mAH is 3.3 Amp hours or a charge of 3.3 amps for one hour. or 3A for an hour and 6 mins. Don't try to charge to capacity unless you are monitoring it for heat though. They will peak and get hotter instead of charging and heat is destructive. It's a lot better to run them flat heli (barely hovers) before charging them. Atleast that way you have a vague notion of how long to charge.

Steve
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 04:16 AM
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Joined Feb 2006
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I agree, 20min really doesn't seem like long enough to charge a 3300 nimh. Look on ebay for a used peak charger if you don't stick with the hobby you can always unload it. A low battery won't cause the weird motor problems you are describing though.
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 01:56 PM
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NC, USA
Joined Sep 2006
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Ok, it seems that the problem was the connections. I thought they were tight but I tightened them some more and it works great now.

Now for the bad new... I had it hovering up about 20 feet today and spun it around once.. everything was fine, then about a half second later it goes out of control spinning, right into the ground/side of a building. The landing gear came off, looks like something might have broken where it attaches, and some links in the head came out. Guess I will need to look at the construction manual to see how to fix that.

I am wondering if there could have been a problem with the gyro or if the clevice came undone from the tail rotor, because it was disconnected after it crashed. It did spin around once yesterday right after takeoff by itself, but it just sat back down with no harm being done.

My tail boom is dented and bent a little, so I probably need a new one of those as well. What is the difference between the short and long tail booms I have seen advertised? will either once work? thanks.
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 03:17 PM
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Chappaqua, N.Y.
Joined May 2004
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If you have an elevated tail you need a short boom at 15", the regular Aluminum stock boom is 17.5".

Do you have the stock tail drive wire? Maybe the small pinions are loose or the blade hub screws need tightening? Also check connection from gyro to servo is always tight.

The clevis probably came undone with the crash.

If this is first heli you my have lost control due to being unfamiliar with orientation when turning. Happens to the best of us. :-)
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 03:20 PM
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Cape Town, South Africa
Joined Jan 2005
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The short booms are for LMH 110 helis. You need the long boom if it's a Corona you have. (13x0 blades)
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Old Sep 04, 2006, 09:52 PM
That'll hold until ...
swatson144's Avatar
Hampton Roads Va.
Joined Oct 2004
3,560 Posts
Those guys are right on again! No surprise as they really know their stuff.

If the boom is not bent up too bad, you can straighten it nicely with a 3/8" hardwood dowell (some large lumber yards have AL for a couple bucks more).

Maybe time to think about a boom protector. Aragon has a nice design I use. There are others that work well.

Steve.
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Old Sep 05, 2006, 02:40 AM
Registered User
Cape Town, South Africa
Joined Jan 2005
5,157 Posts
Is that a heatshrinked wooden protector? You have to glue it to the boom. The cable ties alone aren't enough to hold it in place for boom strikes.

I use UHU Por. It's a foam contact adhesive, but sticks to anything like crazy and is very easy to remove. (just peels off cleanly once dry)
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Old Sep 05, 2006, 05:22 AM
That'll hold until ...
swatson144's Avatar
Hampton Roads Va.
Joined Oct 2004
3,560 Posts
Yep you are so right Aragon! I sorta skipped that step when I changed it out. I usualy use hot melt which makes a nice saddle for the boom. I've also started using colored packing tape for covering, looks nice and lasts as long as heat shrink.

Steve
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Old Sep 05, 2006, 09:48 PM
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NC, USA
Joined Sep 2006
46 Posts
when I crashed I also lost some z links in the head. should I buy these or just make some more?

Also, is the tail servo supposed to act like this.. for example, if I put the trim all the way to the right, the servo will slowly turn until it has reached the end of its travel, it doesn't act like the others.
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Old Sep 06, 2006, 01:00 AM
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Pasadena, CA
Joined Jun 2003
3,182 Posts
If you can do tight enough, sharp enough right angle bends, you can make the z links. I always found it easiest to buy them...

The tail acts like that because of the gyro, likely setup in heading hold, or avcs mode.

You need to read up on how to setup the gyro. Like trimming it out, mechanicaly, in non-HH mode, and then switch over to HH mode.
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Old Sep 06, 2006, 02:27 AM
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Cape Town, South Africa
Joined Jan 2005
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Yup, the zlinks are so cheap it's not really worth making them IMHO.
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Old Sep 06, 2006, 04:22 PM
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NC, USA
Joined Sep 2006
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^^ so should it not be in avcs mode?
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