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Old Sep 13, 2006, 02:11 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Chris,
These designs aren't really aimed at laser cutting, like Charlie said, shipping would cost more than the parts.
Basically, all of the rudder parts except one can be cut from strip-wood and shaped after assembly. Pointless to push up the cost if an individual wants to get them laser cut, by including them in the cut sheets and equally pointless if not building from laser cut parts because they're so simple. However, I will add the horn supports and the curved piece of the rudder.

Keep raising these points mate. I don't mean to slap you down, just explain why I've done things the way I have. On which note, I take it you'd prefer the rear u/c wire and the pylon parts to fit into drilled holes, like on the Nieuport IV? Possibly do the main u/c the same as the newer one too? I have to admit, the idea of being able to cover an unencumbered fuselage does have its' appeal. What do the rest of you guys think on the subject? The stresses (lack of them) on a 7 oz. model should certainly allow it.

You know about steaming the bend into the bamboo skid? Steam the bit you want bent, induce the bend and hold till cool. It may take a few tries to get enough bend, but once there, it stays there. Also, remember to sand the skid well, bamboo is sharp stuff.

Pete
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 03:28 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
3,181 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE
I have to admit, the idea of being able to cover an unencumbered fuselage does have its' appeal. What do the rest of you guys think on the subject?
Definitely. As you know, I leave off all struts where possible until after covering and it would be nice to have that U/C out of the way too, and those 'V' supports for flying wires. The way you did them on the Morane was good - drill fine holes up into the formers and CA them in afterwards.

Steve
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:09 AM
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Long Island
Joined Jul 2006
292 Posts
Pete: I understand regarding the laser cutting. Very easy to build as drawn with the cut sheets.
I will keep asking you questions as I go. Remember, this is my first full scratch build. Keep slapping me down , its the only way I can learn.
Push in is definately the way to go. I was wondering about covering this model with the main uc in place. Not impossible by any means, but much nicer to cover the fuse without it in place.
As for bamboo, thanks for the tip. Finished it up last night. Took a couple of tries but worked out well.
Charlie: Yes, I had found the thread by Pete regarding wire wheels. It looks like I need to find a drawing for the jig. May end up trying to duplicate the jig from pictures. I was hoping to find some toy motorcycles or bicycles and steal the wheels but all seems too small. Actually found a set from my sons old MX toy, but they are 1 1/2" and look too small. Also spokes are funky.
Thanks for your help guys.
Chris
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:42 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Okay, I'll revise the drawing to show plug and glue u/c.

Pete
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 08:07 AM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Chris,

Make your own jig. I just used some hard balsa (any wood will work) to make the holding rigs. Glued them to a board that had a hole drilled for axle size wire. I marked the board under each hole in the rim so I could keep track of where the lacing needed to go. The hard part is getting the axle centered in the jig.

To allow for errors I only glued the start and finish of the spoke material while lacing. After done I put the wheel on an axle and spun it. It could them be 'shoved' until it ran true. Then I CA'd all the way around the rim to fix the "spokes" in place.

These type wheels are stronger than anything I've seen. My 5lb SPAD has not only taken off sideways, scrubbing the wheels until they chattered, but, it has had several crashes where the wheels took the brunt of the hit. Bent the LG but not a problem with the wheels.

charlie
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 10:46 AM
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Rio Rancho NM
Joined Dec 2004
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Sorry if I missed it but what were you using for lacing? SOmething like the non-stretch fishing lines or Kevlar thread I assume?
bill
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 05:18 PM
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Long Island
Joined Jul 2006
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Charlie: I have to give it a go then. I will re-read the thread and try to copy the jig. I know I'm going to have problems, so expect a lot of questions. Hope you guys don't mind. I have to give it a try either way. I'm stuck with no other options.

Bill: I believe all the threads indicated standard, low test, fishing line for the simulated spokes.

Chris
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Old Sep 13, 2006, 06:41 PM
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Actually, what I used on the SPAD was 20lb monofilament fishing line. It does stretch a little under heavy load, but, even a 5lb plane won't come close to stretching that stuff.

For the smaller wheels I'd use 8 or 10 lb mono line. Any smaller and you won't be able to see it

One other method the FF guys use. The hub section is clear plastic and the spokes are lined on with a pen. I think Peck Polymers makes them. Don't know how big, but, their golden age wheels are at least 1 1/2" dia. Probably too small for this size stuff.

charlie
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Old Sep 15, 2006, 05:46 PM
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Long Island
Joined Jul 2006
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Okay, not much going on with my build lately. Work has started to get a little crazy and is only going to get worse.
I pieced together the Nieuport today and took a few pics. Next I need to figure out the cockpit cowling. If all goes well, maybe some covering this weekend or early next week??
On a side note: I've ordered up some tubing and will be attempting to make my own wheels.
Chris
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Old Sep 15, 2006, 07:56 PM
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Pete: I've been looking at the built up balsa cockpit fairing from your build and I'm still trying to figure it out. The plan shows, in profile, a concave fairing. The section which is shown (can't figure where this section is on the profile) is semi circular. Looking at your build the cowl doesn't look concave but it is hard to tell.
Help me out wth this one Pete.
If I go concave on front of this piece, the sides will also have to be concave (using sheet balsa). I guess with solid balsa carved out a compond curve can be made. Did you use a solid block and carve it out? Your build mentions gluing together balsa bits. The plan reads hollowed balsa fairing which would suggest block??.
Thanks Pete.
Chris
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Old Sep 16, 2006, 01:49 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Chris,
The fairing is carved from block balsa, hollowed and glued in place on the fuselage. Whether you use a single piece of block, or make it up from glued together bits of balsa will depend on if you have a piece of block large enough.
The section shown is a typical section, to indicate the general shape of the fairing at it's deepest point.

Pete
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Old Sep 16, 2006, 03:16 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
3,181 Posts
Looking really good Chris - it's nice when you have all the main bits done and you can get an idea of what the finished model is going to look like.

All of my builds are now on hold, needing sheet covering for the decks (which has still not arrived), so to fill in the time I'm going to take the GWS 300 out of my BE2c and put in a S400/Mini Olympus unit, as I could do with some extra weight up front - I JUST achieved the balance point with the GWS but I'd like it a little further forward.

Steve
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Old Sep 16, 2006, 05:47 AM
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Long Island
Joined Jul 2006
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Pete: Just what i thought. I attempted to form the fairing using sheet balsa last night. Not too bad, other than being able to replicate the curved section. I'll play with it a little more. If I'm not satisfied I'll get some slabs and carve it. Thanks.

Steve: Thanks. Coming from you guys, I appreciate the encouragement. Get ready 'cause that shipment is right around the bend. It will keep you busy for a while. I'm dreading the start up of night work in 2 weeks. Glad it will only be for about a month. Then the holidays will be here . I hope things don't totally stop on my build.

Chris
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Old Sep 16, 2006, 06:02 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Chris,
Time now to start dropping heavy hints about gifts of balsa bundles, motors, batteries, etc. I try it every year but still end up with socks.
Get that fairing in place and it will really start to look great. You're doing a good job of the build, and keeping me on my toes with your queries. Between us, you're going to end up with a very pretty little model. That's the great thing about these forums, if one person can't help, there's always someone who can.

Pete
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Old Sep 16, 2006, 06:33 AM
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Long Island
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Pete: I've come to realize that this is a great little community.
I love the design of this model among many, many others. I can't believe just how sturdy your design has become. This fuse looks like it can really take some beating.
Funny you mention the hints. I just helped someone build a large storage shed (about 5 days/nights of part time work). As payment he offered to cover my next hobby order. It sure was going to be a large one . Well, it just didn't materialize. Seems he has forgotten all about it. Thats the worse part of helping the in-laws. Since its "family" I'm not going to push the issue.
Oh well, just placed my order on Thursday. I wonder if Santa will put your FE8 plans in my stocking? Doubt it .
Chris
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