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Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Tonights effort, rear shaping filler planed and sanded to shape. Well one side has been sanded (still needs a final smoothing sand) the other side still needs to be sanded.
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 07:56 AM
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Not much to report just sanded the other fin surround to shape and have just been adding in the aft fairing pieces and the stringers that run down the sides. I need to drop into the hobby store Monday to pick up a balsa saw, some of the stringer pieces ive got are pretty average and im getting the shits trying to cut them with my excel blade. So i might work on the lower hatch and belly structure tomorrow night and leave the other stuff till i can pick up the balsa saw.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 07:22 AM
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Well I got a bit of work done on the lower fuselage structure tonight. I'm off to the hobby store in the morning to pick up a balsa saw and also some more balsa stock as some of the stuff I had lieing around i.e. the stringers I referred to in my post above are pretty hard and heavy so I want to try and see if I can find some better stuff.

But I believe my fuselage structure is getting close to completion, and then I need to finish of the cowl and motor box and then move onto the wings. I'll just be waiting on TnT soon, I placed my order right at the start of the Toledo show so they were'nt shipping until after the 16th but it's been 5-6 days since they were meant to be back and I'm yet to hear a thing, so looks like I might end up sitting around twiddling my thumbs waiting on my wing tubes. Since being International there is about a 7-10 working day wait once they post them.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 11:51 AM
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I like the flames on the red and black!!

Those colors do not show up well in contrast in the sky, but the plane is large enough to maintain orientation fairly easily when flying close. you can cheat a little on the bottom if you are concerned.

Lots of sanding comming up on the cowl, lots.

covering the front of the cowl was a PITA Ultra Cote wll go around the curves but takes some effort. You could also paint to match. I think that is what Kerry did on his.

Moveing along

Dennis
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by luke352 View Post
Thanks!

As for color scheme it's a bit of an odd one since this model from what I understand is based of the Model 12S of which there has only been about 3 produced. So i'm going to go with a standard Model 12 scheme from which there is many too choose from. Issue is many of them are way above my covering and detail ability level so i've been umming and ahhing over ones that look good yet won't have me going for months trying to get everything "right". At the same time there is also the consideration of orientation.

So i've got two schemes in mind at this time.
N177AD http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=n177ad http://www.2wings.com/m12/images/sn1...s1/images1.htm

or

N612PS http://www.2wings.com/m12/images/sn006/sn006.htm

N612 would be better for orientation but I find the black and white across the top of the wing a bit too prominent. So at this stage i'm leaning towards N177.
I knew that second one looked familiar. I saw it in person a few years ago when my 150 lived at the same airport. I had completely forgotten about that airplane. Suppose I'm going to have to build one now.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dennis C View Post
I like the flames on the red and black!!

Those colors do not show up well in contrast in the sky, but the plane is large enough to maintain orientation fairly easily when flying close. you can cheat a little on the bottom if you are concerned.

Lots of sanding comming up on the cowl, lots.

covering the front of the cowl was a PITA Ultra Cote wll go around the curves but takes some effort. You could also paint to match. I think that is what Kerry did on his.

Moveing along

Dennis
Yeah I have to say that first one is my favorite so far, and as you say if I find orientation a little hard I can always cheat a little and add something to the lower wing to help.

Yeah the cowl is going to be interesting, though I must say the provision of the mandrels with the ability to bolt mount them and spin using a drill is seriously cool and will take heaps of effort out of the whole process. Currently for all my sanding I have a 16" long piece of Aluminium "T" section that I have a piece of sandpaper glued onto with contact adhesive and it's worked an absolute treat. The balsa plane has helped a heap too.

It's the fibreglassing i'm not looking forward too, mainly because I hate the itching that follows. What do you think about using something like this just to be different and save abit of weight. It'll still itch once sanded. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12898

Yeah, I've been wondering about the whole covering of the cowl, especially since I was thinking of getting someone like BandE Graphics to make up the flames along with the checker wing tips etc.

I was thinking about using Solarfilm, do you think i'd get it around the curves required?
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 12:52 AM
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I knew that second one looked familiar. I saw it in person a few years ago when my 150 lived at the same airport. I had completely forgotten about that airplane. Suppose I'm going to have to build one now.
Yep definitely need to build one! I've had a couple head scratching moments during the build but nothing which a bit of re going over the instructions and dry fitting a few parts didn't sort out.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 12:54 AM
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Oh I have completed some more work but haven't taken any photos yet but basically I've shaped all the rear area, I just need to add the filler around the stab slot and the rear is done. I've almost finished the belly hatch too.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Luke

I would use 60 grit sand paper to start on the cowl , just fold over a piece and hold it in your hand so it will match the contour of the cowl. When you get it rough shaped to where the laser rings are almost gone then you can finish with finer paper. Use the sanding block at the very end if you need to.

With the drill mandrell leave a couple inches sticking out the front and hold it against something to stableize it. Makes a simple lathe, and you can get the cowl perfectly round.

I used 1/2 oz fiperglass cloth and poly urithane varnish that I got at the hardware store to apply the cloth. Water based will work and is easy to clean up. It mostly just keeps the balsa from cracking and provides minor? structural strength.

I think this plane is way to large for solar film, it is very spongy over larger open aerias, I have used it on many of my smaller models.

Monocote does not have much stretch or shrink.

The Ultra cote will stretch and shrink better than any , IMHO, and with some patience and a little effort works very well. I covered the front first, I did the top half in one piece and then the bottom half. used pieces large enough to give me a hold all the way around with out burning my fingers, a lot of pulling and I got it down with no wrinkles. would be much easier to do it in 4 pieces, but then you would have more seams. They could be covered with your flames.

After the front was finished then I covered the back with just a 1/4" overlap

Dennis
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Luke

I would use 60 grit sand paper to start on the cowl , just fold over a piece and hold it in your hand so it will match the contour of the cowl. When you get it rough shaped to where the laser rings are almost gone then you can finish with finer paper. Use the sanding block at the very end if you need to.

With the drill mandrell leave a couple inches sticking out the front and hold it against something to stableize it. Makes a simple lathe, and you can get the cowl perfectly round.

All sounds easy enough.

I used 1/2 oz fiperglass cloth and poly urithane varnish that I got at the hardware store to apply the cloth. Water based will work and is easy to clean up. It mostly just keeps the balsa from cracking and provides minor? structural strength.

So you didn't use any resin? I've got plenty of resin lying around which is why I ask, though I do need to pick up some lighter cloth.

I think this plane is way to large for solar film, it is very spongy over larger open aerias, I have used it on many of my smaller models.

Monocote does not have much stretch or shrink.

The Ultra cote will stretch and shrink better than any , IMHO, and with some patience and a little effort works very well. I covered the front first, I did the top half in one piece and then the bottom half. used pieces large enough to give me a hold all the way around with out burning my fingers, a lot of pulling and I got it down with no wrinkles. would be much easier to do it in 4 pieces, but then you would have more seams. They could be covered with your flames.

After the front was finished then I covered the back with just a 1/4" overlap

Dennis
Ok, I thought I saw it mentioned somewhere about Solarfilm being used, must've been on one your smaller ones that I saw that. Yeah I used Ultracote on the last model I built and it is very nice to use and seems to be able to just keep on shrinking.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Well Luke, I can't decide which one of those two color schemes I like best. I guess that just means you will have to build two of them... . Dennis you better get another one boxed up!

As for covering the cowl, Dennis is correct in that I fiber- glassed mine and then painted it. Having the checkerboard going around the cowl it was just much much easier than covering, anyway for me.

Dennis do the plans/instructions show or include the belly removable panel having the extension to cover the landing gear with the quick release as I did with mine and the quick pin release for the top cowl?

Luke it looks like it is coming along very nicely. It has been fun to follow along with your build. Thanks for taking the time to take photos and sharing them with us. Keep up the great work.
Kerry
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 07:18 AM
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Well here is a pic showing my progress of the last couple days. Not as much progress as I'd hoped but was feeling a bit out of sorts one day so didn't do any work. Anyway work completed is lower hatch, and all the filller pieces fitted around the rear fuselage and shaped, just need to sand the stab surround parts the others have been done. And tonight I stacked and glued up the cowl nose rings. The actual rear cowl halves I completed right back at the beginning of the build not sure if I posted any pics.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 06:20 AM
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That CF strip showed up today Dennis.



Quote:
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Well Luke, I can't decide which one of those two color schemes I like best. I guess that just means you will have to build two of them... . Dennis you better get another one boxed up!
I think my wife would kill me if another box that big showed up anytime soon, lol!

Unfortunately i'm a terrible painter, i'm not bad with fibreglass but absolutely terrible with a paint can or brush for that matter in my hand.

Take it your an A&P Kerry? I'm an AME (aircraft maintenance engineer) myself which is the fancy name they give aircraft mechanics in Australia. Although I got out of Aviation a couple years back and now work as a Gas Pipeline Controller. But when I was in aviation I worked on F111's, 707's and 737 AEW&C.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Yes I am an A&P although they refer to us now as a "aircraft technician" . I work for the airlines on Boing 737, Airbus 319,320's, CRJ 700, Q400.

I don't know if it is to late for you but on your belly hatch if you extend the balsa sheeting fwd it will fit just inside the lower cowl and you can cut slots for the gear. It finishes the belly off nicely rather than having the landing gear attachment showing. It still allows you to remove the hatch. That is what I ment when asking Dennis about if he had added that to the plans. I don't remember if I took any photos of that on my build or not. if you like I can take some photos of what I am talking about.
Kerry
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 06:20 AM
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I don't know if it is to late for you but on your belly hatch if you extend the balsa sheeting fwd it will fit just inside the lower cowl and you can cut slots for the gear. It finishes the belly off nicely rather than having the landing gear attachment showing. It still allows you to remove the hatch. That is what I ment when asking Dennis about if he had added that to the plans. I don't remember if I took any photos of that on my build or not. if you like I can take some photos of what I am talking about.
Kerry
Yeah, I think I saw some pics of what you did earlier in this thread. Should be easy enough to modify the hatch to do what you mention.

I haven't done any other work on the structure as I need to to do the sanding on the cowl and that is definitely an outside on the lawn job and it's been raining pretty constant the last couple days. We had some sunshine today but I was at the flying club getting in some flights on my PA Bandit.

Dennis do you think there would be any benefit to instead of running the carbon strip along the aft edge of the stab to instead cut a slit along the TE strip a bit futher forward? That way the the strip is imbedded into the TE stock rather than just attached to the aft of it, would also mean I don't need to try and insert hinges through it. See the photo I grabbed out of the SA Edge 540 thread for an example of what I mean but in the TE instead.
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