Originally Posted by murdnunoc

Switch,
What's your CG look like? Stykers with more than stock power like to run with the center of gravity forward of the CG dimples located in the fuselage hand grips. They'll fly with the CG pretty much as far forward as you put it, but controls become mushier as you move it foward. 3/8" - 1/2" forward of the factory location should be a good location for your CG. You can shift batteries (cut some foam if it's in the way) to achieve your target CG.

Once CG is nailed down, if you still have issues with the plane climbing under WOT, you can adjust the thrust angle like you suspected you needed to. If it's climbing under power, the motor needs to be tilted back a little more so that the thrustline is pointed farther up. To do this on the CustomRC mount, you can add a 3mm washer to each of the front two mounting screws between the top fuselage bracket and the motor mount piece.

Another thing to look at is whether your fuselage has developed a "banana" shape with use. I forget how old your airframe is and whether you have a carbon rod going front to back. Old airframes tend to curl up around the nose/battery area and this will lead to climbing with increased airspeed. If yours is curled, you can put it over your knee and bend it back, and install a carbon tube going straight down the center of the fuselage to straighten it up and hold it there.

Thanks again for your help.... With my 4s 3000mah 40c battery installed the planes is nose heavy but I did forget to check that prior to the flight. The airframe was brand new but it did suffer a failed hand launch attempt on the first try which damaged just the nose in an upward direction which could have caused the lifting under WOT. The nose repair has already been corrected so I guess I will see the next time out... Thanks for the new directions and ideas to inspect before I start playing with my thrust line.

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Notar,
I suspect this issue is related to timing and not because the batteries are sagging under load and tripping the LVC. (If it was the LVC you wouldn't get the chirping noise). Consequently before you spend any money, I suggest you try different timing settings on your ESC to see if that will rectify the problem first.

Regards
Peter
__________________________________________________ _________

Thanks Peter M, I will try that.

Notar,
I agree with Peter that LVC doesn't normally make a chirping noise. You are probably close to their 52A rating or maybe into their burst range, but they aren't likely sagging that far anyway.

I've heard chirping/squealing come from the following:

1. Loose/broken bullet connector or bad solder joint in the motor/ESC connection. Strip the shrink tubing off and visually check/wiggle the connectors. Resoldering the joints will make sure they're good.

2. Shaft slipping inside the magnets inside the motor. Not likely on a 4 pole motor, but it can happen.

3. ESC timing problems. Should likely be set for Low timing on your 4 pole motor, but you can experiment with Medium after you check the solder joints in the bullets.

4. Broken or burned motor wire inside the motor. Hope that's not it! You can check with a multimeter by setting for Ohms or continuity test and touching one probe to the motor's can and the other to each of the three motor bullets. If any of them comes up with zero resistance, there's a short in the motor caused by either a burned or broken wire.

Check the bullets first, then mess with ESC timing. The other two problems will require motor repair or replacement. I may have missed a cause, but that's all I can think of.

Are you able to get the motor making the sound on video? Might help if we can all hear it, and maybe someone can nail it without further diagnostic effort.

Good luck...

EDIT: One thing I just remembered after re-reading.
I did have an issue like you experienced on that exact motor with a Hobbywing 80A ESC. For mine, the motor would start fine, but then on advancing the throttle, it would stutter and sometimes make it to full throttle, and other times just keep stuttering. It did the same thing on a Hobbywing 60A ESC. I then tried running the motor on a Castle ESC, and then a Tower Pro 40A that it's currently running on and it ran with no problems.

First, check the bullet connectors. If they're good, see if it chirps with no prop on it. If it still chirps and the bullets are well soldered, there may be just an incompatibility issue with the Hobbywing ESC's for some reason.

Do you have any other brand ESC that's 40+A you can try running on it?

Does anyone know where you can buy the black elevons? All I can find is the grey ones

almost done building up my stryker it is equipped with a 3300kv outrunner motor on a custom rc mount, a phoenix 45, and will be using turnigy 2200 3s 30c lipos, need to know what size prop will work the best... and what kind of speeds should i expect..

Hi Guys

Was hoping someone could post some pictures of a spectrum 6200 rx mounted on stryker as just purchased a dx7 and was not sure of best postioning on stryker of both parts of 6200 rx

Thanks Guys for any help.

samste,

Your DX7 came with AR7000 or AR6200.

If AR6200, then which package did you buy?



Gryphon

Originally Posted by GryphonRCU

samste,

Your DX7 came with AR7000 or AR6200.

If AR6200, then which package did you buy?
Gryphon

The AR7000 came with Tx plus 4 servos, and i ordered as well several AR6200

Does anyone use a 3 cell lipo for battery pack or is this a no no

Thanks

Samste

Thanks guys, I hope you enjoyed my Stryker's miracle landing video. A few corrections: I was using an APC 7x5 Sport (Gas or Nitro) propeller on that flight and not an APC 7x5E prop and the receiver on the Stryker is NOT a 6200, but a 6110 DSM2 one. I have not yet found the cause of the ~3-5 second complete control lockout.

I did some brief static testing with the APC 7x9 Sport prop and although I have seen higher static thrust before, the customrcparts motor mount was almost hot where the Turnigy 2836-2350 K/V motor was! I did not take any Amp readings, but it must have been sucking Amps. That prop probably won't unload until very high speeds??? For safety on 5S nano-phosphate, tonight's flight will be made with a Master Airscrew 7x6, until I can get some accurate Amp draw readings. At least the prop doesn't slip anymore.

Murdnunoc and all, Here is a video that has the chirping. It chirps and cuts out and if I lower the throttle it recovers and keeps running.

I actually lost the plane on saturday when it went into a death spiral, I think from a receiver brownout. I checked the solder joints on the brand new hobbywing 100 amp esc before flying. It still could have been the cause but I pulled hard on the wires to chech at least. It launched fine and flew two curcuits around the field. I was deliberately pushing up the throttle when it cut out and dived into the ground in a jungle on the other side of the Kokosing river. Very hard to get to.

This video is from another flight week before I lost the plane. It has the funny noise.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGcMZ679hOw

Originally Posted by NOTAR 600

Murdnunoc and all, Here is a video that has the chirping. It chirps and cuts out and if I lower the throttle it recovers and keeps running.

I actually lost the plane on saturday when it went into a death spiral, I think from a receiver brownout. I checked the solder joints on the brand new hobbywing 100 amp esc before flying. It still could have been the cause but I pulled hard on the wires to chech at least. It launched fine and flew two curcuits around the field. I was deliberately pushing up the throttle when it cut out and dived into the ground in a jungle on the other side of the Kokosing river. Very hard to get to.

This video is from another flight week before I lost the plane. It has the funny noise.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGcMZ679hOw

I experience that same kind of "hickup" with one of my ARC's. ////i have no idea what it is. It's been doing it for months on different ESC's.

Originally Posted by murdnunoc

To do this on the CustomRC mount, you can add a 3mm washer to each of the front two mounting screws between the top fuselage bracket and the motor mount piece.

JMHO,
But I believe it is WAY better to crush some foam at the rear rather than add anything under the Custom RC Parts mount. You will be adding increased drag by sticking the front part of the mount up above the fuse foam.

Originally Posted by murdnunoc

You can check with a multimeter by setting for Ohms or continuity test and touching one probe to the motor's can and the other to each of the three motor bullets. If any of them comes up with zero resistance, there's a short in the motor caused by either a burned or broken wire.

I would look at the bullets like you said first, great call Murd, but there is something amiss on the rest of it, I have had a bad battery do that and a bad ESC do that as well


1. Test any one lead to the can. One probe from the meter on the can, one probe from the meter on one motor wire. If you get continuity, you have a short.

2. Test any two leads, lead to lead and you should have continuity. If you DONT have continuity lead to lead, then you have a broken wire. Check 3 different configurations............. A to B, B to C, and A to C.

There should be NO continuity from any lead to the can, and each lead to lead should have continuity

Originally Posted by ff954

almost done building up my stryker it is equipped with a 3300kv outrunner motor on a custom rc mount, a phoenix 45, and will be using turnigy 2200 3s 30c lipos, need to know what size prop will work the best... and what kind of speeds should i expect..

Can you be more specific about your motor selection ?
We need motor manufacturer, motor weight, motor resistance, motor size, etc