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Old Jun 25, 2010, 04:22 AM
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GryphonRCU's Avatar
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moparmyway,

Are you referring to your pic with 4 cells equaling 10S-5000 ???

No this is a new pic.




***However I do know you have double the number of same 5000 cells, and countless other packs with some of them also being different 5000's.


I will call you from the hardware store regarding that other thing.


Gryphon
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 07:58 AM
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Grand Rapids, MI
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What size bullet connectors do I need to solder on from my ICE 100A ESC to the motor?
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 08:02 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
__________________

murdnunoc,

Were you talking about these 45-90C packs in the pic below?

__________________


***To those of you who run a male and a female on packs: Which one do you put on positive and which one do you put on negative.

I believe it makes no difference and we have to pick a personal convention and stick to it.

Are you running the following on "[SIZE="3"][B]BATTERY"


Gryphon
Gryphon,
Nah, I was pointing to the 45-90C that HobbyCity just released. Hopefully they can at least come within striking distance of the TP's.
BTW, that's a very beautiful picture
I predict you (and your neighbors) not getting a whole lot of sleep for the next few weeks! Have fun with your new toys

------------------

On the bullets:
I run my 6mm bullet connectors like this on the battery:

Positive lead: FEMALE
Negative lead: MALE

Looks like the exact opposite of how Mopar does it.
I could have sworn that I saw in a pic that he did it like I'm running mine now, but I guess I got mixed up in the pic I saw and was looking at an ESC or data logger's wires instead of the battery.

I agree with Mopar that it doesn't make any difference, electrically or from a safety standpoint, which way the connectors are hooked. The only connector that I know of that has an established convention like this is the Micro Deans connectors, which state that the positive lead is Male and negative is Female.

I'd love to get a convention set for the exact reasons you said, Gryphon. I may be a little too far in to switch up all my connectors now, though. But if there's a strong leaning toward doing it with Positive Male and Nagative Female, I might just make a night of resoldering for the sake of continuity of setups.
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Hornetnz View Post
What size bullet connectors do I need to solder on from my ICE 100A ESC to the motor?
It'll depend on how much power you want to run, now and in the future.
Under 100A - 4mm
100+A - 6mm (Neu) or 6.5mm (Castle Creations)

I think the 6mm are a little more common than the 6.5mm

Generally whatever size comes on the motor you plan on running will be your minimum size.

Do you plan on sticking with one motor/ESC setup, or will motors and ESCs be switched in and out with each other? If you do a lot of swapping, it makes it immensely easier to have all your bullets the same size. So if you already have a pile of motors/ESCs with 4mm on them, makes sense to stick with 4mm.
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 04:29 PM
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OK, it's official, my Stryker is like a cat in that it has 9 lives! I can't make this up. It wasn't caught on video, but I had another flyer witness it happen and saw the after effects on the plane...

I made a full WOT level pass about 60-70 feet off of the ground at about 90 or so mph and the plane started to roll left...HARD! I was like, what the...???? I immediately held-in right aileron to try and keep the wings level, but it worked only so much. I had to eventually cut the power to slow down. As I flew past the field, the plane was making some weird noises. I decided to listen to that little voice in my head and land and not to continue to fly, even though I was leaning that way. After I landed, me and a fellow flyer were shocked to see that the right motor mount bolt had FALLEN OUT OF THE PLANE and ONLY one bolt was holding the top mount on! The motor mount had pivoted like a thrust vectoring unit! The APC 7x5E prop was damaged from hitting only the Z-Foam as best as I could tell. That's an all composite prop that was damaged from only hitting foam! That shows just how much force was behind that spinning prop.

I have the customrcparts Stryker mount and I held the motor mount in with only two bolts, one on the left and one on the right, where the machined heads were on the bottom of the plane. I used NO locktite or thread lock to help keep the bolts from coming loose. I will not make that mistake again, ever. I have secured the bolts in place with blue locktite AND I will be putting fibre glass strapping tape over the bolts (on the bottom of the plane) so that, even if they come loose, they cannot fall out!

My pain is your gain I am sure more is to come from my "circus flying"...
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 04:39 PM
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Interesting anti-slip prop adapter mechanism

OK, what do you guys think? This is a weird one. Then again, I am little off myself to begin with

I got the APC (mad pitch) props in from Tower Hobbies this week, the 7x6, 7x8 and even APC 7x9 Sport Gas props. I use a HobbyCity 4mm "collet-style" prop adapter with a machined aluminum spinner to hold my props on the Turnigy 2836-2350 K/V 4mm shaft outrunner motor. BUT, as my bad luck would have it, the stupid prop adapter has a shiny, smooth backplate such that, these gas props only slip around it and I cannot tighten it down...at all! I spent a lot of time last night fiddling with the thing. My last ditch effort was to use (don't laugh) a piece of ~320 grit sandpaper cut into a neat rectangle and folded over between the prop adapter's backplate and the APC 7x9 gas prop's front face, since it is a tractor prop. It tightened down immediately! It appears to be holding VERY well and in fact, I have performed static WOT tests and I didn't see any slipping.
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 04:50 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
OK, it's official, my Stryker is like a cat in that it has 9 lives! I can't make this up. It wasn't caught on video, but I had another flyer witness it happen and saw the after effects on the plane...

I made a full WOT level pass about 60-70 feet off of the ground at about 90 or so mph and the plane started to roll left...HARD! I was like, what the...???? I immediately held-in right aileron to try and keep the wings level, but it worked only so much. I had to eventually cut the power to slow down. As I flew past the field, the plane was making some weird noises. I decided to listen to that little voice in my head and land and not to continue to fly, even though I was leaning that way. After I landed, me and a fellow flyer were shocked to see that the right motor mount bolt had FALLEN OUT OF THE PLANE and ONLY one bolt was holding the top mount on! The motor mount had pivoted like a thrust vectoring unit! The APC 7x5E prop was damaged from hitting only the Z-Foam as best as I could tell. That's an all composite prop that was damaged from only hitting foam! That shows just how much force was behind that spinning prop.

I have the customrcparts Stryker mount and I held the motor mount in with only two bolts, one on the left and one on the right, where the machined heads were on the bottom of the plane. I used NO locktite or thread lock to help keep the bolts from coming loose. I will not make that mistake again, ever. I have secured the bolts in place with blue locktite AND I will be putting fibre glass strapping tape over the bolts (on the bottom of the plane) so that, even if they come loose, they cannot fall out!

My pain is your gain I am sure more is to come from my "circus flying"...
Usually the bolts will only loosen when there is not enough foam crushed.

Blue loctite will help for sure, however, I havent needed any loctite on any of the 6 Custom RC Parts mount assemblies that I have.

I wonder if the damaged prop was from the bolts when you lost them ??
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 04:52 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
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New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
OK, what do you guys think? This is a weird one. Then again, I am little off myself to begin with

I got the APC (mad pitch) props in from Tower Hobbies this week, the 7x6, 7x8 and even APC 7x9 Sport Gas props. I use a HobbyCity 4mm "collet-style" prop adapter with a machined aluminum spinner to hold my props on the Turnigy 2836-2350 K/V 4mm shaft outrunner motor. BUT, as my bad luck would have it, the stupid prop adapter has a shiny, smooth backplate such that, these gas props only slip around it and I cannot tighten it down...at all! I spent a lot of time last night fiddling with the thing. My last ditch effort was to use (don't laugh) a piece of ~320 grit sandpaper cut into a neat rectangle and folded over between the prop adapter's backplate and the APC 7x9 gas prop's front face, since it is a tractor prop. It tightened down immediately! It appears to be holding VERY well and in fact, I have performed static WOT tests and I didn't see any slipping.
Nice fix.
May I ask how you balanced that assembly with the sandpaper and all ?

It might help Dudes to get the E-Flite "collet style" prop adapters. They have the raised surface for gripping the prop.
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 05:10 PM
Voltage is LiFe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Usually the bolts will only loosen when there is not enough foam crushed.

Blue loctite will help for sure, however, I havent needed any loctite on any of the 6 Custom RC Parts mount assemblies that I have.

I wonder if the damaged prop was from the bolts when you lost them ??

What's going on. Yeah, the side that had the bolt fall out foam is a little more crushed than the left side (the good side). There is a small gap on the right side (the side that had the bolt fall out if facing the rear of the plane) between the bottom mount plate and the machined 28mm motor mount. The bolt must have come loose, since I was too lazy to tighten it (I actually thought about this before flying, but decided stupidly against it; think -> lazy). So, I have taken a thin piece of non-crushable plastic sheet and wedged it in between the mount and the bottom plate, tightened the bolt back on, while placing blue locktite onto the threads AND I will put tape over the machined heads just in case they get any stupid ideas when I am up around 100 mph...

You are correct about the prop being damaged by the bolt. At the prop's RPM, the more I think about it, it fell out and possibly got sucked into the fast spinning prop due to the pressure differential. One thing is for sure though, the motor mount did indeed pivot due to the prop's torque forces and cut a near perfect chunk out of the Z-Foam on the base of the left vertical stabilizer's bottom area.
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 05:15 PM
Voltage is LiFe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Nice fix.
May I ask how you balanced that assembly with the sandpaper and all ?

It might help Dudes to get the E-Flite "collet style" prop adapters. They have the raised surface for gripping the prop.
The piece of sandpaper can be very small and in fact, need not be too much beyond the diameter of the prop's hub. That is all that is needed. Granted, my static tests were done with only a 4S nano-phosphate pack, but the prop spun pretty fast with very smooth operation; that is, little vibration. I wish I had an E-Flite adapter lying around, but I needed a fix with the parts I had around -> with the quickness
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 05:51 PM
Voltage is LiFe
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
OK, so where is the video link ????
I gotta see this !!!!!!!!
You asked for it, you got it. Fairly poor video quality, I apologize, but that is about the best that I can do with the $11 key chain video camera. After the flight, I determined that the slow left roll was from the key chain video camera mounted on the nose! The Stryker did not seem to care for that camera much.

ParkZone Stryker loss of control and miracle landing (2 min 12 sec)
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 07:07 PM
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sorry... the end just makes me laugh. awesome belly flop!
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 09:49 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
You asked for it, you got it. Fairly poor video quality, I apologize, but that is about the best that I can do with the $11 key chain video camera. After the flight, I determined that the slow left roll was from the key chain video camera mounted on the nose! The Stryker did not seem to care for that camera much.
LMAO !!
Thats the BEST "worst" thing that I ever watched on video. What a way to land after a disaster in the air !!!!

GREAT VIDEO !!!!!
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Old Jun 26, 2010, 10:14 PM
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Novastar,

Great video! The fall actually made me tense up, and I sighed with relief after the "gentle" Plop!

I have a keychain cam too and I think the video quality is good for what it is, a 1 ounce video camera that can be velcroed on to any plane in seconds. I let my friends stick it on theirs for flights too, its great.
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Old Jun 27, 2010, 12:06 AM
Not again!!!!!!!
Switch2403's Avatar
Dallas, Texas
Joined Apr 2010
103 Posts
I'm needing a little help and opinions from you guys.

I finally was able to maiden my 4s stryker this weekend and i wasn't happy with the controls. I am using the midwestern elevons, 2-56 control rods, metal clevises, and Kids tape hinge. With the throttle down the stryker was flying straight and level but under WOT it wants to fly straight up and roll to the right. I am sure this has got to do with my thrust lines but how do I shim the customRC mount and which direction? When at WOT I was having to fly with my elevators all the way down to keep it flying level but my ailerons was very sensitive.
I will adjust my rods and get more throw from my elevators and turn down my ailerons with my controller but I am still worried about it wanting to climb straight up and roll right at WOT. Any more suggestions?
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