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Old Jun 24, 2010, 02:15 PM
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
Well it happened folks, as best as I can tell, last night I had a "signal lockout" with my Spektrum DX6i and AR6200 receiver. The funny thing was, I caught it all on video, since I had velcroed one of those ~$10 Ebay key chain video cameras to the nose of my Stryker. I made a very high climb with it and I cut the power, rolled over and then it was lights-out from there. It was all caught on video! The plane went into about a 50-60 degree dive with a slow left roll and about 1/2 throttle and there wasn't a bloody thing I could do about it. The video captured from the nose showed the ground come rushing up. About 15-20 feet above the ground the plane went into immediate uncontrolled flight. I am thinking that I finally re-locked with the receiver and my command inputs were too aggressive. Bottom-line, the plane made a nice belly flop landing on the ground and essentially, NOTHING was broken!!! I went home and removed the make shift rudders I added to the plane with bare bones stock vertical stabilizers, removed both rudder servos and she is ready to go again!

The key chain video camera proved its worth as it provided me "telemetry" data onboard that helped me try and solve the loss of control of the plane. I kept playing that part of the video over to see what had happened onboard and what I was doing on the transmitter
Amazing recovery!

Were your receivers blinking? Was it a brown out condition from the extra servos?
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 03:27 PM
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beginner4life's Avatar
United States, MD, Ellicott City
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I got a new fuse for my Stryker, for the elevons am i supposed to buy new ones or remove them from the old plane and put them on?
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 07:31 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6 View Post
I hate to dig up old stuff but i want to discuss the advantage of rotor/stator diameter with regards to "spooling up" and potential to spin larger diameter props.

Most 4 pole inrunners have smaller diameter rotors and smaller inner diameter stators @ somewhere around 14mm and 15.5mm respectively, 6 pole inrunners have 16mm rotors and 17.5 stators respectively.

Keep this in mind when you read this post by our friend Mopar and draw your own conclusions. I know the kv was different on both motors but if we got a hold of a NEU 1110 1.5y we could do a ARC to Neu to MEGA head to head to head data comp.
Boosted,
Keep what in mind when you read about a motor vs motor challenge ???
I certainly dont know what youre driving at, if you "hate to dig up old stuff" then why go through the trouble??????
It all boiled down to motor vs motor
28mm diameter inrunner vs 28mm diameter inrunner..........no mirrors, same battery, same prop, same ESC, same plane, same day, same hour, same wind or lack there of, same sun, same kaflubber valve.......................same everything but a couple of different motors.

I have compared MEGA vs NEU already, and you see what motors I am buying.

Keep in mind, nobody really cares about rotor diameter or stator diameter within a 28mm can, they just care about the performance (and often, price)of that 28mm can. Bolt on a prop, tie down a battery and watch it go...............simple. No need to try to confuse or misguide anyone here, it dont make 2 shorts of any difference about what you want me/us to keep in mind

That particular challenge (MEGA 16-25-2 vs ARC 28-48-1.5) was originated by YOU some many months/years ago.................remember ????

I suppose the outcome wasnt what you wanted to see, other than that, what else is there to keep in mind ?

One day, you shall have an opportunity to get yourself your very first MEGA, after that day, you might see a whole new perspective.
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 07:32 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
Well it happened folks, as best as I can tell, last night I had a "signal lockout" with my Spektrum DX6i and AR6200 receiver. The funny thing was, I caught it all on video, since I had velcroed one of those ~$10 Ebay key chain video cameras to the nose of my Stryker. I made a very high climb with it and I cut the power, rolled over and then it was lights-out from there. It was all caught on video! The plane went into about a 50-60 degree dive with a slow left roll and about 1/2 throttle and there wasn't a bloody thing I could do about it. The video captured from the nose showed the ground come rushing up. About 15-20 feet above the ground the plane went into immediate uncontrolled flight. I am thinking that I finally re-locked with the receiver and my command inputs were too aggressive. Bottom-line, the plane made a nice belly flop landing on the ground and essentially, NOTHING was broken!!! I went home and removed the make shift rudders I added to the plane with bare bones stock vertical stabilizers, removed both rudder servos and she is ready to go again!

The key chain video camera proved its worth as it provided me "telemetry" data onboard that helped me try and solve the loss of control of the plane. I kept playing that part of the video over to see what had happened onboard and what I was doing on the transmitter
OK, so where is the video link ????
I gotta see this !!!!!!!!
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 07:33 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beginner4life View Post
I got a new fuse for my Stryker, for the elevons am i supposed to buy new ones or remove them from the old plane and put them on?
I would just get new ones for a few $$$ (if you wont be installing balsa elevons)
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 07:45 PM
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United States, MD, Ellicott City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
I would just get new ones for a few $$$ (if you wont be installing balsa elevons)
okay thanks.

Is there any difference?

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ1232

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ1233
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 07:51 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
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Originally Posted by beginner4life View Post
The first ones do NOT have the hinges pictured
The second ones do

IMHO, look for the black elevons from the F27C, they are stiffer than any grey ones.
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 08:07 PM
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the black ones are sold out everywhere. Is it a large difference?
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 08:57 PM
Voltage is LiFe
novastar's Avatar
US East Coast
Joined Aug 2007
638 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbucher View Post
Amazing recovery!

Were your receivers blinking? Was it a brown out condition from the extra servos?
CJ, very good question. I am not 100% sure, unfortunately, if it was a brown out. I do know when a fellow flyer walked over to my model and picked it up and brought it back to me, the plane's controls responded normally. I always check before I launch it to make sure that the AR6200 is a solid Amber colour and all controls are functioning normally.

I can tell you it was a weird flight. Before I attempted the climb, I made a WOT level pass across the field. My Stryker was up around 90 or so mph. It flew through a flock of birds flying across the field, perpendicular to my flight path. It looked insane. The Stryker looked like a projectile. I was too fast to try and maneuver out of their way, so I just made a straight vector right through their path hoping that I would not hit these birds

It is really strange how the plane did not fly nose into the ground at about 50 or so mph. It acted like it deployed a parachute about 20 feet AGL to slow it down, which caused it to go into very erratic flight which resulted in a belly flop landing! I must have had help from above
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
OK, so where is the video link ????
I gotta see this !!!!!!!!
You really want to see this! It is rough I will need to edit some of it
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Old Jun 24, 2010, 10:26 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,830 Posts
ARC 36-55-1.5 Bench Tests

All done with a Turnigy 4S 3300mah 30C

APC 8x6 Gas
Amps: 101
Watts: 1496

APC 7x5 Gas
Amps: 68
Watts: 1058

APC 7x6E
Amps: 89
Watts: 1323

APC 7x6 Gas
Amps:75
Watts 1131

Flew the 7x6 gas prop today. Flew very well with all of that air flow over motor. Came down luke warm. Looking at 5S for tomorrow.
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 01:13 AM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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johnnyrocco123,

Good work on your testing.


I would like to make the following suggestion for your consideration:

Consider using a tachometer.
A tach reading at same time will make your Wattmeter readings much more useful.
If will also allow you to see a motorís relative efficiency.


A tachometer could be bought fairly cheaply...even under $20...most all of them will measure to 32,000 RPM but I know hobby city has a trick one for cheap and it is good to around 60,000 RPM or so.

Dedicated Data loggers and some ESC's internal loggers can get you the RPM too....this method is very accurate and MUCH easier.


Keep up the good work,

Gryphon
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by murdnunoc View Post
THEY'RE HERE!!!!

Finally, some 45-90C power for the budget minded.

3S 2650mah and 3S 4000mah available right now, but expect some 2S, 4S and 6S packs real quick in the same mah cells.

Ender707 and TheKid, since you guys took the hit by buying the 40C packs to usher in the 45C, I guess I'll have to sacrifice and get a couple of these to test out and see if they're up to snuff.

__________________

murdnunoc,

Were you talking about these 45-90C packs in the pic below?

__________________

Seriously though, I have a question for everyone:

We can install bullets by putting either (2) females on the battery packs (risk of switching wires during connection and frying something, lower risk during transporting), or putting one male and one female on a battery to make running series connections easier.

***To those of you who run a male and a female on packs: Which one do you put on positive and which one do you put on negative.

I believe it makes no difference and we have to pick a personal convention and stick to it.

Well I want to convert over from (2) female setup to male/female setup and I rather match some of my friends in case we ever meet or share/swap ESCs or data loggers etc...(I do have adapters).
Reason for conversion is that I do not want to run series adapters...I want direct plug from battery to battery.

In particular I want to hear from Moparmyway, Stryker Flyer, murdnunoc besides seeing which convention other friends used.

Are you running the following on "BATTERY"

Negative: Male
Positive: Female


Or the following on "BATTERY"

Negative: Female
Positive: Male


Folks, Post or PM me

Thank you in advance,

Gryphon
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Last edited by GryphonRCU; Jun 25, 2010 at 03:51 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 03:57 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by novastar View Post
You really want to see this! It is rough I will need to edit some of it
It CANT possibly be any worse than my videos !!!!
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Old Jun 25, 2010, 04:01 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
***To those of you who run a male and a female on packs: Which one do you put on positive and which one do you put on negative.

I believe it makes no difference and we have to pick a personal convention and stick to it.

Gryphon
I set mine up like this

On the BATTERY..........the RED (positive) is MALE
On the battery............the black (negative) is FEMALE

I run 6.5mm bullets, but I do have some custom adapters already made so I can just plug in 6.5mm to 6mm in about 2 seconds.

It does NOT make any difference whatsoever which way you install the male or the female. Each connection will have a male and a female, regardless of the direction the bullets face, so they will allways have equal resistances (IF YOU soldered correctly).

How did you get into my computer and take some of my battery pictures ?
OR
How did you get into my house and take pictures of my batteries ?
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