Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

I would like to see a pic of the recommended cf setup without glassing (specific positioning of left/right cf). I am hell bent on not glassing but I am also determined to hit 140-150mph when I get a build that can handle it. My current 4S stryker flutters like crazy and it's at 120mph. A-frame of 5.3mm CF, 2 coats of polycrylic and it looks and sounds like it is struggling to stay together. Pisses me off!!!!!

There is ALOT of speed in the airframe, (I do NOT mean cutting the brakes off and reducing the wing or the fuse profile) and you MUST take every effort to build a straight and stiff frame. Things change when you get up around 140-150 and you really MUST pay attention to every detail as you go along in your speed quest. There is NO easy answer to your frustrations, just more trials and errors. If it sounds like it is struggling to stay together, it probably is and you should change your airframe to alleviate those sounds !!!

There are plenty of airframe pictures to see, and TONS of speed secrets just waiting for your eyes.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1164182

Good job Mopar. Those lighter builds are certainly less stressful as I can imagine than the lightning fast ones you fly. It's cool to see more parts of the airfield you fly at.

Went flying with the Stryker up at the park by me last night and it was fun. After flying the Stryker now for sometime, I have noticed two aerodynamic qualities about it in my experimentation:

1.) When my Stryker gets close to stalling in a low airspeed scenario, the wings will start to shake; that is, uncommanded right/left continuous wing dips occur until I can build up more airspeed to leave the stall regime

2.) High rates of aileron roll in steep climbs at lower airspeeds can lead to a "death spiral" to the ground

I experienced case 2 last night. Luckily, I was "several mistakes high". The airplane went into a fast, sustained, near vertical plunge to the ground. I thought to myself...this isn't good. I did not panic though and instinctively moved the throttle from idle to 1/2 throttle, while at the same time gently commanding up elevator. The plane almost instantly responded to the control inputs, straightened-out and I flew off in a gentle right turn.

I should note that I do NOT fly with any expo and I have my control linkages for max rates and my transmitter end points for near max throws. With these settings, even with a fairly heavy battery pack, the Stryker rolls and loops on a dime

cdebaca, I'm envious of your mountain vista!

Nice vids by you and mopar.

Hey Murd, I was looking at the battery weights and if (when) I would do 6s, I might as well get a couple new batteries and save some weight. I am going to start with my 2 TP 2s 3750 30C. I will have to wittle out some foam but is actually going to be a easier fit than my other batts.
I was thinking of doing the whole bottom with some lightweight carbon cloth but to really make it stiff, both sides should be done. So, I think I'll go with some carbon tubes as suggested somewhere on a thread. I am not a tape guy, so unless hell freezes over, I won't be using any.
I am also planning to sew my elevons on with kevlar thread, it really make for a smooth operating and tight hinge. No slop. This means that I will have to glass the trailing edge of the wing about an inch or so and drill the holes for sewing but I can guarantee the elevons won't be going anywhere, regardless of speed. They did this in the old days and always worked great!

More to come...

JOhn the original popcorn guy

Originally Posted by murdnunoc

Wizzinbyya,
For a really fun 4S setup, you could run your pair of 2S 3850 batteries with a series adapter for a 4S 3850 setup.

Or if you're into serious RPM, run the 3S 2500mah pair in series and your Neu could be run on 6S if you keep the prop small, like the 6x4 APC Sport that CK suggested. It'll take every bit of that 6" prop's aerodynamic power to push the STryker over 130mph, but you might make it. 6.5" and 7" props really have an easier time overcoming the Stryker's drag at higher speeds.

The best setup will always depend on what kind of flying you like to do and how hard you want to push your equipment.

4S lets you run your current batteries and gives a great high performance sport flyer with awesome climbing.

5S will be your best speed with a good balance of pitch speed for drag race runs and decent thrust for launches and climbing.

6S lets you run current batteries with good speed and tons of fun noise!

Thanks for the advise Mopar.I have programed the esc for brake however the setup was designed for a helicopter,so for some reason the motor wont cut off"unless" I hold the stick down.I have tried everything so I just deal with it the way it is.
Hornetz.
Thanks for the comments it's good to hear some positive feed back.

Originally Posted by cdebaca

Thanks for the advise Mopar.I have programed the esc for brake however the setup was designed for a helicopter,so for some reason the motor wont cut off"unless" I hold the stick down.I have tried everything so I just deal with it the way it is.
Hornetz.

Hmmnnnn...........
Is there any chance I could ask you to post your transmitter type ?
What receiver you are using ?
What ESC do you have on it now ?

cdebaca,

Is your throttle trim lever lowered all the way down?

Make sure that it is.



Gryphon

High Tech flash 5
high tech rec
esc not known came with the motor.
Yes trim all down.
Like I said I tried everything.It's ok the way it is I will probably end up throwing a mega in there anyway I just wanted to use this motor cause,well it was free..

Anyone have a link to purchasing the Balsa elevon stock?

Mopar:
Been watching your 185mph video and it's waaaay cool!!!
You are only a couple of mph's short of reaching 300 km/h (186,411 mph) which is a major thing here in the metric hemisphere. I know you'll be there soon and keep us posted

subscribed.

Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

Anyone have a link to purchasing the Balsa elevon stock?

Hey Johnny, here is a link to the manufacturers catalog but I don't think you can buy it directly from them. It should give you a list of LHS in your area that carriers it. Here is the info that I got from Gryphon back on page 579.

Posted by Gryphon:

Make sure to use correct Elevon material...if your store does not carry them, then you can always sand a taper on the triangular balsa stock.

See bottom right of page 5 on this link:

http://www.midwestproducts.com/pdf/B...ndKits2009.pdf

Part # 6842 is more of a stock replacement...size wise.
Part # 6844 is for heavier strykers in my opinion.

#6813 and #6814 if your hobby store does not carry the Aileron stock....remember to shape the hinge end like other stuff.

Originally Posted by Switch2403

Hey Johnny, here is a link to the manufacturers catalog but I don't think you can buy it directly from them. It should give you a list of LHS in your area that carriers it. Here is the info that I got grom Gryphon back on page 579.

Posted by Gryphon:

Make sure to use correct Elevon material...if your store does not carry them, then you can always sand a taper on the triangular balsa stock.

See bottom right of page 5 on this link:

http://www.midwestproducts.com/pdf/B...ndKits2009.pdf

Part # 6842 is more of a stock replacement...size wise.
Part # 6844 is for heavier strykers in my opinion.

#6813 and #6814 if your hobby store does not carry the Aileron stock....remember to shape the hinge end like other stuff.

Thanks

My Stryker for some night flying. Youtube video, hope this works.

RC Plane with lights. (0 min 19 sec)

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