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Old Jun 06, 2010, 10:20 AM
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NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
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Mopar or Murdnunoc....anyone who is doppler ready, on this video are three good consecutive passes at 3:14, 3:34, and 3:59. Was fighting 15 mph crosswind.

I downloaded wave-o-scope free doppler program. Not learned it yet. Is this good?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4_DZ4WguDs
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Old Jun 06, 2010, 11:23 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
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Yo, Notar, I got:
3:14 90mph
3:34 85mph
3:59 87mph
assuming 80F. Couple mph faster for every 10 deg. warmer, or couple mph slower for every 10 deg. cooler.

WoS is a good program. It got a little tedious for me to snip the video/audio files and then convert them to .wav to load them into the program. But if that's no problem for ya, then the program is fine.
I've started using Hyperdyne Doppler. You can doppler straight from a Youtube video and the program does the converting internally, so it cuts the steps to doppler a speed run by like 200%. PM me if you want info on the Hyperdyne.
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Old Jun 06, 2010, 11:36 AM
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NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Nov 2007
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Murdnunoc, thanks for doing that! So cool to see my speed. Not blistering fast but that plane is not reinforced enough anyway. The plastic elevon clips are looking stressed after 40 flights not to mention how the little bits of z-foam at the trailing edge must be feeling. I'll get with you on the hyperdyne. Much appreciated.
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Old Jun 07, 2010, 12:50 AM
Home of A-10 - Farmingdale NY
boiko's Avatar
United States, NH, Londonderry
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Batteries for stock PNP F-27C Stryker

What range of battery sizes are people running on their otherwise stock (w/stock 30A ESC) PNP F-27C Strykers..?

Thanks,
-mike-
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Old Jun 07, 2010, 04:08 AM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
Joined Sep 2007
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Mike,
A 2200mAh 3 cell is about the largest battery you will fit in a standard Stryker without having to enlarge the fuselage housing or by making the front black plastic cover removeable.

The other advantage of having a couple of 2200's for your Stryker is that they are commonly used size in many other models of about that size. So this size would be my recommendation for a stock Stryker.

But if you already have some slightly larger 3 cell batteries, don't be afraid of getting the knife out to carve the battery housing larger to suit. Don't be worried about the extra weight or change in CG location as these things are remarkable insensitive to this.

As for the smaller end, probably a 1800mAh would be the smallest you would ever want to run but it wouldn't be long before you would be wishing for something larger!

Regards
Peter
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Old Jun 07, 2010, 01:30 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boiko View Post
What range of battery sizes are people running on their otherwise stock (w/stock 30A ESC) PNP F-27C Strykers..?

Thanks,
-mike-
2200-3300mah is good for 3S stock.
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Old Jun 07, 2010, 10:37 PM
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NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
***If the bottom of Elevon is going to stay flat/straight, you can further increase the stiffness of the balsa elevons "several fold" by expoxying some aircraft plywood (such as from Midwest products in your LHS) to the bottom of Aileron stock.
I'm too tired to remember if it is 1/16 or 1/32 stock...hopefully one of the guys will chime in, otherwise remind me and I will go find the material in the other room.
They are sold as 12" wide minimum (smallest and cheapest ply sheets)....good thing is that you can out two shorter pieces end to end and have about the same strength....I use single pieces but a friend of mine likes to use (2) pieces end to end (to save money)...our finished elevons seem to have about the same strength....he proved his case....also I learned this mod from him.
I buy bigger sheets so I can cover the bottom of the 13-14 inch Elevons in one piece.
Gryphon
I am trying to find some 1/32"x6"x24" plywood to cover the full length of balsa elevons. They only need to be 14" but usually sold in 12" or 24". Any clues?
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 01:24 AM
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United States, CA, SF
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NOTAR 600,

The 1/32" Birch Aircraft Plywood that I buy comes in a 12" X 24" sheet (see pics).
MIDWEST Part #5241 (from the picture).

You can buy 12" X 12" and put (2) shorter pieces next to each other...it'll still work great as my friend showed me.



Make sure that the total thickness of finished product (Elevon material plus the thin plywood above) is not thicker than your T.E. (remember that I sand the bottom of balsa Elevons to thin them by 1/32")

I prefer covering the bottom vs. top, because it can help during the landing...especially on rougher surfaces...Balsa is somewhat soft.


See post # 206
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_60..._9/key_/tm.htm


*** This Modification makes the balsa elevons several times more rigid and sure helps at high speeds...and also in longevity.



Make sure to sand/file as needed to match the shape of the Aileron material....most importantly: the bevel side near the hinge line.

Epoxy them together and clean up any excess Epoxy with rags and/or alcohol.

I let it cure and file/clean away any excess dried epoxy.

Afterwards you can always seal the plywood covered balsa elevons by brushing them with Epoxy...it also helps further strengthen the finished elevon.
I cover only the bottom with plywood, but afterwards both sides get epoxied.

**** Have a plan in place before brushing with epoxy...how will you hang it (string, or looped coat hanger, etc)?
Will you brush one end at a time or one face at a time, or...????
Assume you will run out of time during the brushing of epoxy...so you better be quick and you better buy the slowest curing epoxy. I was slow and almost had a disaster on my hands using 30 minute epoxy.
I've heard of 45 minute epoxy but have never seen it.


I assume you will make room for hinges after the above, not before, so no epoxy gets in the hinge slots.


I hope that gave you something to think about…my way is surely not the best way …improve it and tell us/teach us how to do it better.


Gryphon
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 08:37 AM
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NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
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Thanks Gryphon for the plywood info!

On Sunday I launched my new 6S stryker. My wattmeter had a cold solder joint or something and was not working good. Anyway the new plane launched with authority (while being a bit heavier with two 2100mah 3S lipos) and flew perfectly. Can go slow when I want just fine and ripping fast like never before. Nothing got hot. Lipos, ESC, and motor came down cool. Did not run it long or really fast. Noticed wings flexing slowly (not fluttering) like a really big bird flaps wings slow. Probly from extra weight, power, need of more skeleton.

On landing the thick grass is like glue and I landed a little fast and very tips of wings tore off and stock elevons ruined. Not too bad. Now rebuilding with balsa and plywood. Servos seem ok.

More addicted than ever to the 6S thrust and power now. Very much fun! Used an apc 6x4 sport for launch. Was bummed about my crash landing for about five minutes. My first crash in almost three months of flying four days a week. Now I am just happy to have gone this far in pushing the stryker.
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 09:19 AM
Home of A-10 - Farmingdale NY
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United States, NH, Londonderry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boiko View Post
What range of battery sizes are people running on their otherwise stock (w/stock 30A ESC) PNP F-27C Strykers..?

Thanks,
-mike-
Thanks..I just ordered (2) GForce 30C 2650mAh batteries from Value Hobby, so I'll setup the CG with those guy's and see how we do.

http://www.valuehobby.com/products.php?category_id=8

-mike-
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 09:26 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTAR 600
On Sunday I launched my new 6S stryker. the new plane launched with authority (while being a bit heavier with two 2100mah 3S lipos) and flew perfectly. Can go slow when I want just fine and ripping fast like never before.
VIDEO!!!

Notar, I love how you're doing 6S on a relatively light, sporty setup. Usually, 6S is reserved for the hyper heavy stuff, but you're having tons of fun with your light, HV plane. Very cool.

Baby steps up in the prop from here. 6x4E would be your next step up in power, then a Graupner Speed 6x5.5. After that would be APC 6x5.5E. But I don't think you'll make it to the APC 6x5.5E and still have a live motor.

At the 30,000+ RPM you're turning, I don't think the APC E props do very well aerodynamically. But they can tell you your amp limit once you get your wattmeter fixed.

The Aeronaut Cam Speed 6x5 prop would be a better speed prop than the APC E props, but Im not sure where it falls in the amp range, as those props have a pretty wide chord. Maybe just amp it and try one once it comes up as a next step.
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 11:13 AM
strykers rule
gloom county ny always cloudy well most of the time lol
Joined May 2010
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to all stryker fans the eflite bl-15 inrunner motor using a hobbyking 100 amp esc we clocked it at 123 mph flatout using 2200 rino 30 c batt. great speed for the money anyone interested in owning one i will custom build you one just let me know what your favorite colors or super hero is and ill put you one together.
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Old Jun 08, 2010, 08:48 PM
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NOTAR 600's Avatar
Central Ohio
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murdnunoc View Post
VIDEO!!!

Notar, usually 6S is reserved for the hyper heavy stuff, but you're having tons of fun with your light, HV plane. Very cool.
I just thought it might work. Those 3S lipos were not being used. Dug alot of foam from the electronics bay. Had to cram the new 6S 60amp hobbywing ESC (only $44) all the way back to the motor. Bent the ESC motor wires backwards (over top of esc) to meet the motor and the battery wires/deans connector forward to the batteries. Made my own series connector. Glued plastic inserts into the foam to accept screws to hold the ESC/RX cover. I was able to use the stock battery hatch, snapping down and locking normally. (use tape on it for peace of mind).

Our A.M.A. field was off limits sunday because of courtesy request for high school graduation ceremony nearby. That's why I had to fly in the big field next to my apartment. Flew about 5 circuits around this big open field. I used the same model two setup on my DX6i as my 4S stryker with zero stick trim. Very nice response and flight manners. Still had twelve volts per battery after landing. Won't use this field again for a stryker because it's lumpy and the grass is grabby and unfriendly when landing.
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Last edited by NOTAR 600; Jun 08, 2010 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Jun 09, 2010, 01:15 AM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan3d View Post
to all stryker fans the eflite bl-15 inrunner motor using a hobbyking 100 amp esc we clocked it at 123 mph flatout using 2200 rino 30 c batt. great speed for the money anyone interested in owning one i will custom build you one just let me know what your favorite colors or super hero is and ill put you one together.
What prop and how many cells?

A buddy flies this on his stryker and I remember him having to just about smoke the motor on 4s with a 5.5" prop.

My ARC flies the same speed on 4s with a 6x4 and has lived a year now.

The ARC is the same price, in fact a little cheaper.
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Old Jun 09, 2010, 09:52 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
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Notar 600,
Is there any way you can get a full size heat sink on that motor before going up any higher on the power? The clamshell that you have on there is for sure a good thing, but a big heatsink like this will dump a lot more of the motor's heat and keep it happier.
http://www.lightflightrc.com/HTML/pr...Clamshells.htm

----------------------

Does anyone with some understanding in fluid dynamics have a thought on whether hanging the heatsink over the front end of the motor like this will channel more air into the cooling holes? I just don't know if the air pressure will actually be increased more than if the front of the motor were out in the open with no lip around it. If it doesn't, I'll cut the back side of the heatsink so it can slide back and fit over the whole motor.
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