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Old Jun 15, 2007, 04:22 PM
No Guts, No Glory
flyin C's Avatar
Simi Valley, CA
Joined Feb 2007
2,024 Posts
Hey guys,

What do you think about the stock PZ 5 wire servos that come with the stryker? Because I am converting my PZ FW-190 over to 72mhz, and remembered that it uses 3 wire servos, and the Stryker's servos will fit the tray, and my budget. Or is their another servos around that price?

Also, I am doing a mini review on the PZ Typhoon 2 (PNP) and what to know what you guys think about the included battery and charger???
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Old Jun 15, 2007, 07:18 PM
Live, Die, FLY
Kalispell, in the Rocky Mountains
Joined Jul 2006
497 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin C
Hey guys,

What do you think about the stock PZ 5 wire servos that come with the stryker? Because I am converting my PZ FW-190 over to 72mhz, and remembered that it uses 3 wire servos, and the Stryker's servos will fit the tray, and my budget. Or is their another servos around that price?

Also, I am doing a mini review on the PZ Typhoon 2 (PNP) and what to know what you guys think about the included battery and charger???
For servos I would use Hitech HS-81, I think. Its what I use and there only $20. Worth it.
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Old Jun 15, 2007, 07:31 PM
No Guts, No Glory
flyin C's Avatar
Simi Valley, CA
Joined Feb 2007
2,024 Posts
that is a little too much for what i can spend. but what do you think about the stock servos? i am happy with my stock servos, but only have to change because I need to get 3 wire servos.
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Old Jun 15, 2007, 10:15 PM
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I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
Twin Cities, MN
Joined Feb 2006
1,456 Posts
Are you buying new servos or are you using them because you have them laying around?

If you have them on hand use them... I wouldn't waste my money buying them new. The gears are pretty weak.

Save up a couple more bucks and get the HS-81's. I am found of the MG's personally. You just don't have to worry about them.

Have Fun!
Andy
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 01:07 AM
Live, Die, FLY
Kalispell, in the Rocky Mountains
Joined Jul 2006
497 Posts
Icon is right, HS-81 are well worth it
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Old Jun 16, 2007, 07:26 PM
Gone Flying.
ChrisWNY's Avatar
Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie68
My third Stryker with polyurethane
Minwax water-based poly is great for coating foamies - not only does it improve appearance, but it also provides some abrasion and ding resistance. I've coated every foamie I've ever built with Minwax water-based Polycrylic, including a Stryker.

How many coats did you use on your Stryker?
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:12 AM
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finster's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Feb 2006
502 Posts
Super Mega Stryker

Short vid of my 4s Mega Stryker...Wish I could do some low passes on vid but Im surrounded by trees in the back yard...Tail fins didnt work out so good. Might need to mod some new ones...
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Old Jun 17, 2007, 10:12 PM
Gone Flying.
ChrisWNY's Avatar
Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
finster -

The (second) maiden looks pretty good based on your video, you're definitely getting some high RPMs out of that Mega 16/15/4 and the 5.5x4.5 prop. I'm not sure how the tail fins would cause your Stryker to nose down - whenever I punch the throttle on my Stryker it wants to nose up and climb, no nosing down at all, even at slower speeds. I suppose there's a chance that the earlier crash could've warped the airframe enough that it no longer flies straight and true, but overall I thought it flew quite well. I haven't really seen the bottom of your Stryker up close - did you add an extra spar in the back to really stiffen the airframe? Did you run some strapping tape along the spars in the wing? The more rigid the airframe, the truer it will fly...

Did you end up throwing out that mashed up LiPo? The 4S 2200mAh 20C/30C battery that I use with the Stryker fits into the hull tightly, so I haven't had to use any straps at ths point. It would take a tremendous amount of force to jar it loose from the hull. I couldn't tell what LiPo you were using from the photo - what is the mAh, and is it 3S or 4S?

Just recently I added a Graupner precision spinner and propped down to a 6.5x6.5 Graupner speed for higher RPMs and more top speed - had it clocked at 114mph (by Lidar) on a slight dive on a low altitude pass. I get insanely long flights on a 4S 2200mAh battery with that prop -- I had that thing in the air for 15 solid minutes and the battery still had 3.8V per cell a few minutes after the flight.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 05:51 AM
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rcozstyle's Avatar
gawler, South Australia
Joined Jul 2006
3,672 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fly_boy99
More like:
RPM*PITCH/12*60/5250=Pitch speed x Inefficiency of airframe
I have been reading about the pitch speeds, yet fly_boy is the only one to mentioned the inefficiency of airframe, but wouldnt it be more like this :

RPM*PITCH/12*60/5250=Pitch speed / [B]Inefficiency of airframe x prop diameter . The prop diameter would help reduce the inefficiency of the airframe. I believe if you double the speed the drag goes up by 4 times ?.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 07:40 AM
Gone Flying.
ChrisWNY's Avatar
Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcozstyle
I have been reading about the pitch speeds, yet fly_boy is the only one to mentioned the inefficiency of airframe, but wouldnt it be more like this :

RPM*PITCH/12*60/5250=Pitch speed / [B]Inefficiency of airframe x prop diameter . The prop diameter would help reduce the inefficiency of the airframe. I believe if you double the speed the drag goes up by 4 times ?.
That sounds about right -- as speed increases, drag begins to increase exponentially, from what I have read in other threads. I believe there is a threshold (limit) to the speed/drag that is dependent on the wing loading/area - if you increase speed to a certain point where drag becomes a significant factor, pieces start snapping off the airframe. Eventually the entire plane could theoretically shatter based on the drag factor.
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 08:34 PM
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finster's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Feb 2006
502 Posts
Rcnewb -

I cant figure out myself why it nose dives but I cut down the fins to see what would happen...the flutter and nose dive went away but the speed did too...Hmmm? dont figure...The battery still works fine...brand new TP 4s 2200 25c...took my foot and crushed the dent back out...ez fix Used 2 CF rods in bottom for strength...I have more pics of build but still in camera...
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 08:47 PM
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rcozstyle's Avatar
gawler, South Australia
Joined Jul 2006
3,672 Posts
Hi Finster

Just been looking at your website, Totally awesome, can you give more info on the blade 2 in the video. A friend wants to get one.

Gary
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 09:52 PM
Gone Flying.
ChrisWNY's Avatar
Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by finster
Rcnewb -

I cant figure out myself why it nose dives but I cut down the fins to see what would happen...the flutter and nose dive went away but the speed did too...Hmmm? dont figure...The battery still works fine...brand new TP 4s 2200 25c...took my foot and crushed the dent back out...ez fix Used 2 CF rods in bottom for strength...I have more pics of build but still in camera...
finster -

First off, I got a laugh when I thought of your screen name and the fact that the "fins" of your Styrker are causing you so much havoc...

Did you use the stock fins or make your own (out of balsa, for example)? The fins should not have an effect on up/down movement at all, they are just there to stabilize the Stryker, keep it from rolling uncontrollably. It's odd that shortening the fins took care of the fluttering and nosing-down, and it definitely doesn't make sense that your speed was reduced, although longer fins will help keep your Stryker straighter at high speeds. Something else must be affecting your flight characteristics, but I have no idea at this point. You could always set your Stryker on a flat service, take measurements of the distance of the wing tips from the surface to find out if warping has occurred.

As for the battery, keep a close eye on that thing. That thing really looked mangled in the photo, so that LiPo could be unstable. Does it still hold a charge fairly well?
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 11:14 PM
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finster's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Feb 2006
502 Posts
Rcnewb-

Ok...the fins'ter thing is funny...lol...Just found out why I had them probs...I just compared the new fins with few old sets I had...they were alot thinner...I tried some old ones on the plane and they fit alot tighter...Im using the old, what I like to call the "A" body stryker" came with tape hinges made of EPP foam not z-foam...built a little stronger than B-C stryker fuses in my opinion...The small little changes that parkzone makes would go un-noticed but Ive found a few of them...3 diff fuses..3 diff nose cones...and now diff fins...such slight differences you wouldnt even notice...the "C" fins fit to lose for this plane...gonna order new fins...or should I say old fins?

rcozstyle-

The Blade ll is made by aero-naut...last I heard it costed about $800 u.s. dollars...its been around for couple years now...might be cheaper...Heres the web site AERO-NAUT
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Old Jun 18, 2007, 11:24 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,196 Posts
The more thrust you have available, the more critical it is to have the thrust line and CG set correctly. The more neutral the CG (no pull out or tuck under on a no-power 45* dive) the more level the plane will fly, but the more unstable it is. It is sometimes difficult to tell from the flight behavior which is out of adjustment, the CG or thrust line, so I always spend some time to "tune" the plane before running it hard.

I prefer my delta's with the CG as far aft as I can get it without the plane being uncontrollable - touchy is OK but it needs to be predictable. Start with a forward CG location and gradually move it aft about 1/8" at a time by moving the batter pack aft until the plane is too unstable for you, and then move it back to the last good position. Take that position and see where the plane will balance with your fingertips under the wing. Mark that position (I stick a couple of round headed sewing pins into the foam) and you can then balance it quickly even if you change battery packs and they have slightly different weights.

Once the CG is correctly set then fly the plane level at about half throttle. Crack open the throttle suddenly and see if the plane pitches up or down. Adjust the angle of the motor to the center line (if it pitches up then lift the end of the motor that is closest to the nose - if it pitches down, lift the aft most end of the motor) so that open and closing the throttle has no effect other than to speed the plane up and have it slowly rise as the increased speed generates more lift.

It can take quite a few short test flights to get the plane dialed in, but once you do it is far more enjoyable.....and safer to fly. The more power under your thumb the more critical these adjustments are.

FC
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