Originally Posted by dazzzer1

this seems a cool thread im thinking about getting the F-27C Stryker stock i have 2 planes under my belt im just wondering how easy they are to land? they seem to move so fast can you cut throttle and glide to a land?

Land on grass, not on pavement. As others say, this is a easy airplane to land.

Originally Posted by dazzzer1

what about wind how much can the F-27C Stryker take stock ? also i have a dx6i which is the best rx for this model

It can handle plenty of wind. The other guys will be going home long before you do. Beware of turbulence, though - it's a foamie.

I have a beatup stock Stryker F-27C that's going to receive a makeover: Mega 16/25/2 motor (recommended by Gryphon), Phoenix Ice Lite 100 ESC, Hitec 82MG servos, 4S 30C TP2250 bats. I'm wondering if the stock elevons are sturdy enough. I was thinking of glueing thin, 1/2 inch wide CF strips to both sides of the elevons to stiffen them. I currently use an APC Sport 6x5.5 prop.

Does anyone care to evaluate my stiffening plan, and care to weigh in on prop selection?

Roger

Originally Posted by jbeckett

It can handle plenty of wind. The other guys will be going home long before you do. Beware of turbulence, though - it's a foamie.

I fly in 20mph wind no problem.

with enough throws on the elevons you can cut throttle and hold full up elevator for a flat landing. it can definitely handle wind. my limit is if the plane can't move forward into the wind. otherwise, i fly. windy days are sometimes more fun. take the plane up pretty high then cut throttle to glide around on the wind.

I used to purposely wait for windy days to take out my Stryker. Cut the vertical stabs way down, throw in an extra battery for ballast, make sure she's reinforced, and have a blast.

If you have a DX6i, you can use the AR6200 or even the AR500. Both are considered full range receivers.

While many have success with the AR6100, I don't recommend it. Lots of reports of people losing connection with those (and losing their plane). Maybe they've worked out the bugs on that receiver? Anyone wish to comment?


Strykers are good in the wind but my Parkzone Typhoon 3D is awesome in the wind...

The AR6100's reputation is too bad for me, dont know if the "Bugs" have been worked out or not. I use AR500s and 6200s and have never had a problem. Just dont fly with cars/trailers/anything large and metal between you and the plane, even if the metal is not breaking your "Line of Sight" to the plane it can still cause a dropout with the Spektrum stuff.

Originally Posted by cjbucher

While many have success with the AR6100, I don't recommend it. Lots of reports of people losing connection with those (and losing their plane). Maybe they've worked out the bugs on that receiver? Anyone wish to comment?

I am using three of the fairly new AR6110 very small DSM2 receivers in strykers and PZ T-28 with no problems. I have not really pushed the limits with distance on these since we have a small boxed in field.

Originally Posted by moparmyway

It sounds like your Stryker is just plain old flexing at higher speeds, like you thought.

You could try adding some CF front to back, and then triangulating .210 CF tubing with whatever else you have installed. See picture below for examples. The lowest CF that looks bowed has proven to give wierd in-flight characteristics, so I NO LONGER bend the CF in the rear to follow the wing-tips, the rear most CF stays straight and additional tubes are added following the trailing edge angle

What servos are you using ?

Thanks for the reply guys

moparmy I'm using JR NES 331 servos, their rated at 3.2kg/cm

Originally Posted by NOTAR 600

CJQ, here is something you might try, no guarantee. Check out post #7169 on this page and #7194 two pages after. Let us know if it works.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...61678&page=478

I think I'll try your suggestion first up NOTAR 600 seen that it's the easiest, I'll let you know how it goes, if that doesn't work I'll try the CF stiffeners mopary suggested.

Originally Posted by cjbucher

Hmm... At 130 km or 80 mph, you really shouldn't be getting flexing. Stock strykers should be able to handle 80 with no additional re-enforcement. Mine is a Stryker "A" (bought in 2005) now running a Turnigy and hits low 80's but I don't have any issue with that. The only thing I have is that it has a tendency to climb at full throttle.

You might have a warp or something uneven in the shape of your wing that gets amplified with speed. Has it always done this or has it gotten worse with age? I've seen Strykers warp with age especially if they sit in the sun.

Mine is a 27B,when new I don't remember having the problem but has come in a bit with age, but since I have been pushing it a bit faster it has become
significantly worse. When sitting on a flat surface the trailing edge of the aileron looks straight. The fuse does have a bit of a bow from front to back due to some hard landing. Mine climbs as well on full throttle.

Dudes, I am recommending an ARC setup for a buddy I fly with. I am recommending the ARC 28-47-1.5 on 4S with a 6x4 gas prop. For a stryker of course.

We need some input from those who use Turnigy ESC's. I use the hell out of them(25, 40, 60amp), but when it came to 95amps static I decided to go with a Castle Ice 100.

The question is..... Who feels comfortable pulling 80-85amps in the air with a Turnigy 80amp ESC?????

We are looking for a few who have used the actual esc.

Thanks guys.

If your going to be pulling those kind of amps why risk it ,make the investment in the cc Ice 100 and get the added value of the data logger.I am using two ICE 100's in my TJ (Aurora)and each are pulling well over 100 amps without any issues.I don't use Turnigy esc's ,sorry but I won't gamble with any of my planes were the limit is being pushed so I use what I consider the best.Another thing to think about is the cc Ice 100 is lighter than the Turnigy equivalent.

johnyrocco,

I use the Turnigy 80 amp ESC and have not had any problems. But I use it at ~60 amps static. All I can tell you is the ESC does not even get warm at this level, but 80-85 amps may be another story.

Have you seen the higher rated ESCs that HC has up now? There is a slick looking 85 amp ESC with a good heat sink for the same price as the Plush 80 amp.

P.S. My last HC order has shipped, 45C Turnigy Lipos should now be arriving in...

I use my Plush 60 at 75amps for WOT runs of greater then 1 minute at a time and it hasn't shown signs of being warm yet. That being said, i don't think the Plush 80 at first glance has as much overhead as the 60. Also, with the way I use the 60, it is all or nothing, which is better for the controller then cruising like would likely happen with a stryker. I would suggest cutting your losses and going for the CC100 (either lite or regular). The saftely margine is worth it to me in an application like that.

I have flown my ICE 100 LITE four times now in my Siren and I am LOVING it! Max recorded amps seem to be within 4% of my Eagletree, which is close enough for me. I have peaked at 110A and 1200W, and the Siren is an absolute hoot! Max controller temp. so far has been 115F, and that is when I FLOG the fun stick. The Medusa 28-56-2800 is yawning at me to this point. The planetary gearbox has actually gotten warmer thus far then the motor has, lol

Kid

Originally Posted by cjbucher

While many have success with the AR6100, I don't recommend it. Lots of reports of people losing connection with those (and losing their plane). Maybe they've worked out the bugs on that receiver? Anyone wish to comment?

I have a built up Stryker that's a little above stock; about 80 mph or so top speed. I run an AR6100e in it bought about 6 months ago, and haven't had any problems what-so-ever. It's all about knowing what your doing.

What gives the AR6100's a bad reputation is they are very prone to brown-outs from crap ESC's and electrical interference from being installed too close to the motor and/or ESC. Trust me, I know. I destroyed a GWS Corsair (brown-outs from a cheap BP ESC) and crashed a GWS Formosa (electrical interference) because of this. After much dialogue with Spektrum tech support and lots of hours on forums, I figured out exactly what was going on. I've even tested it out, and was able to recreate some of the same situations as well.

So basically, just use a descent quality BEC, and make sure you have a couple inches minimum between the rx and the motor/ESC, and your AR6100's will be just fine.