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Old Feb 13, 2010, 04:44 PM
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Joined Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by Stryker Flyer View Post
I was able to rebuild my stock motor, the Rotor was spinning on the shaft, impressive on 4S 50ish flights.... have u pulle dure end caps off yet.
Spinning the rotor on the shaft or popping an endbell is an easy fix, rewinding is not I hit the throttle when it was on the ground (in my hand, of course) and smoke started billowing out of it, that means it's shorting out inside and the smoke is the enamel coating burning off the stator coil wires (for those of you playing the home game, the motor is shot).
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 04:44 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by customrcparts View Post
Here is a concept for an outrunner mount. A Turnigy 3536C-1100 is shown in the pictures. The ID of the bore is 36.5mm and the fastener slot pattern is 19mm-25mm X 19mm-25mm for 3mm fasteners. There is a slot to allow for motors that have their wires coming out of the face. I'm not sure of any 35mm motors that do that, but some 28mm's do.

Let me know what you think.
Murds suggestion (as well as others) is as good as gold here. I know what he is playing around with, and I will deferr to him here.
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 09:40 PM
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Sacramento, CA
Joined May 2009
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Murds suggestion (as well as others) is as good as gold here. I know what he is playing around with, and I will deferr to him here.
Moving the Notched Cooling hole to the bottom corner on either side would work well for the Turnigy 2836 series. I would not have had to cut off my bullet connectors.
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Old Feb 13, 2010, 10:26 PM
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Renton, WA
Joined May 2009
98 Posts
Outrunner mount

Thanks all for the feedback. I think I've figured out how to acomodate the outrunners very well. I'll work on a concept Sunday then post some pictures.

I will add the notch to the next batch of 28mm motors.
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Last edited by customrcparts; Feb 13, 2010 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 12:25 AM
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Renton, WA
Joined May 2009
98 Posts
Apparently the TV was reserved because the movie Pretty Woman was on... So, good news! I had time to work on the outrunner mount.

I was able to keep a similar look to the existing mounts. A .300" wide slot was cut in the side. The back face had to change a bit to accommodate the slot. The fastener below the slot will have to be shorter than the rest otherwise it will stick into the slot. But, that is still 1.8D of thread engagement so that's fine.

I took out the slot for the wires that would come out from the face of the motor like ender707's picture (28mm inrunner). Are there any 35mm outrunner motors where the wires come out the face?

Let me know what you guys think.

Gary
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 06:43 AM
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Staffs, UK
Joined Apr 2009
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I Like it.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 07:48 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
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Gary,
Now THAT looks good! Great work!
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 01:12 PM
No meat = no pudding
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Machesney Park, IL
Joined Jul 2008
1,433 Posts
I'd like to thank GryphonRCU for his help on motor/prop selection and other good advice. I'd like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread for posting all of the valuable information that I used to build my Stryker.

I'm very pleased with my results and got a successful maiden in today.

So my setup is this:
- Bare foam Stryker body with carbon strips epoxied into the bottom of the fuse.
- Homemade elevons made from triangle balsa, cut down with heavy duty Dubro horns, 4-40 locking linkages, and Robart point hinges epoxed on both sides (5 per control surface) (and of course hinge gaps sealed).
- Mega 16/25/1.5 SC motor with a 6x4 Graupner prop
- Castle ICE Lite 100A ESC
- 4S 3000 30-40C Lipo (Hobby City specials)
- Hitec HS85MG servos with heavy duty aluminum arms
- (this setup with that 6x4 prop gave me readings of about 98 amps on the ground. In the air, it should theoretically be less due to prop unloading, but I wanted try to stay on the safe side. I may try a hotter prop once I have more data of the in-flight draw.)

My concerns about the maiden largely centered on the fact that I had made the control surfaces a bit smaller than stock. Flying at full speed, this is a good thing, but on takeoff and landing (and at slow speeds) I was worried that they might not give me enough control. Also, with all of the hardware mentioned above, this thing is HEAVY. And, since my main objective was top-end speed, I also wasn't sure there would be enough thrust for a hand-launch. Boy howdy, was I wrong.

Since I had to leave all of the hatches on the plane accessible in order to get that big battery in and out, as well as accommodate my Eagle Tree logger, all of the hatches are held on with velcro (the velcro is held on with Gorilla glue). I was a little unsure whether this would hold up during flight, so I also put some packing tape on. It held up just fine. I held the plane out and gave it about 1/4 throttle and I was not able to hold the plane down. It almost went vertical on an unplanned takeoff. So, I gave it about 1/4 throttle again and gave it a little toss. It immediately went. And fast.

Most of the flight, I flew it about 1/3-1/2 throttle and that seemed right at, or maybe just a little quicker than a stock Stryker. I hadn't really planned to "open-er-up", but you know me... After a couple of minutes of getting used to it, getting it in trim, etc, I brought it down lower and gave it some juice. It was so loud you could hear it echoing off all sides of the trees. It was so fast I nearly lost site of it, then took it vertical to bleed off the speed, which took a bit. I did a few more high speed passes and brought her down. I was worried about needing a fairly high speed to land due to the weight, but it landed pretty much like a stock Stryker with just maybe a tad more sink. No problem at all. I picked her up, blew off the snow, and checked the temperature. The motor wasn't even remotely warm. The speed control and lipo were somewhat warm, but definitely not "hot".

Because a successful maiden was certainly not assured, I opted to leave my Eagle Tree logger out for this flight (didn't want it mangled in the wreckage). So, I don't have any data on speed, amp draw, etc (although I think I may be able to get the amp draw out of this ESC with Castle Link). Next flight, I'll have the data logger onboard includng GPS for speed readings.

So, I'd call it a success. I'm really pleased to have built a really cool Stryker pretty much from scratch, and it flying so well. My thirst for speed has been quenched..... for now.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 04:41 PM
No meat = no pudding
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Machesney Park, IL
Joined Jul 2008
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Put a 2nd flight on the Mega Stryker, this time with my Eagle Tree. Max speed was 117 (seemed faster to me). Max amp draw, a surprising 72A. So, time to swap out the Graupner prop for an APC and see how much that unloads in the air.

Eagle Tree data below.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 05:04 PM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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brwilkins,

That is a GREAT motor, but you know I was leaning towards 16/25/2 for a better match for Stryker.

You can pick up a bunch more speed with your motor.

Some thing seems wrong with your AMPs...way too low. Double check your AMP draw with a wattmeter.

First double check your prop specs....I have seen people grab wrong prop and think it is different size...it would not be first time.

Next, your battery may not be up to the task.

That motor should run at 125A without trouble....your ESC is probably good for near same numbers.

Ask murdnunoc and Mopar about that ESC's limits.

If you are running 6X4, and your battery voltage is fine, then go ahead with 6X5.5 for next try.

6X4 APC on ground draws a bunch more than 70ish AMPs...maybe 117A with good LARGE pack on ground.....How is your battery doing?


I'll be gone for most of the day...Mopar got a chance to play with the same motor....he still has mine.

I bet the RPMs are singing a great tune


Gryphon
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 06:05 PM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,828 Posts
mount

Will this fit the base of the mount for the one that already shipped?
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 06:54 PM
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Renton, WA
Joined May 2009
98 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
Will this fit the base of the mount for the one that already shipped?
Yep! I intended the brackets to be the base for every Stryker motor mount.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Newark, NJ
Joined Jun 2006
23 Posts
will a microdan 2505 2800kv motor work in a stryker with a 45amp esc, what batteries would work, i have some 2200 and 1300 3s, what servos are recommended..not looking for a speed demon just a good park flyer
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 10:34 AM
You down with EPP?
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Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
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I AM WANTING SUGGESTIONS FOR A 28MM MOTOR, PREFERABLY IN THE $15-$30 RANGE THAT CAN SPIN A 6X4 ON 3S NO PROBLEM. WITHOUT SCORCHING, AND A LOT OF WOT. ITS FOR A COMBAT STRYKER BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD ASK HERE TOO SINCE 6X4 PROPS ARE USED FREQUENTLY

I am looking for an alternative to the 2836 Turnigy, because we will be switching motors out frequently and I know this motor does not fit stock mounts without modifications.


The 2835 turnigy's are not up for the 6x4 with a lot of WOT.
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 11:55 AM
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United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
I AM WANTING SUGGESTIONS FOR A 28MM MOTOR, PREFERABLY IN THE $15-$30 RANGE THAT CAN SPIN A 6X4 ON 3S NO PROBLEM. WITHOUT SCORCHING, AND A LOT OF WOT. ITS FOR A COMBAT STRYKER BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD ASK HERE TOO SINCE 6X4 PROPS ARE USED FREQUENTLY

I am looking for an alternative to the 2836 Turnigy, because we will be switching motors out frequently and I know this motor does not fit stock mounts without modifications.


The 2835 turnigy's are not up for the 6x4 with a lot of WOT.
Johnny, have you considered one of the other turnigy 2835's other than your 3900kv?

Either the 2200kv or the 2700kv should be able to turn 6x4 on 3S with no problem.
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