Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

I notice alot of you talking about hot glue. What is the advantage of hot glue over foam safe CA??

Low temp hot glue has the advantage of being flexible once it's cured. This gives it structural properties more similar to the foam around the joint. CA dries very hard and rather than flexing with the foam, the foam will re-break right next to the first joint when it tries to flex.

Hot glue is also better at filling gaps than CA. CA will run too far into the pores of the joint and can leave the joint itself starved for glue. The hot glue stays more on the surface and bonds all the pores of the joint together.

Originally Posted by Trancer

Hi moparmyway

My setup is

Turnigy2836 brushless Outrunner 2350kv
TURNIGY Plush 40amp ESC
Hextronik MG-14 14g/2.2kg/0.11sec servo
3S lipo
AR500 RCX
Control horns, surfaces, rods are all stock replacement stryker f27c parkzone parts.

Looking for control which isn't too wild but will turn out of winds easy.

Thanks all

What size (mAH) and manufacturer on the 3 cell ?

The 1 1/2" industrial heat shrink will fit the HS 81and 85 servos size it's not the thin shinny battery heat shrink but rather like a tough thin rubber with a dull surface that works well with CA or hot glue if you wish.I use the thick gap filling CA on all three contact surfaces making sure not to get any on the servo itself just the heat shrink and there is no flex in the joint and the new rubber skin actually strengthens the servo well especially in a foam wing.Take your time and use just enough heat when shrinking the tube to avoid over heating the servo.If the heat shrink doesn't fit the servo it can be stretched open easily.

Originally Posted by Trancer

I was getting myself in a right confused mess last night with working out what hole the control rod should go into servo, was torn between outer hole or inner hole. Will clear packing tape work ok? I found a low temp 11w laying around but will get a hot gun today instead.. what is the method for removing hot glue?

Clear packing tape should do fine. I picked up some 3M Extreme tape to wrap my entire fuselage in to stiffen it up and will also help to hold in the servos. I hadn't thought about the blue painters tape though, that's a good idea for keeping your servos clean! I went to ACE hardware and picked up a dual temp hot glue gun that takes the bigger sticks for around $15, good investment. You want to use the low temp on foam or it will melt rather than stick. To remove the servo just pull it out and it'll take the glue and a little foam with it, hot glue can be peeled off the servo with your fingers.

Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

I notice alot of you talking about hot glue. What is the advantage of hot glue over foam safe CA??

Hot glue is nice for putting things together where CA would either burn, make it too stiff, or isn't thick enough and Epoxy takes a while to cure. Hot glue is heavy and not too tough but it certainly does the job! I hot-glued balsa strips to the trailing edges of my Stryker to make it stiffer and make a hinge mount for my new elevons and it's perfect for that kind of thing. I will probably hot glue my new vertical stabilizers into place as well.

Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy

Clear packing tape should do fine. I picked up some 3M Extreme tape to wrap my entire fuselage in to stiffen it up and will also help to hold in the servos. I hadn't thought about the blue painters tape though, that's a good idea for keeping your servos clean! I went to ACE hardware and picked up a dual temp hot glue gun that takes the bigger sticks for around $15, good investment. You want to use the low temp on foam or it will melt rather than stick. To remove the servo just pull it out and it'll take the glue and a little foam with it, hot glue can be peeled off the servo with your fingers.



Hot glue is nice for putting things together where CA would either burn, make it too stiff, or isn't thick enough and Epoxy takes a while to cure. Hot glue is heavy and not too tough but it certainly does the job! I hot-glued balsa strips to the trailing edges of my Stryker to make it stiffer and make a hinge mount for my new elevons and it's perfect for that kind of thing. I will probably hot glue my new vertical stabilizers into place as well.

Mentioning the vertical stabilizers, I was wondering who glues those in. I have never glued them in because mine have always fit so ridiculously tight, I never thought of gluing. My next mod will be making balsa fins. unfortunately I don't own any cutting tools besides a hobby knife.

Originally Posted by moparmyway

What size (mAH) and manufacturer on the 3 cell ?

ZIPPY Flightmax 3S 2200mAh

I used that low temp gun tonight murdnunoc it worked a treat on the servos, really holds them in there very securely. I used clear packing tape to protect the servo areas where I applied the glue Unsullied_Spy worked well, thanks guys.

Funny as one of the servos I bought from hobbycity has a terrible misalignment, it simply wouldn't mechanically allow me to place the control horn 90 degrees to the servo and it was only after I glued it in did I realise this! Thankfully hotglue is quite easy to remove as others have said.. I think today I have been through a crash course in hot glue!

I read on the reviews of this servo on hobbycity that a few others also had this problem, luckily I bought three of these servos and had a spare which was able to be centred correctly. Be careful anyone that does buy Hextronik MG-14 14g/2.2kg/0.11sec servos, some do have this problem it seems and I wouldn't buy these servos again.

Approximately how far off is the servo arm in terms of degrees? I've NEVER had a servo with an arm that is perpendicular to the case at neutral. They have all been slightly off.


yellow13

Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

Mentioning the vertical stabilizers, I was wondering who glues those in. I have never glued them in because mine have always fit so ridiculously tight, I never thought of gluing. My next mod will be making balsa fins. unfortunately I don't own any cutting tools besides a hobby knife.

I use a hobby knife with balsa or thin ply. Just keep scoring the wood until it cuts through. I haven't got a large vice (just a mini hobby 1) and using a jnr hacksaw when trying to cut wood means I usually make a mess of what I'm trying to do. I use some 2mm sheet plastic underneath so I don't wreck the kitchen table.

Cheers Trancer for that link, I'll try that and see what I think. I didn't like the other fix due to using both mixes and not being able to mix throttle to elev. for launching, and adding up trim before launching causes it's own probs

Originally Posted by Trancer

Hi moparmyway

My setup is

Turnigy2836 brushless Outrunner 2350kv
TURNIGY Plush 40amp ESC
Hextronik MG-14 14g/2.2kg/0.11sec servo
3S lipo
AR500 RCX
Control horns, surfaces, rods are all stock replacement stryker f27c parkzone parts.

ZIPPY Flightmax 3S 2200mAh

Looking for control which isn't too wild but will turn out of winds easy.

Thanks all

OK,
So basically everything looks good except those stock clevises. Best to just get yourself some DuBro 2-56 rods and hardware. The stock clevises can just break on you in the air for no apparent reason.

I would try throws on the outer holes in your arms on the servo and the second hole away from your elevon. This should allow you the ability to yank and bank while also keeping your Stryker tame. Best insurance would be to program your DX6i for Dual Rates of about 60% throws on 50% positive expo, which will soften the center of the stick and limit the servo throw to 60%. Just flick a switch and you have your 100% throws, or your 60% throws with some expo. You could play with eithor after you get some flights and "tune" your transmitter to your Stryker and your flying style.

One more hint;
Sub Trim (on DX6i) will allow you to trim your servo without effecting the "normal" trim (which will alter the travel distances of your elevons). This allows you to trim your Stryker and keep the trim tabs centered, without messing around with the rods and clevises. Also makes for fast work in snowy/freezing flying fields when trying to dial in the flight controlls.

+1 on the 2-56 rods, I just installed mine today and they are leaps and bounds better than the stock units. I got the spring steel clevises from my LHS for just a few $ and if I can manage to break those I need to hang up my wings!

Mopar's suggestions about the transmitter setup sounds spot-on, should be able to be aggressive with it at low speeds then flip a switch and be able to control it at higher speeds.

Hey guys,

On 4S, is it mandatory to use an external bec on a stock 30amp esc? I hooked up the 4S and the motor screamed with power when holding plane. Just don't wanna poop out in flight.

Jerry

I've put quite a bit of use on my stock ESC on 4s and it seems to be holding up just fine. It has a switching BEC so it handles higher voltage better than other ESCs that just have a linear regulator. It says right on the shrinkwrap 3-4s lipo, has a setting for 4s cutoff, and there is nothing in the manual to suggest it's a bad idea so I'm going to continue running mine until I either get my new ESC or toast the stock one.

The only drawback to running an ESC with a built in BEC (instead of an external or additional BEC) is that if your ESC goes "POP" (usually from drawing too much current on the motor side) you run the risk of NOT having controll of your plane.

An external BEC can allow you to dead stick your plane and land even if your motor shorts out and takes out your ESC as well

If you do run an external BEC, it is GREAT insurance to power it from a seperate source (flightpack) and not the main battery. If you can make the room, it just about guarantees you a return 'controlled" landing.

Thanks guys....on that note are you going down on prop size with stock motor and 4S or will 6x4 work?

Jerry

Originally Posted by moparmyway

The only drawback to running an ESC with a built in BEC (instead of an external or additional BEC) is that if your ESC goes "POP" (usually from drawing too much current on the motor side) you run the risk of NOT having controll of your plane.

An external BEC can allow you to dead stick your plane and land even if your motor shorts out and takes out your ESC as well

If you do run an external BEC, it is GREAT insurance to power it from a seperate source (flightpack) and not the main battery. If you can make the room, it just about guarantees you a return 'controlled" landing.

I've tested an internal UBEC rated at 7S 60 Amp built into an ESC, ran on 10S over 60 amps - cooked the ESC and the UBEC still worked fine. Fire does odd things to electronics so randomness can occur but I trust internal switching BEC's and prefer them to external ones.

Vinnie