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Old Feb 07, 2010, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thekid3418 View Post
I think that Turnigy is your best bet as far as keeping up with that kind of RPM goes. But even that is not a guaruntee. 75k is a lot of RPM! I doubt anyone has experience with that type of question, especially in this thread

The closest I can think of is Murdnunoc's current work with the outrunner, but he is using a CC. What we do know is that the SuperSimple didn't work for him, which means it wouldn't work for you as your switching frequency is 7% higher still then his is.
Yep.
I ran into trouble on the SS (also Suppo) 100A ESC at about 27,000 RPM on a 10 pole motor. That means the Supersimple would run into trouble at 45,000 RPM on the 6 pole Mega.

I saw a spec on either the Suppo or one of the rebadged Suppo brands that said 210,000 RPM on 2 pole. That means I should have been OK up to 42,000 RPM on my 10 pole motor. But it never got close to that before it started stuttering.

The Turnigy K-force line (rebadged Hobbywing Platinum) is a step up from the Turnigy Plush line (rebadged Hobbywing Pentium). They are also spec'd at 210,000 2 pole, which would mean 42,000 10 pole or 70,000 6 pole.

I wanted with everything in me to go for the Turnigy K-force, but given the experience with the Suppo not meeting its ratings, I didn't want to chance buying a controller that immediately wouldn't work for the application I bought it for. So I got the Castle. And it's not had a hiccup to 45,000 RPM, which is beyond its specs.

The Turnigy K-force or Hobbywing Platinum line would be the best bet for a budget ESC, but 75,000 RPM on 6 pole would be pushing it, if it even ran it. I feel much more comfortable pushing a Castle near and beyond its specs than I would a Turnigy, much as I love Hobbycity stuffs.

I will continue to buy Turnigy for most applications, but with my high pole requirement on this specific setup, I felt better going with the Castle, much as it rubbed me raw to do it!
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Old Feb 07, 2010, 10:37 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
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ESC help

Thanks for your input, and comments guys.

Generally, the max rpms are 50-60K. (for a 70mm EDF) But some guys building race jets will be trying to get about 70k (for ~5 seconds max). So that's why I put the rpm requirement that high.
The applications range from 4s-12s, so there are some HV applications.
Before I posted, I was looking at this Turnigy (I've heard the Turnigy's are pretty decent) for a 6s setup (for general flying):
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...85A_w/_4A_SBEC

Thanks again, Gary
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Old Feb 07, 2010, 10:47 PM
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I forgot about that one. I haven't experienced it, heard any reports on rpm, or seen specs on rpm.

That ESC would now be the one I'd try over any other if I were going for high RPM where the ESC's switching rate could be meeting a challenge.

If anyone's tried it yet on high rpm, the reviews don't indicate it or provide enough details. But I'd say it'd be worth a test. I would run it if it came in a 200A HV version that wasn't the size of a Tupperware container.
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Old Feb 07, 2010, 10:49 PM
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I saw the specs for the Hobbywing (or Donsrc) Pentium. It's good to 70K for 6 poles. That would be fine for general flying.
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Old Feb 07, 2010, 11:05 PM
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I for one would be very interested to know if the Turnigy/Hobbywing/Don's/Sonix/Volcano/Exceed ESCs hold to their RPM specs. Be sure to keep us posted on how they work for your guys!
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Old Feb 07, 2010, 11:08 PM
The Kid
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Detroit, MI
Joined Dec 2007
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Murdnunoc, by this summer I'll be getting a new ESC just for fun, and its a toss up between the Plush 80 and the one you have listed. I was leaning towards the Plush, simply for the compactness, but I might just have to try the controller you linked to. It does look nice, looks like it would run cool, and take a lot of power (perhaps more then rated??).

I really wish Turnigy would make a 110-120A 6s ESC with switching BEC, similar to the Commander ESC from Scorpion, as that would work well in my Stryker. Im concerned that once I get some better batteries for the NEU (6s-3000mah 40C or 45C if they have them by then, instead of the 6s-2200 30C), the SuperSimple ESC will give up the ghost. The only thing that they make which is close is the HXT120, but I am pretty jaded towards them. After that, a used CC125 would be great, but again jaded...We'll see how the ICE goes. Maybe it will go well at 110amps and that will be my way of the future. Only time can tell.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 12:36 AM
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Kid,
Another one to look at is the K-force 100A. SBEC and a little more capacity.

ICE is also nice! I ran a flight on my 100A ESC at 166A today. It logged its own temp at a max of 142F. Not bad.

I'm sure OAT will change things. It was near freezing when I flew that flight. Also, if you have it cooped up in one of your little whiffle bat fuselages, it may not be so willing to go that high.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 12:50 AM
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Guys,

Consider placing a post in specialized forums and asking others who might have used those ESCs at those insane high RPMs.

As you have seen some ESC's will not perform to their specs, and some will perform above their specs.

_____________________________________

murdnunoc,

Your 7S KV test with Castle ESC might have been 20% above its published switching rate. I hope that it gave you correct no load KV.

186,000electrical RPM / 10pole X 2 = 37200 RPM

7SX4.0V/cell= 28V
28VX1600KV=44800 RPM

44800/37200=1.20 , so 20% higher RPM
Even at 1500KV it will be 13% higher.
Worse if you had above 28V.

So I hope the KV from ICE ESC readings gave you correct KV.

I suggest you double check with your Eagle tree data logger which you have ordered before trying anything risky.

Too low of a no load KV will inflate your % loaded KV and might get you into trouble.....PLAY IT SAFE.



Gryphon
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 12:52 AM
The Kid
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Wow, 166A Thats impressive. I did hear about one fellow that was running 8s and almost 200A in bursts for a hotliner, but that was only for 4sec bursts. I, for better or worse, have the LITE version for versatility.

That Turnigy looks slick (and cheap ), but also pretty large in size. Its closer to the regular ICE in size it seems.

Oh power systems. I could talk myself in circles about what is the best one. Same goes for switching to 2.4 or not, and which system to go with
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 03:51 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Kid,
Once you go 2.4, I am sure your "reservations" about Castle will alleviate themselves without you doing or trying anything else.

5s5000, APC 7x5 and 7x6 props are set for that test from your video you linked, will see what we get, havent forgotten.

__________________________________________________ _________________________

Murd, got some boxes going out this week, yours will be one of them
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 09:33 PM
You down with EPP?
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Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
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Hey guys, what's a good "light weight" way to reinforce the front of the airframe on a non glassed stryker? So that if I hit hard it will keep my 4S 3700 in the plane.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 09:57 PM
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I remember seeing a video on how to fiberglass sheet the stryker foam fuse using fiberglass cloth and minwax but I don't know where I saw it.
Can anyone tell me where to find the video?
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Old Feb 09, 2010, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
Hey guys, what's a good "light weight" way to reinforce the front of the airframe on a non glassed stryker? So that if I hit hard it will keep my 4S 3700 in the plane.
Fiberglass is fairly light and quite strong. I bought a roll of 3M Extreme tape from Staples to augment my CF tubing and fiberglass to hold the plane together and stiffen the airframe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtn9105 View Post
I remember seeing a video on how to fiberglass sheet the stryker foam fuse using fiberglass cloth and minwax but I don't know where I saw it.
Can anyone tell me where to find the video?
Clicky.
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Old Feb 09, 2010, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
Hey guys, what's a good "light weight" way to reinforce the front of the airframe on a non glassed stryker? So that if I hit hard it will keep my 4S 3700 in the plane.
Also, You can use Bamboo BBQ skewers (or C/F rods, sharpened at one end)

Cut some "Flutes" like a drill bit has, into a long bambo skewer (or C/F rod) Use it in your drill or Dremel at the slowest rpm. And "drill" far into the nose. Coat a bamboo skewer with epoxy, and insert it into the deep hole. You could put just one in the center, or a couple towards the outsides.
If your running a huge lipo, line the bottom and side walls of the battery bay with or 1/16 aircraft ply. CA'd or epoxied in place.
You can also epoxy the bamboo skewers to the bottoms of the battery bay, where the they meet the side walls.
Hope that helps. Gary
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Old Feb 09, 2010, 03:32 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
Hey guys, what's a good "light weight" way to reinforce the front of the airframe on a non glassed stryker? So that if I hit hard it will keep my 4S 3700 in the plane.
Johnny,
In addition to whats reccomended above, try hot glue and a shoe lace.

Lay the lace in the battery bay and line it up in the center of the battery. Mark it and lay some hot glue. Immediately press the lace into the hot glue and lay some more glue over the top of the lace. You want to puddle it up so there is enough heat in the glue so it lays itself down and flattens out all by itself. Make sure to get the glue all of the way into the corners and have the lace hug the floor and walls. When it cools, you wont believe how tight you are able to tie a knot without anything loosening up. I sometimes run HUGE batteries, and I havent thrown a single battery since tying them down this way. Make a shoe lace knot so it is very easy to release when you want. I must have well over 750 flights on the exact same origional lace without touching the hot glue gun for a second time. I might go so far as to say this method is bulletproof. I will post a few pictures if you want.
Give it a try
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