Agree again lol. I started on this short path to certain bancruptcy with helis and jumped in feet first with a budget walkera 36 never had a single problem with it and only parted with that one when my brother begged the hell out of me to let him have it, since then ive moved up in price to many other brands my favourite still being the arkx400 which i still love to this day.
I have a few motors escs etc for my stryker mostly what i would say are midrange like the turnigy 2835 which is a nice motor but atm my stryker has an emax 2812 with a 7x6 prop , not the fastest thing in the world and take offs are a little hairy due in most part to the heavy batt but i like it , ill swap back to the turnigy at some point and possibly do some more digging into edf's when ive bashed her about a bit more and gotten a little more comfortable with her.
Waffling again lol better stop with the cider.

Oh Gryphon , Howard got back to me and said the same as yourself , but , if i place the mixer inbetween the rx and cp the servos twitch every second or so , so i tried it rx-cp-mixer and it works fine , quite weird , maybe something to do with the mixer/copilot sampling rates or some weird stuff like that lol just incase anyone else has the same issue.

i had a friend put some a-10 like pods on his stryker. forget the size but they were smallish. i forget what they came off of. not enough power, but it was decent for that light set up.

EDF may not be the better than a prop for speed/power, but there are some good EDF setups coming out that are Thrust Vectoring Capable, both 180 and 360 degrees. I have a pair of 64mm 180 degree TV nozzles made by Freewing that I have used on The F-35 in my Avatar picture.

A high power 70mm EDF with 360 TV on it would be very nice on the Stryker!

Originally Posted by efflux RC

Awesome power ya got there.
I hate to tell ya this, but if you get into foamy EDFs, there's another Gary who makes plastic molded EDF accessories (GLM)
I guess I should share the batt power in the Squall and the Fantom. Please note the packs are stacked in both airframes.
BTW here's my Business thread :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...096945&page=69
there's also a full pictorial build thread on the Squall (in the Foamy EDFs...see "MONSTER Squall") the build thread has turned into a competition by a couple of challengers.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...167614&page=18

THANKS Gary !!
Looks like I have close to or just over 100 NEW pages to look over.

just a thought here, but since my Strykers (and a few others) are running at some serious high speeds, and your "competition" has invaded your build thread, I wonder how they would feel if I used one of your EDF's and blew their doors off ?

I know EDF is all new to me, but running serious power is not.
I will be earnestly reading your 2 linked threads, please Pm me if there is any way I can jump in and help get you running faster, or even you help me run fast with one of your EDF's !!!!

Originally Posted by moparmyway

THANKS Gary !!
Looks like I have close to or just over 100 NEW pages to look over.

just a thought here, but since my Strykers (and a few others) are running at some serious high speeds, and your "competition" has invaded your build thread, I wonder how they would feel if I used one of your EDF's and blew their doors off ?

I know EDF is all new to me, but running serious power is not.
I will be earnestly reading your 2 linked threads, please Pm me if there is any way I can jump in and help get you running faster, or even you help me run fast with one of your EDF's !!!!

Mopar,

No. Not at all, they asked, and were invited to share thier builds. The thread has turned into a competition which will be fun. (the rules are on post #1)

I won't muddy up this thread anymore with my EDF stuff. But, yeah, I'd be happy to talk EDF with ya. Jump in the Skyworld or Squall thread, or PM me anytime.
Gary

I got my stock Stryker out of the box and together. With a Turnigy 2200 installed the cg is about 1/2" forward of the holes where the manual indicates it should be.

Is that close enough to fly proper of should I add some weight in the rear? The battery is as far back as it will go without cutting the tray some.

Wrathchild,

With only 1/2" forward C.G. don't sweat a thing....Don't add weight just for that little amount.

If anything it'll fly a bit more stable than otherwise.


Gryphon

Originally Posted by efflux RC

Hi guys,
I'm new to the Flying wings forum.
I was asked to pop in and let you guys that we have just begun to offer Mega motors as part of our EDF products line up. the web site needs to be updated as of yet, but please contact me for your Mega needs. I will be offering the 16/25/x series for $110, an the 16/35/x series for $135. I do not need to place a giant order and can take your orders via Paypal thru my Email: Effluxrc@gmail.com. We will be accepting Visa/MC by the middle of next week.
Until we build up the Mega motor inventory, please allow 4 weeks after I place the order for the product to be recieved in California. We will be placing our initial order next week.
Please visit our website: www.effluxrc.com
and our thread here on RCG: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...096945&page=69
I'll do my best to provide the quickest turn around possible, and provide you with great customer service.

Thanks for your support, Gary

Shot you a PM and an email.. I need a 16/30/2...

Originally Posted by Tram

Shot you a PM and an email.. I need a 16/30/2...

Answered. Thanks for the inquiry Tram.
Gary

Originally Posted by Wrathchild

I got my stock Stryker out of the box and together. With a Turnigy 2200 installed the cg is about 1/2" forward of the holes where the manual indicates it should be.

Is that close enough to fly proper of should I add some weight in the rear? The battery is as far back as it will go without cutting the tray some.

Mine has a 34 gram outrunner on it and it's seriously nose heavy also yet flies fine. I've got some honkin 4s batts on the way to really make it scream, and plow.

Hi all sorry to ask for some newb help.

I have a Turnigy 2836 fitted to my stock mount, had to use a dremel to get it to fit. I have the writing on my APC-e 6x4 prop facing towards the nose of the stryker is that correct? As facing the prop this way seems to be keep making the prop hit the motor cables, I could tack them back but feel this is quite abit of pressure on the cables.

What direction should the prop be turning?

I have the elevons w/control horns spare parts I am finding it difficult to work out how everything gets put together.

Firstly I don't know how to attach the elevons. They come with what looks like tape over the tabs, do I just glue them into the slots on the top of the wing? If so do I use epoxy or foam safe CA? Or do I use packing tape to secure them in?

What way should the control horns be facing?

Sorry for the newbie questions I realise this is quite a cutting edge thread.

Many thanks

VT edf is cool, but you lose a ton of speed/momentum in those turns.

Originally Posted by Trancer

Hi all sorry to ask for some newb help.

I have a Turnigy 2836 fitted to my stock mount, had to use a dremel to get it to fit. I have the writing on my APC-e 6x4 prop facing towards the nose of the stryker is that correct? As facing the prop this way seems to be keep making the prop hit the motor cables, I could tack them back but feel this is quite abit of pressure on the cables.

What direction should the prop be turning?

I have the elevons w/control horns spare parts I am finding it difficult to work out how everything gets put together.

Firstly I don't know how to attach the elevons. They come with what looks like tape over the tabs, do I just glue them into the slots on the top of the wing? If so do I use epoxy or foam safe CA? Or do I use packing tape to secure them in?

What way should the control horns be facing?

Sorry for the newbie questions I realise this is quite a cutting edge thread.

Many thanks

Trancer, I put this link in my favorites. He has alot of good stryker methods/tips. Go to ADJUSTING/ELEVONS in the list on the left and scroll down to STOCK ELEVONS on that page. Look how he does it. There should be some plastic clips and grommets that came with your stock elevons to hold the hinge tabs to the trailing edge of the wing.

http://www.2kool4u.com/stryker/strykercog1.shtml

The foam inside the plastic coverings of the stock elevons and vertical fins will need foamsafe CA if you ever need to glue it. The Z-foam of the mainwing/body can be glued with normal CA, epoxy, elmers wood glue.

Standing behind the rear of your motor/plane, your APC 6x4 e-prop should turn clockwise assuming the numbers on the prop are facing the nose of plane.

Originally Posted by lowdive

VT edf is cool, but you lose a ton of speed/momentum in those turns.

Yeah. different strokes for different folks. most guy's with TV don't care about speed. The idea is to flop around like a 3D plane, or cruise at high alpha.
Not for me really.

Originally Posted by Trancer

Hi all sorry to ask for some newb help.

I have a Turnigy 2836 fitted to my stock mount, had to use a dremel to get it to fit. I have the writing on my APC-e 6x4 prop facing towards the nose of the stryker is that correct? As facing the prop this way seems to be keep making the prop hit the motor cables, I could tack them back but feel this is quite abit of pressure on the cables.

You will have to keep the Motor wires pulled in to prevent the Prop from striking them. You should carefully work with the cables to get them to bend around the mount, it should not take too much pressure. The pictures show how I held mine in with the stock mount. Be sure to use 4 mounting screws, you may have to drill/file 2 of the mounting tabs to get all 4 screws in. You should also use some washers on the exterior of the mount when you put the screws in to help strengthen the Tabs.

From rear of plane, the APC 6x4 e should spin clockwise, but as a pre-maiden/pre-flight check if you make changes, you should make sure your prop is "Pushing" air towards the rear before you throw it!