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Old Apr 24, 2007, 07:44 AM
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Pocatello Idaho
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what is this light weight spackle i see people using for gap filling, whats the brand name and where can it be purchased? Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 07:55 AM
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protarget88
what is this light weight spackle i see people using for gap filling, whats the brand name and where can it be purchased? Thanks
Hobbico Hobbylite filler is the stuff for filling cracks/gaps in foam/EPP, I've used it quite a bit during building and repair, works great. If you mix it with CA, it is even stronger. Weight-wise, Hobbylite filler is lighter than foam itself.

You should be able to find this stuff at your LHS. Most online hobby vendors (such as towerhobbies.com - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL481&P=7) sell it. It's about $5 or so per container.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 08:03 AM
AMA 6418
New Stanton, Pa.
Joined Jan 2004
2,335 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by protarget88
what is this light weight spackle i see people using for gap filling, whats the brand name and where can it be purchased? Thanks
Get Red Devil light spackle at most hardware stores. This stuff works great!

...Keith...
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 08:43 AM
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How big of a gap?
I use Probond for small.
Never have to, but Great Stuff foam (spray can) as foam filler.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 08:43 AM
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Western NY
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F-27B Stryker mod

So I'm 90% of the way finished with a modified F-27B Stryker. I picked up the Stryker kit online (F-27B version), I decided to start with the replacement airframe ( http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ1270 ), since it included everything but the electronics, which was exactly what I wanted. I also like the camouflage look of the F-27B over the F-27C design.

Here's the power set up that I am using on this thing:

* Mega 16/25/4 long can motor
* Larger F-27C version of the motor mount
* CC Phoenix 35 Amp ESC (BEC disabled)
* HS-65HB servos
* Graupner 7x7 speed prop
* Polyquest 2200mAh 4S LiPo battery
* Berg 4-ch Rx
* Ultimate BEC

My goal is to be able to retain the hatch set so that I get a nice, neat, finished appearance. I have already dremel'ed out the battery compartment, making more room for the battery and the wires. I placed the CC 35 Amp ESC toward the back, and drilled a hole in the rear hatch that I used to route the motor wires. Everything fits great in the rear. ESC should have adequate cooling since there are vents in the rear hatch cover.

Up in the front, the radio is closest to the nose, the Ultimate BEC is pressed up against the small EPP divider, so it's just behind the Berg Rx. The battery fits great (I dug out the battery area quite a bit, mainly deepening the compartment), although the wires are causing some difficulty in squeezing everything into the compartment. With battery installed, c/g is just about perfect, perhaps slightly nose-heavy, which is what I prefer when flying a wing.

Haven't weighed everything yet, but I should fall into the mid-20 oz. range with the battery installed. I live in a relatively windy area, so a heavier airframe with more power is preferable.

I'm just wondering if anyone else has attempted a mod like this one on the F-27B model, and what you had to do to get everything to fit nicely using a Mega 16/25/4 and 4S LiPo (or similar) set up. Again, when all is said and done, I want to be able to cover everything up with the stock hatch set included with the F-27B Stryker.

I'll post photos this evening...
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 01:41 PM
Survival is Attitude!
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Hallsville Texas
Joined Aug 2005
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My Stryker II had the reciever in the front, with the cables in an outside belly trench I carved and covered.
Stryker III has the battery bedded in the side of the fuselage midway back on the port side.
The ESC is outside in the belly, and has landing gear too. If youhave no landing gear, it could have protruded from the turtlehull, on the back top.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 04:53 PM
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skonk -

How did you go about carving the trenches on the outside belly? I will probably need to do the same for some servo wires that I am running on the underside which come up into the turtle hull, where the radio is located. I figured that I could cut some small slits for tucking in the wires.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 05:37 PM
Survival is Attitude!
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Hallsville Texas
Joined Aug 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb
skonk -

How did you go about carving the trenches on the outside belly? I will probably need to do the same for some servo wires that I am running on the underside which come up into the turtle hull, where the radio is located. I figured that I could cut some small slits for tucking in the wires.
From experience, it is the WORST thing I ever did. The Monokote covering wont protect it.
Carve a line inside, and insert the cables, or arrange them flat on the bottom inside the unit.
Make a tape sandwich, with a big tape stuck to aluminum foil, and tape the other side of the foil.
You even can make a ground wire to attach to the aluminum and plug it to reciever ground, or battery ground.
Tape it inside as the new floor.
This shields and isolates the reciever from outside noise.
I ran the antenna wire outside through a hole I made, and then used the existing antenna trench. I stayed AWAY from ESC, SERVO, FX lighting circuits.
Keep them apart, with the exception of the throttle channel.
Noise can cause range check failures. Inflight range related crashes. BIG turnoff!
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 06:06 PM
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Western NY
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Skonk - thanks for the input. The radio should be good to go as it will be located inside the Stryker (it will be in front of the BEC, right up against the nose area). I don't plan on putting *any* electronic components outside of the turtle hull.

The wires I intend on burying are the servo wires (I had to extend them using 12" extension wires), the radio antenna is already tucked away nicely in the stock-cut slot underneath the Stryker. I'll post some photos once the coating of water-based poly dries so that you can see how I want to finish off the modification.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 07:54 PM
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Western NY
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F-27B Stryker photos

Photos of the modified Stryker are below. Space is definitely tight, but hopefully it will be more clear as to my goals in finishing this thing. All the electronics are ready, but I need to tidy up the wiring, especially for the servo wires, before I write this one off as finished.
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Old Apr 24, 2007, 09:50 PM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Wilson
Get Red Devil light spackle at most hardware stores. This stuff works great!...Keith...
Or the "house brand". ACE Hardware sells their own brand at about 75% the cost of the Red Devil or DAP and I can't tell any difference in the product.

You find it in any hardware store in the paint department - just ask where the wall patching products are. It comes in plastic tubs that feel empty when you pick them up.

See http://www.reddevil.com/productDetai...RT&c=pr&cat=47 and http://amconservationgroup.com/catalog.aspx?catid=88

FC
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Old Apr 25, 2007, 07:47 PM
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Walnut Creek, CA
Joined Jan 2007
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Does anyone have specs on the 1880kv motor that comes with the F-27C? I have it and before I do any motor swapping, I wanna know things such as how many amps it draws on 6x4 prop, max amps, max volts, max wattage, etc.

Also, what prop sizes have you guys gone with for the fastest speeds with stock setup? Thanks!
jerry
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Old Apr 26, 2007, 09:41 AM
Survival is Attitude!
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Hallsville Texas
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I would like to know too. I run Himaxx, or justgofly exclusively
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Old Apr 27, 2007, 10:39 PM
Slowly Approaching 1,000
Detroit (area), MI
Joined Mar 2004
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Hey All,

I'm just getting into this thread and trying to read it, there's a lot here. So I apologize up front if this has been asked a thousand times so far, but what's the general concensus in comparing the Funjet to the Stryker C? Do each dispaly certain characteristics or what?

As I've read so far, people say theat the Funjet is faster. I've also seen it fly very slow and light. Any opinions please? Again, I apologize for the intro question as I am still trying to catch up to the thread. Thanks a ton.
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Old Apr 28, 2007, 12:57 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,103 Posts
I have had several of both....

FunJet = faster, more stable at high speeds, easier to adjust thrust line, ~2X the cost of the Stryker, very stable at ~22-24 oz but can be built light with small outrunners and still have great performance, Elapor (foam) is stiffer than Stryker and IME takes paint better, runs fine with HS-55 servos, great designed in cooling for battery-ESC & motor. Few parts available so if it breaks you generally buy another. Generally considered to be a "foam delta wing done right" (Multiplex must have been reading the Stryker threads and designed in from the beginning all the things we mod into our Strykers)

Stryker = cheap if made from parts which are readily available, comes in "just add Rx & battery" as well as RTF versions, sort of an "open source" design so it is highly amenable to being hot rodded, more draggy airframe than the FJ (takes more watts to do a given speed) but the fuse/wings can be easily thinned and trimmed, IME it is tougher and harder to hurt in a crash, 1/2 cost of FJ, needs HS-65 or HS-81MG servos (the 55's strip out), foam elevons can get soft over time (but easily replaced with balsa), foam is sort of rough and needs to be filled with light weight spackle prior to painting, did I say cheaper?, needs added wing reinforcement or they get U shaped over time. Lots of bang for the buck and can be made into almost anything you want with easy and well documented mods.

If you are new to deltas then I would go with a Stryker first since it is harder to break and costs less when you do. When you get the need for speed, you can hop it up. After your skills and tuning ability get better, then move to the more $ JF with a hot motor and fly the wings off it.

FC
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