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Old Nov 30, 2009, 09:45 PM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
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Ender 707,
Thank you for your prop test data on the Turnigy motor!

There are a lot of people out there running these motors, and your results will help with power system decisions, since no specs are available for them.

I did a little playing around with my motor calculator to estimate a resistance for the 2700kv motor based on the readings you got on the 6x4 prop (was it an "E" prop? That's what I calculated for.) I basically worked backward till I came up with specs.

The 2700kv Turnigy is pretty well known to run slower than other 2700kv motors. I've experienced it, too. So I estimated with a kv of 2500.

Bear in mind these figures are from a power system simulator, not real life measurement. Actual values may be different.

My calculator came up with a resistance of:

.071 ohm single phase.

EDIT: I'm refiguring based on new info that tests were on a 6x4 Sport prop rather than the Electric that I figured for.

Compare that with a Mega 16/15/4 2200kv with resistance of
.045 ohms single phase
to get an idea where the Turnigy inrunners fall. They'll fly a Stryker.

Bottom line is, if you can figure out what its amp limit is, and what prop(s) get it there, you'll be helping a bunch of people.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 10:53 PM
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ender707's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined May 2009
718 Posts
I have had ta few of these APC 6x4 and 6x5.5 for a long time, and do not want to give you bad information. I am pretty sure that they are E props. Can you verify just by looking?
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 11:03 PM
The Kid
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Detroit, MI
Joined Dec 2007
2,586 Posts
Looks like a 6x4 Sport prop to me, but I can't say for certain. And all 6x5.5s are 'E' props, so no sweat there
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 11:05 PM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
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I agree with 6x4 Sport. I'll refigure my calculations, as the prop line is significant. Will have to wait till tomorrow, though...
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 11:19 PM
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GryphonRCU's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
3,848 Posts
ender707,

A fully threaded rod has more flex than a rod with threads only on one end.

I'm not saying it will not work for your speeds, just saying which one is stronger and stiffer.

___________________________

If you use my favorite Clevis, it should never turn on you unless you are holding it with pliers and twisting it by hand REAL GOOD.
Does not use or need a nut behind it.

All of my friends use them....either they bought them or I gave it to them.
A bunch of guys on the internet started using them tooI think Mopar too.
It is a great product, better than anything else that Ive seen.

http://www.dubro.com/hobby/ecatalog/dubro/00021.htm

See the Clevis in the top picture.

I buy it for 2-56 or 4-40 size in (2) pack or (12) pack.


Gryphon
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 11:36 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
ender707,

If you use my favorite Clevis, it should never turn on you unless you are holding it with pliers and twisting it by hand REAL GOOD.
Does not use or need a nut behind it.

All of my friends use them....either they bought them or I gave it to them.
A bunch of guys on the internet started using them tooI think Mopar too.
It is a great product, better than anything else that Ive seen.

http://www.dubro.com/hobby/ecatalog/dubro/00021.htm

See the Clevis in the top picture.

I buy it for 2-56 or 4-40 size in (2) pack or (12) pack.


Gryphon
I havent needed to adjust mine for a while, so I forgot what a pain in the fingers it is to adjust them !!

Absolutely correct though, NO WAY will the rod twist if you got one of them on each servo rod. I have mine on the elevon side with a soldered end on the servo end. No need for any locking nuts if you get them eithor !!!

Also, I must agree 100%, the fully threaded rod is SIGNIFICANTLY more prone to flex than a non threaded (whole length) rod. So much so, that even on a 4-40 rod, I wouldnt take a chance..........................but thats just me.
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Old Nov 30, 2009, 11:45 PM
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GryphonRCU's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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ender707, here are more Prop pics,

Maybe these pics can help.

From the top down:

APC Sport 6X4

APC E 6X4

APC E 6X5.5

__________________________________________________ ____

Note: The large holes are for use with my HEAVY DUTY prop adapter for 5mm motor shaft.
I will not run any more 3.2mm prop shafts...not if I can help it.

See difference in size of the adapters? (my 5mm adapter versus a 3.2mm prop adapter)

My prop adapter has a through hole....so it can slide down as close to motor as you want it to get regardless of excessive length of some shafts...of course the farther away; the quieter the prop gets.

__________________________________________________ _____

Edit:

The other one sort of looks like 6X4 Sport...see the edge of the blade where you see the biggest twist in blade? (roughly 1" away from center)
Your pic looks like it is smoother and maybe thicker(like 6X4 sport) versus thinner like the E prop.
You may want to compare my 2nd picture(56.9KB) to your actual prop in hand. Which one of the top (2) props match up better to your 6X4?

Gryphon
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 12:11 AM
CJQ
Registered User
Innisfail Australia
Joined Dec 2007
112 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
CJQ,

You need 600W with a motor that is efficient enough at 600W to get to 100 MPH.

You don't have enough battery.

The list for accompanying mods are not short either.....They are doable but you need to invest some time and money doing it.

to get to 100 MPH from 80 MPH:

100MPH/80 MPH= 1.25 times more speed
Cubic rule 1.25X1.25X1.25=1.95 times more power.

So you can see that you need twice the power as you have now at 80 MPH.
Consider buying ARC 480 size motor for $60
ESC 60A or 80A pending your battery and its number of cells.
battery
Carbon Fiber Tube/strip installation
Tape job
Servos
pushrods and clevises
Comment on how many cells your charger can charge? 3S max or more cells.

120MPH/80 MPH=1.5
1.5X1.5X1.5=3.375 , so aim for roughly 3 1/2 times the power as compared to now. With it comes increased weight from battery and fuse strength modifications. Most likely you will be building wooden elevons unless you want to take big short cut.

Post regarding your budget and wishes and I'm sure folks will give you feed back and help you with more details.

Have fun,

Gryphon
Thanks for the reply Gryphon, it's very interesting, I hadn't heard of the cube rule
before, it's easy to see how speed can mean some serious $. So at this stage 100Mph sounds good.

As I mentioned I have 3S 25C 2200 bats but if their not enough, I can charge up to 5S

So if anyone can make some recommendations on motor/speedy/battery sizes it would be appreciated?

I've already put timber elevon's on and I'm in the process of putting CF stiffener's across the wings and along the fuse. I've got Hitec HS 65 servo's on it, are they ok?

Thanks Charles
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 12:12 AM
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ender707's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined May 2009
718 Posts
Regarding the 6x4 prop, I can not tell just by looking even with the additional pictures Gryphon posted. In order to get Murdnunoc the right data, I will pick up a new 6x4e on Wednesday from my LHS, holding them next to eachother I should be able to tell, and I will run another quick test.

While I am there I will also sort out this pushrod situation. I could tell the difference between the flex of the Regualr and the Fully Threaded 2-56 rod. I may pick up the solder-on clevises, or look at lock-nuts. But I will take care of the issue before it becomes a crash.

I like to post stuff like the push rod info to run it up the flagpole, even though I hate it when I upset Mopar ("Uh Oh!") . Every time I get info back I figure it saves me from a crash/equipment damage/rebuild time/$$$. By now, I think I owe several people here a steak!
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 05:45 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ender707 View Post
I like to post stuff like the push rod info to run it up the flagpole, even though I hate it when I upset Mopar ("Uh Oh!") . Every time I get info back I figure it saves me from a crash/equipment damage/rebuild time/$$$. By now, I think I owe several people here a steak!
Ender,
You, Sir, do NOT have to worry about getting me upset. I am just a peon, BOTTOM of that flagpole, if you will !!!

As far as those steaks go, I could sure go for one right now !!!

HOWEVER............

I think we would just as easily settle for a good video or two in the next few days that shows you frying up the sky. (OH, and a close up of your controll hardware so we know if you soldered and went with those awsome clevises that Gryphon suggested !!)
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 07:47 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,997 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
...of course the farther away; the quieter the prop gets.

Gryphon
And the more efficient that prop becomes !!!
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 08:59 AM
Registered User
Stryker Flyer's Avatar
Fort Worth, Texas
Joined Apr 2009
129 Posts
Opto Isolator

I am looking for an Opto Isolator. Does any know of a place that has them in stock. I used to use the Medusa opto, but there out of business.

I am planning on using the CC BEC and programming to 6 volts. I have the Castle link. Has anyone had any issues doing this.
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 09:10 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU
...of course the farther away; the quieter the prop gets.

Gryphon
And the more efficient that prop becomes !!!
Any chance there is a motor mount being designed that will take this into account, and allow the motor to hang farther off the trailing edge?

I try to run my motor as far aft as possible, but I'd love to move it back by an inch or so.
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:23 AM
You down with EPP?
johnnyrocco123's Avatar
Houston, Tx
Joined May 2009
6,830 Posts
So I see everyone is still using the stock parkzone motor mount.

Interesting, I thought there would be something by now.

I've been searching the net, there's a dude on ebay that claims he is making one, for sale on Ebay.
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:31 AM
Gone Flying.
ChrisWNY's Avatar
Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123 View Post
So I see everyone is still using the stock parkzone motor mount.

Interesting, I thought there would be something by now.

I've been searching the net, there's a dude on ebay that claims he is making one, for sale on Ebay.
It's easy enough to use a metal motor mount or make some sort of clamp out of carbon fiber that is epoxied to the Stryker airframe. I used the stock mount on my setup but later converted to a carbon fiber mount (I combined a metal motor mount with c/f and wrapped the mount with kevlar thread then added epoxy) using 2x20mm bolts w/locking nuts to clamp things down. I converted because the stock mount cracked during a hard landing and the screws were always loosening up on me.
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