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Old Nov 19, 2006, 11:36 AM
Registered User
O. C. CA
Joined Jan 2005
800 Posts
[QUOTE=Grassy Knoll]Hey youngster

The T didn't have a rumble seat unless your thinking of the back seat of a touring. The drivers door was on the right side. So the pasenger had to climb in after the driver got it started. (That is if it were cranked).

My first car was a 1923 T, with wood wheels, and no door on the driver side, wish I had it back now.

Back to the issue, I just obtained a Mega 16/15/4 for my 27, looking forward to trying out props to see which will be the best.

Himeros
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 12:43 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
3,960 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksmuncey
what is a good 3000kv motor for the stryker c?
I'm thinking of trying one of these http://www.justgofly.com/tech400DF_DD.htm

See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1581 for a comment on using that motor on a Multiplex FunJet which is a heavier and faster plane.

FC
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Old Nov 20, 2006, 04:07 PM
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Fatts's Avatar
Efland, NC
Joined May 2006
455 Posts
I just maidenned my pnp today and all went well, I found that on full rate (launch condition) it was very resposive and into the wind I had a lot of ballooning, so I have a question, I bought a 3s 2100mah from hyperion litestorm, but the pack is too wide and slightly too long, although I could cut out the foam I don't want to do this so is everyone using the batt from the parkzone rtf box or what packs are you all running? I gave up and used a 3s 1200mah lipo that fir just great and I had a good flight, but I think that when I turned back into the wind and the nose went up and stalls hapenned I put this down to the pack in front not being a 2100 and so not heavy enough.
Basically, what's the right pack to use, links if you know them, and I am going to have to turn my atv's down, no expo on my radio, but the c bird is back down in 1 peice and flight bud on hand to witness the event, great flight but this one is a really big handful right now.

Fatts
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Old Nov 20, 2006, 05:07 PM
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pache11's Avatar
United States, IL, North Aurora
Joined Mar 2005
34 Posts
Hello,

I have a new f-27c that I have flown for about a week. Is it normal for this plane when trimmed to fly at 30-40% throttle to climb at about 45% degree angle at higher trottle settings? When trimmed for high speed flight it will dive when the trottle is cut. Is this plane severly speed trim dependant or is it a thrust alignment issue. Horizon tech support says this is normal!!! Anyone else have these issues. I fly mostly nitro planes 3d, funfly, etc and never had a plane so hard to trim at different speeds.
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Old Nov 20, 2006, 11:25 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
3,960 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pache11
Hello,

I have a new f-27c that I have flown for about a week. Is it normal for this plane when trimmed to fly at 30-40% throttle to climb at about 45% degree angle at higher trottle settings? When trimmed for high speed flight it will dive when the trottle is cut. Is this plane severly speed trim dependant or is it a thrust alignment issue. Horizon tech support says this is normal!!! Anyone else have these issues. I fly mostly nitro planes 3d, funfly, etc and never had a plane so hard to trim at different speeds.
Most planes will rise, although slowly, as they speed up - lift is increasing with speed if the thrust angle is set to neutral, but 45* is way out of line.

First be sure your center of gravity is set correctly. Assuming you have the roll attitude set so it rolls neither left nor right, set the elevon trim to neutral (elevons level with the wing) and launch again. Fly, adding whatever up or down stick position is necessary manually until you get some altitude. Then put the plane into a power-off 45* dive. If it pulls out as it speeds up in the dive, the CG is too far forward, so move some weight, usually the battery, aft about 1/4" at a time until the plane maintains a constant dive angle. If it tucks down, increasing the dive angle (not likely - it would normally be too squirrely to fly) then it is tail heavy so move some weight forward.

Some planes and pilots like just a little pull out (forward CG) as a safety factor, but most planes fly the best with a neutral CG. Anyway, set it at neutral for now and you can add a little forward bias to suit your tastes after you finish with the thrust angle adjustment.

Once you get the CG set, mark it, and be sure to always put the same weight battery pack in the same position in the fuse during further tuning. I mark my packs with a reference line so I can set it to a mark I put on the inside of the fuse, that way I can always put the pack at the same point.

Now you can move onto adjusting the thrust angle. Set the elevon trim to maintain level flight at a constant speed - say half throttle. Then open and close the throttle quickly. For a pusher prop like the Stryker, if the thrust line, a line through the shaft of the motor, is pointing up at the front of the motor, the plane will tend to dive as throttle is suddenly added. If the thrust line pointing forward is pointing down, the plane will pivot around its CG and tend to go nose up. Adjusting the Styker thrust angle is done by placing shims at the front or back of the motor mount - inconvenient to adjust to say the least.

Each time you adjust the thrust angle you will notice the need to take out more trim, finally getting to a point where there is almost no trim and the plane will remain level as the throttle is suddenly opened and closed. The plane will still gradually rise and fall as the speed changes affect the lift generated by the wing, but it will be gradual and is easily compensated for manually, or with sub trim if you feel the need to fly fast or slow.

It is a king-sized PITA to dial in a new plane, but once you do, it will be much more enjoyable to fly. Properly adjusted, it is often like a whole different plane. It took me about 10 launches to adjust my Stryker-like Multiplex FunJet so it would behave and fly like I wanted. At first I hated the way it flew, but once I got it dialed in, it has become my favorite fast plane.

FC
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Old Nov 20, 2006, 11:32 PM
Plane Crazy!!!
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Joined Sep 2006
754 Posts
Just maidened my F-27c for 2 successful flights last weekend.

I had someone throw it for me each time but am wondering what is your all favorite SOLO launch method....?

Power/No power/spinning prop slicing hand and all, etc....?
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 07:42 AM
dy'n togo fly'n
In my Camper! Tx,Mi,Fl
Joined Apr 2006
53 Posts
Kilo60, After chopping the end of my finger off... I now grab the leading edge of the left wing about halfway with my left hand, give it close to full throttle and toss it like a pizza box frisbee. I hold the transmitter in the right hand to control the elevons. Someone here suggested this method and it works great for me.
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 03:07 PM
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Major Justice's Avatar
Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
I don't trust anyone else to hand launch mine, so I power up to at least 50% (Usually more like 70-80%), face the wind, & launch it hard & level at the top of my arm length. At lower throttle settings it will tend to lose a little altitude (gaining speed in the process) before immediately pulling away to the sky. With a hard launch, a higher throttle setting & proper wind alignment, you will never botch a hand launch with a Stryker (That is as long as you keep it at a level attitude. A torque roll can cause you to nose it up). With all the experimenting I've did with launching it, and never having a friend help, I've only messed it up 2 times. Once on my first flight, and again about a month later. The first time I launched it with no throttle, and powered up after it left my hand. This caused it to enter a torque roll. That was the last time I launched it without some throttle. The second time it managed to get into a roll (could have been a torque roll, but I think it was out of trim), and it cartwheeled 4 or 5 feet with no damage. Just the nose popping off, like it was supposed to.

As it's been said before, follow through like a pitcher to get your hand out of the way of the spinning prop. The manual is written with a no power launch to make it safer, but I've never cut myself during the launch. I have while checking the throws though.
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 03:42 PM
It's gone...
_OZ_'s Avatar
Germany, NRW, Heinsberg
Joined Aug 2004
5,065 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kilo60
what is your all favorite SOLO launch method....?
TX in left hand, Plane in right. Full throttle, toss plane at 45 degree angle and follow through with right hand to the TX. Never had a problem.
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 04:24 PM
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Fatts's Avatar
Efland, NC
Joined May 2006
455 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatts
I just maidenned my pnp today and all went well, I found that on full rate (launch condition) it was very resposive and into the wind I had a lot of ballooning, so I have a question, I bought a 3s 2100mah from hyperion litestorm, but the pack is too wide and slightly too long, although I could cut out the foam I don't want to do this so is everyone using the batt from the parkzone rtf box or what packs are you all running? I gave up and used a 3s 1200mah lipo that fir just great and I had a good flight, but I think that when I turned back into the wind and the nose went up and stalls hapenned I put this down to the pack in front not being a 2100 and so not heavy enough.
Basically, what's the right pack to use, links if you know them, and I am going to have to turn my atv's down, no expo on my radio, but the c bird is back down in 1 peice and flight bud on hand to witness the event, great flight but this one is a really big handful right now.

Fatts
Thoughts on this anyone?

Thanks,

Fatts
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Old Nov 21, 2006, 07:31 PM
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Major Justice's Avatar
Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatts
Thoughts on this anyone?

Thanks,

Fatts

I use the parkzone 2200mAH 11.1V Li-Po. You might be able to turn your battery on it's side, have you tried that? If not, modifying a compartment would work if you made sure to keep the center of gravity from left to right proportionate. I'm sure you will solve the problems that a wider compartment creates (How to re-attach the hatch & stuff). People do all kinds of crazy stuff to these Strykers, and widening a compartment or modifying a motor mount to accomodate the running gear on hand is standard practice here.
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 07:59 AM
Survival is Attitude!
Skonkworkstexas's Avatar
Hallsville Texas
Joined Aug 2005
2,235 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyluck
Kilo60, After chopping the end of my finger off... I now grab the leading edge of the left wing about halfway with my left hand, give it close to full throttle and toss it like a pizza box frisbee. I hold the transmitter in the right hand to control the elevons. Someone here suggested this method and it works great for me.
UGH!!!!!!!!! Are you meaning a nicked fingertip, or a stump? I have a Re-attached right ring finger, severed just behind the nail. the ball stayed attached. as did the circulation, on a Fullscale ground service accident.
I have had someone throwing mine, power off.

FInally sucess! I have been trying jets unsuccesfully since "Backyard Flyer" ran an article on Schumates F18 in July 2005. Many mistakes as a modeler and pilot.
My Stryker is just loose parts put together from an article "Build a Bulletproof Stryker" at RC Universe. I am powering with a HiMaxx 2816-1220 left over from my crashed Hornet. A thin 8&6 APC electric Gives 30 ounces thrust at 22 amps and 54 MPH. For the Motocalc sportsfans try 9.25 inches on an 8&6 thin electric. Verified on the bench. Tried a thick 8&8. Nogood! Less speed, and the motor has a grinding noise, like it is in a bind. Hopefully they make a THIN 8&8!
Anyway the thrust line is slightly off. Tries to dive at full throttle, climb at reduced throttle. It isnt bothering me cause I prefer to climb vertical while rolling anyway! 700 foot diameter loops is fun too. Just wish we could trail smoke, to leave a contrail!
My failure was that I was hitting it hard. A helper thriws it power off and I quickly ease into it after it leaves his hand. Full throttle torque rolls it into the ground. Once she is at speed then I pour it on! What a stable lady in glide! Not bad at high speeds either!
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Old Nov 23, 2006, 09:47 AM
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Fatts's Avatar
Efland, NC
Joined May 2006
455 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Major Justice
I use the parkzone 2200mAH 11.1V Li-Po. You might be able to turn your battery on it's side, have you tried that? .
I went ahead and ordered a pz lipo from horizon and the big one the 2200 from hyperion I will use that for the superfly I run. I think I will leave the batt bay on the stryker alone and just go with the pack designed to go in there.

Also the big lipo I have will not go in there either sideways or on it's edge.

Horizon shipped the lipo today, I cut off the ec3 and put on a deans ultra, what's everyone else running connectors wise?

Fatts
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Old Nov 23, 2006, 12:33 PM
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Major Justice's Avatar
Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatts
I went ahead and ordered a pz lipo from horizon and the big one the 2200 from hyperion I will use that for the superfly I run. I think I will leave the batt bay on the stryker alone and just go with the pack designed to go in there.

Also the big lipo I have will not go in there either sideways or on it's edge.

Horizon shipped the lipo today, I cut off the ec3 and put on a deans ultra, what's everyone else running connectors wise?

Fatts

There are a lot of people that swap leads, and they usually do use Dean's connectors. The guy who runs my LHS advised me against using Dean's connectors, saying they are medium duty compared to others.

I myself haven't changed the battry leads. The Blue Parkzone leads have worked well for me. They hold tightly when inserted all the way in, but still can break loose in a crash keeping the weight of the battery from pulling the other electronics out of your plane, or even worse, pulling the wires out of your other electronics. They're also fool-proof as you can't plug them in backwards sending a devastating reverse polarity current through your ESC.

The main reason I've stayed with the PZ connectors can be summed up in a phrase "If it ain't broke, why fix it?". They look more heavy duty than the dean's connectors, and besides the advertisements of Dean's are the best, I've never heard an argument in their favor by someone who has used several other types of connectors citing product integrity (specifically of the component parts) or otherwise.

The LHS guy is an old timer, an he's also a Great Planes dealer (Not Tower Hobbies. Only Great Planes. At least that's what he says.) I wouldn't make product decisions on his opinion alone though, because he also thinks JR servos are inferior to Futaba's. He sai he took one that was given to him by a friend apart, and the gear teeth couldn't bee seen with the naked eye. That was probably 10-20 years ago though.
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Old Nov 23, 2006, 09:01 PM
Live, Die, FLY
Kalispell, in the Rocky Mountains
Joined Jul 2006
497 Posts
Just ordered a new battery, price is now $65!!! FINALLY
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