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Old Oct 11, 2006, 11:24 PM
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Joined Feb 2006
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little help please, i have the older one

I have a HImax hb2815 3000 brushless set up with a 3cell lipo 2100mah, I dont get more than 5min out of the plane, is there something wrong, Im using the electifly speed control S35, the prop is a 5x5 x 4x5 something like that. Is my plane doing 80 plus?
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Old Oct 12, 2006, 02:33 AM
The Boz
Bryan Bozarth's Avatar
Galaxy #1
Joined Sep 2006
39 Posts
With that much RPM/volts you should probably run a 4x4 prop, tiny prop, but will allow you to draw less amps but higher RPM with that 11.1v battery you may be attemting to burn up the ESC because it is trying to pull more amps than it is specified to. I think that a smaller prop will give you more play time too, because it will allow for less amps.

Happy jetting!

B
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Old Oct 12, 2006, 12:53 PM
Say no to interfierence!!
John Campbell's Avatar
United States, OR, Terrebonne
Joined Mar 2005
49 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan Bozarth
With that much RPM/volts you should probably run a 4x4 prop, tiny prop, but will allow you to draw less amps but higher RPM with that 11.1v battery you may be attemting to burn up the ESC because it is trying to pull more amps than it is specified to. I think that a smaller prop will give you more play time too, because it will allow for less amps.

Happy jetting!

B
I second that...
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Old Oct 12, 2006, 07:22 PM
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_OZ_'s Avatar
Germany, NRW, Heinsberg
Joined Aug 2004
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Earlier I made new bright orange fins with an extension out the bottom to protect the prop. I flew the Stryker with the new extended fins. They flew fine but didn't take landing to well. I had a harder than usual landing and they broke. I need to strengthen the design to hold up to harder landings.

I also made a Depron fin to the same dimensions as the stock fin. The depron isn't as stiff as the stock foam material but it held up well. It held up well until I had a little problem. I was on my second battery and was a few minutes into the flight when I heard a a Pop! Pop! Rather than risk more problems I bought it back for a landing and Immediately noticed a small hole in my new Depron fin. Then I noticed one of the screws holding the motor was almost all the way out, another was gone and my prop was nicked! From all of that it looks like the screws vibrated loose, despite the Loctite, one came all the way out, hit the prop and got shot through the fin.

Moral of the story. Do a thorough preflight at least every time you change out a battery pack.
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Last edited by _OZ_; Oct 12, 2006 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 04:07 PM
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Major Justice's Avatar
Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
F-27 rebuild using stock parts

Just finished my Stryker F-27 C rebuild. I tried to use as many of the stock parts as I could, but didn't want to compromise on most aesthetic parts. I would have got new hatches if I had a little more cash. Here are some links to pictures. I don't want to upload them on the RC site because they're pretty big, and so no one will get mad because their computer is too slow.

http://www.freewebtown.com/bluegrass...trykernew1.jpg
Top-Front View

http://www.freewebtown.com/bluegrass...trykernew2.jpg
Top-Side View

http://www.freewebtown.com/bluegrass...newprofile.jpg
Profile View

Included modifications: Carbon Fiber Re-Enforcements, Velcro to battery, velcro battery hatch lock, highly visible paint scheme, repositioned electronics to increase their longevity, and 3" removable CF sleigh skids. I re-did the velcro near the hatches after the pics because they didn't stick well to the paint. I just put new pieces were the old ones took the paint off. Good adhesion now.

It's powered by the stock F-27C 1880kv Brushless, and a 2200mAH LIPO that isn't going to full charge on the stock charger for some reason. After I figure this out, I'll Maiden it. Since the engine & most of the electronics have already been in the air, would this be re-maidening it?

Questions comments & suggestions are wholely welcomed.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 04:19 PM
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Germany, NRW, Heinsberg
Joined Aug 2004
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Looks nice. I'm now motivated to finish my new Stryker fuselage.
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Last edited by _OZ_; Oct 13, 2006 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 09:24 PM
Stryker Junkie
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Joined Mar 2006
20 Posts
Might be worth looking at some way to strengthen the trailing edges of the wings. I crashed my neu 1110 1.5y powered F27b 2 days ago because the elevons ripped off in a full throttle dive. Even though I killed the throttle i am guessing it was still doing well over 100mph when it hit the ground. I have repaired most of the damage and will try to fly it tonight but I fear the fuse isn't straight enough to fly at speed. The hinges tore out the pieces of foam they were attached too. I am trying some thin, clear cloth tape along the entire trailing edge instead of the hinges to see how it goes. Might be worth pulling your hinges off and taping the trailing edge and and then refitting the hinges. I am of course assuming the hinges on the F27c are the same as the F27b.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 10:13 PM
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Major Justice's Avatar
Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbrazil
Might be worth looking at some way to strengthen the trailing edges of the wings. I crashed my neu 1110 1.5y powered F27b 2 days ago because the elevons ripped off in a full throttle dive. Even though I killed the throttle i am guessing it was still doing well over 100mph when it hit the ground. I have repaired most of the damage and will try to fly it tonight but I fear the fuse isn't straight enough to fly at speed. The hinges tore out the pieces of foam they were attached too. I am trying some thin, clear cloth tape along the entire trailing edge instead of the hinges to see how it goes. Might be worth pulling your hinges off and taping the trailing edge and and then refitting the hinges. I am of course assuming the hinges on the F27c are the same as the F27b.
Some have used Carbon Fiber & basswood that they glue directly to the trailing edge. Others perfer hinge tape. I also warped my old fuselage. It won't fly straight, and is nearly impossible to trim in. The warp had different effects at different speeds. You should probably go ahead & buy a new fuse, or try to straighten the one you have out.

I read in a post on these forums that soaking the fuse in water will allow you to re-mold it. If you do get it close to working order, then make sure that you re-enforce it with Carbon Fiber. The warp occured during a flight after the wreck.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 10:22 PM
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Germany, NRW, Heinsberg
Joined Aug 2004
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High speed flight caused my elevon to fail too. I now use balsa and Klett hinges.
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Old Oct 13, 2006, 10:25 PM
Stryker Junkie
cjbrazil's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
20 Posts
I have straightened it somewhat though even the undamaged fuse had a tendency to roll left at high speed. I looks quite straight although I doubt it will behave well at 100mph+ . I have already ordered a new fuse but i work at a remote mine site and I'm not home for a few days. I think i might glass my next one.
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Old Oct 14, 2006, 05:18 PM
not now ... flying
nil8r's Avatar
Houston, TX
Joined Nov 2004
113 Posts
My F27C PnP Maiden
Experience - Easy Star brushless and Tribute (retired).
Lots of G2 and G3 sim time.

WOW! I LOVE PnP!

Setup was a breeze. Put in GWS naro Rx I already had and used the park flyer 3S Lipo. I put packing tape on the leading edges. I setup my Futaba 9C and ebyeballed the throws setting up 3 rates, 2 like the manual suggests (but I just eyeballed it) and one in the middle. I then eyballed the trim and went to the field. There was some wind, about 10-15, but I saw I guy fly the RTF stryker in wind about a year ago so I wasnt too worried.

I verified I was on the low rate setting. I was a little worried about the launch but with this brushless and some head wind I couldnt believe how easy she launched. To my surprise she only needed a little up trim and that was it. She soared into the wind and I turned her left and I just couldnt believe how easy she was flying.

Downwind and this thing is moving! I back off the throttlle and my heart is pounding. She slows down and I make the 2nd turn and head up wind at about 50% throttle. I adjust the trim a little more and she flys like a dream. I make about 4 circuits nice and easy. Things feel sweet.

I power her up on the upwind leg and man she can move. I point her straight up and try my first roll. Wow again! She actually rolls on axis. I bump the rates to the middle setting I had set up. She is so responsive and smooth. I bring her back around down wind and let her rip. Whoa! This baby is moving! Best of all she handles so smoothly I feel confident about everything.

I spend the next 20 minutes or so doing loops, rolls, flying on edge in circles, floating her into the wind and just generally having a blast! And the best part of all, no crashes!

I cant believe I waited this long to step up to a plane like this. I stuck with the easy star too long. Its a great plane and I love making movies with it, but FAST is where its at! I think the F27 is actually easier to fly as strange as that may sound.

Thanks Park Zone! I will be getting your other PnP models soon.
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Last edited by nil8r; Oct 16, 2006 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2006, 06:07 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,130 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nil8r
I setup my Futaba 9C and ebyeballed the throws setting up 3 rates, 2 like the manual suggests (but I just eyeballed it) and one in the middle. ..... I point her straight up and try my first roll. Wow again! She actually rolls on axis. I bump the rates to the middle setting I had set up. She is so responsive and smooth.
OK Now set your triple rates so that the low one is where your middle is now, the middle one is what the factor recommends as maximum, and your high rate is about 25% more than the recommended max (about the most you can get the elevons to move).

When you want to do an axial roll, flip from the middle to high and slam the stick over hard. The plane will spin like a top...but don't try and fly it that way or it will look like the CG is too far aft and it will be almost impossible to control if it has any speed at all.

FC
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Old Oct 15, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Kentucky
Joined Sep 2006
265 Posts
Well, I was pretty busy this weekend and didn't get a chance to maiden the Rebuilt C. I have however looked through some information on the Stryker, and an Ultra Fly F-16 model that I put some money down on last week (should be here wednesday). If you guys remember, I had trouble trimming the old plane in, it wanted to go left & down. I figured it was due to the warp in the fuse, and din't give anything else much thought. I added a half turn to both the clevis' during the re-build, but put off checking the Elevons & CG until I was about ready to fly it. When I first bought the plane I used a straight edge on the top of the plane, and it worked. There was a noticeable gap at the front of the elevons, but everything looked nice & level.

Today while reading, I came across a good site on Stryker information. Both the F27 stock, and Mega brushless varieties.

http://www.2kool4u.com/stryker/index12.htm
A page on adjusting your elevons.

It said that using the bottom of the plane would give you a better reading, and I couldn't resist. I did it, and noticed that they were about 1/16 off giving a down direction (the plane). After looking the plane over, I realized that the half turn I added was turning right, looking from the front of the plane. I did a half turn backwards of what I intended. I studied further, and there seems to be an impercievable draw in the left pushrod (looking at the plane from the front http://www.freewebtown.com/bluegrass...trykernew1.jpg ). That means that the left elevon would be a little closer to the servo, turning the Stryker left. The loss of lift would cause the plane to dive. Since there are a whole slew of variables included in this instance, I decided I should do a test flight before changing out the pushrod. I ended up doing 3 half turns (one to negate the one I added during the build) which added one full turn to the clevis'. From what I can tell with my naked eye, the elevons are aligned good. I will just add some trim during flight if I'm wrong, and adjust each elevon differently to get the turn out of the plane afterward. If you stare at anything long enough, your mind can play tricks on you. I'll update you guys after the flight, but if you haven't built a Stryker before & want to do so, http://www.2kool4u.com/stryker/ is a thorough documentation of one man's build. 2 of them actually. If you're going to build, or even buy a stock C, this guy fills it most of the gaps that the Instruction manual left out. I didn't read through the Mega information, but if it's as comprehensive as the Stock information, it will be of major help.

If you are interested in my rebuild, then here is the link to a blog I made to remember it, and answer some questions for others. It's kinda long, but the 2kool4U guy really loved these build. He wrote a small book.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=116416

Links to pics are at the bottom of that blog.
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Old Oct 17, 2006, 12:01 PM
The Boz
Bryan Bozarth's Avatar
Galaxy #1
Joined Sep 2006
39 Posts
I found that using regular airplane covering seems to help with wing stability. I think I might cut off some of that huge wing, and up the wing loading. I think that would make it much faster and smoother. this thing can fly so slow, It seems like a jet shaped slow-stick some times. Anyway I think that I will start off by cutting the wind at about the 2nd elevon hinge from the outside edge and then balance it from there, fully loaded with battery and all. What do you guys think about that? I think that the elevons are just way too big for this plane with high speed motors.

B
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Old Oct 17, 2006, 08:55 PM
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Joined Aug 2004
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I think its a bad idea. I cut 2.5 inches off mine and its much more unstable and doesn't seem any faster.

And the slow speed stabilty is horrible now.
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Last edited by _OZ_; Oct 18, 2006 at 07:25 AM.
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