got a video of the fire ball??????

Originally Posted by John Campbell

got a video of the fire ball??????

Post it somewhere!

Respect the Lipo!! Treat them well and they will treat you well. If you don't k now what you are doing you can swell one or burn one up.

I crashed my "C" model so I clipped the wings to get rid of the messed up parts, got a new servo and made new tail fins too. The next Stryker body will have the orange and black tiger scheme depicted on the tail fins.

Originally Posted by crosborne

Respect the Lipo!! Treat them well and they will treat you well. If you don't k now what you are doing you can swell one or burn one up.

I crashed my "C" model so I clipped the wings to get rid of the messed up parts, got a new servo and made new tail fins too. The next Stryker body will have the orange and black tiger scheme depicted on the tail fins.

That is one slick paint job, or will be. My dads old jeep had the same paint job. I rebuilt my stryker and am wateing for a new lipo, after a little bit of an insident. I may just be doing a paint job like that one, but with Black and White. Heres a pic of the new body.

Originally Posted by crosborne

Respect the Lipo!! Treat them well and they will treat you well. If you don't k now what you are doing you can swell one or burn one up.

I crashed my "C" model so I clipped the wings to get rid of the messed up parts, got a new servo and made new tail fins too. The next Stryker body will have the orange and black tiger scheme depicted on the tail fins.

I just finished mine. Last night I cut stencils for the right wing to add tiger stripes that were identical to the stock F-27 C. I used a thin cardboard box & an exacto knife, and it took more than an hour. After testing on white paper I decided that I should have used poster board or construction paper for the stencils. After considering the time, the fact that my hand was purple from shoving the knife through the cardboard for an hour, and the slightly fuzzy edges from the rough cuts, I trashed them . If you decide to add the stripes, it may help to make seperate stencils to navigate the slots for the tail stabs. Also, just the simple Orange/Black Paint scheme I used took several 'prep' products, and several days to complete. Being a professional painter, I tried to improve on the methods pioneered on this board. Too soon to know though, but the solvent based materials I added to the loop do a much better job prepping the surface for paint, and protecting it once applied. If anyone is interested, message me.



Has anyone ever had problems fitting their gear into the fuse? I'd imagine that some of the Mega setups would use larger recievers. Cutting into the bottom won't help me because of the CF rod that runs along the bottom. I did notice that the hatch set for the B & C are different. The louvred back hatch on the C looks lower, but more ventilated than the harder looking plastic version for the B. Would the B hatch set provide adequate ventilation for the LIPO & Electronics, while increasing the head room for my electronics? The heat shrink coating of the wires leading to everything but the ESC were damaged do to the factory cramming them in.

Where have all of the flyers who have an intimate knowledge of flying & building Strykers gone? I've researched, sent e-mails to Horizon Hobby, and repeatedly asked on these forums. Can't anyone help?

Questions concerning shortening throws, and other simple questions about what I am to expect after this re-build.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581035

The above reply concerning a goof I made in re-enforcing the plane with Carbon Fiber. Will a different hatch set help?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=215

Only you, the RC plane experts that should be able to field all these questions easily can help now. With all of the people who have dealt with these things, I'd think that someone could help. I guess that enthusiasm for Strykers wain after a few fuses.

Top hole on elevon horn will shorten throws. The clevis on the control rod should screw in and out to lengthen/shorten the control rod ass'y and enable you to re-center the elevon. Does your radio have end point adjustments or dual rates? You could change the throws with those also.

I don't know about the C hatch covers. I would cut whatever foam I had to in order to fit it in and keep my CG correct. Hatch covers are cheap tho, maybe just try it out at your LHS or something. I put the ESC on the side and the RX flat on the bottom on my B.

Originally Posted by radralph

Top hole on elevon horn will shorten throws. The clevis on the control rod should screw in and out to lengthen/shorten the control rod ass'y and enable you to re-center the elevon. Does your radio have end point adjustments or dual rates? You could change the throws with those also.

I don't know about the C hatch covers. I would cut whatever foam I had to in order to fit it in and keep my CG correct. Hatch covers are cheap tho, maybe just try it out at your LHS or something. I put the ESC on the side and the RX flat on the bottom on my B.

Thanks for the advice. I was contemplating turning the RX on it's side, since all the wires & crystal are what is obstructing the top hatch. Turning the ESC is a much better idea, since it is smaller & has more secure connections of wires. I have 2 sets of elevons (one on the plane, one with just control horns) and one complete elevon assembly on the way (with hinges). I guess having a couple extra hatches wouldn't hurt .

It is a 4-Channel with dual rates. It utilizes 3, and has an inoperable spring loaded trainer switch on the left (no chord port). I have flown it on high rates without even realizing it until someone said something about how the throws looked fast, and I looked at the switch.

My other planes have the screw threads on the pushrod, but I was unaware that the Stryker had it until now.

You really helped, and I will be glad to return the favor anyway I can.

Thanks again

Glad I could help.

ralph

Major Justice,

I used stencils to paint my Stryker. I wanted fuzzy edges though. But anither way to get crisp edges is to use the stencils and then outline the edges with a black Sharpie or black paint.

Does anyone else here notice a "tail wag" when flying slow, straight and level. Mine has done it since day one.

Originally Posted by crosborne

Does anyone else here notice a "tail wag" when flying slow, straight and level. Mine has done it since day one.

Only when it's breezy. My F-27B did that when it ran into turbulence, I coudn't figure it out at first but then noticed it didn't do it when the weather was calm.

BTW, to answer one of my earlier questions about NiMH batteries and the Stryker C...I don't know because I wound up buying the RTF version instead of the PNP. Even if I do upgrade to a DX6 radio later, since I didn't already have LiPos or a charger it seemed to make sense to pay $90 more than the PNP and get both...plus I was ready to fly it in just a couple hours!

And holy cow, this thing is a big leap over the B! I knew it would be faster, I just didn't realize how much faster. Scared the outta me when I launched it the first time. The controls felt a little different and I pulled back and throttled up to avoid hitting a tree after launch...launch is a good word! It took me a few seconds to get my bearings after accelerating going nearly vertical.

Originally Posted by Mr.Pibb

Only when it's breezy. My F-27B did that when it ran into turbulence, I coudn't figure it out at first but then noticed it didn't do it when the weather was calm.

BTW, to answer one of my earlier questions about NiMH batteries and the Stryker C...I don't know because I wound up buying the RTF version instead of the PNP. Even if I do upgrade to a DX6 radio later, since I didn't already have LiPos or a charger it seemed to make sense to pay $90 more than the PNP and get both...plus I was ready to fly it in just a couple hours!

And holy cow, this thing is a big leap over the B! I knew it would be faster, I just didn't realize how much faster. Scared the outta me when I launched it the first time. The controls felt a little different and I pulled back and throttled up to avoid hitting a tree after launch...launch is a good word! It took me a few seconds to get my bearings after accelerating going nearly vertical.

yeah, they sure are, I got the six series brushless as I said before and new servos and stuff and put it all on the B..not much different thant he C...I even used the old motor mount...works fine with a 5x5 prop don't know how fast it is but it is pretty scary, haven't lost thust power to weight in any vertical climbs, just keeps gettin smaller and smaller and then it is into the clouds....way up there where you cant hear it anymore!

B

Here is John Campbells F-27C it is awsome!

B

Originally Posted by crosborne

Respect the Lipo!! Treat them well and they will treat you well. If you don't k now what you are doing you can swell one or burn one up.

I crashed my "C" model so I clipped the wings to get rid of the messed up parts, got a new servo and made new tail fins too. The next Stryker body will have the orange and black tiger scheme depicted on the tail fins.

Dude!!! that F-27B nose cone really sets that thing up good!

B