Nov 24, 2012, 06:07 PM
OFF TOPIC POSTER
Des Moines IA
Joined Dec 2005
4,897 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo eck, It's not making complete sense but it's sensible. Power goes up with the square of the voltage (or current), so you'd would expect to see around 596 Watts on 4s if you were going up from a baseline of 335 Watts for 3s. (4s/3s)^2 -> 1.78 and 1.78 x 335 Watts = 596 Watts Reality was 710W/335W -> 2.12 times increase in power. In your case the 3s pack had sagged more than the 4s pack, so the increase in power was a little higher than the expected calculations.335 Watts @ 32 Amps would be a 3s pack sagging down to 10.4 Volts 710 Watts @ 48 Amps would be a 4s pack sagging down to 14.8 Volts (14.8/10.4)^2 -> 2.02 and 2.02 x 335 Watts = 676 Watts With your current measurements you'd expect (48A/32A)^2 -> 2.25 and 2.25 x 335 Watts = 754 Watts I think the difference between all these numbers (754/710/676) probably boils down to round off on the current, i.e. fractions of an amp.
Thanks much.
I also had to lower the timing to 8khz to make the motor happy.
 Dec 02, 2012, 04:31 PM Registered User Joined Aug 2004 978 Posts Anyone know the "No-load" current of a MEGA 16/25/1,5R? possibly at 10 volts. Thanks
Dec 09, 2012, 02:29 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
4,277 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by tho98027 Anyone know the "No-load" current of a MEGA 16/25/1,5R? possibly at 10 volts. Thanks
I don't have the answer you are looking for.

____

If you have not bought it yet...instead of that one; Consider running 16/30/2 D

KV wise: (With same turns & same size)
D = 1.72 Y (I think not more than 1.75 Y)

It maybe more robust than 16/25/1.5RY

____

***Hope your other project turned out nice.

Gryphon
Dec 09, 2012, 11:02 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2004
978 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by GryphonRCU I don't have the answer you are looking for. ____ If you have not bought it yet...instead of that one; Consider running 16/30/2 D KV wise: (With same turns & same size) D = 1.72 Y (I think not more than 1.75 Y) It maybe more robust than 16/25/1.5RY ____ ***Hope your other project turned out nice. Gryphon
Hi gryphon, I actually just got the motor back yesterday. I am extremely impressed with how it turned out. That end cap is beefy and the cooling holes are huge. I was a little worried the motor would be marred during the upgrade, but there is not a scratch! Im very impressed with Mega's work. Thanks so much for making this happen. You are a good dude. Thanks man.
 Dec 13, 2012, 06:42 PM Registered User Yuma, AZ Joined Oct 2003 507 Posts Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work. Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work. Thanks, Steve
Dec 14, 2012, 02:04 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
4,692 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by splais Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work. Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work. Thanks, Steve
Rudder?
 Dec 14, 2012, 07:49 AM Registered User Yuma, AZ Joined Oct 2003 507 Posts Oh shoot, what an idiot - me, not you. Yes I'll find it. Thanks for showing me the obvious
Jan 03, 2013, 05:46 AM
Not a newbie anymore..
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,239 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by splais Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work. Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work. Thanks, Steve
Here you go the manual,should be in here some where..

http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/9c-su...ies-manual.pdf
 Jan 06, 2013, 01:24 PM Registered User United States, FL, West Melbourne Joined May 2011 2,021 Posts Two questions, I am starting a new one with a blank I bought a while back. Sanding off the mold bits for now. Initially I will use the existing power plant. and will eventually rebuild the original. So here goes 1. I want a nice smooth finish and I like the lightweight gliding. I was thinking of coating with a spackle/water/paint mix for finish or paint with WBPU and laying down a little silkspan. Anyone got some advice? Second, what would a 30 amp setup give me over the stock motor?
Jan 07, 2013, 02:41 AM
Not a newbie anymore..
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,239 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by splais Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work. Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work. Thanks, Steve
Steve
Did you get sorted with your mix?
Jan 07, 2013, 03:18 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
4,692 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Rickflaguy Two questions, I am starting a new one with a blank I bought a while back. Sanding off the mold bits for now. Initially I will use the existing power plant. and will eventually rebuild the original. So here goes 1. I want a nice smooth finish and I like the lightweight gliding. I was thinking of coating with a spackle/water/paint mix for finish or paint with WBPU and laying down a little silkspan. Anyone got some advice? Second, what would a 30 amp setup give me over the stock motor?
1) Check post #15317 about "Popcorning". http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t#post22849157
I believe this is the best way to get the strength and finish you're looking for.

2) 30A on what voltage? 30A on a 3S LiPo will not be very different from the stock Stryker C. Not what I would consider an "upgrade" anyway.

Jan 07, 2013, 04:20 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
2,021 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx 1) Check post #15317 about "Popcorning". http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t#post22849157 I believe this is the best way to get the strength and finish you're looking for. 2) 30A on what voltage? 30A on a 3S LiPo will not be very different from the stock Stryker C. Not what I would consider an "upgrade" anyway.
Forgot it is a 2950kv
 Jan 07, 2013, 07:32 AM Registered User Yuma, AZ Joined Oct 2003 507 Posts Yes, got it done. ProMix 1 - offset to rudder 1; ProMix 2 - offset to rudder 2, both on same switch. Thanks.
Jan 07, 2013, 08:16 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
4,692 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Rickflaguy Forgot it is a 2950kv
Do you have a link to the motor specs? Which prop and lipo are you planning to use?
Jan 07, 2013, 09:28 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
2,021 Posts
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx Do you have a link to the motor specs? Which prop and lipo are you planning to use?
Typo there. 2450 kv Links below