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Old Nov 24, 2012, 07:07 PM
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Des Moines IA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
eck,

It's not making complete sense but it's sensible. Power goes up with the square of the voltage (or current), so you'd would expect to see around 596 Watts on 4s if you were going up from a baseline of 335 Watts for 3s. (4s/3s)^2 -> 1.78 and 1.78 x 335 Watts = 596 Watts

Reality was 710W/335W -> 2.12 times increase in power.

In your case the 3s pack had sagged more than the 4s pack, so the increase in power was a little higher than the expected calculations.
335 Watts @ 32 Amps would be a 3s pack sagging down to 10.4 Volts
710 Watts @ 48 Amps would be a 4s pack sagging down to 14.8 Volts
(14.8/10.4)^2 -> 2.02 and 2.02 x 335 Watts = 676 Watts

With your current measurements you'd expect (48A/32A)^2 -> 2.25 and 2.25 x 335 Watts = 754 Watts

I think the difference between all these numbers (754/710/676) probably boils down to round off on the current, i.e. fractions of an amp.
Thanks much.
I also had to lower the timing to 8khz to make the motor happy.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Anyone know the "No-load" current of a MEGA 16/25/1,5R? possibly at 10 volts. Thanks
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tho98027 View Post
Anyone know the "No-load" current of a MEGA 16/25/1,5R? possibly at 10 volts. Thanks
I don't have the answer you are looking for.

____

If you have not bought it yet...instead of that one; Consider running 16/30/2 D

KV wise: (With same turns & same size)
D = 1.72 Y (I think not more than 1.75 Y)

It maybe more robust than 16/25/1.5RY

____

***Hope your other project turned out nice.

Gryphon
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
I don't have the answer you are looking for.

____

If you have not bought it yet...instead of that one; Consider running 16/30/2 D

KV wise: (With same turns & same size)
D = 1.72 Y (I think not more than 1.75 Y)

It maybe more robust than 16/25/1.5RY

____

***Hope your other project turned out nice.

Gryphon
Hi gryphon, I actually just got the motor back yesterday. I am extremely impressed with how it turned out. That end cap is beefy and the cooling holes are huge. I was a little worried the motor would be marred during the upgrade, but there is not a scratch! Im very impressed with Mega's work. Thanks so much for making this happen. You are a good dude. Thanks man.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Yuma, AZ
Joined Oct 2003
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Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work.

Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work.

Thanks, Steve
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splais View Post
Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work.

Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work.

Thanks, Steve
Rudder?
Better ask in the Stryker Q thread.....
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Oh shoot, what an idiot - me, not you. Yes I'll find it. Thanks for showing me the obvious
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 06:46 AM
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Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splais View Post
Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work.

Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work.

Thanks, Steve
Here you go the manual,should be in here some where..

http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/9c-su...ies-manual.pdf
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 02:24 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Two questions, I am starting a new one with a blank I bought a while back. Sanding off the mold bits for now.

Initially I will use the existing power plant. and will eventually rebuild the original. So here goes

1. I want a nice smooth finish and I like the lightweight gliding. I was thinking of coating with a spackle/water/paint mix for finish or paint with WBPU and laying down a little silkspan. Anyone got some advice?

Second, what would a 30 amp setup give me over the stock motor?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 03:41 AM
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Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splais View Post
Need a little help, searched and can't find it. I have a futaba 9c flying my Stryker. I've tried the spectrum programming I've found but doesn't work.

Can someone tell me were I might find futaba programming for rudder speed brakes? I already have the rudders on separate channels. I've tried rudder to flap mixing, but that didn't work.

Thanks, Steve
Steve
Did you get sorted with your mix?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 04:18 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Norway, Telemark, Skien
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Two questions, I am starting a new one with a blank I bought a while back. Sanding off the mold bits for now.

Initially I will use the existing power plant. and will eventually rebuild the original. So here goes

1. I want a nice smooth finish and I like the lightweight gliding. I was thinking of coating with a spackle/water/paint mix for finish or paint with WBPU and laying down a little silkspan. Anyone got some advice?

Second, what would a 30 amp setup give me over the stock motor?
1) Check post #15317 about "Popcorning". http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t#post22849157
I believe this is the best way to get the strength and finish you're looking for.

2) 30A on what voltage? 30A on a 3S LiPo will not be very different from the stock Stryker C. Not what I would consider an "upgrade" anyway.

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Old Jan 07, 2013, 05:20 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
1) Check post #15317 about "Popcorning". http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t#post22849157
I believe this is the best way to get the strength and finish you're looking for.

2) 30A on what voltage? 30A on a 3S LiPo will not be very different from the stock Stryker C. Not what I would consider an "upgrade" anyway.

Forgot it is a 2950kv
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 08:32 AM
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Yuma, AZ
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Yes, got it done. ProMix 1 - offset to rudder 1; ProMix 2 - offset to rudder 2, both on same switch. Thanks.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
Forgot it is a 2950kv
Do you have a link to the motor specs? Which prop and lipo are you planning to use?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:28 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
Do you have a link to the motor specs? Which prop and lipo are you planning to use?
Typo there. 2450 kv Links below

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ushless/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ushless/Detail
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