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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:00 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Arcteryxxx's Avatar
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
I still have 9 ready to get MOPARIZED !!
Only got 5
Losses in 2012: NIL (so far). But then again the moldies have been in focus lately.
Will start a ultralight build soon 30gram motor, 2S700 life and totally stripped. Should float well
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Welcome to the first step !!
Personally, I think there are WAY better ways to re-enforce the airframe than to use polycrillic ........... isnt polycrillic just watered down Elmers glue ?

You stand a MUCH better chance at having a very rigid, reliable Stryker if you dont use any polycrillic, or Elmers glue, and you wont suffer any disappointments due to the stuff cracking or the glass pulling away from the airframe after 50 flights.

To the powertrain ..................
Do you need an ESC as well ?
In this 100-200 dollar budget ................ how much can you afford towards the motor ?
Thanks for the welcome. Im excited about getting myself a "hot rod stryker" as I have said at least a time or twenty..."If I could only afford to own 2 planes, one of them definitely would be a stryker!". Its just I really would like to go a lot faster! Once I build the "hot rod", I plan on lighting up my stock one and have a nice night flying stryker to add to my night flyer hangar.

Anyway...back to the point. I only presumed polycrylic because I had read so much about people using it to "glass" their strykers with. By all means, if there is a better, more durable way...Im all ears, well eyes...here.

I figured that if I had to use most of my 200 dollar ceiling of my budget to ESC and motor...so be it. I can buy cheaper batteries for the time being if what I have wont suffice.

I am not opposed to HK or the Turnigy brand. I have a couple of their motors in some small 30ish size 3D planes and have had good results...but for this application...something a little better may be preferred. I have been looking at the ARC motors on LightFlights site...but just dont really know which one I should get.

I do have some ESC's I have at least 1 100 amp (not HV) and a 60. I dont recall the brand without digging in the spares box. I think the 60 I have doesnt even have a lable on it as I got it used and only know its a 60 because thats what the previous owner told me....I do know it has no internal BEC, so a UBEC would be in order...which I have as well. The 100 has internal BEC, I know this for certain.

As far as the customrc mount goes. I feel I should wait till a motor, at least circumefernce size is decided upon...at this point I dont know if I should go with a 28mm or something larger, and of course that will need to be known before I order the mount I think.

If I end up with 300 in this all done, I'll be ok with that I guess...but I really would like to keep as close to 200 or less IF I could. We dont fly our Strykers that much...Id say if it gets 50 flights a season would be pushing it. Its usually 2 or 3 of us at the end of the day will put them in the air all to ourselves and chase each other around. We do this for one or two packs every so often, not every week. So I hope that helps explain why I dont want to have a huge investment in a plane that will get used so little.

So...would an ARC motor get me there? If my ESC's are sufficient, that is? If I can get away with the 100amp one I have now...that would save money to put elsewhere.

Thanks for the post


Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
There are quite a few threads for you to study to get to where you want. E.g. the blogs og Moparmyway, Murdnunoc and Peter M.
To get the speed you want and still have an easy hand launch capability, you should aim for appx 1200watts on a 6.5 or 7 inch prop in a model with AUW about 1.5 kilos.
First: order that customrcparts mount and some 5mm CF tubes, balsa TE- profiles and slow curing epoxy. Second: get your heat gun and some micro balloons (or Talcum powder) ready:-)
The dudes will chime in, I'm sure

Btw: forget the polycrylic.
PS: feel free to browse my blog too...
Sorry...I mentioned why I havent bought the customrc mount in the mopar reply..lol

I'll check out all of the blogs for sure, thanks. I feel like I have read so much the past couple days about this topic that my head is starting to hurt! LOL

I dont feel as if I am a complete electric "n00b" as I do have several smaller electrics and all of my helis are electric aside from one nitro Raptor 50. Its just I want to be more sure of what I need to get for my needs since there is a TON of stryker stuff out here on the net and I dont know how to tell which way I should go.

After finding this thread and over 1000 posts...I figured someone could point me in the right direction or even give me a dead set list of the power system to put me close to my goal.

Thanks for the post.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:27 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
Arcteryxxx's Avatar
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
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Which 100A esc do you have? If you could post the specs it would sure help determine the budget left for the candy.
One thing is spending greens on HW, but it will be useless if you don't know what to do when you build your bird. Light&strong are the key factors!

Mopar: could you please post a link to your RCU thread? It's still holding geat value, you know (I would do it myself, but you know; iPhone, Tapatalk and fat fingers... )
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
Which 100A esc do you have? If you could post the specs it would sure help determine the budget left for the candy.
One thing is spending greens on HW, but it will be useless if you don't know what to do when you build your bird. Light&strong are the key factors!

Mopar: could you please post a link to your RCU thread? It's still holding geat value, you know (I would do it myself, but you know; iPhone, Tapatalk and fat fingers... )
Its a Sky WIng...or basically a HobbyWing or Turnigy as I can program it with the same card that I have programmed those with.

Here are the specs I copied pasted from just now finding it online...

Size: 83* 40* 22.3 mm
Constant Current: 100A
Max Current: 110A
BEC output: 5A
Input Volt: 6 - 22.2V (2-6 LIPO / 4 - 20 NIMH)
Low-Voltage Cutoff: Auto detect and set
Advantage of Sky Wing Speed Controller :
Low resistence
High rate PWM
Sixteen cells Max
Low torque start
Soft start ramp up
User programmable brake
Auto motor cutoff with reset
Throttle range self-adjusting
Auto shut down when signal is lost
Low voltage auto setting based on battery
Safe power arming program ensures motor will not run accidentally after turn on

Its definitely not a high dollar ESC. I really have these as a "just keep um" on an order I made some time ago that came in wrong. I ended up with 2 or 3 of them and I havent had any issues with the applications they have been in thus far.

I agree with you 100%...the lighter the better! Same way with my Yaks and couple of other 3D planes I have, so I will definitely keep that in mind here too.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 09:50 PM
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After reading over the blogs a while tonight, I think I might have found a setup that will do exactly what I want to do. It came from page 1 of Mopar's blog.

I plan to do everything I already described to mod my airframe and glass it, using thinned epoxy in place of polycrylic.

Go with the Mega 16/30/2 motor and customrc 28mm mount. I assume I should use a sink as well? Any recommendations?

I'll use my current 100a ESC (unless it wont suffice, then recommendations are welcome).

What Im not clear on is a selection of batteries to use. I currently have 2 2250 30c's I could pair up for the 3s power...I also have a 4s 3300 20c pack I could use,

I like the idea of this setup being versatile in speeds of mild to slightly wild, for my taste at the current anyway. Just change prop, batts or both. nice

Could you comment on what size batts in 3 and 4s as well as a selection of props to buy while Im gathering this?

I feel using this setup will keep me close in my budget...not counting the batteries. But thats ok by me.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 03:43 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Originally Posted by ATVAlliance View Post
I plan to do everything I already described to mod my airframe and glass it, using thinned epoxy in place of polycrylic.

Go with the Mega 16/30/2 motor and customrc 28mm mount. I assume I should use a sink as well? Any recommendations?

I'll use my current 100a ESC (unless it wont suffice, then recommendations are welcome).

What Im not clear on is a selection of batteries to use. I currently have 2 2250 30c's I could pair up for the 3s power...I also have a 4s 3300 20c pack I could use,

I like the idea of this setup being versatile in speeds of mild to slightly wild, for my taste at the current anyway. Just change prop, batts or both. nice

Could you comment on what size batts in 3 and 4s as well as a selection of props to buy while Im gathering this?

I feel using this setup will keep me close in my budget...not counting the batteries. But thats ok by me.
Please do NOT thin epoxy !!!!
Continue reading that blog and get to where I describe how to "popcorn" the epoxy and foam. All you need is a heatgun or a hairdryer !

16-30-2 ..........................
Go for the 16-30-F5De if you can ............... it will give you WAY more prop and battery choices !!! (and you can have those HUGE openings in the shields (end caps) to allow gobs of cooling air .............. its an option on F5D motors .......... see pictures in post #15241)

Both examples of batteries you have will be just fine, and so will your ESC !
I have this motor, so if you want prop test data, just pick your prop and cell count and I will give you the scoop !!!

3 cells and an APC E 8x4 is just a rediculousely fun setup, but you better keep those verticals glued tight (and you wont be able to use the stock ones) because that 8" prop will suck the verticals right into the rotating prop .................. ask me how I know this !!!

Here is Part 8 link ...................... more reading !!!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8867370/tm.htm
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 04:43 AM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
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Originally Posted by arcteryxxx View Post
... Good to see some action around here again
+1
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
Please do NOT thin epoxy !!!!
Continue reading that blog and get to where I describe how to "popcorn" the epoxy and foam. All you need is a heatgun or a hairdryer !

16-30-2 ..........................
Go for the 16-30-F5De if you can ............... it will give you WAY more prop and battery choices !!! (and you can have those HUGE openings in the shields (end caps) to allow gobs of cooling air .............. its an option on F5D motors .......... see pictures in post #15241)

Both examples of batteries you have will be just fine, and so will your ESC !
I have this motor, so if you want prop test data, just pick your prop and cell count and I will give you the scoop !!!

3 cells and an APC E 8x4 is just a rediculousely fun setup, but you better keep those verticals glued tight (and you wont be able to use the stock ones) because that 8" prop will suck the verticals right into the rotating prop .................. ask me how I know this !!!

Here is Part 8 link ...................... more reading !!!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8867370/tm.htm
Ok...I wont thin the epoxy. I had no idea that was a "no-no" as ive done it for fuelproofing firewalls and such in the past as well as glassed some interior areas around landing gear blocks this way too with good results. But again, Im new and learn something all the time.

As far as that motor, 16-30-F5De...I dont see it listed on the effluxrc site. Is there somewhere else to purchase? How much more is it than the 16/30/2 as that motor was already at the upper limits of what I really wanted to invest in the motor. And speaking of motors...may as well state now that its probably a good idea to have a Plan A consisting of the Mega motor and Plan B maybe consisting of a cheaper alternative such as the ARC motor that will be a close match to what is suggested for Plan A. I only say this because I may want to invest in Plan B and spend the extra money on some really good batteries. I do know that there is a difference in performance. My "cheapo" packs would only give me 74mph out of a dive on my stock "C". A friend let me try one of his TP packs and it increased same dive radar to 78. While tailwind could just as easily been credited...that day it was almost dead calm, so I think it definitely was the better pack giving me the extra 4mph.

I already had planned on making new verticals out of light ply, so no worries there. Also had planned on making the new ones a tad shorter...maybe 2/3 the height of the factory ones. Is this ok to do? Ive seen a lot of Strykers with shorter verticals and just assumed people were doing it for a reason, not just for looks.

On the elevons. I had seen someone made a video on how to do them. I also have been reading your RCU thread with pics on how to do it. Your way is exactly as I remember the video...other than the guy in the video cut more of the trailing edge away...actually cut all the way back to the "divots" where the factory hinges go...thus eliminating them and putting the trailing edge basswood there. That made the elevon about 2" if I recall. Is this a no no? I know you said you like 1.5 elevons. And I would rather cut all of the divots out so I dont have to fill them in...thus saving weight too. But if 2" elevons is a no no, I'll take your word for it and not go there.

Im not so sure about an 8" prop. I mean that sounds like a perfect combo for sliced n diced fingers! I hand launch my stocker myself with no issues, but I have seen what the stock prop can do to fingers...I used to always have someone launch for me until the last guy (no real experience in hand launching a stryker) cut his finger pretty bad doing it for me. I felt terrible so from that point on I just learned to do it myself. I hate that me wanting to fly caused him a nasty cut! So, maybe a bungee launch is going to be needed afterall. Any input on a cheap reliable stryker bungee system will be appreciated as well.

Again, thanks for all of the info so far. Im going to start my list today and get some parts on order soon. Im glad to be the one to revive this thread, at least for a little while. Ive been wanting a fast stryker for some time now but did not want to modify my stocker. Wasnt till recently I came across this new in the bag airframe to start my venture into 100+MPH stryker awesomenuss! lol

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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:37 AM
Some call me the other guy!
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Milwaukie , Oregon
Joined Feb 2003
4,426 Posts
Here is something you can try, It worked great on my last little stryker I built for a buddy.
Get some west Marine Expoy.
Put a 3rd less hardner in, mix it good!
then get you some netrile gloves and put some in you hands and smear it all over the fuse.
Make sure you just putting a thin coat all over the fuse.
Then hang it from the nose and leave it in a warm room for 24 hours.
Don't worry it will mostly drip on the floor before it dries. So put some old newspaper under it and wait.
When it hardens it will be way better than the Poly.
If you want you can get some of the lightest fiberglass weave ( most hobby shops carry it).
Lay it on the leading and trailing edges about a hour in or when it get tacky!
Keep the cup or can you mixed it in near so you can tell when it gets hard as a rock.
After that you can paint it with a spary can.
My little stryker was done that way and it is also very stiff. My buddy tryed to ctach it one day, then he tryed to duck because it was coming in to fast.
His head looked like someone hit him with a bat!
LOL!
Hope that helps!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 12:14 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATVAlliance View Post
1. Ok...I wont thin the epoxy. I had no idea that was a "no-no" as ive done it for fuelproofing firewalls and such in the past as well as glassed some interior areas around landing gear blocks this way too with good results. But again, Im new and learn something all the time.

2. As far as that motor, 16-30-F5De...I dont see it listed on the effluxrc site. Is there somewhere else to purchase? How much more is it than the 16/30/2 as that motor was already at the upper limits of what I really wanted to invest in the motor.

3. And speaking of motors...may as well state now that its probably a good idea to have a Plan A consisting of the Mega motor and Plan B maybe consisting of a cheaper alternative such as the ARC motor that will be a close match to what is suggested for Plan A. I only say this because I may want to invest in Plan B and spend the extra money on some really good batteries. I do know that there is a difference in performance.

4. I already had planned on making new verticals out of light ply, so no worries there. Also had planned on making the new ones a tad shorter...maybe 2/3 the height of the factory ones. Is this ok to do? Ive seen a lot of Strykers with shorter verticals and just assumed people were doing it for a reason, not just for looks.

5. On the elevons. I had seen someone made a video on how to do them. I also have been reading your RCU thread with pics on how to do it. Your way is exactly as I remember the video...other than the guy in the video cut more of the trailing edge away...actually cut all the way back to the "divots" where the factory hinges go...thus eliminating them and putting the trailing edge basswood there. That made the elevon about 2" if I recall. Is this a no no? I know you said you like 1.5 elevons. And I would rather cut all of the divots out so I dont have to fill them in...thus saving weight too. But if 2" elevons is a no no, I'll take your word for it and not go there.

6. Im not so sure about an 8" prop. I mean that sounds like a perfect combo for sliced n diced fingers! I hand launch my stocker myself with no issues, but I have seen what the stock prop can do to fingers

7. So, maybe a bungee launch is going to be needed afterall. Any input on a cheap reliable stryker bungee system will be appreciated as well.
1. Thinning epoxy will allow it to loose some of its strength. We are looking to have it not only coat the fuse and act as a protective "skin", but to also give it some additional strength and stiffness.

2. PM Gryphon for some help/direction in getting that 16-30-F5Dec

3. I would rather see you get a better motor than an ARC. They tend to have shaft issues and end cap issues. The MEGA will allow you to get a 5mm shaft, no other 28mm inrunner will give you that. You wont bend it like you will any other. ARC and HET are 3.2mm ................. Rocket motors are better than ARC and they come with 4mm shafts. IMHO, dont waste any $$ on anything unless it has a 5mm shaft

4. You can make them shorter, just remember that when in the air, they will put the Stryker on rails, and allow you to tailor your CG. I would keep them large or long, you can allways trim if necessary

5. DO NOT cut away any foam !! Attach the bass trailing edge to the trailing edge with hot glue, or whatever method you preferr. You can allways leave the divots there and fill with lightweight spackle before epoxy, or not fill at all and install some wipers on the elevons. The wipers will cover the divots easily and save you some weight. We want the elevons as far rearward as possible for authority when landing at slower speeds

6. I routinely hand launch my 8" propped Strykers without any issues. You MUST concentrate @ launch and focus on the follow through. Specifically, throw it up at like 10-11 O'Clock and follow through with your throw ............ make your hand slap your thigh to get it out of the way ............ all in 1 quick motion. Look at my avatar, that 8" prop clears my hand by over 12" ..................... just follow through and slap your thigh. Most Dudes cut their fingers when they leave their hand up after letting go ............... even a 5.5" prop will hit your fingers if you leave them up there.
Hand launching a 5 pound Stryker with crazy power (3 min 40 sec)


7. On my 6 pounder I use a hosemonster 1/4" bungee. It wont be necessary for you if you follow through. I only use it to get the heavies up in the air, not to get an 8" prop up for flight .................... although it is all about your comfort level, so you have to decide on your own there. You can allways run some of the APC E 7" props to begin with while your confidence level increases

8. OK, there is no #8, I just got a little carried away ................... I was thinking of flying my Stryker !!!
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 01:58 PM
ILLSMOQ
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Dec 2004
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I'm suprised more people don't make the airframe more riged with carbon and then monocoat. I build mine with flat carbon pieces installed vertically, then use smaller pieces to connect to the larger pieces and wig tips/corners. I basically give it a carbon skeleton. Then I monocoat the whole thing. I've had planes hit the ground at high speed come back with minimal damage. Usually they end up a bit crumpled but the monocoat holds it together and you can iron out the wrinkles.

this stryker feels like a piece of plywood with a layer of foam on it.


this funjet hit the ground at around 150 mph (complete melt down), smaller plane was doing around 100 when it hit the ground.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 07:21 AM
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United States, PA, Center Valley
Joined Dec 2008
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Got some .210 CF tubing, bass wood stock and aileron stock yesterday. Also ordered the 36MM Mega CustomRCparts motor mount.
This will probably be a slow build. Motor is in the works, (thanks for the help Gryphon) but probably will be a while till I get it. Can't wait to see this new motor!
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 08:45 PM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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Brolley,

Your ordered motor is the best version of the one you pictured above.

Yours will:
Handle more AMPs.
Handle more cells,

Therefore with proper setup, yours can be more powerful and more efficient at the same time.
The order should be seen by manufacturer on Monday.

Not sure if it will come black or green case...if you have particular requirement then it may delay the order somewhat.
If you require black, i doubt it will add delay.
Otherwise, let's just see how it comes.

16/X F5D comes in green case (Mega standard).
I think Mopar's 22/40 F5D E came in black case...not sure what the standard is on 22/X F5D case color.

Have fun,
Gryph
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 03:48 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
I think Mopar's 22/40 F5D E came in black case...

I allways love an impromptu invitation to post some Badasss MEGA pictures !!

It sure did come as a black motor !!!
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by moparmyway View Post
1. Thinning epoxy will allow it to loose some of its strength. We are looking to have it not only coat the fuse and act as a protective "skin", but to also give it some additional strength and stiffness.

2. PM Gryphon for some help/direction in getting that 16-30-F5Dec

3. I would rather see you get a better motor than an ARC. They tend to have shaft issues and end cap issues. The MEGA will allow you to get a 5mm shaft, no other 28mm inrunner will give you that. You wont bend it like you will any other. ARC and HET are 3.2mm ................. Rocket motors are better than ARC and they come with 4mm shafts. IMHO, dont waste any $$ on anything unless it has a 5mm shaft

4. You can make them shorter, just remember that when in the air, they will put the Stryker on rails, and allow you to tailor your CG. I would keep them large or long, you can allways trim if necessary

5. DO NOT cut away any foam !! Attach the bass trailing edge to the trailing edge with hot glue, or whatever method you preferr. You can allways leave the divots there and fill with lightweight spackle before epoxy, or not fill at all and install some wipers on the elevons. The wipers will cover the divots easily and save you some weight. We want the elevons as far rearward as possible for authority when landing at slower speeds

6. I routinely hand launch my 8" propped Strykers without any issues. You MUST concentrate @ launch and focus on the follow through. Specifically, throw it up at like 10-11 O'Clock and follow through with your throw ............ make your hand slap your thigh to get it out of the way ............ all in 1 quick motion. Look at my avatar, that 8" prop clears my hand by over 12" ..................... just follow through and slap your thigh. Most Dudes cut their fingers when they leave their hand up after letting go ............... even a 5.5" prop will hit your fingers if you leave them up there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vM_w-3ziZ2U

7. On my 6 pounder I use a hosemonster 1/4" bungee. It wont be necessary for you if you follow through. I only use it to get the heavies up in the air, not to get an 8" prop up for flight .................... although it is all about your comfort level, so you have to decide on your own there. You can allways run some of the APC E 7" props to begin with while your confidence level increases

8. OK, there is no #8, I just got a little carried away ................... I was thinking of flying my Stryker !!!
Sorry for my late reply, but was busy all weekend....actually got some flying in yesterday till the edge of dark, then home to hold the couch down the rest of the night and never even looked in the direction of the computer.

Anyway...I understand on why not to thin the epoxy. I just thought it would be ok to be able to thin it out enough to save on sanding/weight. I'll search your other RCU thread on how to "popcorn" it. I did read something about a stryker you dubbed "popcorn", but didnt realize I missed the part about it being a "process". Anyway....

I PM'd Gryphon just now so hopefully he will put me onto the pricing/vendor to buy the other motor mentioned. Still havent decided on what I will order...but I want to have all of the options in front of me so I can choose what best fits my needs based on budget.

I went to LHS on Saturday to buy some of the things I knew (well thought) they would have. Only thing I left with was some inadequate bass stock (I dont know if its thick enough at 1/4 inch) and a sheet of 3/16 ply to make the elevons. No elevon (ahem...aileron stock) to be had! Also, all out of .210 CF rod as well. Not even any strip either. So looks like I will just start a parts sheet and see if I can locate all of this stuff online. Its an hour round trip to the LHS for me...so its not that local, ya'know? LOL

I wont cut away more than needed on the trailing edge. I just remember seeing a video of someone that made like 2" elevons and cut out the entire divot area. I measured STOCK stryker and from the divot to the end of elevon is exactly 2 inches...so it would basically make the elevon 2 inches. I'll stick with your tried and true method as I dont like a lot of throw and would think that an extra half inch of elevon would probably make it more twitchy...I dont know. BTW...what is a "wiper"?

I can easily hand launch my stock stryker...so after I get this fast one together and see how it feels, I'll determine if I need to buy a bungee launch. A guy in our club has one and I can use his Im sure till I get one ordered. IF I do decide to bungee launch...is the plastic stock stryker hook ok for it? If so...how do you secure it so the bungee doesnt rip it out? Do you tie it into the front to back CF rod you install? Inquiring minds want to know! lol

Thanks for all of the replies and PM's from everyone thus far. I cant wait to get this thing together and shock and awe the guys at the club. I think the fastest one anyone has ever seen at our club field has been right around the 100MPH mark, and that dude isnt in the club any longer. So right now...id say the fastest one is around the mid 80's mark.

ATV
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