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Old May 03, 2012, 09:16 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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OK, best prep for a new Fuse. Before glassing etc.

Best sanding material

Cleaning fluid? Isopropyl?

You guys have build more of these than anyone I know.

After prep, best lightweight treatment? WPU, Epoxy?

Thanks in advance

Rick
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Old May 04, 2012, 12:09 AM
Flying Free
erashby's Avatar
Utah
Joined Aug 2001
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stick motor mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
OK, I can buy a Q setup (motor and ESC from a local friend. I need a cheap mount so I can buy the motor and ESC. Later I will upgrade. Any ideas? Is the stick in a groove a no go or is it a good start for now?
The stick mount is a sturdy mount. I have crashed my 300W wing at about 70 mph and the motor mount remained undamaged and the thrust angle unchanged. The key is to keep the mass of the motor as close to in-line with the stick. Here are some picks of my motor mount setup. The motor mount is $1.95 at headsuprc.com.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...sh--for/Detail
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Old May 04, 2012, 12:25 AM
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Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
OK, best prep for a new Fuse. Before glassing etc.
Best sanding material
Cleaning fluid? Isopropyl?
You guys have build more of these than anyone I know.
After prep, best lightweight treatment? WPU, Epoxy?
Thanks in advance

Rick
IMO glassing is not worth the hassle and is harder to repair.
I ultra coated my last stryker, but also would not recommend that (see pics below). My next Stryker will be laminated. It is stronger than ultracoat or monokote. It is as easy to do as any iron on coating. It really stiffens up the foam. It looks just as good as glassing, well when the plane is flying and atleast 20 feet away.
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Old May 04, 2012, 03:29 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
OK, best prep for a new Fuse. Before glassing etc.

Best sanding material

Cleaning fluid? Isopropyl?

You guys have build more of these than anyone I know.

After prep, best lightweight treatment? WPU, Epoxy?

Thanks in advance

Rick
Build it with CF tubing, minimum number determined by intended max speed

Coat the fuse with a good epoxy (with glass if you wish) and heat treat it, then let it cure 2-3 days (no cleaning fluid necessary this way)

Best sanding material .................. you wont need any this way !
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Old May 04, 2012, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erashby View Post
IMO glassing is not worth the hassle and is harder to repair.
I ultra coated my last stryker, but also would not recommend that (see pics below). My next Stryker will be laminated. It is stronger than ultracoat or monokote. It is as easy to do as any iron on coating. It really stiffens up the foam. It looks just as good as glassing, well when the plane is flying and atleast 20 feet away.
Pardon the idiot newbie question but laminating is ?

The LHS guy told me someone in Satellite beach (Florida) sells an epoxy blend made just for glassing fc foam. Anyone hear of them?
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Old May 04, 2012, 05:13 AM
...just an earth bound misfit
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laminating, in this context, is... frequently a transparent thermoplastic covering with a thin film of hot melt adhesive on one side. More or less the same stuff as is used to make plastic coated ID badges. For example http://www.alofthobbies.com/new-stuff-5mil.html

more info... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790302

Also, not to contradict the elders but I like a quick wipe of acetone and then alcohol, on a paper towel, to clean up the oils off the surface of z-foam & epo. It doesn't damage the foam and I believe it helps any covering or coating adhere better.
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Old May 04, 2012, 08:02 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
Also, not to contradict the elders but I like a quick wipe of acetone and then alcohol, on a paper towel, to clean up the oils off the surface of z-foam & epo. It doesn't damage the foam and I believe it helps any covering or coating adhere better.
No contradiction .............
But please allow me to foray down the road a little ............this process is still very unfamiliar with lots of dudes.

With the heat treatment I suggest, (regardless of including glass or not) after painting on a coating of good epoxy, the foam opens up and sucks in the epoxy, much like capillary action and solder. This heat treating works on the foam as it is, no prep necessary. When the epoxy cures, you can paint right over it, then add another light coat of epoxy over your paint to protect the design, (no more heat treating) and you have yourself one very sturdy and strong piece of foam with an exoskeleton ........ a 3 dimensional epoxy/foam matrix that is just about impossible to "peel off" and wont crack or break off in pieces like if the foam was prepped with alcohol, acetone, or any other solvent/cleaner before covering with epoxy.
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Old May 04, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Ah, so you're applying heat to open the cells after you apply the first coat of epoxy, and then the cells shrink to clamp a thin film of epoxy when the heat comes off. That makes me one of the dudes who, duh, wasn't quite getting it from your original posts about popcorn.

Sounds like a technique to practice on some debris.

I had mistakenly thought that your process was to heat treat the surface, as one might to release dented foam, and then coat it - so it seemed like here you were suggesting heat to kick of the epoxy and flash volatile oils off the foam surface.

Thanks for taking the foray.
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Old May 04, 2012, 12:20 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
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Anytime Dude !!
The cells do not shrink when the heat comes off, they just stop popping and stay as is.

After you remove the heat, maybe they continue to "pop" for a second if you have applied too much heat, or got too close to the foam, but they definately do not shrink.

Best to do like you stated, try it on a piece of scrap. Once you get it just right, you will like the outcome.

Just remember, you need a good epoxy (1:1 vinyl based ones arent good) and let the epoxy cure for at least 2-3 days without touching or moving it, no matter what !!!
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Old May 05, 2012, 02:36 AM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
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Not a C but close......

Mega 22/50/1.5RE, 7 cell 4000 and Q40 7.4x7.5 make it go OK!

More details here - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=145 - if you are open to the way of the future....
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Last edited by Peter M; May 05, 2012 at 02:41 AM.
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Old May 05, 2012, 03:14 AM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Very cool, Peter!
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Old May 05, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Congratulations on your maiden Peter.

Gryphon
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:19 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
laminating, in this context, is... frequently a transparent thermoplastic covering with a thin film of hot melt adhesive on one side. More or less the same stuff as is used to make plastic coated ID badges. For example http://www.alofthobbies.com/new-stuff-5mil.html

more info... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790302

Also, not to contradict the elders but I like a quick wipe of acetone and then alcohol, on a paper towel, to clean up the oils off the surface of z-foam & epo. It doesn't damage the foam and I believe it helps any covering or coating adhere better.
I don't quite get the website. Giving 2 dimensions. 18'x5mil leaves an infinite set of lengths fro thin air to infinity. How long are the rolls and what kind of paint does it take?
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Old May 05, 2012, 12:43 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
I don't quite get the website. Giving 2 dimensions. 18'x5mil leaves an infinite set of lengths fro thin air to infinity. How long are the rolls and what kind of paint does it take?
Hmm, maybe this page will make it clear:

http://www.canuckengineering.com/new...mil-cp-18-wide

As to paint, google could probably get you there pretty quick:

http://www.google.ca/search?q=paint+...e:rcgroups.com
....http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1076935
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Old May 05, 2012, 01:24 PM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post
Mega 22/50/1.5RE, 7 cell 4000 and Q40 7.4x7.5 make it go OK!

More details here - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=145 - if you are open to the way of the future....
I am getting a stiffy !!!!!
Congrats on that awesome terror !!!!
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