Build Log Hkm 1:2.5 Asw 28

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Getting a little closer to getting the hard stuff done. Soon it will be on to mounting all the R/C gear and servos. More to come.

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I Ordered my insturments from Axel, http://www.axels-scale-pilots.de/d I used 1.2.5, and 1.3 sizes. Using several photos of full size, I went with somthing close to the ASW 28.

Mini Micro switches are from Raido Shack.

Texture is 3M rocker panel spray from auto paint store.

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Time to add the labels, I purchased a set of ASW 28 Labels from Eastern Sailplanes (the ASW 28 & 29 is now a black background the earlyer are white)

I then scanned them at 400 dpi into Corel Draw 11. I then printed them at 40% reduction onto a 8.5 X 11 acrylic permante sticky back, with a matte finish. This matte paper can be purchased from Scoreline, its called "labelblank". Just Google it.

I then sealed the paper with "Deft" brand clear satin wood finish, it darkens the inkjet print and puts a nice clear seal to the paper. I then use a new exacto blade and cut out the labels placing them where the full size labels are placed.

This works for all ASW and ASH 3.5 scale and up. What is great, the label sheets come will everything, even the on off for switches and fuse labels for the instrument panel.

Working on R/C install and cloth panels.

BFN

[SteveR]

Rick, the interior of your ASW is a knockout...kudos, kudos, kudos. Thanks for all the invaluable tips. I just received my Axel instruments for my PA-18 Cub and will use your techniques.

Question: How do you get such perfect holes in the fiberglass panel to mount the instruments? I would think the slightest boo boo would show like a sore thumb.

Can't wait to see it at this year's JR.

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Originally Posted by SteveR

Rick, the interior of your ASW is a knockout...kudos, kudos, kudos. Thanks for all the invaluable tips. I just received my Axel instruments for my PA-18 Cub and will use your techniques.

Question: How do you get such perfect holes in the fiberglass panel to mount the instruments? I would think the slightest boo boo would show like a sore thumb.

Can't wait to see it at this year's JR.

TIA,

Steve

Thanks Steve, First I use the templet to align the instruments. The holes are done with a dremel sanding drum, and I just keep fiting the instrument till it fits, I also use a small 1/2 round file. Since the holes need to be metric I just take my time. I did have to readjust the computer screen, so I used bondo and realined the screen.

Rick

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick. Thought you might enjoy a peek at the instrument panel of a 1:1.25 scale LO-100 built by Patrick Trauffer. I took these shots at the Interlaken aerotow last summer. He's an amazing craftsman. The plane weighs 80 kilos!

Steve

[scalebldr]

Originally Posted by SteveR

Thanks Rick. Thought you might enjoy a peek at the instrument panel of a 1:1.25 scale LO-100 built by Patrick Trauffer. I took these shots at the Interlaken aerotow last summer. He's an amazing craftsman. The plane weighs 80 kilos!

Steve

Ya, looking good! size does make a difference, at that scale things get more to full size proportions. That meet you went to looks like a great time. Maybe you should send the shots to me so we can post them on the ISSA site. Give a little info also, where when ect.....Rick

[SteveR]

Will do. Also planning to attend again this year. It is simply an amazing event, some of the most spectacular sailplanes from Germany, Switzerland, UK...and my little dinky ships from the U.S.!

Here's a link: http://www.tun.ch/

Click on the Events section and you'll see mention of Interlaken.

Regards,

Steve

[rshelby]

You can also use the step drills, (unibit I think they are called) to drill the holes. There is usually not a step that is the correct size, so drill to the next smaller size. Then use a cone shaped grinding bit that is larger than the holes to slowly grind to the correct size from the back side. This bit is used in the drill press for more control.

This method was detailed on the instructions I received from Axel with my instruments. My only deviation from his instructions was to use the small screws with matching nuts to bolt the instruments to the panel instead of gluing in the instruments and screws. I also bolted the instrument panel to the binnacle so it can easily be removed and replaced in the future if I want to change the instrument configuration.

Rick Shelby

[scalebldr]

Originally Posted by rshelby

You can also use the step drills, (unibit I think they are called) to drill the holes. There is usually not a step that is the correct size, so drill to the next smaller size. Then use a cone shaped grinding bit that is larger than the holes to slowly grind to the correct size from the back side. This bit is used in the drill press for more control.

This method was detailed on the instructions I received from Axel with my instruments. My only deviation from his instructions was to use the small screws with matching nuts to bolt the instruments to the panel instead of gluing in the instruments and screws. I also bolted the instrument panel to the binnacle so it can easily be removed and replaced in the future if I want to change the instrument configuration.

Rick Shelby

Hey Rick, good Idea. Where did you get the tools?

Rick

[rshelby]

[quote=scalebldr]Hey Rick, good Idea. Where did you get the tools?

I have had them so long I don't remember. Back then they were only made by one company and really hard to come by. They were one of my most prized tools. Luckily, these days they are made by several different companies and are available at most all hardware stores, including Home Depot and Lowes. Here is link to an internet source I found: http://tinyurl.com/2jm62l They are not cheap, but when you consider they are several bits in one, it makes it a little easier to spend the money. They also work well as deburring tools.

The beveled bits are called grinding points and ones I have are made for air grinders with a 1/4" shank. Here is a picture of what I am talking about: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ver16701.html They come in all shapes and sizes and are available at the same places as the unibits.

BTW, I used some 2mm G10 fiberglass sheet for the panel itself.

Rick

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I fashioned a switch platform and flat surface for the RX and Power Box System from light ply. I made holes in the standoffs for wires to pass through.

The aerotow release is a simple assembly with a Hitec 5645, I left access for balancing the C/G.

Batteries are mounted with velcro, as is all the R/C gear.

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The side panels are fashioned from poster board, ( from art supply’s or "Staples" ) and a 1/4 fiber filler, and a cloth of choice.

The layers of cloth, fiber filler and a cloth backing are all glued with 3M adhesive spray.

If you don't have skills for sewing things, this might be the time to have female input. I bet you could get this done for a night out on the town, you know, dinner and stuff.

After gluing all the materials together, I then sewed the seam lines to match the full size cockpit panels. I used tape to guide the seam lines.

I did a test fit by taping the panels in place and then trimmed the sides of the seat tray to seat on the mounts.

I then made a map pocket and mounted it to the side panel. The pocket has a copper wire at the top edge so I can shape it.

Let me know how dinner wet!

BFN

[SteveR]

LOOKING MIGHTY GOOOOOOODDDDD!

And of course knowing your eye for detail, you've got a map for each venue you fly at reflecting the actual terrain of each locale.

Rick, thanks very much for all the great tips. You sure know how to bring a cockpit to life. Can't wait to see this baby fly.

Regards,

Steve

[SteveR]

Rick, just heard from HKM that they completed the first test of the Schambeck up and go with the 28, got 5 climbs with it, not bad. I've requested photos and will post if they are sent to me. The Schambeck and related hardware cost about as much as a simple tug. You pay one way or the other!

Steve