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Old Jan 05, 2013, 10:29 PM
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As to who thought of it, I'd say probably nobody had a ureka moment. The chemists just knew it because they know the reactive properties of chemicals. My son is a chemist, so I might have an inflated opinion of their scientific intuition.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 10:05 PM
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United States, AZ, Chandler
Joined Jul 2011
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When scratch building I often want to lighten parts. One of my favorite ways is to simply bore holes in them. Wing ribs especially. When boring holes in plywood, I do it like everyone else - with a drill. When doing it in balsa, I use brass tubes with the ends sharpened. Seen here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1563292&page=2 (Photo far right, post #20.)

To sharpen those ends I use a reloader's case preparation tool known as a case deburring and chamfering tool.
Here is one example: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/389...deburring-tool
Here's another - identical to the one I use:http://www.midwayusa.com/product/789...er?cm_vc=subv1

These are hardened steel tools and will last you more than one lifetime.

Bill
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:34 PM
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That's a good tip.

I have used 1/16" balsa sheeting for wing ribs before, but I don't like using balsa that thin because it is extremely fragile, which makes it tough to work with. I prefer 1/8" balsa for wing ribs. But if I could use your hole-cutting lightening method, that might be better than trying to use fragile solid 1/16" sheet.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 07:54 PM
KE your cub.
Curare's Avatar
in the gutter, again....
Joined Jun 2005
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Split the difference, go for 3/32" ribs with the guts cut out of them
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 07:16 AM
I don't like your altitude
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And if you're working with soft balsa sheeting KEEP YOUR NAILS SHORT
don't ask.........
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:10 PM
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Germany
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My best low budget tool: wooden McDonalds coffee sticks. I use them for mixing, applying and removing excess (sanded to 45-60 deg) epoxy or to CA glue them to thin wood layers for stiffening. Stole large amounts of them until my local restaurant manager gave me a 500 pack.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sroge View Post
My best low budget tool: wooden McDonalds coffee sticks. I use them for mixing, applying and removing excess (sanded to 45-60 deg) epoxy or to CA glue them to thin wood layers for stiffening. Stole large amounts of them until my local restaurant manager gave me a 500 pack.
Yeah, me too. I raided a coffee shop at a book store for a year's supply of the little wooden sticks. I use them for the same things you do.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 08:43 PM
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And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG and good for antenna wires for those not using 2.4!
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tailskid2 View Post
And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG and good for antenna wires for those not using 2.4!
I call those big ol' McDonalds straws "Pipes". I guess "Conduits" would be more fitting for wire.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 03:19 PM
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work less than you think you should
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 04:50 PM
Entropy is happening!
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Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
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Straws for drag spars.

[QUOTE=tailskid2;23898938]And while we are at McDonald's.....their straws are very BIG .........................QUOTE]

I got some the other day for another purpose. I plan to use them to make up drag spars for moulded wings. Slide them onto a temporary mandrel, and then thread biaxial glass sleeving over them. When tacked into position with CA and the mandrel removed, just wet out with epoxy just prior to assembly of the two halves.

However, the very best building tip that I have is one I learned only a few days ago.
When applying PVA after wax on a plug or mould to complete the release system application, dust with talc first. Then dust off excess or blow off with air.
The PVA flows superbly without any of the surface tension fisheye phenomenon that otherwise happens.
Fantastic results.

Jim.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 06:41 PM
looking up down under
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Australia, NSW, Fairlight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson View Post
However, the very best building tip that I have is one I learned only a few days ago.
When applying PVA after wax on a plug or mould to complete the release system application, dust with talc first. Then dust off excess or blow off with air.
The PVA flows superbly without any of the surface tension fisheye phenomenon that otherwise happens.
Fantastic results.

Jim.
i wish i understood any of that

is this for fibreglass, carbon, or some other method of mould ?

i am a complete noob with composites
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 06:57 PM
Entropy is happening!
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Bellingen NSW Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scruffy1 View Post
...........................
is this for fibreglass, carbon, or some other method of mould ?

....................
This applies to any composite moulding process. That is, fibreglass of any variety of resin and reiforcement combination.
Not to plaster or plaster based moulding systems.

I'm not sure just how detailed an answer you are looking for.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:23 PM
looking up down under
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Australia, NSW, Fairlight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson View Post
This applies to any composite moulding process. That is, fibreglass of any variety of resin and reiforcement combination.
Not to plaster or plaster based moulding systems.

I'm not sure just how detailed an answer you are looking for.
that'll do

i am still getting to grips with carbon tissue and finishing epoxy; my release mechanism in wax paper on a glass surface

curves are for future experimentation
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 07:04 AM
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Germany
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I had problems with my Somethin' Extra and had to turn the engine by 90 degrees, but the t-nuts were in the wrong place now. How install new ones inside there? Finally I came up with this idea and it works perfectly:

Stefan
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