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Old Feb 23, 2007, 01:49 PM
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My favorite tip
Clean paint spray can tips after each use with WD-40, cleans and oils in one shot. Some will plug right into the can just spray and put back onto spray can, others use hold tip to tip and spray thru. Always sprays with nice pattern afterwards.
Rich.
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Old Feb 23, 2007, 03:14 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
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I've been using Altiods tin boxes for my small parts. I used a label maker to mark each of them, so I have one for servo screws, push rod connectors, tpins, etc etc.. Stack nice, and won't break like baby food jars.
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 09:23 AM
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Clean bench

I find a clean bench is the start of a lot of trouble. When the managment finds a new rc item in plain view and i forgot to file the proper new equipment forms. Just easier to tuck new stuff in the clutter!!!! :
Louie
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwmtrubrit
I second the microbrews!! I usually go for those after contact with the blades though. Man, a strop? I've not seen one of those since my Dad died in 73. He used the old open (cut throat) razor.

Keith

Some of the times I enjoyed best last summer were when I'd have a couple of brews and work on planes in the basement. Very relaxing.

Maybe it's time to do a home brew -> Slow Stick Stout or perhaps
Fan-Fold Lager?
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 10:06 AM
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don't worry if you make mistakes, even a toaster will fly, as long as the CG is in the right place
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 10:06 AM
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I also second the Perma-Grit advice...pricey and no deals to be had on ebay but worth the price...
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 09:47 PM
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Tips

** You can warm up epoxy by heating the bottles with your Hobbico heat gun, the same one you use for covering the model. (less trips away from shop to heat stuff in kitchen where the wife is waiting.....)

** Always pin your hinges before you fly. I have seen ailerons and elevators self destruct at 50 mph and it aint pretty...

** Use round servo grommets in sheet balsa fuselage to run your antenna out of the body. Nice and tidy looking. Drill one hole, install.

** Balance your plane before you fly. If you are flying a newer ARF, you may want to look for a "build" on the plane here. Sometimes the instructions for the ARFs are a little vague, and its nice to see what others may have learned before you try out the model. (an example: GWS Corsair-instructions and reality of CG conflict)

** You can clean up glued up pins by soaking them in acetone. Caution, its flammable.

** Masking tape, scotch tape, etc. are your FRIENDS. Use them when assembling parts, then peel it off when the glue sets.

** Make a bunch of sanding blocks with various grits of sand paper. You can use double stick tape on cut up 1x4 blocks, stick the sand paper to it, then trim. A good sanding can make a huge difference in a covering job.

** I sometimes use wooden skewers from the grocery store to strengthen repairs. You can drill a hole and stuff the skewer inside, glue it in place. Very strong.

** Keep a clock handy and mind the time so the hangar manager upstairs isnt mad at you for blowing of a whole Sunday afternoon in the shop.
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Old Mar 07, 2007, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebell
Something I read here on RCG:

The more you beef it up,
the more it'll fly like a cow.
LOL
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Old Mar 07, 2007, 05:06 PM
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When you give up on a plane (crash, not happy, want something new, whatever...), take all the goodies out of it and then take the plane outside and smash it kung-fu style

Have fun,
Petru
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Old Mar 07, 2007, 05:08 PM
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Oh, and the best building tip: have other planes ready to fly while building your favorite one. This will give you time to do the build right.
Uh, shorter version: take your time while building.

Have fun,
Petru
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Old Mar 07, 2007, 07:16 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cautrell05
Heres my contributions

1. small magnets. Most of my planes are under 24 inches and use a dowel in the front and a pair of rare earth magnets on the back to hold the wing on. Never had one come loose yet except when it was supposed to(unscheduled landings). They also work great for battery covers on larger models. I got mine at radio shack for a couple bucks a pair.

2. dubro ezlink connectors instead of z-bends. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC2&P=0
I used zbends on my first plane(and hated them) and came across the ezlinks shortly after. wont use anything else. one 90 degree bend in the end of the wire, snap it on and go. I use the .032 size but there are other sizes available. Plus they are cheap.

3. zip ties for everything. use them as originally intended to hold wire bundles or improvise. The ends can be cut off and glued with ca to make control horns(again on smaller models). The last batch I bought were from wal mart. 1.88 for 100 of the skinny 4 inch ones. Ended up using two of them for linkage rods. The skinny end flexes well enough and they dont deflect under the loads im using them at.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110246

4. pushrod guides. Those little red straws that come on cans of automotive cleaners and wd40 are the perfect size for .032 wire to slide through. I have used them several times for touque rod tubes in aileron and elevator setups. If you know anybody that works in a repair shop just ask them to save some for ya. At the shop I worked at I gathered 10 in a week without trying and that lasted me a long time.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110247
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110243

5. motor mounts. On some of my earlier planes I made the motor mounts solid. Nose dives usually resulted in broken mounts and and a couple of bent shafts. What I started doing was making the mount so it would slide back in the fuse in a front hit. It usually starts with a larger piece of 5/16 styrene tubing glued solid to the fuse. A piece of 3/16 styrene slides through it and has a small s crew threaded into theside to keep it from pulling out the front. The s crew slides into a notch in the bigger tube to keep it from turning. The motor is then attached to the front of the 3/16. In a front hit the motor pushes back and the prop mashes against the cowl. Props toast anyway but atleast the motor is still good. pull it back out and put a new prop on it and go.

6. Ive been cut more times with a dull blade than a sharp one. Think about it. A sharp blade usually doesent take that much pressure to cut. What do you do when a blade gets dull? Push harder. Then when it slips it seems to jump out farther and bite.

Thats all I have for now. Theres a lot of good info in this thread.
Nick
Get a sheet of fine abrasive 1000 grit or even better 5000 grit and a piece of glass about 3" X 6". Then just touch up your blade by stroking it at about 15 degrees on both side. Your blade is like new.
Zor
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Old Mar 07, 2007, 08:05 PM
Zor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrotor
Are you sure??
http://www.urbandictionary.com/defin...erm=simplicate

Alternatively you really did mean "simplify" but gained your English degree at the George Bush School of Inventive Speechification.

I really had a good laugh on this tip.
Well said.
Zor
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Old Mar 11, 2007, 03:40 PM
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Perfect building board - Luan Bifold door from Home Depot or Lowes - $20. It's perfectly straight and flat. Put a piece of sheetrock on top for T-pins.
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Old Mar 11, 2007, 05:41 PM
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Cut away from body parts, not towards. Why is this the best building tip I've ever got? Because every time I do not follow this advice, I get a sharp reminder why.
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Old Mar 14, 2007, 09:48 PM
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titebond....especially for wing sheeting...what a brilliant glue!
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