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Old Jan 15, 2007, 07:28 AM
The Clogg Master
Joined Dec 2006
129 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwright142
I don't know if CA is the same as SuperGlue, but if so then you are spot on. SuperGlue was used in Vietnam for wounds.
And many man never returned
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 11:31 AM
X - USAF X - FAA
Santa Ana, CA
Joined Dec 2004
130 Posts
Purple Haze:
The Super Glue that was used in Vietnam was developed by Pacer Industries. It is almost the same CA as we are using today. Pacer's pink bottle thin CA is almost sugical quality CA: very similar to the one that is used in most hospitals today.
Yes indeed there was a great number of service men that owe their lives to that stuff.
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 04:56 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2005
8 Posts
dont walk away .be a man and stick with it thats the chalenge
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Old Jan 17, 2007, 06:24 AM
Registered User
Beijing, China
Joined Nov 2006
1,223 Posts
Using Glues:

Epoxy:Most curing problems come from not mixing well. Proper ratio is important, but not as critical as proper mixing.

Titebond:Thin 20-30% with water. I have spent many years in professional cabinet shops, and NEVER saw anyone use glue straight from the bottle. I bet it is lighter for models, too.
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Old Jan 17, 2007, 01:10 PM
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Cautrell05's Avatar
Winside Nebraska
Joined Jan 2004
381 Posts
Heres my contributions

1. small magnets. Most of my planes are under 24 inches and use a dowel in the front and a pair of rare earth magnets on the back to hold the wing on. Never had one come loose yet except when it was supposed to(unscheduled landings). They also work great for battery covers on larger models. I got mine at radio shack for a couple bucks a pair.

2. dubro ezlink connectors instead of z-bends. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAZC2&P=0
I used zbends on my first plane(and hated them) and came across the ezlinks shortly after. wont use anything else. one 90 degree bend in the end of the wire, snap it on and go. I use the .032 size but there are other sizes available. Plus they are cheap.

3. zip ties for everything. use them as originally intended to hold wire bundles or improvise. The ends can be cut off and glued with ca to make control horns(again on smaller models). The last batch I bought were from wal mart. 1.88 for 100 of the skinny 4 inch ones. Ended up using two of them for linkage rods. The skinny end flexes well enough and they dont deflect under the loads im using them at.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110246

4. pushrod guides. Those little red straws that come on cans of automotive cleaners and wd40 are the perfect size for .032 wire to slide through. I have used them several times for touque rod tubes in aileron and elevator setups. If you know anybody that works in a repair shop just ask them to save some for ya. At the shop I worked at I gathered 10 in a week without trying and that lasted me a long time.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110247
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1110243

5. motor mounts. On some of my earlier planes I made the motor mounts solid. Nose dives usually resulted in broken mounts and and a couple of bent shafts. What I started doing was making the mount so it would slide back in the fuse in a front hit. It usually starts with a larger piece of 5/16 styrene tubing glued solid to the fuse. A piece of 3/16 styrene slides through it and has a small s crew threaded into theside to keep it from pulling out the front. The s crew slides into a notch in the bigger tube to keep it from turning. The motor is then attached to the front of the 3/16. In a front hit the motor pushes back and the prop mashes against the cowl. Props toast anyway but atleast the motor is still good. pull it back out and put a new prop on it and go.

6. Ive been cut more times with a dull blade than a sharp one. Think about it. A sharp blade usually doesent take that much pressure to cut. What do you do when a blade gets dull? Push harder. Then when it slips it seems to jump out farther and bite.

Thats all I have for now. Theres a lot of good info in this thread.
Nick
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Old Jan 17, 2007, 08:09 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,345 Posts
Great tips, I'm a very big fan of the L bends and EZ connectors, myself.
Imagine the "guff" I got when I used them on my "Trinity", a $1,000.00 molded 3 meter slope racing glider!
They work great, and allow me to actually drill a hole FURTHER inboard on the control horn, to use more servo throw on the tiny tail surface throws (3-4mm in each direction), and get best resolution. Very important when racing 5' above a rocky ocean cliff!

Love the spray nozzle tip!

Target
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Old Jan 17, 2007, 08:23 PM
flyit till theres nothin left
ZZ Prop's Avatar
Airfield Electric Shop Memphis International Airport
Joined Sep 2006
225 Posts
I use the dubro links too. fantastic and yes cheap.

I use the wire from a mig welder for pushrods.

The mig wire I get from work is steel @ .03 inch dia. Just go by any welding, autobody shop, fab shop that makes fence or steel doors, any shop that could use a mig. Go in and ask, most of the time if you explain what you need it for they will just go out and squeeze the trigger on the welder and reel off 10 feet. Takes 30 seconds. Or better yet just go look in the dumpster.

I'm hip on the wd 40 or even canned air, carborator cleaner and such for guides.

I think I saw a post earlier on the locating flags for push rods they are about .055 inch dia. and steel just for info.

ZZ P

A D D? ME? Ok now which unfinished plane was I working on before i got on the computer. Where did I lay that battery I was going to charge. oh yea supper darn.
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Old Jan 17, 2007, 08:44 PM
flyit till theres nothin left
ZZ Prop's Avatar
Airfield Electric Shop Memphis International Airport
Joined Sep 2006
225 Posts
I hear people putting epoxy in the microwave to heat it. My chief financial officer don't like the smell in her kitchen.

Get a cool whip bowl or a butter bowl put some hot tap water in it. adjust how hot you think you want it.

Set the bottles in the water and lay down sideways and rotate. Takes just a minute and you can control the heat better. Also they will stay warm longer if you leave the bottles in the water. If you experiment you can get the Pox the consistancy you want it.

Saw a post earlier about putting a bottle of ca in a bottle big enough to hold it and storing in a refridgerator with a moisture absorbent makes it last longer. I agree. I do the same buuuttt I use a zip lock baggie. Works great and they are cheap. I tried to find a storage bottle to put ca in but a ca bottle is a lot bigger than it looks it takes a big top in the storage bottle.

ZZ

I thought I was doin somthing else. what the heck am I doin on this thing.
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Old Jan 18, 2007, 04:18 AM
Designer/Builder
Jim Young's Avatar
Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
1,779 Posts
A cost saver idea about the rare earth magnets. A pair at radio shack costs about $2. Do a search online, and you will find a dozen magnet suppliers ( I think I used K&M?). The last time I ordered 50, 1/16" x 3/32" chrome plated disks for $6 + $4 S&H, so they cost $0.20/each. NOW, you take a few sandwich bags and sell 10 pairs to your buddies (or next swap meet) for a buck each and now your remaining 30 magnets (enought for a lot of hatches) are FREE!

I know, modelers are cheap!

-Jim
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Old Jan 18, 2007, 07:17 AM
Registered User
United States, KS, Andover
Joined Oct 2005
539 Posts
When cleaning up a dusty cluttered workbench, take a kitchen strainer, the fine mesh metal kind, and put it over the hose of your vacuum cleaner. The dust will be sucked through, but all those other small items you want to keep will be left behind. Of course, you could just keep a clean work bench....

Mark
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Old Jan 18, 2007, 11:18 PM
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tailskid2's Avatar
USA, AZ, Phoenix
Joined May 2003
3,130 Posts
"Of course, you could just keep a clean work bench...."

Those are fight'n words Mark......
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Old Jan 19, 2007, 12:04 AM
Be an organ donor
Little Rock, AR. U.S.A via U.K
Joined May 2004
1,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermal Miester
1. Get a reasonably good radio or sound system for shop.

2. Do not run out of tasty Microbrews, especially ESB!

3. A strop and proper abrasive will work magic at keeping blades so sharp you do not dare touch them with too many ESB's cursing through your veins!
I second the microbrews!! I usually go for those after contact with the blades though. Man, a strop? I've not seen one of those since my Dad died in 73. He used the old open (cut throat) razor.

Keith
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Old Jan 20, 2007, 11:52 AM
Registered User
Nashua NH
Joined Jan 2007
307 Posts
[B]Hi, I am brand spaking new to rc planes. I want to build a kit, but in the latest issue of madel airplane news had plans for a p-51d. I am familuar with plans being an ex machinist. The plane plans have no dimensions, Am I suppose to measure plans and then transfer to balsa wood? Thank you
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Old Jan 20, 2007, 12:08 PM
pd1
Registered User
United States, MA, Haverhill
Joined Jun 2006
2,131 Posts
DavidWent, Hi, welcome to RC Groups.

You will have better results in the bigginers forum section.
There are a lot of helpfull threads there.

You are not the first,everyone wants a P-51 as a first airplane, but it really isn't the best to start out on.
There are a lot of easier to build and fly airplanes for a first plane.

And yes you do just measure and transfer to wood.
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Old Feb 05, 2007, 11:30 AM
Don't lie to my dog.
Gregg28's Avatar
United States, DE, Wilmington
Joined Jun 2005
3,062 Posts
From when I was a kid:
Never use solvent based glue when you are naked. It really burns sensitive skin!
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