HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Nov 19, 2011, 06:42 PM
Watt Waster
Tsavah's Avatar
Joined Oct 2010
1,808 Posts
The Old Copy and Paste Reutine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
... There are a few here that have done what you said like on Page 174 Post 2608. These pictures should help. (Can someone tell me how to put that link here)
To post a link to a prior post you first need to open a second window, find the page and entry, and copy the link from the address window. That would be the first address in the above left corner, just in case you already have other pages open for view, but minimized at the moment. So, let's see, you said page 174 of this thread, and post 2608.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...40977&page=174

Ok, that will get you to page 174 and it might even jump down to post 2608, but then again it might take you to the top of the page. You may need to scroll down a bit until you get to the desired post.

If you want to bury the servo until only the top gear is exposed, allow a little movement for the arm, and you will have to cut out a bit of foam. Use a very sharp, new blade and try to cut the hole a tiny bit on the small side for a tight fit. Use needle nose pliers or something along the order to pinch out the foam in the hole. With care and patience, you might be able to keep a bit of foam in the bottom of the hole and with many small pinches, keep it flat to match the servo bottom. If you make the servo arm longer, that will give more throw on the link and control surface. The guys who like to fly the profile foam birds like they are helicopters use longer than usual control arms on the servo because they want a lot of throw on the control serfaces. Instead of 1/2" from full down to full up, they are looking for 3/4" or more. Part of the reason is they tend to fly very, very slow with the butt of the plane down. The larger the control surface the better, but you also want as wide of movement possible to the control surface to maintain model position.
Tsavah is offline Find More Posts by Tsavah
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Nov 19, 2011, 08:02 PM
Registered User
crobar's Avatar
United States, ID, Sandpoint
Joined Apr 2009
674 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
Looks like no one is replying so I'll have a go. What about cutting the holes for the servos a bit deeper and using the standard servo arms.

There would be nothing wrong with using a bit longer servo arms. On my Mini Swifts I have one with the servo arms on the top and one on the bottom. It was no problem on the Mini Swift and the standard arms could be used as the wing is not as thick. But I guess I dug a bit of foam out.

There are a few here that have done what you said like on Page 174 Post 2608. These pictures should help. (Can someone tell me how to put that link here)
Thanks Firepower I found them.
crobar is offline Find More Posts by crobar
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 19, 2011, 11:34 PM
Firepower
Firepower's Avatar
North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
3,055 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsavah View Post
To post a link to a prior post you first need to open a second window, find the page and entry, and copy the link from the address window. That would be the first address in the above left corner, just in case you already have other pages open for view, but minimized at the moment. So, let's see, you said page 174 of this thread, and post 2608.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...40977&page=174

Ok, that will get you to page 174 and it might even jump down to post 2608, but then again it might take you to the top of the page. You may need to scroll down a bit until you get to the desired post.

If you want to bury the servo until only the top gear is exposed, allow a little movement for the arm, and you will have to cut out a bit of foam. Use a very sharp, new blade and try to cut the hole a tiny bit on the small side for a tight fit. Use needle nose pliers or something along the order to pinch out the foam in the hole. With care and patience, you might be able to keep a bit of foam in the bottom of the hole and with many small pinches, keep it flat to match the servo bottom. If you make the servo arm longer, that will give more throw on the link and control surface. The guys who like to fly the profile foam birds like they are helicopters use longer than usual control arms on the servo because they want a lot of throw on the control serfaces. Instead of 1/2" from full down to full up, they are looking for 3/4" or more. Part of the reason is they tend to fly very, very slow with the butt of the plane down. The larger the control surface the better, but you also want as wide of movement possible to the control surface to maintain model position.
Thanks Tsavah but people seem to be able to link exactly to a previous post, unless I am mistaken. I am sure I did it once but do not how I did it.
Firepower is online now Find More Posts by Firepower
Last edited by Firepower; Nov 20, 2011 at 12:10 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 20, 2011, 02:21 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2008
578 Posts
It's very easy to cut out the servo holes so that they go all the way through the wing, mount the servos in the top, then use some spare foam to plug up the holes in the bottom of the wing.

Alternatively if you want a neater finish you can, as Tsavah has suggested, just cut a small hole through the wing for the servo arm to poke through then install the servo upsidedown . If you get it right you wont need extra long servo arms for this. You could dig the servo holes a little deeper if the arms don't reach through.

If you do use extra long servo arms you will get more movement on your elevons as Tsavah says, which isn't good for a flying wing as you probably don't need that much control surface movement. You can dial back the travel on your radio transmitter (unless you've got a really cheap one) but then your servos are actually moving less and so you've reduced your servo resolution. If you imagine a servo can travel through a certain number of degrees or notches, if you reduce the travel to account for longer servo arms then you'll be reducing the resolution (or number of notches or gear teeth) the servo can travel through, so your wing wont fly so well. Although the effect may be small.
teslahed is offline Find More Posts by teslahed
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 20, 2011, 03:44 AM
RJJ
Registered User
Joined Oct 2011
28 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crobar View Post
Has anyone tried using long servo arms and running them upward to the top of the wing and mounting the control horns on the top of the wing for better damage control?
If you have a look on p191 you will see pictures of my swift with the servo mounted so the arm exits on top. I used m2 rod and m2 links.

Auw is 620g with 2200mah and motor/esc setup. Off to maiden now will update thread later. Before I go how much movement of the elevons are people exactly using. I have setup 3 rates on dx8 from full movement to very little.
RJJ is offline Find More Posts by RJJ
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 20, 2011, 06:20 AM
Firepower
Firepower's Avatar
North Brisbane, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
3,055 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crobar View Post
Has anyone tried using long servo arms and running them upward to the top of the wing and mounting the control horns on the top of the wing for better damage control?
Another thing I learnt by first making mistakes. On one of my other wings I just cut a rectangle in the foam on top of the wing. It turns out it is an UGLY BIG rectangle hole.

What I am saying it is amazing how small the slot only needs to be for the control arm in the top of the wing. That is, when you insert the servos from the bottom.
Firepower is online now Find More Posts by Firepower
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 21, 2011, 02:00 AM
Registered User
crobar's Avatar
United States, ID, Sandpoint
Joined Apr 2009
674 Posts
Between deer hunting for a big buck that I've seen and waiting for my Swift II to arrive I'm going crazy. I appreciate the help on the servo mounting. It's nice to learn of some options and techniques before diving in. RJJ - Is m2 a brand or type or size?
crobar is offline Find More Posts by crobar
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 21, 2011, 04:41 AM
RJJ
Registered User
Joined Oct 2011
28 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crobar View Post
RJJ - Is m2 a brand or type or size?
M2 is the size
RJJ is offline Find More Posts by RJJ
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 22, 2011, 12:43 AM
Registered User
crobar's Avatar
United States, ID, Sandpoint
Joined Apr 2009
674 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJJ View Post
M2 is the size
Thanks.
crobar is offline Find More Posts by crobar
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 25, 2011, 11:13 AM
scotland uk
Joined Jan 2005
1,413 Posts
About halfway through my build. I have a 1800mah 3s and a 3s 1300 mah coming tomorrow. Not sure which one to go with. Guess I will have to wait and see the weights.

thanks
wishawhunk is offline Find More Posts by wishawhunk
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 25, 2011, 03:51 PM
Registered User
Brookings, OR.
Joined Dec 2005
236 Posts
?

What is the CG on this wing?
Mike F
Mike F is offline Find More Posts by Mike F
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 25, 2011, 04:04 PM
scotland uk
Joined Jan 2005
1,413 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike F View Post
What is the CG on this wing?
Mike F
Think its 180-185 from the nose.
wishawhunk is offline Find More Posts by wishawhunk
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 26, 2011, 07:38 AM
scotland uk
Joined Jan 2005
1,413 Posts
Finished my swift 2

All the hardware on top.

2200kv outrunner
40amp esc
5x5 prop
orange rx
1800mah lipo (Tried a 1300mah but the 1800mah was better for the CG)
AUW 360g

here is a pic

What I liked-: Quite a straightforward build
The colour scheme
Yet to test fly

didnt like -: I am not a fan of everthing going underneath on a wing
The pockets that are cut out
The push rods supplies with the kit are pointless.

Maiden hopefully soon!
wishawhunk is offline Find More Posts by wishawhunk
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 26, 2011, 01:31 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2008
578 Posts
That looks very nice and your total weight at 360 grams is going to be about right for what you want, i think.

It would probably fly a bit better if you dug out a hole for the battery to sit in recessed rather than having it jutting out on the surface of the wing, just because of the drag. If you cut out a hole in the foam you can reinforce it by using 2 part epoxy and smearing it around the hole in the foam.
teslahed is offline Find More Posts by teslahed
Reply With Quote
Old Nov 26, 2011, 05:09 PM
scotland uk
Joined Jan 2005
1,413 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by teslahed View Post
That looks very nice and your total weight at 360 grams is going to be about right for what you want, i think.

It would probably fly a bit better if you dug out a hole for the battery to sit in recessed rather than having it jutting out on the surface of the wing, just because of the drag. If you cut out a hole in the foam you can reinforce it by using 2 part epoxy and smearing it around the hole in the foam.
Thanks tes. I have a hole cut out which is actually quite deep and a small piece of ply added in there with hot glue. Will post of pic of that tomorroow.
wishawhunk is offline Find More Posts by wishawhunk
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Good setup for a MSComposit Swift II ? myrslakt Foamies (Kits) 4 Oct 10, 2009 02:30 PM
Video Swift II Maiden Sim69 Electric Plane Talk 3 Jan 27, 2007 11:32 PM
Sold Swift II Airbrush line British Scheme TreeFlyer Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 0 Jan 05, 2007 10:58 PM
Discussion Swift II from MS Composit? db1 Flying Wings 14 Dec 11, 2006 07:13 PM
Discussion My Swift II + Question highboy Flying Wings 2 Nov 29, 2006 11:05 AM