Originally Posted by boots1

hey thanks for the replies, i was wondering if the placement of the esc might be my issue because i have it embedded in the bottom, and its covered by a few pieces of strapping tape. i currently have it removed and i'm planning on putting it on top out in the air like suggested.
I do have a meter coming, should be here early next week. so i will make sure things are running right with that. lipos seemed to be fully charged acording to the final readout on my charger(onyx 230/equinox balancer). i will be able to see where each cell is at as well when i get my meter. i do have an extra cc thunderbird 36 that i thought about hooking up. i figure that should be way over kill for this setup, but i was going to see what its currently running at with the meter before doing that.
i'll have to look into the dry solder thing, not entirely sure what that is, so i'll have to do a little more reading. thanks for the halp guys, and sorry for the book.

It is not good burying the Esc in the foam. I have done it on one of my mini swifts but just taped the edges leaving most of the heat sink exposed. Looks good but not good for head and could cause your problem. I can not find the youtube clip any more but there is one where a bloke rolls up to a club with a nice new plane (all on video) and two blokes tell him if you do not replace/relocate the Esc those models catch fire. Bloke says - that's not good but flies it. It was a nice foam model and by the time he landed it quickly the whole top of the plane was burnt off. So the Escs do need a bit of cooling.
I can not remember doing a dry solder joint with the planes but people learning how to solder do it quite a bit. You always tin any wires being soldered first so that the solder on them is nice and shinny (tinned). So if you are soldering on to a plug and you do the same thing. After bother parts are tinned you can solder them together with exactly the correct heat. A dry solder joint usually occurs if the both parts are not heated up enough or not tinned properly. You need a soldering that gets hot enough and solder with good flux. This also makes a difference.

See how you go.

I have 15+ planes and about half of them half their esc's embedded in the foam or located inside the fuse (no cooling). It just depends on what ESC you're running and how many amps the motors pulling.

For example, I'm running a 60 amp ESC on a motor that pulls 35-40 amps... it comes out ice cold even after running full throttle the whole flight.

But, on the other hand, I have my a fast plane that pulls 38 amps on a 40 amp speed controller. That get's really hot so it needs to be somewhere where there is airflow.

It all depends on your setup. -Tyler

I originally glued my motor mount to my swift with CA but it broke free pretty easily. What's everyone using to attach their motor mount?

Seems like some type of fastener through the wing would almost be necessary. When my mount came off it took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it. Seems like gluing it back on again with CA will just allow it to break free again by taking a thin layer of beads off.

I used epoxy and then clamped it onto the foam. Make sure you cut up the surface of the plastic mount some so it has something to grip onto. -Tyler

Originally Posted by JoeR

I originally glued my motor mount to my swift with CA but it broke free pretty easily. What's everyone using to attach their motor mount?

Seems like some type of fastener through the wing would almost be necessary. When my mount came off it took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it. Seems like gluing it back on again with CA will just allow it to break free again by taking a thin layer of beads off.

I just CAed mine and I give mine a hard time and have not had any problems. The hard time even includes the foam breaking adjacent to the mount but the mount is still solid.

I use the THICK CA from hobbyking and I use a lot even a small wedge of it on the outside of the plastic including around the hole of the mount.

The epoxy as mentioned would work. (some will say you do not use epoxy on this type of foam).

See what others think is the best way of gluing it but no need to pin through the wing. (unless your motor is a monster)

Can there be anything wrong with the CA bond if the mount "took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it"?

Originally Posted by GlideAngles

Can there be anything wrong with the CA bond if the mount "took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it"?

Was that the thin CA? If so that would explain it.

I used the THICK CA and drowned it and it will never come off.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_CA_1_oz.html

Also you need to push hard while it is drying which is not long as I use kicker/accelerator.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ator_2_oz.html

You say "took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it". Is that a full layer of beads all over the mount or are they spaced a bit? It is hard without seeing it.

But anyway just do it again as it is all roughed up now but ensure THICK/GAP FILLING CA.

Originally Posted by GlideAngles

Can there be anything wrong with the CA bond if the mount "took a thin layer of foam (beads) with it"?

Come to think about it I had to glue the two halves of the wings together twice as it did not stick the first time.

Just try it again with a bit of pressure.

Our Labor Day Sale has over 100 items with huge discounts including MS Composite Swifts in a few sizes and model.

http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.ph...e_deal_day.htm

Originally Posted by mikekomm

Our Labor Day Sale has over 100 items with huge discounts including MS Composite Swifts in a few sizes and model.

http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.ph...e_deal_day.htm

That'd be your Labor day "Stealth" Sale, Mike? (Your link delivers a blank page.)

Thanks for the heads up...i left the "L" off "html"

Here's the correct link

http://www.commonsenserc.com/page.ph..._deal_day.html

Sorry!

I'm very happy with my Swift II

Swift II Slope soaring (4 min 24 sec)

How did you get the fy20 to work,do you use any jumper.I'm having some issue's with the servos moving individually with my fy21ap connected.

May I join your discussion with a newbie question:
I´ve just ordered a Swift II combo pack which will arrive in a few days. Can you tell me which is the correct direction of rotation of the motor (e.g. seen from behind) and is it a pusher prop I need for this airplane? I´m a little bit confused, because I own a Graupner Elektro Rookie where the motor also "goes backwards" but the prop is not installed like a classic pusher prop. The rookie uses "normal props" which are installed in a way that the front of the normal prop looks to the front of the plane. Difficult, but maybe someone can guess what I mean.
Thanks
Bodo

Hi the prop reg.prop lettering toward the motor.looking at the rear of the wing motor turns clockwiese.Hope tis helps..Crash

Originally Posted by Soulslotter

May I join your discussion with a newbie question:
I´ve just ordered a Swift II combo pack which will arrive in a few days. Can you tell me which is the correct direction of rotation of the motor (e.g. seen from behind) and is it a pusher prop I need for this airplane? I´m a little bit confused, because I own a Graupner Elektro Rookie where the motor also "goes backwards" but the prop is not installed like a classic pusher prop. The rookie uses "normal props" which are installed in a way that the front of the normal prop looks to the front of the plane. Difficult, but maybe someone can guess what I mean.
Thanks
Bodo