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Old Jul 20, 2009, 11:50 AM
Sideslip!
FlyingLakland's Avatar
West Chester, OH
Joined Jul 2008
1,658 Posts
I used goop. Worked great. CA and kicker to tack it in place while it cures.

Jesse
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 05:17 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Dec 2006
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I haven't used Welder or Goop on EPP yet. But if I built another Swift II, I think I would use Welder and CA like Jesse mentioned above. Goop or welder either one will do the trick and it isn't as stiff and breakable as CA. Using CA to hold it in place till it cures is a great idea.

Diggs
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 07:27 PM
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[QUOTE=Diggs]LOL, I keep typing all this out, so I made up a word doc with the gear I use. So forgive future posts that are duplicates, but I seem to do this about weekly And I don't mind at all, I hope others enjoy the floaty swift II as much as I do.

Also, FlyingLakland found my other favorite plane. That EPP Yak 55 is AWESOME! I have 2 of them. One is the standard build and it uses the 1300kv blue wonder just like the 1500 version I use on the swift II, and I use the 9050 GWS props, hxt 9 gram on the ailerons, 5 grams on the tail section, 10-12 amp esc and the rhino 3S 460 pacs. Slammin setup. My fluffy uses much smaller gear and is spendy. You can find it listed in the Yak 55 thread I see was linked earlier. [QUOTE=Diggs]





hi again diggs i know its off sublect but im really interested in your scratch built yak 55 but dont think i have the skills or tools never mind patience to cut my own one out off foam and i came accross this, just wondering is this the same or will it be very similar to your yak 55 its a precut kit version from hobby lobby

Yak-55 Aerobatic 3D Profile Airplane, Red/BlackProduct #: SK058Price: $24.90Qty :Approximate Availability Date: Please CallGood flying 3D profile airplane -- at a GREAT price!

32" wingspan, 29" long, 208 sq. in. wing area, 8 oz. flying weight. 5-1/2 oz. per sq. ft. wing loading. Lightweight pre-printed foam construction, the parts are pre-notched for accurate and strong assembly. Wing stiffened with 3mm carbon rod. Carbon rod material for elevator and rudder pushrods included. Assembly takes only an hour or two using foam friendly CA. Light enough for indoor flying but still has the strength and stability necessary for outdoor flying. Fully 3D capable with the power system that we recommend. Controls are Aileron, Elevator, Rudder, and Throttle.
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 07:32 PM
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ElectricRichie's Avatar
Brisbane Australia, near whites hill park
Joined Sep 2008
165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by patterkid
Im going to put the wing together tonight and i have 2oz of Foam Safe Medium CA. Im wondering what is the best way? soak both sides in CA and stick it together or just one side? how thick? how can i help it stick better? just everything people have learned when assemblying these cores so it'll be as strong as possible.

Thanks guys!

-Justin
Justin, I have found that hot glue is the best way to glue epp and results in a quick bond that will not rip apart. Have a look at the instructions from SuperflyRC for making flap hinges with just hot glue.

regards Richie
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 07:44 PM
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Joined Jul 2008
243 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattk0
Hey, has anyone put a Motrolfly 2210-1400 on the Swift II?
www.subsonicplanes.com has a 2210-2200 that might be a better fit, but I have a spare 2210-1400 around that should work.

I was thinking of trying a 7x4 and/or 8x6 prop to start with. I'll let you all know how it goes, it should be a great motor combo for weight/power.
depends on what size of esc and battery your using


the 2210-1700 will maybe suit better if you want an outdoor swift with a ton off power

they are all the same weight anyway the 2210-1400 is a little low on kv and but has good enough wattage 115-155 is plenty

but the 2210-2200 has 200-250 watts and 2200kv maybe a little much for the swift

the 2210-1700 is somewhere in the middle
FOR PLANES
14 TO 28 OUNCES
WEIGHT
43 GRAMS
Kv
1623
WATTS
130 TO 180
LIPO CELLS
2 TO 3 CELL
8X4 TO 9X4.7 PROP ON 2S
6X4 TO 7X6 PROP ON 3S


i run a tower pro 1700kv 51gram 130 watt motor im my swift with a 3 cell 1000mah 20c battery /18amp esc8x4 prop and its got tons off power probably to much and to heavy for indoor flight. i think maybe putting 250 watts in a swift might tear her up that kind off power. 250 watts is for a funjet or something.

although i would be interested to find out how it handles i would maybe drop one into mines if i thought the swift was up to it. lol
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 08:13 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Dec 2006
8,859 Posts
[QUOTE=harryxtc][QUOTE=Diggs]LOL, I keep typing all this out, so I made up a word doc with the gear I use. So forgive future posts that are duplicates, but I seem to do this about weekly And I don't mind at all, I hope others enjoy the floaty swift II as much as I do.

Also, FlyingLakland found my other favorite plane. That EPP Yak 55 is AWESOME! I have 2 of them. One is the standard build and it uses the 1300kv blue wonder just like the 1500 version I use on the swift II, and I use the 9050 GWS props, hxt 9 gram on the ailerons, 5 grams on the tail section, 10-12 amp esc and the rhino 3S 460 pacs. Slammin setup. My fluffy uses much smaller gear and is spendy. You can find it listed in the Yak 55 thread I see was linked earlier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggs

hi again diggs i know its off sublect but im really interested in your scratch built yak 55 but dont think i have the skills or tools never mind patience to cut my own one out off foam and i came accross this, just wondering is this the same or will it be very similar to your yak 55 its a precut kit version from hobby lobby

Yak-55 Aerobatic 3D Profile Airplane, Red/BlackProduct #: SK058Price: $24.90Qty :Approximate Availability Date: Please CallGood flying 3D profile airplane -- at a GREAT price!

32" wingspan, 29" long, 208 sq. in. wing area, 8 oz. flying weight. 5-1/2 oz. per sq. ft. wing loading. Lightweight pre-printed foam construction, the parts are pre-notched for accurate and strong assembly. Wing stiffened with 3mm carbon rod. Carbon rod material for elevator and rudder pushrods included. Assembly takes only an hour or two using foam friendly CA. Light enough for indoor flying but still has the strength and stability necessary for outdoor flying. Fully 3D capable with the power system that we recommend. Controls are Aileron, Elevator, Rudder, and Throttle.

I think that is depron, which isn't as durable. Check here
http://members.cox.net/midwestfoam/
That is MotorHead, a member here on RCG who sells the precut EPP Yak 55 kits. Bought 2 from him, and Jamie of ATTF also bought from him. very reliable guy.

Also, feel free to ask Yak 55 related questions here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964237
I frequent that as often as this thread and it will prevent us from taking this thread off topic like we are doing now Sorry all!


Diggs
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Old Jul 20, 2009, 08:23 PM
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[QUOTE=Diggs][QUOTE=harryxtc]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggs
LOL, I keep typing all this out, so I made up a word doc with the gear I use. So forgive future posts that are duplicates, but I seem to do this about weekly And I don't mind at all, I hope others enjoy the floaty swift II as much as I do.

Also, FlyingLakland found my other favorite plane. That EPP Yak 55 is AWESOME! I have 2 of them. One is the standard build and it uses the 1300kv blue wonder just like the 1500 version I use on the swift II, and I use the 9050 GWS props, hxt 9 gram on the ailerons, 5 grams on the tail section, 10-12 amp esc and the rhino 3S 460 pacs. Slammin setup. My fluffy uses much smaller gear and is spendy. You can find it listed in the Yak 55 thread I see was linked earlier.


I think that is depron, which isn't as durable. Check here
http://members.cox.net/midwestfoam/
That is MotorHead, a member here on RCG who sells the precut EPP Yak 55 kits. Bought 2 from him, and Jamie of ATTF also bought from him. very reliable guy.

Also, feel free to ask Yak 55 related questions here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964237
I frequent that as often as this thread and it will prevent us from taking this thread off topic like we are doing now Sorry all!


Diggs

he only post s in usa im in uk pity, cheers anyway, wil post in proper forum from now on
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Old Jul 21, 2009, 10:07 AM
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TC, Michigan
Joined Jan 2009
146 Posts
I ended up using Gap Filling Max strength CA on both sides of the cores and holding them together while a friend sprayed kicked around the edges, appears to have worked great, going to use strapping tape as well along the bottome, leading edges, elevons.

Thanks guys,

-Justin
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Old Jul 21, 2009, 07:30 PM
Where'd The Wise Men Go?!?
AC5FF's Avatar
United States, NE, Bellevue
Joined Sep 2007
2,997 Posts
A little off-topic here... but i figured that with all the people flying with HobbyKing's Blue Wonder here someone may be able to help.

Had a bad landing the other day (okay, landing might be a little generous here). Anyhow, the prop caught and ripped the motor apart. The outside bell and shaft got pulled free. Weird thing is that when I put the motor back together (retaining C clamp excaped never to be seen again) it still works. Since it is a pusher it wasn't that big of deal until the next 'bad landing'. This time when it seperated I seem to have lost the bearings (joined up with the retaining ring i guess)...

The motor itself is still in good shape. I've looked through HobbyKing's website for a replacement but haven't been able to find anything. Anyone else ever have to replace the bearings on this motor?? I'd love to get a part# or link if you have!

Thx
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Old Jul 21, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricRichie
Justin, I have found that hot glue is the best way to glue epp and results in a quick bond that will not rip apart. Have a look at the instructions from SuperflyRC for making flap hinges with just hot glue.

regards Richie
Richie, hotglue is fast yes, but it's also extremely heavy, which IMHO strips the "best way to glue epp" medal. I'm not trying to change your ways, but I think Welder is the among the best for EPP because it is even stronger than hotglue, adds minimal weight (much of it's weight evaporates as it cures), and it tacks up very quickly compared to PU (PU is my second fave for EPP).

I've also found a new product called Foam Fusion. It isn't as strong as welder, but much lighter and it works great with FFF too. I like it for stuff like wingtips and seams between sheets. It's not strong enough for a Swift root though.

Kev
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Old Jul 21, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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AC5FF, I think you'd be better off asking this question in the motor design and construction forum; you might get better responses there.

I'm not aware of anyone that sells replacement bearings for the blue wonder per se, but I know McMaster Carr will have the bearing you need. Just pop out the other bearing (both are the same), measure it, and pick one out from McMaster. We order stuff from them every day (overnight) for work for over a decade, and they don't dissapoint their customers.

Kev

[youch! Looks like McMaster wants $7.41 for a 3x3x7mm bearing. They are ABEC-5 though, and I'm sure the Chinese are using ABEC-1.]
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Last edited by Truglodite; Jul 21, 2009 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2009, 10:26 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite
AC5FF, I think you'd be better off asking this question in the motor design and construction forum; you might get better responses there.

I'm not aware of anyone that sells replacement bearings for the blue wonder per se, but I know McMaster Carr will have the bearing you need. Just pop out the other bearing (both are the same), measure it, and pick one out from McMaster. We order stuff from them every day (overnight) for work for over a decade, and they don't dissapoint their customers.

Kev

[youch! Looks like McMaster wants $7.41 for a 3x3x7mm bearing. They are ABEC-5 though, and I'm sure the Chinese are using ABEC-1.]
I buy mine from gobrushless.com. They are not listed on his site, I just order them via email. I believe its $2 a piece. But its been a while.
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Old Jul 22, 2009, 03:36 AM
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Brisbane Australia, near whites hill park
Joined Sep 2008
165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite
Richie, hotglue is fast yes, but it's also extremely heavy, which IMHO strips the "best way to glue epp" medal. I'm not trying to change your ways, but I think Welder is the among the best for EPP because it is even stronger than hotglue, adds minimal weight (much of it's weight evaporates as it cures), and it tacks up very quickly compared to PU (PU is my second fave for EPP).

I've also found a new product called Foam Fusion. It isn't as strong as welder, but much lighter and it works great with FFF too. I like it for stuff like wingtips and seams between sheets. It's not strong enough for a Swift root though.

Kev
Kev, thanks for the input on weight, I have never done one side by side and weighed them, but you would most likely be right about weight issues, as my swift spends alot of the time hitting things I have always wanted a tough joint, maybe for my next one i will try the welder

thanks richie
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Old Jul 22, 2009, 07:36 AM
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TC, Michigan
Joined Jan 2009
146 Posts
whats the Best way to make a battery hatch? I have everything built and ready to go but i can't think of the best way to make a battery hatch so i dont have to tape the battery down, im thinking something like a velcro flap? something with minimul weight but convienent.
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Old Jul 22, 2009, 12:10 PM
Don't fly over your head!!!
LostPlanetAirman's Avatar
United States, AZ, Fountain Hills
Joined Apr 2005
664 Posts
I made my battery hatch from the plastic packaging that my AR6100 rx came in.
I cut a rectangle of the plastic a little bigger than the size of my battery cavity.

It was just a bit light and flimsy so covered it with a couple layers of scotch extreme tape(the tape with the fiber mesh in it). I got it to be stiff enough and still very light.

I hinged it to my swift at the forward end with more scotch extreme tape and I added velcro to the aft end of the flap. I created a shelf at the aft end of the battery cavity on the swift and placed mating velcro there to hold the flap in place.

-I have velcro on my batteries and velcro on the bottom of the battery cavity on the swift, so the flap/cover doesn't hold the battery in. It just covers the battery to smooth out the profile and to protect the battery a bit.

Hope that makes sense.....
LPA
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