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McAlester
Joined Nov 2004
1,370 Posts
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Massey,
I'm afraid I have to agree about the motor. I haven't built the 'Zee', but did one close to it. Used an old drill motor I happened to have. With the stock prop it would almost plane, sort of. Makes for one @#$$ of a wake though! Also used a 6 volt gellcell about center of the hull. Not exactly the 'best' choice, but another of "what I had" things. Install before the deck! (The only way to ever get it out is by sending the boat to the scrapyard, sigh.) Your idea about the rudder keel is a good one. Beats breaking the keel loose and then regluing it. A hatch above the rudder is also very handy! Wish my first one looked as good, keep it up. - 'Doc |
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Thanks for the advise guys. I know alot about this type of motor I use them to race my R/C cars. THe LHSs in my area say this will be fine ungeared but I have my reservations about it. Are there 7 pole motors out there that will fit a 540/550 motor mount?
On a side note I have decided to totaly redesign the rudder linkages. In the pics you can see what Billings uses for a rudder control arm. I didnt like this setup cause it was comming lose alot while I was messing around with the boat. I would not want that to come loose as the bow is facing away from me on a large lake. I will post pics of my progress as I make it. Thanks again |
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Swieqi Malta
Joined Nov 2005
254 Posts
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Quote:
I purchase my 7 pole motors from MODEL MOTORS DIRECT UK (Mr. A.J.Graham Keepers Cottage, Home Farm Iwerne Minster, Dorset DT11 8LB Tel 01747812440 (between 9-10am English time) Twin pack cost 24.00 sterling this includes postage to Europe. (He is only a mail order person , no email no web site) They are excellent quality 6-12v 5000rpm max twin roller bearings skewed wound. See them in the picture. Last but not least that will fit perfectly in a 540 motor mount. Stephen
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UPDATE: (pics tomorrow tho)
I have just built and installed the radio box and also built a battery box. The rudder servo is mounted and so far every thing looks good. I suspended the servo and the radio box from the 2 braces that run from bow to stern so that if the ship does take in any water it will not sit inside the radio box. Also this allows me to place ballast low in the hull when it comes time to ballast for an accurate water line. (it feels like it is going to need at least a pound of lead or some other heavy stuff) As for the motor does any one reading this know where i can aquire a 7 pole motor here in the US or from a place that has a website? Calling out of country is not that great of an idea on a cell (the only type of phone I have). I dont mind purchasing from overseas I just need some way other than by phone. Hopefuly if all goes well with the rudder I will be gluing the decks in place tomorrow. (yes I will put pics up). Thanks again for the inputs and I look forward to more. I will also soon post pics of my 2 Victoria sailboats. Thanks Massey |
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Here is one place for motors http://www.harbormodels.com/Harborma...m18-motors.htm
and another http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/ look under motors. |
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Besides what green-boat posted there is also:
http://www.mackproductsrc.com/index.htm http://www.shipsnthings.com/indexNS.htm Look at this site for Hughey geardrives: http://www.drcwebservices.com/ffe/hardware.htm |
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bellingham, wa
Joined May 2006
4,140 Posts
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Looking good so far.
Looks like the hull is of styrene plastic. I would recomend that you rough up the plastic a bit before you glue anything to it. Would also recomend sealing the beams and underside of the deck and any other structures that comein contact with the styrene with epoxy to help with adheasion proctection in the long run from moisture. I prefer to build up a "dam" behind the shaft tubes and fill the area in with epoxy/filler mix to help reduce shaft vibration and firm up the keel/ hull in that area (seals the the shaft/hull opening as well).I agree with the others on choice of motor-- not the best for this application. LHS have good references for going fast but rarely for scale boats ( not as big of market). They will sell what they "think" will work. Not really their fault as they do not know there IS a difference. Keep up the good work as we are all watching to see how this turns out. |
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Thanks again for the inputs on my boat. I bought a mabuchi(sp sry) 540 fan cooled motor today to give the boat its sea trials in. I am talking sea trials and I have not even put the decks on yet sheesh I need not get ahead of myself here. What I can give you guys is the pics I promised last night so here they are.
![]() Radio box looking forward into the battery tray. ![]() View from Aft looking forward. You can see the servo mounted in this pic. I will put a better shot up once I get the rudder done. ![]() Another angle of the battery and radio box. ![]() Here is a close up of the radio box and you can also see my electronics in this pic. I am planning on putting a few lights in the cabbins and running lights too. I cant remember what side the red and green go on but I am sure I can find out. I am a long ways off from that step but I will need to make a little tray for that battery pack as well. As always comments are appreciated and you guys are really helping me out on this project. Thank you Massey |
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You are on the way!
One thing you may want to do before going to far is to seal the internal wood parts before sealing her up. This will keep moisture out of the frames and the underside of the deck and house.
Another thing you may want to do is to remove some of the material in front of the prop so that the prop may get more water to it. You don't have to remove a lot, maybe just 3mm from each side. Quote:
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Sealing the wood
I was planning on sealing the wood with a sanding sealer that I used to use on my model rockets. Will this be good for the inside of the hull's wood too or should I use like a deck sealer or resin? I live in an apartment and dont have access to a shop so fumes are a big deal here. Also what do you guys that have built a few of these use to keep your deck marks for stancions and what not visable when you paint the model? I am planning on making my decks have Nonskid like look to them and not the wood paneling that the original had. Also is a rattle can type paint going to be good enough for the red and black on the hull? I have an airbrush and compressor but that will take me forever to paint the hull with and make it look good. Again alot of this stuff I am new to still and not sure what the norm is. Thanks in advance
Massey |
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