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Old Jun 17, 2006, 09:34 PM
Still Learning...
doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
Joined Jun 2006
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DL50 Build questions

Hello, after a long wait, my DL50 kit finally arrived. Canada customs decided to take 10 days to arrive at the conclusion that I should pay sales tax on the kit... to be honest, I don't mind that, just the fact that I've been waiting 10 days for nothing.

Anyhow, I just got the kit, opened it up, looked everything over and want to start assembly, but I've got a couple of questions first.

#1 - regarding the throwing peg. Would it make sense to taper the sides so that it is a little more aerodynamic? Or would that make it too weak?

#2 - attaching the kevlar tow to the peg... would it make sense to do a figure 8 pattern, or should I just wind it around equal ammounts top and bottom? Or does that not make a difference?

I think that's it for now, the previous build thread and the manual have given me lots of info so far.

Thanks,

Dave
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Old Jun 17, 2006, 10:02 PM
Mountain Models Wannabe
CoClimber's Avatar
Ithaca, NY USA
Joined Mar 2001
4,371 Posts
Dave,

If you mean taper it to be more of an oval, looking from the top, you should be fine but I don't think you'll notice much performance gain.

I would do the Kevlar as shown. It has been working well so far.

I hope you enjoy the DL-50.

Doug
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Old Jun 17, 2006, 10:21 PM
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Ajax, ON
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Thanks Doug, I just finished shaping the wingtips... about to start mixing the epoxy for the CF spars... my wife says I'm smiling too much...
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Old Jun 17, 2006, 11:46 PM
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doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
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OK, next question, I noticed that the build thread says that glassing first, then glueing the wings together is the best way, as opposed to the manual which says to glue wings together then glass. I can see the first being easier, but potentially weaker (at the middle seam) where as the second would be stronger, but awkward due to one wing in the air while the polycrylic sets....

Any advice out there, is the first option really weaker, or is that my imagination?

Dave
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 01:14 AM
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Denton, TX
Joined Dec 2002
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I built mine as per instructions and it has held up just fine. That wing will turn out very strong no matter which way you choose to build it.
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 08:48 AM
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doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
Joined Jun 2006
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Ok, next question, I read in another forum that someone had the great idea of using food colouring to tone the polycrylic... low weight colour on the model. Does anyone have anything bad to say about this method? Should I avoid this for any reason? I realize that it will be a more transparent colour.

Thanks,

Dave
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 03:52 PM
The Evil Twin
Garden City, GA
Joined Feb 2004
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Dave, back to the wing build. I've built a few, actually dozens, and I prefer to build each half seperate and glue together afterwards. Here's a neat trick, once the polycrylic starts to set up, lay plastic wrap over the glass and place the wing back into the foam bed. You'll need to cut the bed from where the LE of the wing would be towards the front of the foam block so that you can lay the wing on the foam instead of sliding it in from the end. Insure that your work table is flat and add a little weight to the foam block. This helps to keep the airfoil true. You need to have the other wing in the block while the polycylic is drying so as to avoid distortion. I can't say for sure about the coloring as I haven't tried it but I suspect that it would work fine.

Happy Flying

Matthew
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 04:48 PM
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jason H's Avatar
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Joined Dec 2004
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Matthew- Do you still sell wing kits for the DL-50?
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 06:05 PM
Erk
All thumbs, no scents
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Vallejo CA
Joined Nov 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doftya
Ok, next question, I read in another forum that someone had the great idea of using food colouring to tone the polycrylic... low weight colour on the model. Does anyone have anything bad to say about this method? Should I avoid this for any reason? I realize that it will be a more transparent colour.
I've used fabric dyes on foamies with great success.

Inkodye

The really great thing about the UV set dyes besides light weight is that they can be developed just like photographic film.

My Bowman Ruffneck (Commanche... mine is one of the first ones he sold) still looks great after all these years, even with the tape falling off.

Steam set dyes, like the Procyon I used on the Ruffneck, can work too, if you don't mind exposing the foam to 212 degrees.

HTH

Erik
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Old Jun 18, 2006, 11:21 PM
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doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
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Thanks for all the help guys. I've decided to glass the wings seperately, like Mathew said, I wrapped in wax paper and set back into the foam blocks after letting the polycrylic kick. It worked great, although I do have one or two bubbles where I didn't apply enough polycrylic. I just finished wrapping the leading edges, and glassed the fuse as well. Didn't do the greatest job on the fuse, but it'll pass. I'll slice the bubble open and smear some polycrylic inside to seal those up tomorrow.

I'm planning on joining the wings tomorrow, and assembling the tail group. I CA'd the rudder pieces and the elevator pieces. I'll be adding the carbon tape and hinging them tomorrow.

I've been studying the plans, and I have one more question, if you don't mind. When I add the spacer block that goes between the elevator and the boom, I have to sand it to fit the round of the boom. While sanding, should I also sand in a little up elevator at all? For anyone with a DL50, do you always have just a bit of up trim? I'm thinking that if that is consistant, maybe sanding in one degree up up elevator from the start would be a good idea, or will that affect launches too much?
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Old Jun 19, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Joined Jan 2006
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I'll have to dig out the instructions, but you're talking about the decalage. Binder would have said something very
specific if he wanted you to make that stab riser block anything but parallel to the tail boom. With the laser cut
fuselage, he would set the decalage in the wing saddle already.

Anyway, it's a great plane. I flew mine again after a few months off. It's awesome.

Thanks also for posting the updates on the new skin it then join it wing construction method. When I built mine last
spring, it was kindof a new thing. I built mine per instructions and it turned out fine. But, I've always wanted
to hear more reports of folks building the wing the other way. I'll definitely pass on the info to anyone else
embarking on a build.

Daniels had a great suggestion for cutting that stab riser block... sand it to shape around the boom, then use
a balsa stripper to cut it to height using the tail boom as a guide. Doesn't work too well, though if the stab riser
isn't as wide or wider than the boom (like some models). Or, just do it the normal way. I did.
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Old Jun 19, 2006, 10:14 AM
The Evil Twin
Garden City, GA
Joined Feb 2004
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Jason H, I'm not with MM anymore but I'm pretty sure that Brian, the new owner of MM, can take care of you.

Regarding the stab pylon, sand it parallel to the boom. Where you put the CG will determine whether or not you'll need a little up elevator. Parallel to the boom is the neutral pont.

Keep us posted with your progress.

Matthew
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Old Jun 19, 2006, 06:08 PM
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doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
Joined Jun 2006
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Thanks so much for the help. I'll attach the elevator parrallel, as per the plans. I'm sorry if I offended you Matthew, I realize you must be a good designer. I didn't mean to be distrustful of your instructions. I was just wondering.

I have glassed the wing halves separately. I got the idea from some of the comments in the previous and "definitive" build thread that flyinza10 (I think that was his user name, I hope I got it right) started. I learned a lot by reading that thread through a couple of times. I had nothing else better to due since I had to wait the extra 10 days for the kit to arrive.

Thanks again for all the help,

Dave
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Old Jun 19, 2006, 07:23 PM
The Evil Twin
Garden City, GA
Joined Feb 2004
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Dave, no worries man. I like that you ask good questions and that you take Doug and my design seriously. Keep us posted.
Matthew
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Old Jun 20, 2006, 11:30 PM
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doftya's Avatar
Ajax, ON
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OK, I have made a mistake... after working a 14 hr day, I have come home and tried to mount the throwing peg.

I've made a mess. I'm sure it's strong, seems like I used half a tube of 5 min. epoxy on the thing, but it's not pretty to look at. I suppose I'll be doing a good bit of sanding once the epoxy is thoroughly dry. How much sanding can CF tape withstand?

Some people have mentioned that it is a good idea to somehow waterproof the tail feathers. How manditory is this? Can a coat of Polycrylic suffice for this?

As well, some people have talked about glassing the stabs. I have to add a piece of glass anyway which will partly wrap around the boom. If I cut this piece a little larger, can it suffice for both without then adding the weight of two layers of glass?

Anyhow, it's time to finish my brewski and get some sleep. I really hope that I can get this plane finished in time for some test flights this weekend.

Dave
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