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Old Jan 29, 2003, 02:45 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
I can't believe how forgetful I've been on these flames!! Old age, next thing I'll be sitting on the porch whittling a chunk of wood I have sketched out a couple of small flame patterns and have been hauling them around in my briefcase for a week. If I can remember which planet I'm on when I get home tonight, I'll take some pics and post them here. I just sent myself an email as a reminder!

Glad to hear you guys are finding the info useful. I find it helpful to review it quickly before doing a covering job as a refresher! Lots of good stuff here. I'm glad E Zone doesn't delete old threads like they used to!
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 02:59 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
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Woah, Martin that would be way cool! Can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 03:20 PM
Crash and Build
dpoles's Avatar
United States, NY, Ithaca
Joined Oct 2001
2,142 Posts
Just finishing up my SB, and thinking of doing the scollops on the wing Ala Bee Gee, any ideas on how to cut this?

D
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 03:32 PM
Registered User
Ithaca, NY USA
Joined Oct 2000
617 Posts
Thanks to all for the great information on this thread.

I'm getting ready to cover a model and plan to use so-lite on the wings, and light weight polyester tissue on the fuse. This will be my first experience with so-lite. Is it much different than using thin mylar, laminating film, or Reynolds wrap? (materials that I have experience with in addition to regular tissue).
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 05:23 PM
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Joined Dec 2001
64 Posts
rcav8tr,

There's probably variation in temp among trim irons - mine's perfect, does the same as my big iron set with the coverite thermometer. Anyway, you can use it on high if you use an inline light dimmer and turn it down to whatever temp you want. I think you can buy them ready made, I have one I made years ago by mounting a dimmer and an outlet in a plastic electric junction box and wiring them together with a cut-off extension cord coming out of a hole in the box. Works well with soldering irons too.
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 06:01 PM
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rcav8r2's Avatar
United States, PA, Beaver
Joined Sep 2001
3,521 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by doodle
rcav8tr,

There's probably variation in temp among trim irons -
Yep, should have mentioned that. I have 2 of the temp controlled Coverite irons. I use one for higher temp to shrink, and the other for lower temp to tack. Neither one is close to what the dial really says ( using a thermometer on the shoe) and I have to re-adjust from session to session. Burnt a hole right through some Solite as the time before the iron was just right. When I resumed covering, the iron was WAY too hot, and I didn't touch the knob.

Great idea on the light dimmer....How does it work with the electronically controled irons like the COverites? Just curious if the pulsed A/C plays havoc with it. My thinking is that if you lower the input you will have a wider range of adjustment with the knob. Both of mine are VERY sensitive. A slight tweek causes +-50 deg swing. Important with coverings like Ultracote when you just want to activate the adhesive, and not shrink it. Then again I've seen light dimmers let the smoke out of devices that like a steady flow.
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 06:15 PM
T:W>1= :>)
rc-eflyer's Avatar
St. Louis, Missouri, United States
Joined May 2002
1,446 Posts
RE: Raven

Martin,

Make sure you add reversible pitch too!
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 10:31 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
It's a miracle, I remembered!!

Narrow flames...
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Old Jan 29, 2003, 10:33 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
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...and wider flames. These are closer to what I did on the Tiny X. I like the narrow flames better, but they're tougher to cut out and handle.
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Old Jan 30, 2003, 12:44 AM
Balsa to the Wall
Deep in the East Texas Piney Woods
Joined Dec 2001
4,601 Posts
I used to do custom painting on motorcycles in another life, back when flames, freak drops, fish scale etc. were popular. Here are some I did on My SS wing. I made a template and used Elmer's spray on the wing and the template, let it set a few minutes then pressed it down. It stuck like tack paper.



Chuck
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Last edited by Chuck; Jan 30, 2003 at 12:57 AM.
Old Jan 30, 2003, 09:48 AM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
Kevin-

Did you do those flame jobs yourself? I had assumed you nabbed pics off the 'net somewhere, but I just noticed you said something about your airbrush. Those are AWESOME!! You do some great work!!

Chuck-

==back when flames, freak drops, fish scale etc. were popular==

Ah, but flames are STILL popular! They'll never go out of style Nice job on your SS, very cool!
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Old Jan 30, 2003, 01:13 PM
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Joined Dec 2001
64 Posts
rcav8r2,

Without knowing what the iron's control is I don't know whether putting a light dimmer in series would hurt it. But it sounds like it's not too useful the way it is. At worst, if you are using a thermometer anyway you could bypass the iron's control and use the dimmer for finer control - same thing as for the trim iron.
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Old Mar 12, 2003, 06:24 PM
Who Says Penguins Can't Fly?
aeropenguin's Avatar
Bay Area, California
Joined Jan 2003
2,713 Posts
Dreamer, add my thanks to the pile, will you? I am about to pull my first covering job soon and this is great! I found an article on this is Model Airplane news, and it sucked compared to just the first post you did on this page.
I have a few questions:

Would these techniques only work for Solite? What would change if I were to use a thicker covering material such as Monocote or something?

For trim, say I wanted to add a large stripe down the middle of the wing, so I just lay the cut out material on the surface where it goes, tack it down, and heat it up? What if there are wrinkles - if I shrink it, what happens to the covering existing beneath it - or would I have to cut away the covering that goes under the strip?

Thank you sooooo much for this article. They are like step by step instructions, making screwing up hard! I was worried, thinking I would have to cover it, rip it off, and cover it again because the first finish would be bad. Sounds like I'm not going to have to do this now!

-aeropenguin
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Old Mar 19, 2003, 03:22 AM
Leave me alone!
Martin Hunter's Avatar
Kamloops, BC, Canada
Joined Feb 2002
15,106 Posts
Penguin,

I'm glad you like the thread!

The techniques above will, for the most part, work with other coverings. With heavier stuff problems like the static cling or partial transparency disappear, though. However, you gain weight.

For striping... I can only suggest looking back up in the thread as I detailed some striping on a wing and how I do it. I start at one end and work my way to the other then shrink it up in the middle, but that's pretty simplified. Way back there somewhere I detail that with pics.

Martin
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Old Mar 19, 2003, 03:32 AM
Leave me alone!
Martin Hunter's Avatar
Kamloops, BC, Canada
Joined Feb 2002
15,106 Posts
Here's a thought I had earlier on - I was wishing that solite had more colors. That's hardly unique as I've read others say the same thing, but I've found a bit of a work around.

This ties into the other partial complaint about solite I've heard from a few people - it's too transparent.

What I've done in the below pic is to overlay colors. The small bars at the top and right sides of the pic show the original colors. As you can see there are some rather unique and interesting colors that can come out of this. These are all laid down on bare untreated balsa.

You wouldn't want to cover an entire airplane with a mixed color as your weight would double and you'd battle bubbles, but this could certainly work for smaller areas or details.

From the solite spectrum I am missing cream, transparent red, and transparent green. I believe everything else is included.

I will be detailing a covering job upcoming using these new-found colors in a rather complex scheme.

I apologize for the big size but I wanted to be sure it's clear for anyone that wanted to grab this. For what it's worth, this piece scanned in looks identical to how it appears in person.
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