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Old Jun 05, 2006, 06:14 AM
Foam Floats Better
UAVPilot's Avatar
The Big Country of TX.
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Lighting

Before we can really go any farther in the build, it's time to wire up so LED's!.

A couple things in this pic that are handy to have , but not necessary.

The little white box is a handy LED tester, great for checking color and brightness.

The breadboard is nice to have for pre wiring to check out the entire light setup before soldering. You can find simple ones for under $10 dollars.

I use the BEC part from a cheap speed control to provide the same voltage as the receiver. I use the receiver voltage to run my lights. The CC-10 gives enough power with three servos and about 13 LED's. But the A-12 is a much better choice, unless you wire up a separate cheap speed control, and use the BEC part for power.

I made a LED holder out of some blue core foam to make it easier to space the LED's and solder them up.

I like using 30awg wire for lighting. Its hard to find in small rolls though, especially in two different colors. Check radio shack, or order from a CD ROM motor part suppliers.

A amp meter is real handy to have. A watt meter between the battery and speed control will work to. If you don't have ether one you will just have to make sure the resistor values are correct before soldering.
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Old Jun 05, 2006, 06:35 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
Joined Oct 2004
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Here is an example of the LED tester being used. It has a 2mA and 5mA slots. Seven 10mA slots. One 20,30, and 50mA slot.

I well make a LED layout diagram for the fuse and the wing. You can use it to help with the resistor and wire setup.
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Old Jun 05, 2006, 06:46 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
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Here's what my wire job is going to look like. Four of the white light will be shut off when "pursuit mode" is turned on.
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Old Jun 06, 2006, 12:25 AM
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The Big Country of TX.
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Well, this is what I came up with.

I have three circuits.
Two need to be activated when first turned on.
One new circuit opens and another closes during pursuit mode.

The one circuit shuts off, because I found that if the white LED's were left on in the wing when the Flashing ones come on, it washes them out, and the effect is not as great.

I also wanted the ability to turn the system off from the transmitter; part of the Video

I could have done this with a double pole ,triple throw switch and a servo. But that would have made the lights shut of completely during the transition from on, to pursuit mode. Plus The switch I had available was heavier than what I used.

What I have here is a servo hook to a small rotary switch , and a small relay.
Works really well, and the whole thing weights about 11 grams.

I'm sure it could be easily done with solid state circuitry, but I don't have the time or equipment.

I don't normally draw my circuits on computer, so you electronic guys , please give my drawing a break . I normally use a Electrical Graphics template.
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Old Jun 06, 2006, 01:08 AM
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Farmington NM
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Very cool, Earnest!! Have you thought about using servo amp boards? I'm working on a plane that changes color with throttle, and thats what I was thinking I'd use. My plan is to put LEDs in place of the servo motor, put them on ch 5 and 6 and slave them to 3. I'm hoping I can get it to fade from blue to purple to red as I apply throttle.

Also, I've worked out a fiber optic prop that glows real nice with no spinning batteries, and I think it would look pretty sweet on a Glow Stick
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Old Jun 06, 2006, 01:44 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Have you thought about using servo amp boards? I'm working on a plane that changes color with throttle, and thats what I was thinking I'd use.
Hi Mike

Yes, but my current electronic equipment, the way that it needed to work, and my lack of knowledge , doesn't allow for that to be the fastest solution for me.

The Color change ones I have made used LEDs that had A three primary colors built into one LED. They cost the same as other LED's cause I think there mass produced for those big outdoor TV's.
I used small potentiometers to manually control color , but a servo amp would be best for your application.

Oh , and yes , that prop would rule on a GloStik
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Old Jun 06, 2006, 12:59 PM
Pro Bro #495
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Farmington NM
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That color change LED is interesting. I was planning on using this and this placed together, inbedded in the wing. The little bar of blue ones is easy to break apart.
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Old Jun 06, 2006, 01:39 PM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
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Quote:
That color change LED is interesting.
Yeah, It will make any color of the spectrum, including white I built them into a fuselage on one plane with three small pots to adjust color. Was pretty cool

Only problem is that to make white light, all three diodes had to be on. There was three LED's built into the fuse, so when they were in white mode , it was like have 9 LEDS on.
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Old Jun 08, 2006, 11:52 AM
Monkey Do
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Plano, TX
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fwilly
That color change LED is interesting. I was planning on using this and this placed together, inbedded in the wing. The little bar of blue ones is easy to break apart.
What?
THAT and THAT are the same thing?
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Old Jun 08, 2006, 01:19 PM
Pro Bro #495
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Farmington NM
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oops one was supposed to be: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...p?number=G9491
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Old Jun 08, 2006, 10:51 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
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UAVPilot, this is a very nice build thread you have going, very nice work so far. I'm tuned in.
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Old Jun 09, 2006, 01:39 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyeflight89
UAVPilot, this is a very nice build thread you have going, very nice work so far. I'm tuned in.
Thanks tommy
All
Just got back from a little trip, found out I may have to go out of Country for one or a couple few weeks. So, May need to step up the construction on this one. That way, everyone can at least see it to the finish, and then we can all talk lighting setups and shapes when I get back. Not sure if I well have Internet access, and definitely know my work bench won't be there.
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Old Jun 09, 2006, 02:38 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
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I have actually built this light setup in a wing before. But I wasn't using a resistor for each of the white LED's. I normally just run a single low ohm resistor on the whole string. Works fine as long as the forward voltage of all the LED's are the same. Red LED's have the lowest forward voltage ,so you just have to add another resistor in front of it by itself.

I will draw up some diagrams using this Setup also.

But this particular setup was kinda complicated, and I keep testing the system without a resistor. The flashing LEDS are made for 5 volts so, on them ,you don't need a resistor. Well, after I was finished gluing the wing together, I noticed that one of the white LED's was a dim. So I cut a square hole in the wing and replaced it. When I tested it, another had went out.
A series of frustrating events lead to a catastrophic failure of anger control, and total destruction ensued.

So I just started making a habit of putting a resistor on every LED
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Old Jun 09, 2006, 03:57 AM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
Joined Oct 2004
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Most of the LED's I use are frosted to help evenly distribute the light in the wing and fuselage. This can be done with fine grade sand paper, scotch bright, or a bead blaster if you have access to one. Some come frosted already.

But another trick for wing tip lights to do, is just sand the outside of the LED, and not the face, or lens. This well distribute some light out of the sides, and give that occasional bright flash in the air as the plane does maneuvers.
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Old Jun 09, 2006, 07:34 PM
Foam Floats Better
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The Big Country of TX.
Joined Oct 2004
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Wing LED installation.

OK, finished the wing lighting.

This one looks kinda complicated , but don't let that intimidate you. It can be very simple with basic setups. I have a couple of pics with a different, and simple method that is as light as it gets.

Remember to squeeze the foam as thin as you can get it were the LED's mount.

I use 30 awg with two different colors, Its hard to find in small rolls though. 28 is easier to find in two colors, and would be fine for simple systems. Some can be found here. SloFly

Pull out about 4.5 feet of wire and start at both ends, and work your way to the middle. This way, all the excess is in the middle and can be cut to proper length. I usually leave the wires doubled up but in this case I will be cutting the extra wires off latter.

More Pics,
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