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Old Jul 15, 2002, 08:11 AM
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PierreVC's Avatar
Brussels, Belgium
Joined Feb 2002
75 Posts
Logo10 kit arrived, need some setup help.

Hello to all,

I just received my logo10 and I need some help regarding the servo, gyro etc... choice.

At this moment I have:

- logo10 European version (canopy pre-build)
- Mikado motorset: FUN600-15+Beat 40-6-18
- pinion 15T
- Mikado GFK blades 500mm

1. I'm looking for duration, no 3d flying is the 15T ok?Do you need to put a heatsinc on this motor?

2. Servo's, I would go for 3xHS85 for the cyclic and a HS81 for the tail, whats the best choice BB of MG?
Do you have a reference for the hitec longer servo arms?

3.Gyro, GY240 (+HS81)or GY401+digital servo S9293? and whats the best mounting location?

Thanks!

Pierre
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 08:50 AM
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Netherlands
Joined Mar 2002
117 Posts
Hi Pierre

1) Give it a try without heatsink. Your headspeed should be around 1420 rpm. Only when the weather is hot (above 30 Celsius is extreme for Belgium) i think you will see (and feel) a difference. But then your accu pack and the speed controller will also be hot.

2) i use 3 * hs85bb for the cyclic and one std hs81. I believe (but i'm not completely sure) that the reference for the longer servo arms is 56316.

3) I use the gy240 gyro + hs81. For me it's good enough, but i'm still learning to fly. I suppose that the gy401 and digital servo is better when you do a lot of heavy 3d and/or acro moves. Some of us fly with a cheap gws gy03 and this simple gyro also does it's job.


JoggerKe
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 01:07 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
Joined Mar 2002
4,614 Posts
Pierre, congratulations on your new toy!

I opted for the 85mg's, just because they have metal gears and the ball bearings. They were a few $ more each...

I also use the 85mg for the tail mounted in the standard location with the gy-401. I have no issues with it there or that combo. I like being able to adjust the gain at the Tx based on flight modes, which you can't do with the 240, although it will work very well too.

Are you referring to the dubro heavy duty arms? DuBro # 675

Fred also has a nice way of mounting the servo on the tail boom. If you search in this group you should be able to find how he did it...
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Last edited by pwkpete; Jul 15, 2002 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 03:45 PM
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Irvine, CA, USA
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skip the metal gears. The metal gear version has a plastic "fuse gear" that will strip anyway. There are no performance differances other than added weight and acclerated wear on metal gears. They both come with ball bearings.

The HS85 servos will work ok, but JR DS361/368 are the best servos for Logo 10 IMHO.

Stephen
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 04:05 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
Joined Mar 2002
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I wish I knew that when I got mine, could have saved a few bucks. Oh well.. I'm just glad I heard about it, rather than finding out about it first hand
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 05:37 PM
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PierreVC's Avatar
Brussels, Belgium
Joined Feb 2002
75 Posts
Thanks to all

Finally I ordered the HS85BB with the hitec longer servo arms.
I would have prefered the DS361/368 servo's due to the 4 mounting screws but, I've red there was an issue using the DS361/368 with a Futaba PCM receiver.
So as I'm using a Futaba FF8 transmitter I don't want to take the risk to buy these expensive servo's and not be able to use them.

I still need to decide regarding the gyro, I would love the GY401 and his digital servo and be able to control the gain and switch between the normal and heading lock mode from my transmitter.
But there is a big price difference and a lot of people seem to be happy with the GY240 + the HS81(MG).

The theoretical max headspead using the fun600-15 and a 15T pinion is about 1420rpm, but I found some posts where the real headspead is like 25% higher.
So is it better to make your esc run at 75% using a 15T or to use a 14T pinion and running at 85%?
I'm still a beginner and I don't need a 3d setup, just duration.

So know I just have to start building my logo10,

Pierre
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 05:57 PM
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Netherlands
Joined Mar 2002
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Hallo Pierre,

The theoretical headspeed is based on the assumtion that the batterytension is 1.05 V per cell. A freshly charged batterypack will give you a little more (do the test yourself and measure the packs when it is fresly charged)

If you regard the discharge graph where the voltage of a cell is plotted against the discharge then you'll see that the tension of a nicad cell will drop in function of the discharge and the discharge
current.

I think that the 1.05 V is a value that gives an idea because most of us presume that the voltage per cell will drop to about 1.05 V per cell under heavy load.

I myself i'm also curious why this value of 1.05 V is used in most of the calculations.


Groetjes

JoggerKe
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 06:41 PM
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I run JR DS361 with my Futaba PCM1024 RX without any problems. What type of problems have you heard?

Futaba 401 with 9253 is THE gyro system to have on Logo 10. You can get by with a HS81 for now, but you will see a big performance jump when you go to a 9253. Price has came down a lot, around $220 from authorized dealer like heliproz.com, or less if you buy gray markey from helihut.com.

Good luck,

Stephen
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Old Jul 15, 2002, 07:52 PM
Our Daddy and Heli Junkie
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For duration the 500mm mikado blades may not be the best. Use the stock woodies or 530-550mm semi blades.

The 600-15 on 12 cells will yield around a 1350 HS when run at 85%. It is plenty stable at that HS.

For that flying to the 85s are just right. Having only 2 lugs affects nothing as the force is along the body of the servo, not sideways.

I have mine setup with all JR 368's which fit everything just right. Add the Du Bro #675 arms and you are set!!
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Old Jul 16, 2002, 12:48 AM
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United States, FL, Cocoa
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Pierre I fly your same setup but with a 14t-pinion and stock wood blades at 89% governor.

I have enough headspeed to do lots of Loops, a tiny bit of inverted (too scary), and very aggressive flying.

At the end of the flight, the motor is very warm, ESC is warm, and the batteries are hot. I usually fly at around 82oF.

Good luck!

Chachin..
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Old Jul 16, 2002, 06:41 AM
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PierreVC's Avatar
Brussels, Belgium
Joined Feb 2002
75 Posts
Hello,

the tread refering the fut-ds361 problems:

"Futaba PCM receiver servo pulse other than PPM?"

This was posted by Risto. US versions dont have this problem, only the European PCM versions (PPM is ok).

As in Europe JR products are distributed as Graupner/JR maybe there could be a difference I've no idea.
I will try do find out more info regarding this problem, I prefer the ds361 also.

I will buy an extra 14T pinion as Fred and Chachin use in there setup and use the Mikado 500mm blades (I have them know).
This is a new kit (blue universal box) European version, and no wooden blades included.

Thanks to all,

Pierre
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Old Jul 16, 2002, 06:05 PM
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New York
Joined Jul 2001
970 Posts
Logo10-Servo-Rubbergrommet

Hello to All:

Question regarding servo install on my Logo10 (New)

Is it ok to use the Rubber isolation gromets included with the servo.

I'm new to the Heli setup.

What the pro's and con's with the rubber grommet in the servo.

The reason I ask is I think with the rubber grommet it will allow a slight amount of movement in the body of the servo. And I "Think"
thats not good for a Heli setup.


Thanks
James Lv2Fly
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Old Jul 16, 2002, 10:42 PM
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I dont see anything wrong with using the rubber gourmets. In fact, I had to use them on my DS361 or else the servo will hit the main shaft in a 120 CCPM setup.

Stephen
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Old Jul 17, 2002, 01:28 AM
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United States, FL, Cocoa
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James,

I'm also using the rubber grommets in my Logo 10 and it does not affect performance at all!! It flies so good... Control inputs are very smooth.

Yes, I also notice a slight movement of the servo (due to the grommets) but it is very minimal.

The grommets will help absorb the vibrations that would otherwise affect your servos directly.

Good luck!

Chachin..
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Old Jul 17, 2002, 04:42 AM
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Joined Aug 1999
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I use the grommets too, but I don't use the included eyelet.

I use a piece of alum tubing a little shorter than the grommet. It has less slop and allows the grommet to bite alittle vs riding on the eyelet edge.
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