Wow! I really like that colour scheme Rich Is that one of mine up front?

K.

Originally Posted by LedKitty

Wow! I really like that colour scheme Rich Is that one of mine up front?

K.

Sure is, and a right smart cowl it is. Amazing how well it fit. No Adjustment needed.
Thanks Kitty
Rich

Originally Posted by TeamTEOR

Aero, that was a RIP, or was that Buzz's Rip!

Judge for yourself. If you'll notice, when I stepped over the rose bush, my voice changed an octave or two.

Originally Posted by aeronca

Buzz,

No wonder you've got the only 25' TM in the universe. If I were a TM flying from your aerodrome I wouldn't go any higher either. That TM of yours has some smarts!

As far as the roses, you've given a whole new meaning to "bush pilot"!

LOL! No, the AA and my heli are the only machines I've found (yet) that I can fly here. I drive to a "secret flying field" with tons of room and paved runways to fly everything else.

Aeronca

Originally Posted by TeamTEOR

Just becarefull Buzz to not be buzzin around them thorny rose bushes buddy. Even my wife cringed, I am not sure if it was in reaction to your wife's comentary.

I'm sure your wife was cringing for the rose bush. There's no way she could know.

Originally Posted by flycracker

Hey Buzz, It is no longer "white". The Tiger was flying so high the video I took only shows a small spec in the sky. CDR motor--so sweet
Haven't had a Tiger to fly for a long time, biggest problem is keeping it down to a reasonable altitude. You best finish you "white Moth" so you can get up there in the thin air. Oh yeah, no rose bushes up there either.
Rich

Rich,

That's lookin real good! All I need is a brushless ESC and I'll have everything I need for the white moth. My site has been keeping me pretty busy, but .... I do need to build it soon. I guess you never found the yellow moth? That's really too bad. That was a sweet little plane.

Flycracker:

Nice looking moth. Something about a white moth with appropriate trim. My planned TM #3 will be built from a white kit. I have a picture of Keith's moth on the wall for inspiration, and a picture of Kitty's Little Fishy on the wall as a motivator.

RD

Hey TM flyers, my TM has egg shaped exit holes for the control rods from all the flights on it. It's causing the rudder to keep from centering consistantly. Whereas they were just a punched hole when new, they've now become elongated and much bigger. Any suggestions for a light weight fix for this? I'd hate to add any weight to the tail end, she flies so nice now.

thanks
Paul

Originally Posted by praymond

Hey TM flyers, my TM has egg shaped exit holes for the control rods from all the flights on it. It's causing the rudder to keep from centering consistantly. Whereas they were just a punched hole when new, they've now become elongated and much bigger. Any suggestions for a light weight fix for this? I'd hate to add any weight to the tail end, she flies so nice now.

thanks
Paul

Cut a piece of 1/32" ply and CA over the elongation. You can paint to match if it bothers you.
boomer

You can also try slipping a small piece of a cocktail straw over the control rod and then using some light weight filler to close up the space. It should bearly add any weight to the rear if done right.

Perhaps I am looking at this from the wrong direction, but I would think elongegated openings for the control rods would not be the cause of self-centering problems for a given operating surface. There would be less resistance to the movement of the control rod in an enlargened hole versus a new or tight opening. Is there a problem with the servo or the servo linkage?
It would be possible that the small diameter control rod is deflecting under load as it would not be supported properly due to the enlargened opening in the fuselage. This, I would think, would lead to less movement of the operating surface, or inconsistent deflection of the rudder/elevator. In that case, I think TeamTEOR has presented a very good workable solution.

I had a severe self-centering problem with the ailerons on my Speedy 400, due to the friction of the bowden wire setup and the deflection of the control rod(s) under load. Solved the problem with separate servos for each aileron.

Just my perspective.

RD

Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell

Perhaps I am looking at this from the wrong direction, but I would think elongegated openings for the control rods would not be the cause of self-centering problems for a given operating surface. There would be less resistance to the movement of the control rod in an enlargened hole versus a new or tight opening. Is there a problem with the servo or the servo linkage?
It would be possible that the small diameter control rod is deflecting under load as it would not be supported properly due to the enlargened opening in the fuselage. This, I would think, would lead to less movement of the operating surface, or inconsistent deflection of the rudder/elevator. In that case, I think TeamTEOR has presented a very good workable solution.

I had a severe self-centering problem with the ailerons on my Speedy 400, due to the friction of the bowden wire setup and the deflection of the control rod(s) under load. Solved the problem with separate servos for each aileron.

Just my perspective.

RD

Before you go to a lot of trouble fiddling with the elongated holes, take the control rod for your rudder off the servo. Then, move the stick on your Tx left and right and see if the servo arm centers when you let it go neutral.
It could be the servo.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take the wings off and check it out. If the servo seems ok, I'll ca a thin stirring straw in the body. It isn't too bad, the plane just needs a jig of rudder trim to set her off straight after some wild rudder action.

Hey Buzz, Good Call!!

I pulled the wings and checked the rudder servo-- it's not consistant in it's centering. It's off by bout 1/16 returning to center, and hunts sometimes to find center. It's a hitec HS50, I have aa TP rs 50 that'll fit in the same space (two balsa rails going across the fuse). Probably the holes won't bother anything when I replace the servo.

I used to be able to hold my radio in my left hand and swat bugs, the the TM would just put along on a die straight coarse. Now I'll be able to do that again!!!

Thanks again

Paul

Going WAY off topic! Just got back from driving my son's new $125,000 show truck and he is already redoing the flames to "ghost" flames and putting on chrome wheels for the 40" tires! Even the door handles are flames.Truck started off as a Chev Avalance that morphs into a pick-up. 3000W stereo system! It is kind of like flying a airplane and feel like you should have oxygen from the driving height!
boomer

Originally Posted by praymond

Hey Buzz, Good Call!!

I pulled the wings and checked the rudder servo-- it's not consistant in it's centering. It's off by bout 1/16 returning to center, and hunts sometimes to find center. It's a hitec HS50, I have aa TP rs 50 that'll fit in the same space (two balsa rails going across the fuse). Probably the holes won't bother anything when I replace the servo.

I used to be able to hold my radio in my left hand and swat bugs, the the TM would just put along on a die straight coarse. Now I'll be able to do that again!!!

Thanks again

Paul

No problem, Paul. I'm glad you were able to isolate the problem. Hopefully it's only the servo. I don't think oval shaped holes in the fuse would make the rudder bind. You're probably OK there. Let us know how it works out.

Buzz

Originally Posted by boomerace

Going WAY off topic! Just got back from driving my son's new $125,000 show truck and he is already redoing the flames to "ghost" flames and putting on chrome wheels for the 40" tires! Even the door handles are flames.Truck started off as a Chev Avalance that morphs into a pick-up. 3000W stereo system! It is kind of like flying a airplane and feel like you should have oxygen from the driving height!
boomer

Put wings on that there thang!!! For that much $ it should fly.