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Old Aug 26, 2006, 07:21 AM
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Jacksonville, FL
Joined Jun 2006
315 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basketcase
Hi Doug, you got it, the epoxy at the firewall holds it in position, and is easy to get to/remove if/when you need to replace the stick.

FWIW, I now prefer to use Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) instead of epoxy for the stick, it's easier to cut through too.

Wayne
Wish I'd read that (or thought of it myself) BEFORE finishing up the night moth. Oh well - I'll just have to try not to nose it in.

Doug
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 08:57 AM
Forever WTTM Pilot #7
Buzz's Avatar
Daytona Beach, Florida, United States
Joined Aug 2002
11,549 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell
Oooh, nice idea, never thought of that, and I has some weird ideas already cooking up for TM #2. Thanks for the review, and thanks to BC for the original suggestion.

RD
Well, I guess if it is weird, we should expect that from you by now.
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 10:31 AM
Captain Carnage says......
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Seminole (St Pete.), Florida/ Seminole Crash Fest
Joined Jun 2002
5,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz
Well, I guess if it is weird, we should expect that from you by now.
Dunno...I personally think that there is nothing more weird than a Moth with acrophobia

Chuck
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 10:33 AM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
7,479 Posts
I just remembered, I have some mounts that Jeff sent me on my last order! Now I am going to have to try out the CDRom setup again for sure! That Feigao served me well, but the noise was starting to get to me.

These pictures are taken right from Jeff website and will be how I mount the CDRom motor. http://www.westport-design.com/ipsr_...t_tutorial.htm
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Last edited by TeamTEOR; Aug 26, 2006 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 09:40 PM
Registered User
Connecticut
Joined Aug 2004
442 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell
Yikes! This set up on a Pico TM????

RD
It also has plywood struts (two layers laminated) and flying wires for more strength.

The initial idea was to build a moth to do crazy things , but as it turns out, I find myself enjoying flying it 'scale'. Even though it has the ability to become airborne almost immediately, it's much more fun to rog on pavement at about 1/3 throttle and watch it take off like the real thing.

I was able to do this with the stock Moth, but with the added weight this one is extremely stable on liftoff.

The only change I'm going to make is to mix in some down elevator with throttle. At full throttle it's irritating to hold down elevator on long low passes. (It looks and sounds like it's crop dusting when I do this. )
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,725 Posts
There are no indentations under the upper wing for the inner struts. So I am unsure where exactly they go in the left/right or fore/aft directions. ArcherAce's build directions states that the struts should be glued slightly outside of the two wing folds (so I assume they should be glued to the outter side of the folds so there is more surface area for the glue?).

If I laminate the inner struts, I'm tempted to make the plywood curved at the top, to match the wing's shape (so I can glue the plywood to the underside of the wing - same as the outter struts).

I laminated the outter struts with ~1/8" balsa sheeting, and they came out decent. 1/32" and 1/16" ply is all I have left.

Thanks...
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 10:53 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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Ok, It is done. I used my original set of wings since they were in great shape. Also, I used very little epoxy & CA as promised (mainly GWS glue), and it was built using a CDRom motor as in the previous post of mine. The only difference is that I used hot glue to hold the mount onto the stick incase it needs to be removed later. I found a Phoenix 10 and a couple of GWS Pico servos that were sitting around. The 17t motor was tested with a 2s700 pack, and a APC 9x4.7 prop. In a little while when I have a chance and the lipo is done peaking I will run it up on the watt meter to make sure I am not over doing the lipo or motor with that prop. I don't remember what I used in the past. It has pleanty of power to get up and go so I am pretty happy about that. Balancing, it seems fine with the lipo right under the landing gear, just a pinch nose.

The only one thing I am a little concerned about is the the tail wheel. I do not feel it is going to move enough to be worth the time I put into it so far. I still want to make it move a little more than it is. Testing it out on my marble flooring I didn't get much of a turn. I might remove the wire and just let it free wheel. The main landing gear was modded with some clear duct tape to keep it from splitting the fuse open.

The wheels will be replaced soon, I want to get a set of nicer ones for it, I just need to find them. Any suggestions?
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 11:13 PM
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Syracuse, NY (USA)
Joined Dec 2004
2,725 Posts
I love these wheels:
http://www.allerc.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=2348

www.nesail.com sells them in different colors:
http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=2559

I also bought 3" and 2" Dubro Super Lite, but they do not look nearly as good, and the hub is much wider. I did not try the 2" on my moth yet, but the 3" wheels I bought for my slow stick were too wide, so I had to bend the wire, which was a little tough to get straight. I think even the 2" Dubro's were too wide for the slow stick (hard to remember).
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Old Aug 26, 2006, 11:20 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
7,479 Posts
I bet they will need a little something on the axel to take up some of the wide hole on those Hyperion wheels. I love those wheels as well, and use them on most of my planes. I should see if the hub will fit the stock axel width.
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 09:57 AM
Forever WTTM Pilot #7
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Daytona Beach, Florida, United States
Joined Aug 2002
11,549 Posts
If you want a really good tailwheel that will last forever, get a meat tray...cut out a tailwheel and cover it with epoxy. I fixed my axle assembly directly to the rudder. After 6 years or so of landings.... it still looks new, and it taxi's like you're driving a car. It will turn around in it's own length. And don't worry about putting extra strain on the rudder with this setup. I've made a lot of strange landings, and nothing has broken yet!
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 06:32 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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It was a pinch windy for the Moth, but I did put it in the sky. It went right up and circled around to the left quite bit. The damage was the motor stick broke loose. Lucky that it did go in kinda soft. Next time I'll bring the CG a little more forward and try again just to see. Maybe I'll add a little more right thrust if it does it again after the second try. Another thing that I need to do is order up a 3mm prop saver so I can use a 8040HD or 9050HD prop. I think this 9x4.7 APC SF is tooo much for this baby.
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 09:26 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
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Actually it seems that the only two cdrom motors that I have are having issues. They are falling out of sync or they feel like they are catching at low thottle settings. Maybe I need to order up a new set of cans for them, at higher throttle they are fine. The moth only needs 1/2 to take off though. So I am going to have to put my geared unit back on for now or find a another outrunner or find an outrunner mount for the IPS motor stick. Any ideas anyone? I don't want to build up the nose with more foam and then use a plywood sheet to bolt the motor to. I'd like to keep using the stock setup to get the correct height for the prop.

I have a HiModel A2406 Outrunner Brushless Motor sitting around, but I thought it might be a little to heavy for the Moth. Anyway here are its specs.
* Type: A2406-32T
* KV:1150
* Io:0.8A (10V)
* Working Currency:4A-8A
* MAXE: >70%
* Shaft: 3mm
* Weight:33g / 1.2oz
* Size: D28 x L17.5mm
* Mounting hole spaces: 16mm and 19mm ( center to center ) with M3 screws (
Mount and screws are not included )

Comments:

Recommanded Applications:
a. 2 cell Lipo: APC 10X47SF 4300RPM 7.2V 6.8A Thrust 310 gram/11 oz.
With 10A ESC and 700-900mah Lipoly battery, suit for indoors flight or mini 3D
airplanes.
b. 3 cell lipo: APC 8X3.8SF 7400RPM 10V 6.4A Thrust 363 gram/13 oz.
With 10A ESC, 700-900mah Lipoly battery, suit for mini 3D airplanes or mini sports
airplanes.
c. 3 cell Lipo: APC8X6E 6600RPM 10V 7.8A thrust 340 gram/12 oz.
With 10A ESC, 1000mah-1100mah Lipoly battery, suite for speedy mini sports
airplanes or mini scale airplanes.
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 09:37 PM
Been There! Done That!
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Eugene, Oregon, United States
Joined Sep 2001
19,187 Posts
Try a smaller prop! Most of my Lens Motors act that way if I overprop. The recommended props are the GWS HD/DD NOT the SF GWS Props.
boomer
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 10:22 PM
rab
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Arlington, Virginia
Joined Aug 2004
702 Posts
I'll second the over-prop.

I fly a 17 turn GB motor with an 8x4 HD prop. (when I tried an SF prop the motor over heated in the test) I use a 700 mah 2s lipo.

Allen
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Old Aug 27, 2006, 11:18 PM
Off 2 The Edge of Reality
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Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Sep 2003
7,479 Posts
Ok great, I'll do that tomorrow if I can find a 3mm prop saver. I really want to use the cdrom motor again. I did put on a different bell that had a small 4 inch prop on it and it spun up fine so I ruled out it being that side of things. I thought that maybe I had a bad shaft or I was using the wrong oil to lube stuff on the first motor. I did confirm that I was using bushing oil on the brass bushing that motor was using. However when I found the same reaction on the motor with the new ball bearings in it I thought something was up for sure. Thanks a lot guys.
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